14 ft o'day sailboat

O'Day Javelin 14

The Javelin, also called the Javelin 14 and O'Day Javelin is an American sailing dinghy that was designed by Uffa Fox as a one-design racer and first built in 1960. The design was built by O'Day Corp. in the United States. The company produced 5100 examples of the design, but it is now out of production.

The Javelin is a recreational sailboat, built predominantly of fiberglass, with wood trim. It has a fractional sloop rig with anodized aluminum spars, a nearly plumb stem, a vertical transom, a transom-hung, kick-up rudder controlled by a tiller and a retractable centerboard. The hull alone displaces 475 lb (215 kg) and carries 49 lb (22 kg) of galvanized steel ballast. A fixed keel model was produced in small numbers and carries 195 lb (88 kg) of iron ballast.

The boat has a draft of 3.83 ft (1.17 m) with the centerboard extended and 6 in (15 cm) with it retracted, allowing beaching or ground transportation on a trailer. The fixed keel model has a draft of 2.00 ft (0.61 m).

The boat may be fitted with a small outboard motor up to 8 hp (6 kW) for docking and maneuvering. The design is equipped with a lockable storage compartment in the bow and gear lockers under the seats.

Source: Wikipedia . Image Credit: Bangor Punta Archives

LOA: 14.00 ft LWL: 13.17 ft Beam: 5.67 ft Draft: 3.83 ft Displacement: 475.00 lbs Ballast: 49.00 lbs Hull type: Centerboard Dinghy Hull construction: FG Rigging type: Fractional Sloop

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Sailboat Guide

O'Day 14

O'Day 14 is a 13 ′ 8 ″ / 4.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Ron Holder and built by O'Day Corp. starting in 1985.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
LOA: Length overall in feet
Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

A boat of this design was available under a number of different names including the VAGABOND 14, HOLDER 14, and MONARCH 14. Sold but not actually produced by O’Day.

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Boat Profile

O’Day Day Sailer

A proven performer for 61 years

From Issue Small Boats Annual 2020 July 2019

T he production of small boats was booming in the 1950s on both sides of the Atlantic, and really took off in the late ’50s with the introduction of fiberglass. Famed designers Uffa Fox and George O’Day teamed up in 1956 to create the O’Day Day Sailer. Fox is credited with introducing the technique of planing to dinghy racing and designed many significant classes of boats, including the International 14. The story goes that Fox wanted a pure racing dinghy but O’Day wanted the small cuddy added to increase appeal to the recreational market in the U.S., so Fox designed the planing hull and O’Day designed the cuddy. The resulting Day Sailer was a 16’9” centerboarder with a displacement of 575 lbs, which makes for a light load to tow behind the family car. The fractional sloop rig includes a generously sized spinnaker for exciting downwind sailing.

The first Day Sailer was sold in 1958 and immediately became popular in the recreational and racing markets. It was later designated as the Day Sailer I as four different models have since been built, with over 10,000 boats hitting the waterways. Day Sailer (DS) models I through III have been built by eight different manufacturers, with the current Day Sailer being a modified DS I with a few DS II attributes, such as the internal foam flotation and cuddy thwart. The original DS models I, II, and III were built from 1957 to 1990 by the O’Day Company in Fall River, Massachusetts. The DS I and modified versions of it were later built by Can-AM Sailcraft, Rebel, Spindrift, Precision, McLaughlin, Sunfish/Laser Inc. The current builder of the DS I+ is the Cape Cod Shipbuilding Company (CCSC) in Wareham, Massachusetts, holder of the exclusive license since 1994. The Day Sailer Class Association owns the molds that are currently used by CCSC.

The long side benches in the cockpit provide uncrowded seating for six. The sole is above the waterline and is self-bailing.

The early DS I can be identified by wooden thwarts, seats, and cockpit sole, a centerboard lever, open cuddy, and a transom deck. The DS II came out in 1971 with built-in foam flotation. The cuddy opening is smaller than the opening on the DS I because it also acts as a thwart, and a thinner transom allows mounting a small outboard motor without the need for a bracket. The Day Sailer I and II are considered class legal for one design racing, but the DS III is not considered race-legal due to higher freeboard on the transom, which was a departure from Fox’s hull design. O’Day built the III from 1985 to 1990, so to race in One Design regattas it is important to buy a DS I or DS II. The current Day Sailer in production is a modified version of the DS I with improved self-rescuing capabilities, two sealed air tanks, and a cuddy flotation tank with a smaller hatch.

The Day Sailer, no matter which model, is a very versatile boat, easy to rig, sail, transport, and store. With the mast down the boat and trailer take up just a few feet more than an average family car, so can be stored in most garages, though the mast may need to be stowed diagonally. At the ramp, the Day Sailer can be rigged in under 30 minutes: step the mast, add the boom, bend on the jib and main, clip the pop-up rudder onto the transom, and sort out the sheets.

Stepping the mast is the biggest challenge. The 23′4″-long racing mast is stepped through the top of the cabin onto the maststep fixed to the floor of the cuddy, and that can be tricky for one person. The mast does not weigh much, but it is helpful to have a helper at the foot of the mast to guide it into the cuddy opening. The good news with this arrangement is that once the mast is stepped, it is secure, and there’s no rush to attach the forestay.

A mast hinge, a popular option, makes raising the mast much easier.

About 75 percent of the new boats are delivered with a hinged mast, eliminating the awkward gymnastics of stabbing the mast through the cuddy. Once the mast is raised and the forward hole on the hinge pinned, securing the forestay to the bow fitting takes the strain off the hinge. Side stays can then be tightened to take out the slack, but no more than hand tight. Stays that are too tight can damage the hull. Tighten the nuts on the turnbuckles and tape over any cotter pins.

There are different sheeting arrangements for the boom. Some boats have sheets attached in the middle of the boom; the sheet on a DS II starts from a traveler on the transom and ends forward on a swivel cam cleat mounted to the centerboard case. The DS II boom also has a spring in the gooseneck that allowed for roller furling— disconnect the sheet, pull the boom aft, and roll the sail onto the boom. A reefing claw has to be added to connect the sheet to the sail-wrapped boom, but this design is not optimum, nor is the wad of rolled-up sail by the boom’s gooseneck. A better arrangement is to add a conventional set of reefpoints to the mainsail. The boom also has a vang to improve sail control.

The 6′ 3″ beam gives the Day Sailer good stability, enough to keep the boat under someone standing on the foredeck.

The jib on the racing version of the DS is a standard affair, attached with hanks onto the forestay and raised with a halyard. Some skippers add a downhaul to lower the jib from the cockpit. Both the main and jib halyards are led aft on the top of the cuddy. The recreational version of the new DS I comes with a roller-furling jib, which we consider essential for sailing dinghies, especially if singlehanding. We have added a roller-furling jib to our DS II along with the mast hinge. We also added the hardware and rigging for a spinnaker, halyard, spinnaker pole, spinnaker pole control lines, sheet blocks, and jam cleats.

T he Day Sailer is a treat to sail; it handles well, tacks with ease, and powers up quickly with its large sail area. The planing hull is responsive to the tiller, and the wide beam makes it stable. The boat will roll quickly but then sets on a tack, holding it with stable and positive helm control. The centerboard can be easily adjusted from amidships.

We sail a Drascombe Lugger and a Sunfish; the Lugger drives like the family sedan and the Sunfish like our Mustang. The Day Sailer handling is closer to that of the Sunfish—when the breeze picks up, the mainsheet needs to be held in the hand and someone should be ready on the jibsheets. The jibsheets run through the coaming on the DS I and through small cars on the DS II. For the highest performance, skippers have added tiller extensions and hiking straps. There is an outhaul on the battened main; racing versions have barber-haulers and travelers added. Pop the spinnaker, and it will scoot along quite nicely in a light breeze.

The Day Sailer carries 100 sq ft in the main, 45 sq ft in the jib and, for sailing off the wind, another 95 sq ft in spinnaker.

The Day Sailer’s 7′ 4″-long cockpit provides plenty of room for three adults, or two adults and two kids. With four adults it gets cozy; there is not much moving around, so whoever is sitting next to the tiller or foredeck needs to know what to do. It is easy to depower the main, reef it, or furl the jib as needed.

The cuddy is spacious for storing picnic or camping gear, and it affords a space equivalent to a two-person backpacker tent for sleeping aboard for overnight cruising. Adding a topping lift makes the boom nice ridgepole for a boom tent; there’s plenty of room to sleep in the uncluttered cockpit. The Day Sailer has completed many endurance cruising events, such as the Texas 200, Florida 120, and the Everglades Challenge.

A small kicker can be added for auxiliary power. We have used both an electric trolling motor and gas outboard, with best results coming from a 2-1/2-hp four-stroke that pushed push the boat to 6 knots at one-third throttle. The DS I will require a bracket to support and outboard; the DS II transom is thin and sturdy enough for a direct mount. If we’re not going far from home, we occasionally skip the outboard and carry a paddle; with her low coaming we have paddled her a bit, even backward over the transom.

The transom of the Day Sailer II will accommodate an outboard for auxiliary power. The Day Sailer I will require a bracket.

D ay Sailers are easy to find and inexpensive, considering their capabilities. If you come across one, there are few important things to check. Make sure the centerboard moves in the trunk, see that the forestay tang and bow seam are not pulled up, inspect the cuddy deck for noticeable depression which would indicate failure of the maststep under the cuddy floor, and if it is a DS II look inside the flotation compartments. Rinse her off and get her ready to sail. There is a great Day Sailer Association with a web-based forum, and excellent parts availability.

Audrey and Kent Lewis enjoy time with CYANE, along with their small fleet of kayaks, canoe, sailboats, and lapstrake runabout. They blog about their adventures on smallboatrestoration.blogspot.com

Day Sailer Particulars

Length: 16′ 9″ Beam: 6′ 3″ Draft, board up: 9″ Draft, board down: 3′ 9″ Displacement: 575 lbs Sail area Main: 100 sq ft Jib: 45 sq ft Spinnaker: 96 sq ft

The Day Sailer is built by Cape Cod Shipbuilding Company . Prices start at $18,335 (less sails). For more information about the Day Sailer Class, visit the Day Sailer Association .

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats Monthly readers would enjoy? Please email us!

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Comments (38)

Great article Kent! I have a sister to your boat, right down to the racing mast and blue hull!! But since we’re moving to the Pacific NW, I’m about to sell it. I’m limiting myself to only 3 boats for the move (and it’s a hard sorting out!!!!). Great write-up about a fantastic boat! Thanks! Charlie

My father was George O’Day. It is nice to know the basic design that my Dad helped create is still vibrant 60 years later. I always find it interesting since Dad was a pure racing sailor that he designed a boat and saw the importance of appealing to the recreational aspect of sailing. He wanted to open the door to the bigger audience to share his passion of sailing.

I sailed with your father on a Hobie 16 at a Red Cross small craft instructor program. So much fun sailing with a legend.

Charlie we know it’s hard, the Day Sailer is such a timeless boat. If she has to change skippers, find her a good one.

Miss Beth, so wonderful to hear from a family member, it must have been quite an adventure to grow up around boating and racing. That Day Sailer hull was Cap’n Jack’s favorite, we enjoyed looking at it. Thank you for the insight into your family’s history.

Cheers, Skipper and Clark

I’ve had an O’Day for years, my first sailboat. I love sailing her around our little lake.

This boat is the best for a small family. In Brazil it’s a great option.

O’Day DS was my first brand-new boat. I was a “veteran”of maybe six months sailing in the late 1960s and she taught me to love sailing.

Great boat design. I’ve sailed different ones on and off over the years. Still a favorite.

Beth, your father made great boats as my father still has an O’Day 20 he bought new in ’76 and it’s still like new and a great sailing boat!

I recently bought a 1966 model after downsizing from a Viking 28. My father owned a Rhodes 19 and we sailed that boat for years on the western end of Lake Ontario. The design was similar, so the transition to the 16 was easy. I love the boat because even in high winds I can make a simple adjustment to the main with reef points. Solo sailing is fun and safe. I can see why so many were sold.

Hello, I just bought O’day sailboat. I do believe from what I’ve been reading that it’s a Daysailer 1. I was told this boat has never been registered and never had a kicker motor on it, I can’t find the metal tag on the transom but I see the two rivet holes where it should have been. Is there any other place on this boat to find the serial number? I would like to put a kicker on it and register it and, if not, is there a way to register this boat? Thank you for helping

The requirements to register a small boat that has not been registered before is different for each state. In NY, a boat is registered through the DMV. HIN numbers are placed on the right side of the transom. If you do not have one your boat was made prior to 1972.

Thank you for the reply, I’m working on getting a HIN number now.

Check with O’Day. Some manufacturers hide a second HIN onboard. Worth a shot.

My boat has a plate on the inside toward the front of the boat. On the bulkhead (might not be the right term) behind the mast. You’ll have to crawl into the cubby to see it. It’s a little plate 2″ x 4″ and shows Hull no. and Class no. The paperwork I have says the boat was made in 1967. Does anyone know the difference between Hull number and Class number?

Can anyone give me today’s value of a 1960 O’Day Day Sailer, #333, with a small motor that goes on the mount with sails that all sit on a Dilly trailer? It has all the original woodwork that my husband redid. It does not have a spinnaker but has the jib and main and a Proctor mast.

My daughter and I are looking for an older (less expensive) sailboat. Not sure where your at , we are South of Boston. The O’Day is our first choice. If you are going sell, please reply to this comment. Thanks

[I’ll connect sellers to John. Ed.]

16′ O’Day Day Sailor with trailer and motor

2013 DS for sale in Sharon,MA. needs work on floatation tanks

At 30 years old, I just bought my first sailboat which is a 1965 DS I. The boat has sat for a few years and she needed a good power-washing plus painting of the hull and inside the cubby and several new lines. I’m completely inexperienced with sailing (plenty of time cleaning boats, though) and couldn’t be happier to learn on such a beautiful vessel. Thanks for this article! It’s great to get some background info. Plus, plenty of words to highlight as I expand my boating vocab.

Day Sailers are easy to find? I guess you know where to look (certainly no offers in Craigslist). I have not been lucky enough to come across a good one that is 10 to 20 years old. I live in Massachusetts. Would you mind sharing where to look for one?

I have an O’Day day sailer 16.5 ‘ up for the taking. Our family had years of good times sailing and camping with It. Great family boat. Wooden seats and rails. Needs some work. In central Massachusetts

I am assuming you have gotten rid of your O’Day day sailer – if not, I may be interested. I’m new to sailing at 57 years young! I just took lessons at KYC here in Blue Hill, ME and am looking for a great starter boat that I can learn in and have fun on the bay.

Thanks, Kelly

Actually, I just bought a 1989 DS2 from Craigslist, on trailer, for $300. It needs only minor work and a lot of cleaning. I hope to float it Saturday to see if it sinks like a rock (I know it has flotation), and will need glass work, but I could see nothing amiss while on the trailer.

So, never say never.

Hi Laranja, I just read your comment about trying to find a used O’Day Day Sailer. I live in Wareham where Cape Cod Shipbuilding is located, they are the current builders of the Day Sailer. They usually have used boats available. I have a 1971 DS, a wonderful boat.

I have a 2013 DS for sale in Sharon,MA. needs work on floatation tanks

Fantastic article

Interested in purchasing a fine example that was actively sailed

I agree with the many positive comments above. Great article! I was a longtime owner of an O’Day Widgeon (14′), and after many boat-less years I’m pleased to have purchased a 1984 O’Day Daysailer II just last week. It’s in good condition, and after sourcing a few needed part, I’ll enjoy it on lakes here in Georgia. Thanks for the great article, which has served as an orientation of sorts for me as to what to expect when I launch her for her maiden voyage under my ownership. A long-time marketing and sales executive, I’m naming her SAILS CALL!

I just got a DaySailer, thought it was a 67 DS1 but the transom is thick with a box on the port side by the transom so not sure now DSII?

I just today bought and brought home to MA a 1966 O’Day Day Sailer (as shown on the registration from NH), and it has a thick transom with lidded box on the port side. Also has a wide cuddly opening and wooden cowling and thwarts as described above for a DSI.

We’re down sizing from a 53′ Pearson to an O’Day 18 that someone offered us. I have no qualms about the sailing, but the temperature of the water here (Massachusetts to Connecticut) worries me very much, after a lifetime in the tropics. Are these dry boats when sailed conservatively?

I have a 2013 Cape Cod built DS for sale in MA. Needs some work on floatation tanks.

I just sold our Venturer 22 and picked up (rescued) an O’Day 16 DS. A couple weeks in the shop and it looks ready to sail. One question: the roller reefed main (boom) does not “lock in.” I suppose I could jiffy reef it but does anyone have experience with the roller reefing boom? Am I missing a part (the claw) or do I just not get it.

I want to buy an O’Day sail 17′

We have a 1976, 17′ foot O’Day DSll (?) on trailer that we are transferring to another family member. We are trying to figure out the best way to get it from Oregon to New Hampshire. Any ideas out there?

Great article. My only question is we’ve had the 69 O’day Javelin in the family since gramps bought it new but it always seemed too easy to get into trouble with and the one time we turned it over on a very windy day. It was nearly impossible to right back up without a lot of help. So I’m wondering if the DAYSAILER is a much better and more stable boat and more forgivable. There certainly are more of them around too. Thanks, Ed on Long Beach Island at the Jersey shore

Kent/Audrey,

What trailer make and model do you use for your DS?

Thanks, John in VA Beach

Hi all O’Day fans! I’ve been looking for a lightweight, skinny water sailboat that is fairly easy to row AND also has some sort of cabin arraignment, The boat would be used to beachcruise and camp on Florida’s Gulf Coast and in the Keys. I had almost given up on anything with a cabin until I ran across the O’Day 17, I may have found the perfect boat. Now all I need do is find one in my price range and learn how to sail !!! Oh, anyone out there have any experience in the Everglades Challenge? Fair winds and following seas…….

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Need help identifying 14 foot O'day

Thread starter ErinM32
Start date Aug 24, 2012
Oday Owner Forums
Day Sailers

*beam

Looks like it's a Gannet: http://www.iheartodays.com/model_gannet.html http://sailboatdata.com/view_builder.asp?builder_id=51 And it looks like you've quite a rarity, there.

Thank you for confirming it's a Gannet. It must be a rarity - we can't find much information beyond the websites you referenced. Do you know anything more about the boat? Any idea where we might be able to find original paperwork or parts? Thanks again.

I only know what I found on those websites. The best source for information regarding O'Day boats is probably Rudy Nickerson at DR Marine . I didn't see any parts categories on their website for a Gannet, but since he worked at O'Day Rudy may know a little something about them and it would be worth a try to call him. As for finding replacement parts, my guess is that you'll be on your own a bit, but as long as the hull, centerboard and rudder are intact you shouldn't have much trouble bringing the boat back to life because other parts like rigging, blocks, etc. are likely to have been from major suppliers of the era. Parts are parts, so to speak. If you need help with repairs to the hull or otherwise, you've already found a great place to ask questions. Most of us have spent time keeping our old boats seaworthy and you won't find a more knowledgeable group than right here for advice.

Thanks again Indysailor. We'll definitely try calling Rudy at DR Marine. We have a lot of repairs to make on it, so it's good to know this is a friendly forum. We're starting with the hull and when we have that in good shape, will make our way up to the deck and rigging. From what I can tell, the centerboard and rudder look pretty good. Lots of work ahead though.

Sunbird22358

The GANNET was O'DAY's version of an International 14. I don't know how many were built, but I would guess not too many! I found a description in one of my library of old sailing books (The Sailboat classes of North America, 1963). There was a picture, but it wasn't worth scanning. The article says 110 had been built up to the time of the book, does anyone know how long the Gannet was in production? I'll keep looking and post any info I find.

Attachments

Thank you! The summary you posted confirmed what the previous owner said about it... very stable and a good boat to learn on. I'll be interested to hear if you find anything else.

For what it's worth: In the early 60s I discovered a little book that fired my imagination about sailing. It was something like a little "Golden Book" on sailing; a little instruction book with photographs and the demonstrator, photographed boat was, I'm pretty sure, a Gannet. There were a number of photos of the boat and I was smitten. I have a copy somewhere, but damnme, where?

I think I have that same book! Actually, I'm on my second copy....I started "reading" the first copy as a little kid (well, looked at pictures, I was probably less than 5 years old) and the book wore out (must have been a book my Dad bought for himself and I "comandeered?") I finally found another copy in a used book store about 10 years ago.... I"m guarding that copy like gold! The book is too fragile to scan individual pages.

Has anyone heard of a Gannet being offered with a cast iron keel? I just bought a boat in Belize C.A. and it looks for all the world like a Gannet hull, but with a bolt-on iron keel. At first I thought it was a Javelin, but it's clearly not. It has a much plumber bow than a Javelin and a aft deck, which Javelin's lack. It has no cockpit benches, only a very substantial thwart just forward of midships. The rigging instructions for a Javelin specify a 6-bolt keel and I saw only 4 keelbolts on this boat. Finally, the specs I've seen for a fixed-keel javelin include 3' draft, but this boat won't draw more than 30". Any ideas about what I've got? Any help would be much appreciated. Greg Zane

Pictures?? I thought maybe Cape Cod Mercury, but they have seats. The 14' OMEGA (AKA CAPRI 14 or CAPRI 14.2) was offered with a keel version, but again..they had seats in hte cockpit as did the LIDO 14 that I think also had a keel option. Neither the Omega or Lido had an afterdeck though. Keel model of the JAVELIN had a 2' Draft, Mercury has 29" Draft. I think a picture of your new boat might help us ID her for you?

Absolutely I should have taken pictures while I was in Belize, but I didn't. I thought I knew what I had until I got back and really started looking at photos. I'm back in Florida now and won't be back in Belize for several months. Oh well...... I know the keel Mercury very well, it's one of my favorite boats. In fact, I bought this in part because of it's resemblence to a keel Mercury, but I'm certain it's not a Mercury. I found a copy of "Sailing A Golden Handbook" on Amazon.com and bought it for a big investment of $5.50. I'm hoping the pictures in it will allow me to tell if I have a Gannet hull, especially pictures of the cockpit layout. Thanks for the help. Greg P.S. Looking carefully at the original poster's 4th photo, the forward end of the centerboard trunk and cockpit, remove the centerboard trunk and you have my boat exactly. Same mast step, same little swing-arm mast retainer on the aft end of the foredeck, and the forward bulkhead in the same location. The only difference is my forward and aft bulkheads have waterproof hatches, but I bet they are later additions. If the Gannet has no seats, that's the hull I've got, but with an fixed keel, maybe a Javelin keel? Maybe this was someone's personal project? Hmmm...... Now I really can't wait to get "Sailing" and see more photos of Gannets!

Here is a picture of the GANNET interior from that book. No seats! I assume the skipper and crew sat on the side decks. It is entirely possible that a few (well, at least one?) GANNETs were built with a keel instead of the CB as a custom order or maybe a previous owner modified the boat? Anyway, this boat just might be an old O'DAY GANNET with a keel.

Now I'm very glad to have ordered that book, and anxious for it to come. Thanks for posting that picture. Remove the centerboard trunk from that photo and you have the cockpit of my boat, exactly. I'm pretty confident I know what I have now, a Gannet hull with a cast-iron fixed keel. Now if I can find a picture of a Javelin keel maybe I'll know where that came from too. Whether it was an O'Day experiment, a custom factory order, or a one-off modification by a previous owner I doubt I'll ever know. But at least I know what I have and know it to be a very rare bird. Thanks for all your help. Greg P.S After seeing this line drawing of a keel Javelin, I'm pretty sure my boat does not have a Javelin keel. Mine is a swept fin foil with a distinct bulb on the bottom. So now the question becomes where did this keel come from? Hmmm.......

So I got my copy of "Sailing" in the mail today. What a great little book on the basics of sailing and boat handling! No doubt about it, I've got a Gannet. Now only the origin of the keel is a mystery. Thank you for all your help with identifying the boat I bought, and thank you for hooking me up with this book too. They seem to be readily available at Amazon.com if anyone else wants a copy. Greg

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14' ODay Javelin w/Trailer

1979 oday javelin.

Price: Contact seller
Condition: Used
Model: Javelin
Location: Sharpsburg, Georgia, United States

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New O'Day Javelin 14 owner with some questions!

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Hello Sailnet! I had posted a few years back! The wife and I had bought a 1974 C&C 30. The boat was great but add 2 young kids to the mix and we found that we had very little time to take the "big" boat out sailing on Lake Champlain (VT/NY). This past weekend we sold the C&C 30. The very next day I found and bought a 1983 O'Day Javelin (14ft)!!! She is a beauty! We are lucky enough to live on the water and I can just push her off the beach myself, get the rigging up in 10 minutes and be off! I actually took the boat out yesterday with almost zero wind and still had the biggest grin on my face. I did have some questions about the rigging, was wondering if anyone could help us: 1. My main confusion comes from the outhaul. The mainsail clew has a line through it but the end of the boom has no block, just a carabiner and then there is no cleat to tie back on the boom. Anyone have pictures of what the end of their Javelin's boom looks like? I just jury rigged it to that carabiner but in more serious winds would like a more sturdy solution, am considering adding a small cleat to the end of the boom. 2. Do some people install a topping lift line from the top of the mast? I have to say I was confused by the sails being the only force holding the boom up and the boom flopping down into the cockpit when I released tension on the main halyard. I'd eventually like to keep the mainsail in some sort of bag on the boom and would rather not have if on the bottom of the cockpit that could get wet. 3. Do you guys with daysailers take off the jib and bag it every time or could I manually furl the jib around the forestay? 4. Lastly I plan to install a small electric trolling motor to get around more efficiently when the wind in our part of the bay dies down, would a 30lbs of thrust motor be sufficient for a 14 foot vessel with 475LBS displacement? I also plan to add lithium battery and a small solar panel to charge the battery (yes I know this is overkill). What are the chances of my capsizing the boat and the battery falling to the bottom of the lake? Is it possible to NEVER flip such a small boat? I'd probably somehow secure the battery in the little cubby. Could I drill small holes through the seating portion of the hull to run 12V wires aft? Thanks for any input! Pete

there should be a cleat on the boom for the outhaul https://daysailer.org/Resources/Documents/ds1man-oday.pdf

My recollection is that Javelins had several different deck molds over its history. The earliest one had wooden floor boards and an open area under the foredeck. the second one had a fiberglass sole in the cockpit that was integral with the seats and small aft deck, and a bulkhead and to close the area under the forward deck. I think that the last deck mold did away with the small deck aft. My recollection is that all three had a way to mount a small outboard. It was assumed that the outboard had an integral fuel tank on first deck and probably the last. The deck mold with the aft deck assumed that a small tank could be stored under that deck. Some of the deck molds had a small locker in one of the seats, but all of them used the seats and the bow tank for buoyancy tanks so cutting into them is not a great idea. Javelins can capsize, especially in a gusty sailing location like Lake Champlain so securing the outboard and batteries will be important. I would probably remove the jib and bag it all the time. That said, I had a small daysailer with a jib bag that had a zipper on the opening that was arranged so that the bag could be put on the sail while it was hanked on and then zip up in front of the forestay. The aft end of the sail had a bail that the jib halyard could hook to and lift it off the deck and a light line that ran to the base of the mast that kept the jib bag from flopping around. My recollection is that the original outhaul on the Javelin was pretty rudimentary. There was a cast aluminum end fitting that had an eye in it. A light line was tied to the clew of the sail, passed through that eye, back through the clew cringle and was tied with a couple half hitches at the clew. It wasn't adjustable when sailing. A topping lift would be an unnecessary complication on a boat this size. Typically, when the sail is down, the boom is topped up by attaching the main halyard to the end of the boom at the outhaul fitting. (That is still done on race boats up to around 30 feet.) At that point a sail cover would work. If you are only single-handing you might want to add slugs on the mainsail as well. Other wise fold the head of the sail down to the foot and roll the sail up from the middle. Jeff

I've found that my 36 lb trolling motor is plenty of push for my SJ21, so I imagine the 30lb would be sufficient for your boat Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

No problem putting a topping lift on a javelin. It probably makes sense. I would expect a 30 lb trolling motor to push a Javelin between 2-3 knots. I wouldn't expect a lot of range. Maybe a couple of miles with a standard car battery. I would say you could mostly avoid dumping a javelin, but I would secure the battery as if you were going to capsize. You wouldn't want to have a battery turn into a projectile if you did flip. You can get plastic battery boxes that work nicely. I keep my beach cat rigged on the beach for the summer, but I take off both sails in between use. Main and jib.

I’ve had a javelin (1968) since it was new. Here is my take on your questions. 1) ours still has original sails.we just tied the line to end of the boom. if I were to update it I would put a block on the end of the boom,lead it inboard and use a jam cleat to secure. 2) we have no topping lift. Originally it had an paddle with a notch in the handle end to support the boom. Now we use the main halyard to lift the boom and snugged the mainsheet. At rest, we flaked and tied the sail on top of boom. Long term we took it off. 3) the jib we either bagged it or tied I to the foredeck. 4) the motor you have in mind will work for short distances. secure the battery. Yes you can capsize and even turn turtle. I’ve done both in my youth. good luck it’s a fine boat!

Old man w/sailboat said: I've had a javelin (1968) since it was new. Here is my take on your questions. 1) ours still has original sails.we just tied the line to end of the boom. if I were to update it I would put a block on the end of the boom,lead it inboard and use a jam cleat to secure. 2) we have no topping lift. Originally it had an paddle with a notch in the handle end to support the boom. Now we use the main halyard to lift the boom and snugged the mainsheet. At rest, we flaked and tied the sail on top of boom. Long term we took it off. 3) the jib we either bagged it or tied I to the foredeck. 4) the motor you have in mind will work for short distances. secure the battery. Yes you can capsize and even turn turtle. I've done both in my youth. good luck it's a fine boat! Click to expand...

Pete_the_Puma said: Hello Sailnet! I had posted a few years back! The wife and I had bought a 1974 C&C 30. The boat was great but add 2 young kids to the mix and we found that we had very little time to take the "big" boat out sailing on Lake Champlain (VT/NY). This past weekend we sold the C&C 30. The very next day I found and bought a 1983 O'Day Javelin (14ft)!!! She is a beauty! We are lucky enough to live on the water and I can just push her off the beach myself, get the rigging up in 10 minutes and be off! I actually took the boat out yesterday with almost zero wind and still had the biggest grin on my face. I did have some questions about the rigging, was wondering if anyone could help us: 1. My main confusion comes from the outhaul. The mainsail clew has a line through it but the end of the boom has no block, just a carabiner and then there is no cleat to tie back on the boom. Anyone have pictures of what the end of their Javelin's boom looks like? I just jury rigged it to that carabiner but in more serious winds would like a more sturdy solution, am considering adding a small cleat to the end of the boom. 2. Do some people install a topping lift line from the top of the mast? I have to say I was confused by the sails being the only force holding the boom up and the boom flopping down into the cockpit when I released tension on the main halyard. I'd eventually like to keep the mainsail in some sort of bag on the boom and would rather not have if on the bottom of the cockpit that could get wet. 3. Do you guys with daysailers take off the jib and bag it every time or could I manually furl the jib around the forestay? 4. Lastly I plan to install a small electric trolling motor to get around more efficiently when the wind in our part of the bay dies down, would a 30lbs of thrust motor be sufficient for a 14 foot vessel with 475LBS displacement? I also plan to add lithium battery and a small solar panel to charge the battery (yes I know this is overkill). What are the chances of my capsizing the boat and the battery falling to the bottom of the lake? Is it possible to NEVER flip such a small boat? I'd probably somehow secure the battery in the little cubby. Could I drill small holes through the seating portion of the hull to run 12V wires aft? Thanks for any input! Pete Click to expand...

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Beam: 5.9' Draft: 2.5'

Beam: 6.08' Draft: 3.83'

Beam: 5.20'

Beam: 5.8'

Beam: 5.83' Draft: 2.5'

Beam: 5.8' Draft: 2.5'

Beam: 5.4' Draft: 2.42'

Beam: 5.5' Draft: .5'

Beam: 4'

Beam: 6' Draft: 2.5'

Beam: 7.9' Draft: 1'

Beam: 5' Draft: 6.5'

Beam: 4.5' Draft: 2.5'

Beam: 5' Draft: 1'

Beam: 5 .5' Draft: 3.17'

Beam: 4.75' Draft: 4'

Beam: 4.58' Draft: 2.5'

Beam: 5.5' Draft: .5'

Beam: 7.7'

Beam: 5.67' Draft: 3.67'

Beam: 5.6' Draft: 3.4'

Beam: 5.5' Draft: 3.42'

Beam: 5.50' Draft: 3.42'

Beam: 5.5' Draft: 3.42'

Beam: 5.50' Draft: 3.42'

Beam: 6.2' Draft: .5'

Beam: 6'2' Draft: 3'6'

Beam: 6.16' Draft: .33'

Beam: 6.6' Draft: 3.5'

Beam: 6.16' Draft: 2.04'

Beam: 4'

Beam: 6' Draft: 4'

Beam: 5.2' Draft: 3.9'

Beam: 5'' Draft: 3.77'

Beam: 5'

Beam: 6' Draft: 2'

Beam: 5.5' Draft: 0.6'

Beam: 7' Draft: .6'

Beam: 7' Draft: 2'

Beam: 6'9' Draft: 2'3'

Beam: 6.6' Draft: 2.04'

Beam: 58'

Beam: 6' 8' Draft: 0-7'

Beam: 5.8' Draft: 3'

Beam: 5.5' Draft: 2.5'

Beam: 7' Draft: 3'