sailboat solar panel mount

Adaptability

Solar power has never been so easy

Options and choices

In general we use two basic options for mounting rigid solar panels – one gets you up and over the canvas, and the other is a bit leaner. We then adapt the basic concept to the boat in question.

You can read more about these basic models in our article in Marine Fabricator magazine . This will give you a good idea where to start in planning your solar panel project.

Please also see our page of advice and FAQs on adding solar panels in seven easy steps.

Once you have a basic mounting option in mind, you can choose what Gemini Marine Products you want to use to execute the build. Real people build solar panel mounts with our hardware all the time – see a selection of their recommendations below.

Option 1: Low and lean

We designed our saddle-type  post and fork mounts  with solar panels in mind. They give you easy, secure mounts for a solar panel frame that won’t draw attention to itself.

The saddle fittings bolt onto the top of the frame through the canvas of your bimini top or dodger. Rails running fore and aft create the base, and athwartship rails can augment the frame if needed. The entire installation can be made from off-the-shelf materials on the boat.

This option puts the entire rack up on the roof and largely hidden from view.

Option 2: Up and over

Alternatively you can use our   sliding or split side mounts  to create exterior side rails between your bimini’s end frames. Paired with a set of side-to-side bent rails, they go up and over the top to create the mounting platform.

This method does not touch the canvas and can be retrofitted without any fabric modifications. It provides good clearance and additional features such as a protective crash bar (think boom).

“ Easily executed .” – Tonya Ricketts and Captain Dave Pickering North East Canvas Products Association on using Gemini Marine Products for solar panel installation

DIY hybrids to meet your needs

You can of course mix and match our hardware and methods to create exactly what you need to suit your boat and the solar panels you’ve chosen.

Don’t take our word for it

Pleasure boats, cruisers, working boats – real boat owners use our stainless to get solar on their boat, and they like it. We’ve rounded up some of their thoughts going back years so you can see for yourself. No affiliate payments. No free stuff. Most of the time not even letting us know when they post. Just happy customers telling others about Gemini Marine Products. You can join them…

• The good folks at Abroad Reach Travel go through all the pros and cons of solar panel installation on boats, and when it comes to rigid panels, our rail mounts are right there on the shopping list .
• Over at Tugnuts you’ll find lots of people using our mounts to install their solar panels . (Just search “Gemini” and see.)
• On trawlerforum.com kchase wrote, “I am in the process of adding panels above my bimini with Gemini frame mounts that are readily available and a rugged frame that’s very easy to make…I really wanted to do something like this for some time, but until I saw the Gemini mounts could never figure out how it would work for me.” 
• On sailnet.com Maine Sail wrote, “Check out Gemini Canvas here in Maine. John the owner has been developing some very beautiful tube mounts that also work well for solar panels.”
• Say it with pictures: Main Sail is back on sailboatowners.com saying, “Your best bet is probably to measure then custom order a pre-made heavy walled SS bimini frame then mount the panels to the bimini frame using Gemini mounts.” There are a couple of great before and after photos of the combination strapless bimini /solar panel mount created for this boat.
• On cruisersforum.com a user questioned the price of our stuff, and moderator Jammy chimed in, “The Gemini mounts are well thought out and high quality, and worth the price.”
• Also on cruisersforum.com user epiic was impressed with our work, but needed 1 1/4″ fittings. When user cotemar pointed them in the direction of our split side mounts, epiic replied, “Whoa. I did not see these on their website. This is even better!!! Thank-you so much!” Since this discussion we’ve added 1 1/4″ sizes to our most popular products just for situations like this.
• Then there are the good folks on m/v Makena Kai who made a YouTube video showing how they use our split side mounts to attach really BIG solar panels:

We absolutely can help you get solar panels on your boat. Call us for advice, or order today .

Need a helping hand?

Use our DrillSteady  for clean, easy drilling every time, even on a rocking boat.

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Adding Solar Power to a Sailboat

• By Emily Fagan
• Updated: October 18, 2019

During our nearly four-year cruise of Mexico, my husband, Mark, and I lived almost exclusively on 555 watts of solar power charging a 640-amp-hour house battery bank. We anchored out virtually every night aboard our 2008 Hunter 44DS, Groovy , and relied on the sun for power. During one 10-week stretch, while we waited for a replacement engine alternator to arrive, our boat’s solar panels were our sole source of power. We had no backup charging system to turn to, and yet we lived and sailed comfortably the entire time. Mounting solar panels on a sailboat was not difficult, but a few key decisions made a huge difference in how effective our panels were.

A solar-power installation on a sailboat is made up of two independent systems: one system to charge the batteries, and another system to provide 120-volt AC power for household appliances. In the charging system, the solar panels convert sunlight into electrical current and deliver it to the batteries via a solar charge controller. Similar to a voltage regulator, the charge controller acts as a gatekeeper to protect the batteries from receiving more current than they need as they are being charged. In the AC power system, an inverter or inverter/charger converts the 12-volt DC power in the battery into 120 volts AC whenever it is turned on.

Panel Positioning and Wiring Considerations

One of the biggest challenges for sailors installing solar power on a sailboat is finding a place on the boat where the panels will be shaded as little as possible. Just a few square inches of shade on one panel can render that panel all but inoperable. Unfortunately, between the mast, radome, spreaders and boom, shadows cross the deck all day long, especially as the boat swings back and forth at anchor.

What’s worse, if the panels are wired in series rather than in parallel, this little bit of shade can shut down the entire solar-panel array. When we installed solar power on Groovy , we had already lived exclusively on solar power in an RV for over two years. Our RV solar panels had been wired in series, and we had witnessed the array shutting down current production when just half of one panel was shaded.

Choosing whether to wire the panels in series or parallel on a boat affects the wire gauge required, which is why many solar-power installers lean toward wiring the panels in series. Panels wired in series can be wired all the way to the solar charge controller with a thinner-gauge wire than those wired in parallel. This is because the voltage of panels wired in series is additive, while the current remains constant, so the current flowing is just that of a single panel. In contrast, the current flowing from panels that are wired in parallel is additive, while the voltage across them is not. This means that in a parallel installation, the current going to the charge controller is several times higher and requires much thicker cable to avoid any voltage loss over the length of the wire.

Not only is thinner-gauge wire less expensive, but it is also more supple and easier to work with, making the job of snaking it in and around various crevices in the boat and connecting it to the solar charge controller much less of a struggle. Thus the choice between series and parallel wiring boils down to a trade-off between system performance, expense and ease of solar system installation.

Luckily, the size of the wire can be reduced if higher-­voltage solar panels are chosen. Since watts are determined by multiplying volts by amps, a higher-voltage panel that generates the same watts as a lower-voltage panel will produce less current. Therefore, selecting nominal 24-volt panels instead of 12-volt panels allows for the use of thinner wire sizes no matter how they are wired.

Our Marine Solar Panel Design Choices

In our installation, we decided to mount three 185-watt, 24-volt (nominal) Kyocera solar panels high above the cockpit, well aft of the boom, as far away as possible from potential shade. Our Hunter came with a big, solid stainless-steel arch, and we turned to Alejandro Ulloa, a brilliant metal fabricator at Baja Naval Boatyard in Ensenada, Mexico, to build a polished stainless-steel solar-panel arch extension onto the existing structure. He designed the arch extension with integrated telescoping davits to hoist our dinghy as well as support the solar panels. These davits were strong enough — and the lines and blocks had enough purchase — that either of us could lift our light Porta-Bote dinghy with its 6-horsepower outboard without a winch.

We spaced the panels about a half-inch apart and wired them in parallel. Using two twin-lead wires, we snaked the three positive leads and one common ground down through the inside of the arch tubes so they wouldn’t be visible, and placed wire loom over the exposed wires under the panels.

The junction points for the three parallel panels were on positive and negative bus bars inside a combiner box, all mounted in a cockpit lazarette. Inside the combiner box, we installed three breakers, one for each panel. This gave us the ability to shut off any or all of the panels if we needed to (we never did).

We mounted a Xantrex solar charge controller (model XW MPPT 60-150) in a hanging locker, as close to the batteries as possible, in a spot where it was easy to monitor and program. We ran twin-lead wire from the combiner box to the charge controller and from there to the batteries.

Our boat came with three new 12-volt Mastervolt 4D AGM house batteries, all wired in parallel, for a total of 480 amp-hours of capacity. We wanted a bigger house battery bank, and because it is best for the age, type and size of the batteries to be matched, we added a fourth new Mastervolt 4D AGM house battery, which brought our total to 640 amp-hours. Our batteries were installed at the lowest point in the hull, below the floorboards, and they ran the length of the saloon, from just forward of the companionway stairs to just aft of the V-berth stateroom door.

The best way to charge a bank of batteries that are wired in parallel is to span the entire battery bank with the leads coming from the charge controller. We did this by connecting the positive lead from the charge controller to the positive terminal of the first battery in the bank, and the negative lead from the charge controller to the negative terminal of the last battery. By spanning the entire bank, the batteries were charged equally rather than having the charging current focused on just the first battery in the bank.

We feel that AGM batteries are superior to wet cell (flooded) batteries because they can be installed in any orientation, don’t require maintenance, can’t spill (even in a capsize), and charge more quickly. Our Mastervolt batteries, like almost all AGM batteries on the market, are dual-purpose, combining the very different characteristics of both deep-cycle and start batteries. Our batteries work well, but if we were doing an installation from scratch today, we would consider the new Trojan Reliant AGM batteries. These batteries are engineered strictly for deep-cycle use and have been optimized to provide consistent current and maximize battery life.

Our boat came with a Xantrex Freedom 2,500-watt inverter/charger wired into the boat’s AC wiring system with a transfer switch. The inverter/charger performed two functions. While the boat was disconnected from shore power, it converted the batteries’ 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power, allowing us to operate 120-volt appliances, like our microwave. When the boat was connected to shore power, it charged the batteries.

Because this inverter/charger was a modified-sine-wave inverter, mimicking AC ­current with a stair-stepped square wave, we also had a 600-watt pure-sine-wave inverter to power our potentially more sensitive electronic devices. We chose Exeltech because its inverters produce an electrical signal that is clean enough to power medical equipment, and they are NASA’s choice for both the Russian and American sides of the International Space Station. For simplicity, rather than wiring the inverter into the cabin’s AC wiring, we plugged ordinary household power strips into the AC outlets on the inverter and plugged our appliances into the power strips. Like the charge controller, the inverter must be located as close to the batteries as possible. Ours was under a settee.

Shade’s Impact on Sailboat Solar Panels

Once our solar installation was completed on our sailboat, we closely observed the effects of shade on our solar-panel array. We were often anchored in an orientation that put the panels in full sun. Just as often, however, we were angled in such a way that shade from the mast and boom covered portions of our panels. It was fascinating to monitor the solar charge controller’s LCD display whenever the sun was forward of the beam — the current from the panels to the batteries fluctuated up and down as we swung at anchor.

Taking notes one morning, we noticed that the charging current was repeatedly creeping up and down between 9.5 and 24.5 amps as the boat moved to and fro. When the entire solar-panel array was in full sun, it generated 24.5 amps of current. When we moved so the mast shaded a portion of one panel, the array generated 15 amps. When it shaded portions of two panels and only one was in full sun, the array produced just 9.5 amps. Of course, it would have been preferable to see a steady 24.5 amps all morning, but this sure beat watching the current drop to zero whenever a shadow crossed a panel.

We discovered that shade makes a huge impact while sailing, too. Surprisingly, it is far worse to have the panels shaded by the sails than to have the panels in full sun but tilted away from its direct rays. One afternoon, we noticed that while we were on a tack that tilted the panels away from the sun, they generated 24.5 amps of current, whereas on a tack where the panels were tilted toward the sun but two of the three were partially shaded by the sails, the current dropped to a mere 10 amps.

Reflections On Our Solar Panel Installation

A wonderful and surprising side benefit of our large solar panels and arch system was that the setup created fabulous shade over the jumpseats at the stern end of the cockpit. Our metal fabricator, Alejandro, placed a support strut at hand-holding height, and sitting in those seats feels secure and comfortable while sailing, no matter the conditions.

After living on solar power for eight years of cruising and land-yacht travel, we’ve learned that you can never have too much solar power. Groovy’s 555 watts was enough to run all our household appliances as needed, including our nearly 4-cubic-foot DC refrigerator, two laptops, a TV/DVD player, and lights at night. However, it was not quite enough power to run all that plus our stand-alone 2.5-cubic-foot DC freezer during the short days and low sun angles of the winter months without supplemental charging from the engine alternator every few days. For the 10 weeks that we did not have a functioning alternator, our solution was to turn off the freezer, which enabled our batteries to reach full charge every afternoon.

Solar power made a world of difference in our cruise. Not only did it allow us to live comfortably and with ample electricity for weeks on end when our engine alternator went on the blink, but as a “set-it-and-forget-it” system, it also gave us the freedom to anchor out for as long as we wished without worrying about the batteries. In our eyes, the solar-panel arch enhanced the beauty and lines of our boat, giving her a sleek and clean appearance. It was true icing on the cake to discover that the panels and arch system also provided much-needed shade over the cockpit and helm from the hot tropical sunshine. If you are preparing for a cruise, consider turning to the sun for electricity and outfitting your sailboat with solar power.

The Installation:

Emily and Mark Fagan offer cruising tips and share their stories and photos on their website, roadslesstraveled.us . They are currently enjoying a land cruise across America aboard an RV.

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The Complete Guide to Solar Panel Mounts for Boats (and Where to Position Them)

How many boaters invest hours researching solar panels? They go all wide-eyed at the shiny panels, marveling at their ingenuity, but how many consider the humble mounts those bright panels sit on?

Let's face facts: Solar panels get all the glory, but spare a thought for the mounts? A good mount can help you get the most out of your solar, increasing your capacity by up to 40 percent.

So maybe it's time for mounts to step out of the shadows of solar panels and into the sunlight (bad pun, I know). Seriously, let's give them some glory.

The type of mounts you have depends on what you want the solar to do and the space available. Is it to charge a cell phone or mobile GPS unit? Or is it to power your entire onboard needs when stationary?

The engine does the hard work when you're moving, so you only really need solar when you're moored up, right? To find out what solar mounts are right for you, we first need to discover what type of boater you are.

Are You a Liveaboard Boater?

Being a liveaboard boater  is a different experience to being a leisure boater. You can't just plug-in to a marina or get into an SUV and tow the boat home at the first sign of a rain cloud. The boat is your home.

So power is something you need to manage carefully. And the right solar panel mounts for your boat are essential to optimize the performance of your solar panels.

Are You a Leisure Boater?

As a leisure boater, you'll have different priorities than a liveaboard, and your need to manage power is not so crucial. You'll watch for sunny weather and head out in the boat for a day or weekend excursion . So why do you need solar?

Coolers need power to chill their contents and cell phones need charging. But in the main, the boat engine will power the electrical equipment onboard, because there won't be long periods when you're not moving, unlike a liveaboard boater.

Liveaboard or not, if the sun's power reduces your costs, minimizes the engine's wear and tear and you can afford it, why not?

What Are the Best Boats for Solar Panel Mounts?

Pontoon Boats

It depends on the size and shape of your pontoon boat . Smaller vessels are designed to make the most of the available space, which means seating and guests take priority on the deck .

Newer models, like the Cypress Cay Sea breeze SL 250, have virtually no surface to put solar mounts. Some pontoons have living space.

The Canadian manufacturer  South lands  builds hybrid pontoon boats, but the average pontoon vessels are for day trips and fishing. Some pontoons have fixed canopies so solar mounts can fit the available flat surfaces .

If you're in the market for a pontoon boat, solar panels and how to mount them are way down on your list of priorities.

Yachts offer a multitude of opportunities to fit solar mounts. Pole mounts are popular with yacht owners, as are fixed and angled mounts . And because most yachts are seafaring, there's little to obstruct the sun's rays way out in the ocean.

In addition, yachts are designed to travel farther, making extended periods onboard inevitable. This means that choosing the right mount is crucial to achieving maximum input.

Canal Boats

A  canal boat's  design makes them ideal vessels to fit solar mounts. Their robust, steel roofs can withstand the most durable solar panel mounts. This means larger panels can be attached to increase onboard power input.

Because of their long shape, canal boats also allow various panel mount options too. In fact, the only solar panel mount that's unsuitable for a canal boat is the pole mount because of low canal bridge clearances.

Motor Cruisers

Motor cruisers, because of their shape, often have plenty of space for panel mounts to be fitted. With long flat roofs, most motor cruisers (even the mid-range ones) are excellent boats for fixed, angled and even pole mounts .

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The Best Ways to Fix Solar Panel Mounts to Your Boat

Glue adhesives.

There are numerous products available to bond panel mounts to any surface. If you choose this option, it's worth remembering there's some prep work before applying the glue.

Most manufacturers recommend cleaning the surface area before bonding, and some recommend lightly sanding the surface before applying adhesive.

I recommend this  Sikaflex-252 White Polyurethane Adhesive The most significant advantage of this glue is that once dried, it can be sanded and painted. Oh, and when choosing adhesives, there's the small matter of  no holes .

The fixing solution you choose depends on the boat you have and where it's used. Gluing solar mounts on a seafaring yacht may not be the best idea, especially if you're mid-Atlantic in force nine gales.

You want to know that the mounts are going to do their job and hold your solar panels in place. This Temco Z Bracket Stainless Steel Mount Kit (Available on Amazon) can be easily installed on solar panels. The stainless steel material means it'll never leave rust on your boat.

You're gonna need to bolt the mounts to the roof. Just make sure that when you've drilled the holes, you have enough marine-grade  sealant to plug the gaps.

Panel Sizes Versus Types of Mounts for Your Boat

Some solar panel mounts aren't suitable for different-sized panels. The most robust by far is the fixed mount system. If you cruise a lot and don't mind the panels being permanently flat, then these mounts can handle whatever weight you throw at them.

If you want tilt and angled mounts, then you'll need to check with the manufacturer what the maximum load is. The general rule of thumb is: the larger the mount, the bigger the panel it will hold.

Panel weights 100 w or less will fit cheaper mounts. If you want panels over 100 w, check with the bracket manufacturer to see the maximum load weight.

The Best Way to Position Solar Panel Mounts on the Boat

Your first consideration is the obstructions that might hamper the performance of the panels. Get it wrong and all that hard-earned cash you shelled will be for nothing.

Putting a fixed mount for solar on a deck of a motor cruiser isn't any good if you then use a retractable canopy to shield you from the sun and it blocks the panel producing energy. You've just wasted hundreds of dollars.

Another consideration is the mount type, especially if you're stationary for long periods. Tracking the sun by tilting the panels when not moving will increase power input massively.

If you're mostly moving and rarely still, then flat is best. This position optimizes the sun's rays, drawing power in whichever position the boat sits.

Look at your own boat. Does it have large flat areas, preferably high up and unaffected by shadows or obstructions? If the answer is yes, then the next consideration is what type of solar panel mount is best for you.

The Different Types of Solar Panel Mounts for Boats

Fixed Mount

The  HQST Z-Bracket is an excellent example of a fixed mount. It's lightweight and inexpensive. And I mean cheap!

It isn't complicated to fit, although it does require you to drill holes in whatever surface you attach it to. This bracket also enables you to mount the panel to many styles of vessels. The manufacturer even recommends them for RVs.

The other advantage of a fixed mount system is its ability to handle panel sizes from the smallest all the way up to 300w. While these look like a good option, it's worth remembering that if you need the flexibility of moving the panels to chase the sun, fixed mounts won't be for you. 

On an ocean-going yacht or a pontoon boat (space permitting) on a lake, the fixed mount system would be worth considering. There'll be minimum obstructions, and while you're always moving, the flat fixed mounts will optimize the charge into the batteries.

There are other types of fixed-mount systems that don't require any drilling.

The  Renogy Solar Panel Drill-Free Corner Bracket is a good choice if you don't want to drill holes in your boat roof. They aren't as cheap as the Z-Brackets, but primarily they do the same job.

If you own a boat with a fiberglass body, drilling into the roof simply isn't an option. So how are they fixed? Good old bonding adhesive like Sikaflex 252 (Available on Amazon) .

Adjustable Mounts

The Renogy Adjustable Tilt Mount Bracket  mount enables the solar panel to be adjusted to directly face the sun, a feature commonly used when the boat is still.

For the liveaboard boater, the adjustable mount is crucial. By adjusting the angle of the panels, you can increase the input of energy by up to 40 percent.

This particular model can only support a maximum panel of 150w, and the adjustment angle does decrease depending on the size of the panels. So it's worth considering that the max 150w panel, while the most powerful, could give less performance with this bracket, because of the angle that it can be mounted.

What makes this mount different is that the brackets that attach to the roof of your boat are independent of each other, rather than on a long aluminum bracket joining them together.

It means the roof doesn't have to be completely flat. Canal boats would benefit from this type of bracket because they have slightly curved roofs.

The Link Solar Adjustable Rack Solar Panel Mount  is another adjustable bracket, enabling the maximum performance of the panels.

It's a rack system, so it has a long strip bracket that attaches to the roof. The beauty of this system is the capacity it can handle.

If you invest in the 41-inch bracket, it'll take the weight of a 300w solar panel. It may cost more, but given that you'll probably only need two brackets if you're mounting 300w solar panels, it could still be a cost-effective choice.

Just remember where you're going to mount it. Because it's a rack system panel mount, it only fits on perfectly flat surfaces.

AM Solar 35mm Tilting Mount Okay, I'm a bit sneaky here. Technically, these mounts are for RVs. But if it attaches to RVs, it'll attach to your boat. They're light, compact and give vital adjustability to maximize the sun's power.

This mounting system's advantage is you'll avoid drilling holes in your roof. Each bracket has a VHB tape strip, which bonds to most surfaces. Fiberglass gives the best bond, but if it works for RVs, then metal surfaces will work too.

A word of caution:  These brackets attach by drilling into the solar panel's side. This is the crucial bit: If you're piercing the side of your panel, there's a strong chance you'll invalidate the warranty.

It's worth checking before you do. AM Solar sells compatible panels with pre-drilled holes, which massively cuts down on your choices and ability to shop around for the best price.

Pole Mounts 

Missouri Pole Mount

Let's start with a positive: This pole mount is 100% American. That's got to be a good thing, right? 

Pole mounts are excellent for panels that can be raised up to avoid obstructions. They're also good for boats with limited solar panel mounting space.

Pole mounts are popular with yacht owners due to their maneuverability and height adjustment properties. This particular pole system can handle two 100w panels, so there's no need to compromise on the energy you create.

What We've Learned

All the solar panel mounts featured are value for money. What to consider is the panel size. Is it better to have two 300w panels, reducing the number of solar mounts? Or do you go for six 100w panels, increasing the mount's overall cost? That'll depend on your boat's available space.

By far, the easiest to use is the fixed flat system . Glue or bolt the brackets on and away you go. No fuss. But again, mounting space may be an issue, so this type of mount won't be for everyone.

The most efficient is the angled, adjustable mount . Liveaboards should consider this when buying solar. Increasing your panel's performance with the ability to angle towards the sun is vital if you're stationary for extended periods.

In winter, when the sun sits lower in the sky, you'll reap the benefits of angled mounting systems for sure.

To clean your solar panels, simply rinse with a boat hose  and nozzle and swipe with a silicone squeegee . This is a quick task to do when you've got out the boat soap  or hull cleaner for the rest of the vessel.

One Final Point

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What You Need To Know About Boat Solar Panels

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Sunshine and boats are a natural together, so why not use all that free energy? Here’s the lowdown on solar panel selection and installation

I first embraced the idea of solar power while up a pole (literally) in the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway replacing dead batteries. It was the early 1980s, and I was maintaining buoys, beacons, and other such Aids To Navigation (ATON) for the U.S. Coast Guard, replacing massive, nonrechargeable batteries with rechargeable solar-powered ones. The higher-ups said the solar rechargeables would last six years – twice as long as the one-shot batteries. As the deck-ape in charge of lugging all those batteries up and down the ladders, my back and I immediately appreciated the whole “free power from the sun” thing, a concept I continue to embrace.

The strategy behind s olar energy onboard is simple: A solar panel converts sunlight into electricity, after which wiring conducts it to your batteries for storage until needed. Solar panels are used to keep batteries or banks charged rather than to power equipment directly. This arrangement allows the panels to store generated power whenever produced, while providing a steady source of power to a piece of equipment even when the panel is producing no power.

While they do require an initial outlay, solar panels can easily pay for themselves in money saved and independence gained over their service life. They’re noiseless, have no moving parts, and they provide free electricity for years with minimal maintenance. Solar panels also have the benefit of being modular, letting you start small and add more as your power requirements increase.

The benefits of solar

Almost any boat can benefit from solar power. Whether at a slip, mooring, or on a trailer, boats can keep their batteries topped off without the need for external power. You can also use solar power to supplement or even replace other onboard charging sources, reducing or eliminating the need to run engines or generators to keep batteries topped off (a wasteful practice that burns fuel while wearing down the costliest pieces of equipment onboard).

While underway, it’s a plus to be able to recharge a dead battery in an emergency – say, to operate a VHF radio or navigation gear. While dockside, solar panels keep batteries charged and vital systems (such as bilge pumps) up and running without the need for shore power.

Just about any boat can benefit from solar power, whether it’s to keep batteries topped off or supplement other onboard charging sources.

Mount solar panels where they are exposed to maximum sunlight but do not interfere with operation of the vessel. 

Bottom: Something as simple as the shadow of a line or shroud can reduce or halt output.

Types of panels

Solar panels contain photovoltaic cells – small silicon semiconductor devices that convert sunlight into electricity. Each cell generates between 0.45 and 0.5 volts, depending on exposure to direct sunlight. Cell size determines amperage, with a 3-inch cell producing roughly 2 amps, a 4-inch cell a little over 3 amps, and a 5-inch cell around 5 amps.

Construction-wise, the three main types of solar panels are monocrystalline, polycrystalline, and amorphous (or thin-film) technology.

Monocrystalline panels have been around the longest and remain the most popular. The panels are constructed of thin slices of crystal silicon (each cell is cut from a single crystal) housed in a rigid, aluminum frame and covered with tempered shatterproof glass. The panels have a uniform black, blue, or gray appearance and are generally quite rugged, although they can be cracked or broken if subjected to extreme abuse.

Monocrystalline panels have the longest service life of the three types. With a conversion efficiency of around 17%, they’re also the most efficient and have the highest electrical output per area, but they are also the most expensive.

Polycrystalline cells are sliced from a cast silicon block and have a shattered glass appearance. Built in much the same way as monocrystalline panels, they’re rectangular, giving the panel itself a tiled look. Their life span is similar to monocrystalline panels, and while their conversion efficiency is lower (by 14%), they’re also a bit less expensive.

Amorphous panels are made by placing a thin film of active silicon on a solid or flexible backing (such as stainless or aluminum sheeting) depending on whether the panel is to be rigid-framed and glass-fronted or flexible. Flexible amorphous panels, in which cells are sandwiched between rubber and polymer covers, are light and tough enough that you can walk on them and, in some cases, even roll them up for storage.

This type of solar panel is also better if shade is an issue. With crystalline panels, even the thin shadow of a rope or shroud across one cell can reduce or halt output of an entire module. Amorphous panels have “bypass” diodes that essentially turn off shaded cells and provide a current path around them. Some monocrystalline panels also have bypass diodes, but this feature comes at an increase in cost.

Amorphous panels are the least expensive of the three types, but their efficiency is also lower – around 8%, or roughly half that of a monocrystalline type. This lower output is somewhat mitigated in newer panels, however, which use three-layer construction. Each layer absorbs different colors of the solar spectrum, so the panel will deliver more power longer each day and during lower light conditions than the other two types.

The charge controller should be mounted below decks and as close to the battery as possible. 

Follow manufacturer instructions for wire connections.

Planning the system

While factors such as cost, mounting options, and output are important, a successful installation depends on knowing what you want the system to accomplish. Is the goal to float-charge a single battery or supplement an overall vessel energy plan? Answering these questions up front will help determine the type, size, and number of panels required.

To understand the process better, let’s walk through the basic steps to determine power requirements and installation considerations for a single solar panel installation. While the example itself is simple, the steps are the same used to plan more complicated installations.

For our example, the goal is to install a solar panel to provide charging for a single 12-volt, 100-amp-hour wet-cell battery used to power an automatic anchor light on a moored vessel.

The first step is compiling a daily power consumption estimate to determine how much solar power is needed.

The daily self-discharge rate for a wet-cell battery is roughly 1%, meaning our 100-amp-hour battery requires one amp every 24 hours just to maintain the status quo. The anchor light draws 50 milliamps per hour of operation, and we’ll assume it operates 10 hours each night. Multiplying current draw (50 milliamps) by hours of daily operation (10) generates a daily energy expense of 500 milliamps or .5 amps.

This means our solar panel must meet a minimum daily energy tab of 1.5 amps – one amp of battery self-discharge rate plus .5 amps of power draw for the anchor light.

Next up is figuring out panel size and the best mounting location. For our example, let’s assume the panel will be a horizontal, fixed-mount installation. A 10-watt horizontally mounted panel should generate between 3- and 5-amp hours per day.

We’ll need at least 13 volts to fully charge our 12-volt battery. As most solar cells generate at least 0.45 volts, you’ll want a panel with a minimum of 33 cells, which should provide around 14.85 volts.

Keep in mind that’s the minimum needed, which may not be enough once you factor in a few cloudy days. Most panels are designed to generate between 15 and 20 volts to overcome problems like cloudy days or inherent electrical resistance within the panel or installation components. While this higher voltage lets you make up for less electrically productive days, it also means you’ll want to install a solar charge controller (voltage regulator) to avoid battery damage due to overcharging.

Attempts to plan a system that tries to use the output of the panel and capacity of the battery to prevent overcharging (and avoid the installation of a charge controller) is false economy and should not be done. The system will never meet its full output potential and, worst case, can damage the battery due to overcharging.

A word on ‘charge controller confliction’

If your vessel has multiple charging sources, such as solar panels and a wind turbine, a crucial but often overlooked consideration is “charge controller confliction.” In short, this is an issue where the charge controller for your solar panel and the charge controller for your wind turbine are internally adjusted to the same maximum charge voltage set point. This means they are constantly fighting each other to be the dominant power source, which results in diminished overall charging output and performance. An in-depth article on this issue can be found at ­missioncriticalenergy.com (in the website footer, click “Superwind Turbine Manuals & Technical Bulletins.” Under the header “Charge Controllers,” select the document “Resolving Charge Controller Confliction”).

While this article addresses charge controller confliction at remote, off-grid sites, the information provided is also applicable to vessel installations. — F.L.

Location and mounting

Solar panels should be mounted in a location where they are exposed to the maximum amount of sunlight but do not interfere with operation of the vessel or the movement of passengers and crew. Solar panels will typically be either fixed or mounted on some type of movable bracket that allows you to actively point the panel toward the sun for maximum output. Both methods have their pros and cons. Fixed panels (which are normally mounted horizontally) don’t produce as much power as a panel that can be adjusted to face the sun. The downside is that adjustable panels must be aimed throughout the day to maximize their output.

Use good quality, marine-grade heat shrink connectors (top) and liquid electrical tape (right) to create airtight, waterproof seals and reduce corrosion.

Installation

After choosing and mounting your panel, it’s time to connect it. The first thing you need to determine is the size (gauge) of the wiring to be used. Multiply your panel’s rated amp output by 1.25 (which adds a 25% safety factor). Then measure the length of the entire wiring run, panel to battery, and multiply by 2. Once you have these two numbers, refer to the American Boat and Yacht Council’s (ABYC) 3% voltage-drop table for wire size. Ancor Products offers a handy wire calculator on its website ( ancorproducts.com/resources ).

Always use good quality marine grade connectors  and tinned, multi-stranded copper wire with vinyl sheathing. The wire will run from the solar panel to the charge controller first, then to the battery. Try to keep the wire run as short as possible, and if it transits an external deck or cabin house (it likely will), be sure to use an appropriate weatherproof deck fitting.

The charge controller should be mounted below decks and as close to the battery as possible. You’ll always want to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for connections, but in a typical installation you’ll connect the solar panel’s positive (red wire) lead to the charge controller’s positive input wire or terminal and the negative (black wire) lead to the charge controller’s negative input wire or terminal.

Next, connect the charge controller’s negative output to the battery negative terminal and the controller’s positive output to the battery’s positive terminal via an appropriately sized in-line fuse (or circuit breaker). ABYC recommends these be installed within 7 inches of connection to the battery or other point in the DC system. To reiterate, the installation of the charge controller can vary among models, so follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Finally, ensure all connections are waterproof and secure any loose wire runs with wire ties and cable clamps for a neat installation. Then get ready to lean back and soak up some free sun.

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Frank Lanier

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Capt. Frank Lanier is a SAMS-accredited marine surveyor with over 40 years of experience in the marine and diving industries. He’s an author, public speaker, and multiple award-winning journalist whose articles on boat maintenance, repair, and seamanship appear regularly in numerous marine publications worldwide. Contact him via his YouTube channel “Everything Boats with Capt. Frank Lanier” or at captfklanier.com.

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Sailboat Solar Panel Installation

Table of Contents

Using solar panels for maritime purposes, installing solar panels on a boat, positioning your solar panel, wiring your solar panels, cabling and connector considerations, choosing a charge controller, maintenance and general upkeep, short on time here’s the article summary.

The article discusses the growing trend of installing solar panels on boats, highlighting their effectiveness, affordability, and environmental friendliness. It provides a guide for installing solar panels on a boat, including factors to consider, such as panel size and type, positioning, mounting locations, wiring, choosing a charge controller, and maintenance.

Solar panels on boats are beneficial for powering various systems like rotors, autopilots, navigation lights, and radio systems, reducing the risk of battery failure in remote areas. The article recommends using flexible or semi-flexible panels for certain installations due to their adaptability to curved surfaces. Proper wiring, using weatherproof materials, and choosing the right charge controller (PWM or MPPT) are crucial for optimal performance. Regular maintenance, including cleaning and monitoring power output, is essential for longevity and efficiency. The article aims to simplify the installation process and ensure that boat owners can harness solar power effectively for their maritime adventures.

Introduction

In recent years, the concept of solar energy has taken the world and, specifically, the maritime industry by storm.

Installing solar panels on a boat has become common practice within the maritime community as solar panels charge your boat’s batteries in little to no time thanks to the amount of sunlight they enjoy. Not only are solar panels both effective and affordable, but they’re an environmentally-friendly alternative source of power.

In this article, we guide you through the process of installing solar panels on a boat, providing you with a checklist of all the factors you’ll need to consider to ensure that your solar panels have the highest power output possible

Before we dive into the intricacies of the installation process, it’s important that we take a quick look at why you should install solar panels on your sailboat as well as how to determine which solar panels to use.

Why is Solar Power Useful on a Sailboat?

When it comes to sailboats, a common misconception is that the only energy that sailboats use is the kinetic energy of the wind to move it forward. 

This is obviously not true because there are a number of systems on a sailboat that all require battery power. Some of the things requiring electrical power include:

• The rotor for when there is no wind to propel the sailboat forward
• The autopilot feature on newer, more advanced sailboats
• Navigation lights
• Radio systems

For this reason, most sailboats also have built-in batteries to power all these systems. It is here where the usefulness of solar power comes into play.

By installing solar panels on your sailboat and connecting them to this battery, you’ll be able to recharge the battery of your sailboat using sunlight on a daily basis. This means that you’ll never run the risk of ending up in the middle of the ocean and at the will of a flat battery.

Choosing the Right Solar Panel

As you’ll see further below, choosing the correct solar panel for your purposes will be determined by a number of factors.

You’ll determine the size of the solar panels you used based on the amount of space you have available to you for the purposes of solar panel installation. The size of your sailboat is obviously a major determining factor in this regard.

Looking at the power requirements of your specific sailboat will also help you determine how many and which type of solar panel will be the best to satisfy the power needs of your sailboat.

Finally, the specific form of solar panel you’ll need to use will depend on where you intend to install your solar panels. As we’ll discuss later, on some occasions rigid solar panels will be the best panels for the job, but on other occasions you might find that flexible or semi-flexible solar panels are required for the specific installation site.

When it comes to addressing how to install solar panels off-grid on your sailboat, you’ll find that the process is one that has the potential to be rather lengthy and, sometimes even, tricky. For this reason we’ve put together a set of guidelines that should help you navigate these turbulent waters.

The first hurdle you’ll encounter when starting the process of mounting a solar panel on your sailboat is finding somewhere to mount it. This is because the decks of sailboats are not necessarily the most ideal of surfaces upon which to install your solar panels.

That being said, there are a number of commonly used areas that we would recommend you look at as your points of departure.

Arches or Gantry Aft

The first place we recommend positioning your solar panel is on one of the arches of your sailboat or on the gantry aft.

The effectiveness of this position is usually enhanced by the additional construction of an adjuster of sorts that’ll allow you to position your panel so that it receives as much sunlight as possible.

Cockpit Sprayhood or Bimini

This is generally regarded as the second most popular location in which to mount your solar panel.

For this location, we recommend using a flexible or, at least, semi-flexible solar panel instead of a rigid one.

The flexible solar panel we recommend in this regard is the Inergy Linx 100 Watt Flexible Solar Panel which is just one of the multiple solar panels of this type that we have in our immaculate inventory here at Shop Solar Kits.

The third alternative to the above two locations would be mounting your solar panel on the lifelines running alongside the cockpit. Here you would need to make use of the available installation kits that will allow you to turn and angle the panels manually to a limited extent.

Finally, the deck is also a commonly used location for the installation and mounting of solar panels on a sailboat.

Here you will need to consider the size and gradient of your deck. If you have a curved deck, you will once again need to make use of flexible or semi-flexible solar panels instead of rigid glass-coated panels. 

This link in the installation chain follows the above considerations that need to be made prior to mounting your solar panels.

When considering the location where your solar panels are going to be installed, you not only need to choose a location that offers the most available space for solar panel installation, but that is also the most practical for solar panel installation.

The two considerations that you need to bear in mind in this regard are shading and overheating

Shading                                              

One of the most important principles to remember when deciding on a surface on which to install your solar panels is to stay away from shade.

You want to position your solar panel in a position that receives as much sunlight as possible as this will in turn guarantee that your solar panel produces as much power as possible. That being said, sometimes the shade that is thrown by the boom, mast, or sails simply can’t be avoided.

For this reason, you want to ensure that you purchase high-quality solar panels. Modern solar panels are much less sensitive to partial shading as each of their solar cells is isolated from one another by one-way electric valves.

Therefore, if a couple of cells are shaded, they won’t have a negative impact on all the other non-shaded cells in the rest of the panel.

Overheating

If your solar panel overheats, it’ll take a massive knock to its overall power output.

To prevent this you’ll need to ensure that your solar panel has sufficient air circulation behind it, especially if it's installed on a flat surface like the deck.

With regards to these latter flat installations, you want to mount the panel to the deck with large dabs of mastic adhesive to promote better air circulation around the solar panel.

This step in the installation process addresses one of the most frequently asked questions by people installing solar panels on their boat for the first time: should they be wired in series or in parallel.

The answer to this question ties in with the issue of shading that was dealt with above. If shading is one of your largest concerns, you’ll want to have your solar panels wired in parallel and not in series.

You might remember from your early high school science classes that if the light bulbs in an electric circuit are connected in series, if one of the bulbs fails, all the other bulbs connected in series will also fail.

The same principle applies to solar panels. Firstly, if your solar panels are connected to each other in series, if one solar panel suffers any damage and becomes defective as a result, the rest of your solar panels will be affected negatively as well.

Similarly, if one of your solar panels is in the shade for more time than the rest of your solar panels, all of your solar panels’ productivity will be negatively impacted too.

However, if your solar panels are connected in parallel to each other, the malfunctioning or shading of one panel will not affect the overall power output of your other solar panels.

In this regard, there are two factors that you will need to consider: cable thickness, and cable and connector durability.

If you do not use the corrected sized wiring for your system, you’ll experience a significant reduction in the overall power output of your solar power system .

The thickness of the wire you’ll need to use is determined by how you want to wire your solar panels – in series or in parallel. If the former is your setup of choice we recommend using a thinner-gauge wire due to the fact that here, the voltage of the circuit is additive whilst the current flowing through it remains constant.

Conversely, if you want to wire your solar panels in parallel you’ll need to use a thicker-gauge wire due to the fact that here, the current flowing through the circuit is additive whereas the voltage remains constant.

This process is, however, slightly more complicated if you plan on mixing different wattage solar panels in your system. For this reason, it is important that you thoroughly calculate the voltage and current flowing through your circuit to ensure that you employ the correct use of wiring for your circuit.

Upon deciding on the thickness of the wiring you’ll be using, ensure that you use wiring that is weatherproof (meaning that it is exterior-grade wiring that is double insulated and UV-proof) as well as weatherproof connectors.

Failing to do this, you run a much higher risk of your circuit malfunctioning due to water or weather damage. By ensuring that your cables are highly-durable you’ll save yourself a lot of time, money, and effort in the long run.

Choosing the right charge controller for the size of the system you want to install is also an essential consideration in the process of installing solar panels on your sailboat.

The purpose of a charge controller is essentially just to disconnect your solar panels from your battery when it is fully charged. It’s also the solution to the dilemma of how to charge multiple batteries with one solar panel because, as its primary purpose is the managing of the charging of batteries.

That being said, we don’t recommend a setup using two charge controllers and one solar panel . This is because, to put it simply, it’s just unnecessary. 

One charge controller is more than sufficient to monitor the functioning of a single solar panel. The same isn’t true for multiple solar panels, however, where more than one charge controller could be useful where many solar panels are used.

There are generally two types of charge controllers for you to choose from: PWM (pulse width modulation) controllers; and MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) controllers.

PWM Controllers

These are a fairly simple and inexpensive alternative to the more expensive and complicated MPPT controllers.

That being said, although these are much cheaper than MPPT controllers, they are also considered to be rather primitive in comparison with MPPT controllers.

MPPT Controllers

These controllers are much more advanced than PWM controllers. 

They allow you to achieve the optimum power output of your solar system by constantly tracking and logging the troughs and peaks of your system’s productivity and adapting the output of the system to the batteries you’re using and the condition they’re in.

This is the charge controller we would recommend because it allows you to harvest up to 25% more usable power from your solar power system.

A good charge controller is an invaluable piece of equipment for your solar panel setup. It’s crucial for so much more than just a boat. You also need a charge controller if you want to install solar panels on your van or RV.

It’s common knowledge that the installation of solar panels can be quite a pricey affair. It is for this reason that solar pane enthusiasts are constantly talking about the “break-even point”. This is the point at which your solar panel has saved you so much money that it has effectively paid itself off.

The average solar panel tends to reach this point within 5-7 years. However, this point can be significantly delayed and postponed if your solar panel isn’t properly maintained.

Maintenance includes the regular cleaning of your solar panel and carefully inspecting them for any signs of damage.

It is also essential that you monitor the monthly or even weekly power output of your solar power system. We recommend addressing any discrepancies in this regard as soon as possible after picking up on them.

Never hesitate to consult your solar panel provider with any queries regarding the performance of your solar panel and never hesitate to contact our experienced employees here at Shop Solar Kits for tips or guidance regarding your solar power needs.

Overall, we hope that this article has made the sailboat solar panel installation process seem a lot less intimidating and that our guidelines serve to steer you in the right direction.

By following these steps and paying close attention to the considerations we’ve covered today, you’ll definitely be able to sail through these turbulent waters with ease and have your system running to its fullest potential within no time.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Sailing with solar power: A practical guide

• Duncan Kent
• November 13, 2020

The latest solar technology makes self-sufficient cruising much more achievable. Duncan Kent gives the lowdown on everything you need to get your boat sorted

SOLAR POWER ON BOARD

Solar power is fast becoming the most popular and economic method of keeping the batteries charged on a boat.

Particularly now that the efficiency of photovoltaic (PV) panels, charge controllers and batteries is improving every day.

Furthermore, the latest technology in regulators and charge controllers has brought about a noticeable increase in useable power output, so the problems of shading and non-alignment can be compensated for more easily.

Not only has PV equipment become more efficient and cost-effective, but many of the modern devices we want to use on a boat have become less power hungry.

This means it is now far easier to provide your entire yacht’s electrical needs, both 220Vac and 12/24Vdc, from natural energy resources – particularly solar power, even if you are planning on a fully electric boat .

Thinking carefully about how much power you need and how much your boat can accommodate is key to planning a solar array. Credit: Graham Snook

WHAT DO YOU NEED?

For instance, a boat with two new, good quality, deep-cycle house batteries of 100Ah each would supply 100Ah of energy to consume between charges, if you only use the recommended 50% of available charge between each charge cycle to protect the batteries.

From this you could run:

• a modern 12Vdc fridge (approx. 1.5Ah, or 36Ah over 24hrs),
• all LED lighting (say 20Ah per day),
• various small device chargers (20Ah)
• and a number of other items such as water pumps, TVs and stereos (25Ah/day)
• Totalling around 100Ah.
• For this you’d need 400W of solar capacity.

Of course, if you like to run a lot of AC devices off-grid such as hair dryers, microwaves, toasters and the like, then you’re going to need a DC/ AC inverter, which will take you to another level in power consumption terms.

But even then, with careful planning, solar could provide a large portion of the power you need before resorting to engine charging or a generator.

THE AVAILABLE SPACE

In practical terms, a modern 40ft monohull would have the space for around 1,200W of PV panels (cockpit arch, sprayhood top, deck), maybe 1,500W with the addition of a few portable panels for use at anchor.

The 1,200W of fixed position solar array could produce around 360Ah on a sunny summer’s day (zero shading) or more likely 250Ah on the average UK summer’s day.

So that’s enough for your 100Ah general DC consumption plus another 150Ah of AC consumption via the inverter.

Of course, to do this you’ll most likely need to increase your battery capacity to around 400-500Ah for maximum flexibility (you’ll need to store as much as possible during daylight hours), a typical figure for a 40-50ft offshore cruising yacht these days.

Get your solar charging right and you may never need to hook up to shore power

Typical daily inverter loads for a cruising yacht off grid might be:

• induction cooking plate (20min) 60Ah
• microwave (15min) 30Ah
• coffee maker (20mins) 25Ah
• hair dryer (5min) 15Ah
• laptop charger (2h) 10Ah
• or around 140Ah in total.

The trick is to monitor the batteries’ state of charge (SOC) at all times and vary your use of the inverter to suit.

For example, you might want to cook supper mid-afternoon, when solar is in abundance, and then reheat it in the evening when you want to eat it.

In some cases, when you’re cruising in warm climates such as the Med, you might end up with excess charge from your solar panels .

In this situation, many long-term cruisers devise a method of ‘dumping’ the extra energy by heating water for showers.

Do bear in mind if you’re planning to live aboard full time , then it’ll be a whole different story on cloudy days and during the winter, when inverter use might need to be knocked on the head entirely.

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POWER DISCREPANCIES

There’s often confusion as to how much power you can harvest from a solar installation.

A PV panel is nearly always advertised stating its theoretical peak output power (Pw).

But in reality, on a yacht where there are limited areas in which to mount them, they will more likely produce a maximum of 60% of their peak output if mounted horizontally, increasing to 80% if tilted towards the sun and regularly adjusted.

The latter is rarely achievable on a boat, however, as even at anchor it can swing through an arc of 180° in wind or tidal shifts .

Flexible panels can be mounted on sprayhoods or awnings to add power when it’s needed at anchor or in harbour

INSTALLATION

Having trawled through hundreds of ‘deals’ to get the best price on the most efficient panels you can afford you now need to know how to install them to best fulfill your energy generation needs.

The output, even from the highest quality photo-voltaic array, will only be as good as the installation itself.

So following our guidelines should ensure you extract every last drop of energy from your investment.

PANEL MOUNTING

Sailing boats are not the ideal structure on which to mount wide, flat PV panels.

So before you go ahead and purchase what looks like the biggest and best, take a few minutes to decide on exactly where you can mount them, as this will affect what size and type of panels you should buy.

In many cases the first choice would be on an arch, davits or gantry aft, especially if you already have, or plan to fit one.

Dinghy davits, particularly on multihulls, can support a huge solar capacity

These allow a solid metal framework to be constructed that will be strong enough to take the heavier, more productive rigid PV panels.

You can also build in some form of adjuster to the framework that will allow the panels to be orientated towards the sun for the best performance.

With luck (or careful planning) a gantry will also keep them aft of the boom, thereby eliminating loss of output caused by boom shading.

The next most popular position for mounting the panels is on a cockpit sprayhood or bimini, although this will often mean using the flexible or semi-flexible panels, which are generally less efficient than the rigid ones for the same area.

ELEVATED MOUNTING

Alternatively, there are kits available for mounting panels onto lifelines, which can allow their elevation to be manually adjusted to a certain degree.

Pole-mounted panels can be used for maximum adjustability

Finally, panels can be fitted directly onto the deck by either gluing them down using mastic or attaching them onto a rigid support frame.

Once again you will probably need to use semi-flexible panels – especially if the deck surface is curved.

Rigid, glass-coated panels will obviously not be suitable for deck mounting in an area that is frequently walked over.

Don’t be tempted to drill through the panels, even along the edges, as this will invalidate the warranty and possibly damage the panel.

With solid panels, the ability to adjust the angle can add significantly to output

It might seem obvious, but the key to an efficient system is to avoid shading wherever possible.

It’s no good fitting expensive, high-efficiency PVs right under the boom as they’ll perform little better than the cheaper types.

Saying that, in good quality panels each cell will be isolated from the next by a series of diodes (one-way electrical valves), so that if one cell is shaded at least it won’t drag down the other cells within the same panel.

Older panels often didn’t have these, so the slightest partial shading caused the output of the entire panel to cease.

OVERHEATING

Another important factor that is often ignored when installing the panels is that of overheating.

If a PV panel gets too hot, which is quite likely if mounted directly onto a flat surface without an air gap behind, its output will drop quite noticeably.

To allow for some air circulation behind the panels it’s best to apply mastic adhesive in numerous large dabs.

This is best achieved by placing wooden spacer strips between the dabs until the mastic has completely cured, after which the spacers can be removed.

You might need some form of trim around one or more of the outside edges, though, if they are positioned where sheets and other lines might get caught under them.

Raising the panels up will also help water to drain off and thereby helping to avoid possible delamination from sitting in water for too long.

CHARGE CONTROL

A PV module cannot supply an electrical device directly due to the changeability of the sunlight, which in turns varies the current it can produce.

Therefore, it has to be connected to a battery, which stores and smooths its output.

Whatever the size of your solar array you will need to fit a regulator, or charge controller as they are now more commonly known, to the system in order to control the output and to help extract as much power from the panels as possible.

There are two types of PV charge controller.

The older designs, called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) types, were fairly basic voltage regulators and simply output volts at just above battery level.

The latest controllers use Multi Power Point Tracking (MPPT) technology and can accept much higher input voltages (up to 240Vdc).

MPPT controllers can be up to 30% more efficient as they use the peak output of the panels to charge the batteries, even compensating for partial shading.

BEWARE FAKE GEAR

If you buy online do be careful to ensure you’re getting what you pay for.

There are a huge number of fake MPPTs out there, which are simply the much cheaper PWM dressed up with fake labels.

It’s hard to tell which is which, but the old adage of ‘if it looks too good to be true, it usually is’ makes good sense.

MPPT controllers are usually bigger and heavier than PWMs, but if in doubt call or email the supplier to discuss the pros and cons of their kit before buying.

If they’re not happy to chat and advise you then I would steer clear of their gear.

Some good MPPTs are made in China, but unless they have a UK supplier, I wouldn’t bother with them as you’ll have no follow-up advice.

To calculate what size controller you need simply divide the panel’s peak power in Watts (Wp) by the battery voltage, which will give you the maximum current (Amps) they could theoretically supply.

For example 240W/12V = 20A. Although it’s unlikely you’ll ever get near the peak output from any PV panel, it’s best to go for the maximum possible.

Induction cooking is now a reality on board, even without shore power

PV panels come with a short length of cable, usually around 1m long.

Some are supplied with MC4 connectors already attached but most only provide bare wires.

The latter can be easily extended using proper waterproof connections but thought must be given as to the current rating and voltage drop (usually max 3%) for the size of cable you intend to use.

If in doubt, bigger is better!

Panels can sometimes be ordered with the wiring on the back so that the cable can go straight below deck through a hole under the panel.

You may need to fit extra battery capacity if you want to run an inverter from solar charging

SERIES OR PARALLEL?

A commonly asked question is ‘should I wire my PV panels in series or in parallel?’

The simple answer is, if there’s any danger of frequent shading to one or more of the panels then install them in parallel.

If wired in series the shading of a single panel will drag down the output from all of the others in the same series.

PARALLEL IS PREFERRED

Most commonly, multiple panels are wired together in parallel to a single charge controller, with diodes protecting each panel from discharging the others should one become partially shaded.

With the advent of MPPT controllers, however, there can sometimes be a benefit to wiring two or more identical panels into a series bank, thereby presenting a higher voltage to the controller.

It’s worth noting that, like batteries, wiring PV panels in series increases the voltage only – the current capacity of the array remains the same as for a single panel.

‘Where’s the benefit of wiring them in series then?’ you might ask.

Well, the higher the voltage fed into the MPPT, the more consistent it will be with its output, which could, in some cases, prove more efficient than a parallel installation with PWM controllers.

It’s also likely to be necessary if you have a 24V domestic system.

SERIES WIRING

Series wiring is usually only done when the cable runs are long, as it helps negate the voltage drop caused by the resistance of the cable.

While a decent controller will have no problem handling the output from four or even five panels wired in series, it is often inappropriate for sailing yachts as shading just one of the panels will reduce the output of the entire series array.

If you need to do so in order to reduce cable runs then it’s best to split the panels between each side of the boat – a series bank on each side.

If you do this, then you would ideally fit a separate controller to each series PV bank and then connect their outputs together in parallel to the battery bank.

Note, however, that panels wired in series must all be the same types with an equal number of cells per panel.

Furthermore, the charge controller needs to be sized for the total of all panel voltages added together and the current rating of one individual panel.

Differently rated panels can be connected together in parallel but only if each panel has its own controller.

The outputs of the individual controllers can then be joined together to go to the battery bank.

BATTERY BANK QUESTION

Another frequently asked question is ‘Can I connect another charging source to the battery bank while the solar array is charging?’

The answer is yes.

Any decent PV controller will be protected against feedback from other charging sources.

Think carefully about where shade from mast, boom and rigging will fall. Credit: Graham Snook Photography

CABLE SIZE AND CONNECTORS

A frequent cause of reduced output from PV arrays is wiring that is too small.

The resistance of a wire conductor increases in direct proportion to its cross-sectional area, so go as big as is practicable for the least cable loss.

Each panel should be supplied with the correctly sized cables for its own maximum output.

But if you’re combining panels, either in parallel or in series, you will clearly need to rate the single feed cable to suit the maximum current available at theoretical peak solar output and to minimise voltage drop.

Likewise, the cable from the controller to the batteries should be sized to suit the controller’s maximum output current and protected with a fuse.

For outside it’s important to use exterior grade cable, which is double- insulated and UV-proof.

WEATHERPROOF CONNECTORS

And wherever possible use compatible weatherproof connectors (usually MC4) to those found on the panels rather than cutting off the plugs and hard-wiring them.

Field- assembly MC4 plugs are available, so you don’t have to drill large holes in the decks or bulkheads when feeding the cables through.

When joining more than one panel together try to use the approved multiway connectors; not only do they keep the wiring neat and tidy, but they also offer a greater contact area than budget terminal blocks.

If you have to use screw-type connectors make sure to fit proper ferrules to the wire first to avoid any stray wires in the multistrand shorting across the terminals.

When feeding a cable from above to below deck, try to go through an upright bulkhead where possible to minimise ‘pooling’ of water around the access hole.

Also, use a proper watertight deck seal that matches the cable you’re using.

If drilling through a cored deck you need to drill a larger hole first, fill it with epoxy resin and then drill the required size hole through the epoxy to ensure no water gets into the deck core.

Ideally, the charge controller should be mounted no further than 2m from the battery bank.

If you need to go further, you’ll require larger cabling to reduce the voltage drop.

A generous solar array will keep you self- sufficient indefinitely. Credit: Graham Snook Photography

CONTROLLER LOAD TERMINALS

There is often confusion over the ‘load’ output of a charge controller (often depicted by a light bulb) and what can safely be connected to these terminals.

Rarely explained in the manual, the load terminals should be pretty much ignored in a marine installation as the output on these terminals is usually very limited (10A max).

Some attach an LED light to them to indicate the controller is operating, but all your usual electrical loads should remain connected to the batteries with the battery terminals on the controller connected directly to that battery bank via a fuse.

It is possible, though, to control a high-current switching relay in certain conditions.

Parallel installation is more resilient to shading, but a series installation will increase peak charging outputs. A combination of the two offers some of the benefit of both

CIRCUIT MONITORING

Unlike most cheap PWMs, the majority of good quality MPPT charge controllers come with an alphanumeric LCD screen to let you know what is going on.

This can either be a remote display or simply one on the front of the box.

It’s obviously a lot better to have a proper numerical display than to rely on a few flashing LEDs to tell you when something’s not right.

So if your chosen controller doesn’t have one be sure to fit a battery monitor (the shunt type) into your solar circuit between the controller and the batteries.

It doesn’t have to be a very ‘smart’ monitor, just one that can display the voltage and current being supplied by the panels.

For smartphone addicts there are several wifi apps that will do the job remotely on your phone or tablet.

DEVICE PROTECTION

All good quality PV panels feature built-in diode protection between each cell to prevent a shaded cell from dragging down the productive ones.

In addition, there will be internal blocking diodes on the final output to protect the panel from polarity reversal and to ensure that the batteries can’t discharge back into the panel during the night.

The latter can be added externally, the former can’t, so check before you buy.

A fuse, rated just above the maximum current available, should be fitted between each panel and the charge controller.

Another fuse should then be installed between the charge controller’s output and the batteries.

In the case of multiple arrays, this second fuse will be rated higher than the individual panel fuses and should match the maximum current rating of the cable.

With this protection installed other charging devices can be connected in parallel at the battery, meaning the solar can be left connected even when you are hooked up to shore power and the battery charger is operating.

In some circumstances, however, this arrangement can affect the sensing of the battery by the charger, causing it to fall back into float mode.

If this becomes apparent it can be overcome by installing a manual/auto switch to disconnect the solar array when on shore power.

Check the flex of the solar panel is sufficient for your deck

EXCESS POWER DUMPING

A solar charge controller works by disconnecting the supply from the PV panels when the batteries are fully charged.

But for some full-time liveaboards in sunny climates that can be considered a waste, when the excess power could be put to good use – heating water, say.

This is commonly done using an inverter to supply AC power to the heating element.

Alternatively, you can now buy a 12Vdc element for your calorifier (hot water tank) and supply this directly from your battery bank.

Both of these methods would require a voltage sensitive relay (VSR) to disconnect the element should the battery voltage drop below a pre-set level.

Don’t expect boiling hot water, as there will probably only be enough spare power to take the chill off it before your battery bank reaches its lower threshold voltage.

A 600W/12V element will draw some 50A, from the batteries, whereas a 1kW AC element run through an inverter will need close to 100A.

A small, semi-flexible panel will be sufficient for keeping batteries trickle charged, but not for heavy use

RIGID, FLEXIBLE, OR SEMI FLEXIBLE?

Despite massive recent improvements in semi-flexible panels in recent years, the solid glass panels still offer a higher power density.

That said, they are heavier, more awkward to mount and can’t be walked on, so unless you have a dedicated gantry aft, you’re better off choosing the more rugged semi-flexibles.

Modules incorporating monocrystalline cells also have a better output than those with polycrystalline cells (that’s cells made from a single slice of silicon as opposed to layers of smaller pieces).

Output voltage also depends on the number of cells on the panel.

In the past this has commonly been 32, but now some 36 and even 40 cell panels are available.

That said, they’re larger, of course, so an array of interconnected smaller panels might be a better solution.

Module efficiency is now more often around the 20% mark, as opposed to 12-15% for older models and semi- flexible (up to 20° bend) are usually better than flexible (up to 180° bend).

A rigid panel is more efficient, but less robust

There are a huge number of panels on the market, but many use the same cells.

Sunpower Maxeon cells are exceptionally good, as are the Panasonic HIT range and LG, but they are pricey.

If the maker is offering a 25-year guarantee instead of a 3-5 year one, you can be pretty confident they’re good.

When it comes to charge controllers it’s definitely worth paying a little more for a decent MPPT.

A cheap PWM might be okay just to keep a small starter battery charged with a 30W panel, but the MPPT will give you much more when it comes to heavy service.

Victron are probably top of the range, while cheaper brands like MakeSkyBlue and EPever are also good value – but treat imports of unclear origin with care.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Duncan Kent has been evaluating and reviewing yachts and marine equipment for the past 30 years

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• Boat Maintenance

Securing Your Solar Panels

The simplest mounting method for rigid panels is directly to the deck using z-brackets, studs, or glue-on brackets. If mounting to frame above davits or a Bimini top run -inch x 2-inch aluminum bar crosswise under the panel, attach it to the factory-supplied mounting holes, and then attach with rail clamps or brackets (photos 1 & 2) .

Flat panels. Use adjustable studs or spacers to avoid any torque on the panel (photo 3).

Correct mounting points. Frames are factory drilled for proper mounting points that will distribute the load when the boat moves vigorously. If holes are placed incorrectly excessive bending force can result. Alternatively, a supportive aluminum sub-frame can be added to provide additional support. This is particularly advisable for lower cost panels with light-weight frames (photo 4).

Torsional rigidity. Consider a picture frame; with the glass in place it seems reasonably firm, but remove the glass and most are as floppy as spaghetti. Because the panels are sealed to the glass, you don’t want to twist this. You must provide a frame that does not twist as the boat sails.

Frame must be stand-alone. Panel frames are not intended to hold the sides together. We cringe when we see panels with legs attached that apply spreading forces. Of course they delaminate. Bracket-only mounting is only acceptable to a rigid surface, such as a deck or hard top.

Guards. The glass must be protected from impact. However, the guards must not block any sunlight; even a few thin bars can reduce output by 20 percent or more.

Air gap. Panel output is reduced by high temperatures, so an air gap of a least 1-inch should be maintained. A junction box on the underside may also require clearance.

Removable. Though we have never had a failure, Murphy is watching. When we went to add a third panel, easy access to the mounting nuts was a plus.

Railing mounts. While not a favorite, as they must be retracted while docking and in heavy weather, they offer a shade-free setting and minimal weight.

Semi-Flexible panels

The instructions clearly state that regular flexing, even very minor, will result in reduced life of these panels. If mounted on a bimini or dodger the fabric must be firmly tensioned so that there is no pumping in the wind. Even top brands have been ruined by cloth flexing. The dodger must not twist. The panel may not be bent under a snow load.

No ridges. They may not cross ridges on the deck or be placed across a Bimini support bow. They are not suitable for mounting on arches unless continuous support is provided.

Foot traffic. Although some panels can be walked on, this does not mean they should be located where more than rare traffic is possible. Additionally, the instructions specifically state that panels subject to foot traffic be walked on must be firmly bonded to a rigid surface. The panel may not flex under foot in the most minute degree.

Velcro. Semi-rigid panels can mount directly to the Bimini using pockets closed using Velcro flaps, but this can shorten life with flexing. Flexible panels are even more vulnerable here (photo 5).

Screws. Seal all holes against water intrusion by over drilling and epoxy-sealing the core.

Bonding. Use a medium to high strength sealant on the perimeter, such as 3M 4200UV, Sika 295, or Locktite PL S40. Use a weaker bedding compound, such as Sudbury Elastomeric Sealant or Boatlife Caulk for the interior. Continuous bonding is only required if foot traffic is anticipated.

Size. While rigid panels maintain output, semi-flexible panel output will drop noticeably within five years. Plan for it.

3M Dual Lock. Though grommets are supplied, you may find a no-fastener mounting more convenient. These fasteners provides more than five years durability and 15 pounds per square inch pull-out strength.

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Captain Curran's sailing blog

~ a collection of sailing adventures from Alaska to Cabo

October 6, 2014

Solar panels for boats: an easy installation guide., marine solar panel installation.

• I am writing the following instructions for boat people or RV campers. 
• I describe a basic set up that provides a charge onto your 12 Volt DC battery bank.
• If you want to use this system to power your home, then you'll also need an inverter to switch the 12 Volt DC electricity to 110 Volt AC.

Ok, here's my simple DIY instructions for solar installation on a boat or an RV camper.

How to install solar panels for boats.

Step by step guide for installing a solar panel boat system

Faq: what size panel should i get, faq: which brand of solar panel is best, faq: do i need a controller.

FAQ: How did you mount your panel on your stern rail?

FAQ: How do you wire up the panels/controller/battery?

FAQ: How much will this whole solar panel project cost?

Solar power for boats price breakdown, okay - good luck with your marine solar panel installation ,  capt. curran, 64 comments:.

Heany - Don't hesitate, the beauty of this system is that there are no moving parts, which means maintenance is minimal.. turning photons to electrons

Good question - visit your local machine shop They should have barrels of aluminum flat panels You want 12-16 inch long, need to measure panel That's it Then drill holes and strap in on the rail Have fun!

Thanks Douglass - all the best..

Great information, thank you! Where did you purchase the white plastic rail mounts?

Hello Philip Magistro, I bought them at a boating store in Seattle - called Fisheries Supply - they may ship. But I would also check your local west marine - they are standard stern rail mounts - they fit lots of other stuff as well as solar panels. Good luck !

Excellent, glad it was helpful. I'm about to post a couple new photos of the system. Everything is still working great.

Two questions 1. Is a 30w panel large enough to trick charge two 12v batteries? 2. How large an in-line on the positive lead to the battery?

Hello - Yes, a 30watt panel is large enough to trickle charge 2 12 V batteries. That is the set up I have on my boat - it works great - even in mixed sun/cloud conditions. When you ask 'how large' an in-line on the pos. lead - I am assuming you're asking the guage. I can't give the exact guage that is suited for your set-up. But, I know that the reasonable range is between 10-14 awg. Hope that helps.. Cheers

Kevin Thanks. Great info! I was actually trying to ask type and size of fuse on the positive lead to the battery. Fingers! Cheers Bill Pierson

Thanks for a great post! I'll go with the Renogy 200 Watt kit. I know it's not as adventurous, but easier and faster. And time is money :)

Lucas, I hear ya. Time is money - best of luck with that kit. I think you've made a wise decision.... Kevin

Thanks a lot Kavin for your guidance on installing a solar panel on boat. As solar panels are the most effective and the best way of generating electricity these days so everybody wants to install a solar panel of their own. But installing a solar panel in the boat is little challenging. Thanks for sharing the step by step guidelines, it is definitely going to help the readers.

Great article. A few questions: The article explains how to hook it up to one battery. But I have a system with two house banks of two bateries each, as well as a starter battery. How do I ensure that the trickle charge gets to all give batteries? Or do you just hook it up to the starter battery? How does this system interact with my charger?

Mary, I have a similar battery bank - but the two are connected. I connect the leads of the solar panel to my house batteries. However, if they are not connected - then I would connect the leads of your solar panel to the starter battery.

Mary, I would get a MorningStar SunSaver Duo controller which can charge 2 batteries (or banks thereof) and set the 2 house banks in parallel on the controller's Batt1 and the Starter Battery on Batt2. This controller has the option to charge 90/10 or 50/50, 90/10 is best for this setup because the starting battery doesn't need much, just enough to top-it-off.

Hi Kevin, I purchased the Renogy 100w panel with controler. I like your plastic rail mounts. Where can I find those. I plan to mount this on the stern of my 73, 27' Catalina stern rail. Thanks, Chris

Chris, I got mine at a boat store in Seattle called Fishery Supplies. I just looked it up on their website. Here's the page for those rail clamps. https://www.fisheriessupply.com/sea-dog-line-removable-rail-mount-clamps-327199-1 Made by a company called Sea Dog. Good luck - Kevin

I have a 20 volt panel, single marine battery, with a controler working without problem for about 4 years. While motoring out of the marina the controler caught fire. I did not have a fuse installed as you described in your installation guide. Any idea what might have caused this? Barry

Barry Curran, That is an odd and unfortunate situation. I am not an expert on safeguarding circuits, however I can weigh in with my opinion. I do think that the installation of a circuit fuse would help prevent over-charge or over-heating happening within the circuit. I think - assuming the over-charge was happening throughout the circuit - that the fuse would have blown, thereby salvaging your controller. However, there is a chance that a diode or some other internal circuit on the controller was the weak link. In that case, I don't believe a downstream fuse would have helped save your controller. I would install a fuse and get yourself a new controller. Best of luck! Kevin Curran

Just an helpful clarification on the purpose and location of the fuse. The fuse is to protect the wire, and should be placed as close to the origination of the power source as possible which, in this case, is the positive lead near the solar panel. We're all use to hearing about locating the main fuse on a boat as close to the battery as possible; that's because that's where the power comes from. Also, the fuse should be sized based upon the length and gauge of the wire.

Thanks for that additional insight on the location of the fuse! Sorry I didn't see this comment earlier.

Thanks for sharing the helpful guide to install solar panels .

Thanks for sharing article solar installation on boats it is really informative.A Solar panel is typically a panel that absorbs solar energy and uses it as a source of energy to generate electricity. They are basically made up of solar cells or the photovoltaic cells that are arranged as a photovoltaic array making up the photovoltaic system.I know a place one of the best solar installation company provides best solar services and products that are not just economical, but also efficient with customized solutions to offer you the best from our vast range of affordable models...

Greetings, How lucky am I to have happened upon your easily understood blog. Stupid question: can I mount the solar panel flat on the deck of my Nonsuch sailboat? (I know: don’t step on it!). Will it be worthwhile? (It can’t go on the stern rail).

Yes, that can be done. If you have a bimini or any cover in your cockpit, that is probably a better location. But flat on the deck can work, you can create a border around it to prevent falling on it...

Thank you so much for your excellent blog. I am considering a solar system for my 28' Catalina sailboat. Battery question: Any problem using solar systems with AGM batteries? I have two, house and starter battery.

Hmmm, that's a good question. I have never heard of any issue with AGMs on a solar system. Any other readers here have comments?

Selecting the correct charger depends primarily on the design of your deep cycle battery, so the first thing you need to do is determine the construction type of your battery. TrollingBatteryAdvisor.com This is likely to prolong the life of each battery and save you money in the long run.

Great blog! Can I leave my solar panel attached to the battery while I'm drawing from the battery to run my trolling motor?

Anonymous, Yes, you certainly can. There is no issue with drawing from a battery that is being fed energy from a solar panel. Enjoy Captain Curran

Thanks for sharing this article here about the solar panels for boats . Your article is very informative and I will share it with my other friends as the information is really very useful. Keep sharing your excellent work.

Great to hear! Glad the post was helpful..

Thanks a lot, Captain Curran and co-Captain Jessica for a nice and informative article about "Marine solar panel installation". This article will surely help the sailor in the Sea. And using a solar panel in the mid-sea is a very nice idea as an alternative source of power. Best wishes from SolarPandit

Thank you very much, Captain Curran and co-Captain Jessica, for a very interesting and insightful post on "Marine solar panel installation." This article will undoubtedly assist the sailor at sea. Using a solar panel and  in the middle of the sea as an alternate source of electricity is also a great idea.

Hello all, Great to see the article has been helpful for those putting panels on their boat. Don't hesitate to reach out with any questions. I changed the notification, so I should be pinged when someone asks a question. Fair winds!

The Renogy 30 Watt Solar Panel is an excellent choice for light energy users, while the 100 Watt Solar Panel is preferred for moderate energy users. And remember to use a suitable quality controller like the Morningstar SunSaver-10 to control the panel's charge and prevent over-charging the battery.

Their step-by-step guide for installing solar panels on boats is incredibly helpful, and I appreciate the personal touch of sharing their own experiences and the success they've had with their solar panel system. The detailed explanations, recommended products, and estimated costs make it easy for someone like me to envision completing this project over a weekend. I'm definitely inspired to take on this DIY installation and enjoy the freedom of generating my own energy while sailing.

I can’t really help but admire your article your topic is so adorable and nice.

Forbidden love in a mesmerizing supernatural universe. Anime like Devils Line

Captain Curran's guide to installing solar panels on boats is a real lifesaver! After following his easy-to-understand steps, I completed my own installation over a weekend, and now my boat's batteries are always topped off during my fishing trips in the Chesapeake Bay. No more worries about a dead battery spoiling the fun!

Hello Captain, Great article, thank you. Our vessel has (6) 6 volt golf cart batteries, a 2000 Watt inverter, plus a generator. I want to limit the generator recharge time by installing a 100 or 200 watt kit that you recommend. My question is can I just connect the pos. and neg. marine grade wires from the controller directly to my battery bank pos. and neg. Thanks, John

This article on installing solar panels for boats brought back memories of my own sailing adventures along the coast of California. I remember the frustration of being stranded due to a dead battery and the relief that came with finding a solution. Capt. Curran's step-by-step guide is not only practical but also reflects his passion for sustainable energy solutions, making it a valuable resource for fellow sailors.

Mr gorelal Ramlal Nagpur Maharashtra

Hamen bhoot kharidna hai price bataen contact Karen

Usko use karne ka Tarika bataen aur iske future bataen liya to aapka contact number bhejen message Karen share Karen

Hello Capt. I want to limit the amount of recharge time on my boat. I installed a 100 watt Renolgy panel, controller, correct gauge wire, and fused both positive leads properly. My house batteries are (6) golf cart batteries, 1200 ah, 12 volt output. What are your suggestions for connecting the controller pos and neg terminals. Thanks, John

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Top 3 Best Solar Panels For Sailboats

Choosing whether or not to install solar panels on your sailboat is a big decision. They are not exactly cheap, though they can start to pay themselves off pretty quickly.

This article is going to cover not only why you might want to use solar panels but all the benefits they provide. You will also find a helpful guide on which solar panels would be best for you and your budget. Hopefully, by the end, you will feel confident in your decision to install solar panels on your sailboat and even have an idea of which ones you might like.

Table of contents

Are solar panels on sailboats necessary?

Whether or not you should be installing solar panels on your boat is a matter of choice, not out of necessity. Sailboats get their power from the wind, by harnassing it in their sail. So if you plan to be sailing for the afternoon you probably don’t need solar panels.

You could charge a battery pack from the marina and that will probably see you through several trips. The problems only really start to arise if you are planning to be on your sailboat for longer periods, or even permanently. If you plan to live on your sailboat year-round, even if you spend 80% of it in a marina, you would be better off with some solar panels. Even if it is just as a backup source of power.

Are solar panels on boats safe?

Solar panels are generally pretty safe. They have no moving parts and typically have a very strong protective cover over them so you never come in contact with the electrics themself. So, as a source of power, they are generally pretty safe. The only time they may become unsafe is if they are badly damaged.

Solar panels are often covered by glass plating that keeps them safe. It also helps them absorb sunlight and warmth. This is great, except when the glass breaks. If the glass protective cover on your solar panels should crack and splinter you are at risk of serious injury from sharp shards of glass. Not only is the glass itself dangerous at this point, so are the electronic components inside. They have powerful currents running through them, and if you come in contact with them you may be in for a shock.

Furthermore, if these electronics get wet they can become deadly. Electricity and water do not mix well at all. Being as you are on a sailboat, at sea, the chances of them getting wet is very high. Luckily, the chances of them breaking in the first place are slim to none. The only real way they would break, besides vandalism, is by debris hitting them during a bad storm. There is not often debris at sea, so this shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

What are the benefits of having solar panels on a sailboat?

There are so many great benefits of having solar panels on a sailboat. They can be a lifesaver if you find yourself at sea for a long time. There benefits range from trivial comforts to being the difference between life and death. Here are some of the benefits you might not have considered about having solar panels installed on your sailboat.

Money-saving

Solar panels are not cheap, it is far cheaper to just run a generator or charge your batteries from the marina the whole time. At least, it is in the short term. Over time, it can start to become very expensive. With solar panels, you are looking at a big initial cost (the solar panels themself) and then it’s smooth sailing. You don’t need to pay for power again. Solar panels last for about 40 years before they start to become too inefficient at producing power. The cost of a few solar panels upfront compared to 40 years of marina fees and gasoline for a generator is the financially savvy move.

Emergency power

If you find yourself at sea, the wind dies down (or becomes too strong), and you find yourself stuck bobbing around waiting for more favorable conditions you may run into trouble. Depending on how long you are out there, you may find yourself with dead electronics. Be it a satellite phone, radio, or secondary engine (depending on the boat). Having a set of solar panels and a power bank can be a genuine lifesaver in these situations.

Comfort amenities

Whether you are day sailing or making a week-long voyage, having access to the comforts in life can make the whole journey so much more enjoyable. The amenities may not be available to you without having a constant source of power at sea. Having access to a kettle, tv, videogame system, radio or microwave oven may be the only thing keeping you going at rougher times. As exciting as sailing can be, when you aren’t sailing and are just bobbing around it can be quite dull. The sea is beautiful, but there is only so much time you can spend looking at the water before you miss the comforts of land. With solar panels, you can bring those comforts with you.

Eco-friendly

There are only two alternatives to solar panels. A gasoline generator, and taking power from the grid. Neither of these is good for the environment. Luckily, solar panels are a great third option. Solar panels are completely eco-friendly and are great for the environment. This is not just great for the earth, and your conscience, but for the journey itself. If you are running a gasoline generator at sea you are going to be listening to it thrumming away and smell the burning gasoline. Wouldnt you prefer silence and nothing but the smell of the sea breeze?

How much do solar panels cost?

How much solar panels cost is almost entirely tied into both their voltage/wattage and whether or not they are portable panels. Portable solar panels are great for people who don’t spend a lot of time on their boat or are happy enough living off the marina’s power grid. Permanent solar panels, the kind that may need to professionally installed, can end up costing far more. They are also likely to be far superior and you can pretty much forget about them once they are installed.

Portable solar panels will cost just a few hundred dollars each. You will need a few to be sustainable, but that’s not going to be much of a problem. These portable solar panels can just be rolled out on the deck of your boat, weighed down, and then hooked up to a battery pack. The battery itself here is going to be the most expensive part of the whole set up. A decent-sized battery could set you back a $1000. But, when charged fully it will last days. Even with constant use.

Permanently installed solar panels can cost one or two thousand dollars in some cases. The advantage here though is once they are installed that’s it, you can forget about them. You don’t have to put them up, take them down, and find somewhere to stow them every time they need using. They too will need to be hooked up to a battery, the battery is still only going to cost you $1000. If you are installing permanent solar panels because you plan to be making long voyages, it is ideal to have two or perhaps even three large batteries hooked up to your boat. One to run off, one or two for emergencies.

How do I maintain my solar panels?

Solar panels, unlike gasoline generators, are generally pretty easy to maintain. They have no moving parts and are thus pretty self-sufficient. They don’t need taking apart and they last as long as 40 years. That being said, if they do break they need repairing as soon as possible. The exposed electrics can be deadly when water is thrown into the mix. Which, on a boat, is almost always. The glass cover will need replacing and the electronics inside may need repairing, though not always. Don’t ever attempt to do this yourself unless you are experienced at making these repairs. The cost of hiring someone to do it for you is preferable to being dead. Solar panels have very powerful electric currents, that when in contact with water and yourself can be fatal. As mentioned above, these panels rarely break so you will likely not ever run into this problem. If you do, hire a contractor.

Do my solar panels need cleaning?

Solar panels work by converting the light and heat of the sun into useable power. The process itself is rather complicated but the results are simple to understand. That being said, there are some reasons that your solar panels will stop working as effectively. They all revolve around a lack of sunlight. It could be because it is night time. It could be because it is very cloudy. Or, it could be because they are dirty. If solar panels become too dusty, dirty, and become too covered in grime they stop operating at maximum efficiency. This is not as much of a problem at sea, the sea spray stops dust settling. The biggest thing you will need to clean off your solar panels is salt build-up and slime. This is easy enough to do with some warm soapy water. Freshwater, not seawater. You want to be removing as much salt as possible. Salt is corrosive to electronics, so removing it is important. Never clean your solar panels using pressure washers as they can crack the glass.

Which are the best solar panels for sailing?

There are so many options on the market at various price points. Here are three very different options that will all make good choices, depending on your needs. It is important to consider not just price but power output. Spending a lot of money on solar panels now might not feel ideal, but it is the most cost-effective decision.

1. Renogy Starter Kit

This starter kit is going to be perfect for installing on almost any sized boat. There are four solar panels, each can be fitted permanently to the boat. They can be mounted (and unmounted) easily, for your convenience. They do require a flat surface, but they are small enough that that likely won’t be too much of a problem. This starter kit is very middle of the pack price-wise but should provide enough power for a small to medium-sized vessel easily. It is also possible to buy extra panels individually should you need them.

Wattage: 400/4 (100 per panel)

2. Nature Power Rigid

The nature power rigid is a large, powerful, single solar panel. If you are looking for the right panels to power your entire boat comfortably, these are the ones for you. They are very large so they will need a large flat surface area. alternatively, they can be hung vertically from rails. This is an inefficient way of using them, so you would need to buy more this way. Nature power makes various solar panels so you could find some smaller ones of the same brand to supplement it. This one is not so easy to install, you might need to hire someone to install it for you.

Wattage: 165

3. Nature Power Monocrystalline

Nature power makes a portable solar panel that fits inside a special briefcase. It is perfect for stowing away easily and only taking it out when it is needed. It is decently powerful considering its portable, but there is the inconvenience factor of having to set it up each time. If you planned to buy the nature power rigid, buying one of these portable panels might be ideal for supplementing your power supply when it is especially sunny. Though, it may be cheaper for you to just fit more of the Nature Power Rigids.

Wattage: 120

Hopefully, you now have a good idea about whether solar panels would be right for you and your sailboat. Sailing is great, but the lack of power at sea can be dreadfully boring. Luckily, there are so many great options available on the market. Not just the ones mentioned above. Buying a solar panel is an investment, the initial cost is minor compared to the steady return from all the savings you will make.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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The Different Types of Solar Panels for Boats

• 1 Monocrystalline Solar Panels
• 2 Polycrystalline Solar Panels
• 3 Thin-Film Solar Panels
• 4 Amorphous Solar Panels
• 5 Semi-Flexible Solar Panels
• 6 Rigid Solar Panels
• 7 Conclusion

Related Posts

As the world’s focus on sustainability intensifies, the allure of harnessing solar power for various applications, including marine settings, has grown significantly. For boat owners and enthusiasts, embracing solar panels offers a gateway to a greener and more self-sufficient way of navigating the open waters. The sun’s natural energy can power boats, reducing reliance on conventional energy sources and minimizing environmental impact.

In this blog, we delve into the diverse world of solar panels for boats , exploring the advantages and characteristics of each type. Whether you sail the vast ocean or cruise along tranquil rivers, understanding the array of solar panel options available will empower you to make informed decisions in embracing renewable energy and charting a course toward a more sustainable future on the waves.

Monocrystalline Solar Panels

Monocrystalline solar panels are known for their efficiency and sleek design, making them popular for boat owners seeking maximum power output in limited spaces. These panels are made from a single crystal structure, allowing them to convert sunlight into electricity efficiently. Monocrystalline panels boast an excellent power-to-size ratio, making them perfect for boats with limited roof or deck space. While they tend to be more expensive than other types, their durability and efficiency make them a wise long-term investment.

Polycrystalline Solar Panels

Polycrystalline solar panels are another prevalent option for marine applications. Unlike monocrystalline panels, polycrystalline panels have multiple crystal structures, slightly reducing their efficiency. However, they are more cost-effective to manufacture, making them a budget-friendly choice for boat owners. Polycrystalline panels are bulkier than monocrystalline panels, so they may require more space for installation. If you have ample deck or roof area on your boat and are looking for an economical solar solution, polycrystalline panels can be an excellent choice.

Thin-Film Solar Panels

Thin-film solar panels are highly versatile and lightweight, making them an attractive option for boats. They are created by depositing thin layers of photovoltaic material on various substrates, such as glass, metal, or plastic. Thin-film panels have lower efficiency than crystalline panels but perform better in low-light conditions, making them suitable for overcast or shaded areas on the boat. The flexibility of thin-film panels allows for easy installation on curved or irregular surfaces, making them an ideal choice for boat owners who value adaptability and space efficiency.

Amorphous Solar Panels

Amorphous solar panels, a subset of thin-film technology, are created by depositing non-crystalline silicon on a substrate. They are highly durable, lightweight, and flexible, making them a perfect fit for marine applications. Amorphous panels perform well in low-light conditions and have a better temperature coefficient than crystalline panels, meaning their efficiency drops less in hot environments. While they may have a lower efficiency overall, their ability to generate power in diverse conditions can be advantageous for long journeys or unpredictable weather conditions.

Semi-Flexible Solar Panels

Semi-flexible solar panels offer a middle ground between traditional rigid and thin-film options. These panels feature a thin layer of solar cells embedded in a flexible plastic or polymer material. Semi-flexible panels can conform to curved surfaces, making them suitable for mounting on boat decks, cabins, or sails. They are lightweight and easy to install, often requiring adhesive rather than bolts. While their efficiency might not match rigid crystalline panels, their versatility and ease of integration make them popular among boat owners.

Rigid Solar Panels

Rigid solar panels, typically monocrystalline or polycrystalline materials, are the most common type in various applications. While they are less flexible than other options, they remain a reliable and efficient choice for boats with ample deck or rooftop space. Rigid panels are durable, weather-resistant, and can deliver higher power outputs. They are ideal for boats with higher energy demands, such as those with multiple electronic devices or appliances.

Solar power is revolutionizing how we generate energy, and boats are no exception to this transformation. As boat owners seek eco-friendly and cost-effective solutions to power their vessels, solar panels offer a reliable and sustainable answer. Understanding the different types of solar panels available for boats is crucial in selecting the right solution for your needs, considering factors like space availability, budget, and desired efficiency. Whether you opt for monocrystalline, polycrystalline, thin-film, amorphous, semi-flexible, or rigid solar panels, embracing solar energy will propel your boat toward a greener and more independent future on the water.

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	--> | | | Download | Universal Arch Design Makes Installations on Hundreds of Other Makes and Models Possible Cruising Sailors want More! More Power, Bigger Tenders, More stuff! Our new Sch 80 Mark2 Sail Arch meets those needs, with a Larger extended truss to provide increased resistance to lateral motion and the ability to easily handle a grid system with up to four large solar panels for morethan 1600 watts of solar. Plus all of our accessories, Tender Handler, Kayak/Paddleboard racks, Starlink antennas, Motor Cranes and more , distance between forward legs and after legs is the same See diagram 1 , 2 . Super Sail Arch Xtra High Capacity , 2"ID super sized material InLine Mounting Centers Inches   Forward Legs   After Legs        Minimum   Maximum   Minimum   Maximum  TIB101/02  Sail Arch Standard Schedule 40     TIB24350 78 90 78 90  $   2,800.00 TIB24400 88 100 88 100  $   2,800.00 TIB24500 92 112 92 112  $   2,900.00 TIB24600 104 123 104 123  $   3,000.00               TIB101/02SPO1  Sail Arch HiCapacity Schedule 80     TIB24350 78 90 78 90  $   3,500.00 TIB24400 88 100 88 100  $   3,500.00 TIB24500 92 112 92 112  $   3,600.00 TIB24600 104 123 104 123  $   3,700.00               Mark 2 Sail Arch HiCapacity Schedule 80     TIB24350 78 90 78 90  $   4,100.00 TIB24400 88 100 88 100  $   4,100.00 TIB24500 92 112 92 112  $   4,200.00 TIB24600 104 123 104 123  $   4,300.00 TIB24650 104 123 104 123  $   4,500.00               Sail Arch HiCapacity Schedule 80 Extra Wide TIB24400 118 130 118 130  $   4,000.00 TIB24500 128 140 128 140  $   4,100.00 TIB24600 138 150 138 150  $   4,200.00 TIB24650 148 160 148 160  $   4,400.00                             TIB101/02SPOMK2 Mar 2 Sail Arch HiCapacity Schedule 80 Extra Wide TIB24400 118 130 118 130  $   4,500.00 TIB24500 128 140 128 140  $   4,600.00 TIB24600 138 150 138 150  $   4,700.00 TIB24650 148 160 148 160  $   4,900.00 Offset  Mounting Centers Inches Forward Legs   After Legs        Minimum   Maximum   Minimum   Maximum  TIB1015/025 Sail Arch Standard Schedule 40 Legs Offset         TIB24350 78 90 68 80  $   2,900.00 TIB24400 88 100 78 90  $   2,900.00 TIB24500 92 112 82 102  $   3,000.00 TIB24600 104 123 94 113  $   3,100.00             TIB1015/025SPO1 Sail Arch HiCapacity Schedule 80 Legs Offset   TIB24350 78 90 68 80  $   3,600.00 TIB24400 88 100 78 90  $   3,600.00 TIB24500 92 112 82 102  $   3,700.00 TIB24600 104 123 94 113  $   3,800.00             Mark 2 Sail Arch HiCapacity Schedule 80 Legs Offset   TIB24350 78 90 68 80  $   4,100.00 TIB24400 88 100 78 90  $   4,200.00 TIB24500 92 112 82 102  $   4,300.00 TIB24600 104 123 94 113  $   4,400.00             Sail Arch HiCapacity Schedule 80 Xtra Wide Legs Offset TIB24400 118 130 108 120  $   4,000.00 TIB24500 128 140 118 130  $   4,100.00 TIB24600 138 150 128 140  $   4,200.00 TIB24650 148 160 118 150  $   4,400.00 Mark 2 Sail Arch HiCapacity Schedule 80 Xtra Wide Legs Offset TIB24400 118 130 108 120  $   4,700.00 TIB24500 128 140 118 130  $   4,800.00 TIB24600 138 150 128 140  $   4,900.00 TIB24650 148 160 118 150  $   5,000.00 Please Call for information on specific yacht applications; certain customizable dimensions are possible at additional cost Prices and specifications are subject to change, please call for current information [UPDATED] Click to see a comprehensive list of boats our "Tower In A Box" Sail Arches have been installed on. Universal Arch Makes Installations on Hundreds of Other Makes and Models Possible High Strength welded frame of schedule 40 marine grade aluminum pipe nearly 2" in diameter, with secondary reinforcement of nearly 1 3/8" in diameter finished in durable salt resistant bright clear anodizing The Arch has the appearance and strength of a custom welded unit when installed on your boat. It weighs less than 100 pounds, and is strong enough to support the weight of two persons for the installation of equipment. , or 2" diameter 2 bolt bases click here (new page, Kit #6 detail) Cupped feet, to allow direct pass thru of electrical cables are available at additional cost. Everything is included for a complete installation on most boats, even backing plates along with instructions and a video detailing all the steps of the installation. New for Spring 2015, "Tower In A Box" arch bridges include a snap-in Sintra cover panel in radar plate to conceal wiring. A feature borrowed from our Custom Structures. 6391 Walmore Road Niagara Falls, NY 14304 Tel: 1-866-945-8801 Email: --> Available Options: --> Atlantic Towers manufactures a wide variety of fittings and specialty hardware that allow Sail Arch owners to design and build a variety of individualized applications. Including Solar Panel array supports. Davit arms, lifting eyes, outboard motor brackets, etc. A growing number of cruising yachts are using Tower in a Box® stern mounted arches to mount solar panel arrays and lift their tender. Frequently arches cannot be mounted sufficiently far aft to provide a straight “pick” when lifting the tender and the tendered needs to dragged up and over the sugar scoop or extended platform to raise it into a secure position under the arch. The “Tender Handler” option provides “reach” to lift the tender from the water behind a sugar scoop transom or extended swim platform and then bring it high and close to the yacht under the arch, where it can be secured for navigation. The unique design feature is the articulated pivot at the connection of the “Tender Handler” frame to the arch, eliminating the need for perfect alignment and ensuring smooth operation. Wind Generator Base and Mast can be clamped anywhere on the top of your arch. Comes with a 40' length of 1 1/2" Schd.40 which can be permanently fitted into the receiver with two part epoxy, or made removable with the use of machine screws or quick release pins. The 1.90" outer diameter of the 1 1/2" schd.40 pipe fits many popular wind generators. the Wind Generator mast MUST be ordered with the arch, it cannot be bolted on. --> An extruded anodized aluminum clamp assembly that can be used to secure a lifting tackle to the arch. Can be mounted to top of arch to extend the "pick point" of the lifting eyes up to 24" behind arch. Includes two 42" Schd.80 extensions, end caps, curved washers, clamp assembly lifting eyes, and all hardware needed for installation. . Allows you to mount solar panels anywhere on your arch. Kit contains (2) 65" lengths of 1" x 2" x 1/8" rectangular aluminum tube, (4) plastic end caps, (8) Curved Washers, and all hardware needed for installation. We offer a full line of parts and accessories that can be combined to create your own custom mounting solution. For pricing and more information please call Need more rod holders? Individual can be mounted anywhere on the perimeter of the Sail Arch framework. A unique patented design available exclusively from Atlantic Towers, manufactured from all aluminum in natural aluminum or gold anodized finish Adjust-O-Launchers can be pivoted thru 12 positions for unmatched flexibility. Fits all marine standard 1-1/2” pipe (1.90” o.d.) AJ30500C Clear Anodizing: AJ30500G Gold Anodizing: More light, less current draw than conventional halogen lamps. Current draw less than 1 amp each (less than 2 amps a pair) at 12 volts. Wire with minimum 20 gauge (always used tinned stranded wire for marine applications). Includes Choice of mounting bracket to fit any Atlantic Towers structure. Tower in a Box Arches - Single MP152 with KIT54000 Light Mount: Custom Arches - Single MP152 with KIT54000 Light Mount: An extruded anodized aluminum clamp allows you to add a cleat anywhere on your Atlantic Towers Sail Arch. Made from 1 1/2" schd. 40 anodized aluminum pipe with an outer diameter measuring 1.9" and features eye bolts for tying down equipment along with grip rail to prevent any slipping or damage. With three different clamp on or bolt on versions available, the rack can be clamped or bolted to existing arches, hardtops, davit systems, bow rails, and foredecks. Bolt on Rack: Clamp on Rack: The Arch was designed for owner installation and is typically no more complicated than installing rod holders or outriggers, just a few more pieces. If you are comfortable with hand tools, the Arch comes with instructions and all the backing plates and hardware required for a thru bolted installation. page for professional installers with whom our customers have had a good experience) How is the Arch shipped to me? Although the Arch is not heavy it is too large to go by UPS. We have discounted freight arrangements with several trucking companies, which cover all 48 states and Canada. We can also ship to Alaska, Hawaii and any overseas city, call us for details. The Arch is packed in a single large cardboard carton and normally ships to a commercial address What happens if my Arch is damaged in shipping? Atlantic Towers wants you to enjoy your boat, not spend the season chasing a freight claim. If your Arch arrives damaged, just refuse the shipment and we will send you a new one at no additional cost to you. Can I return my Arch if I decide I don’t want to keep it? Atlantic will accept the return of any Standard Structure within 30 days of it’s receipt by you. Simply return the Structure in the original packaging in new condition freight pre-paid and we will refund the purchase price less a 10% restocking fee Yes, for 5 years, see the section of our website for details. **NOTE: There is a 10% re-stocking charge for cancelled or returned merchandise** Due to our dedication to continued product improvement, we reserve the right to make changes without notice. Solar Panel Tilt Angle Calculator Updated January 12, 2022 Solar Calculators Use our solar panel tilt angle calculator to find the best angle for your solar panels. Tip:  Also check out our  solar panel azimuth angle calculator  to find the best direction to face your solar panels. Want to know how much it costs to go solar? Click the button below to use one of the top solar calculators. You can discover the true cost of solar panels for your home and compare free online quotes from local installers. Best Solar Panel Angle by Zip Code Here is a list of the best solar panel angles for 50 of the most populated zip codes in the US. Full list: Best Solar Panel Angle by Zip Code City State Zip Code Best Year-Round Solar Panel Angle Best Summer Solar Panel Angle Best Winter Solar Panel Angle Anaheim CA 92804 28.6° 13.6° 43.6° Antioch TN 37013 29.7° 14.7° 44.7° Bell CA 90201 28.7° 13.7° 43.7° Bronx NY 10467 31.9° 16.9° 46.9° Bronx NY 10456 31.9° 16.9° 46.9° Brooklyn NY 11211 31.8° 16.8° 46.8° Brooklyn NY 11208 31.8° 16.8° 46.8° Brooklyn NY 11236 31.8° 16.8° 46.8° Brooklyn NY 11226 31.8° 16.8° 46.8° Brooklyn NY 11234 31.8° 16.8° 46.8° Brooklyn NY 11220 31.8° 16.8° 46.8° Brooklyn NY 11214 31.8° 16.8° 46.8° Brooklyn NY 11207 31.8° 16.8° 46.8° Brownsville TX 78521 24.3° 9.3° 39.3° Chicago IL 60629 32.3° 17.3° 47.3° Chicago IL 60618 32.4° 17.4° 47.4° Chicago IL 60632 32.3° 17.3° 47.3° Chino CA 91710 28.7° 13.7° 43.7° Corona NY 11368 31.9° 16.9° 46.9° Cypress TX 77433 26.6° 11.6° 41.6° El Paso TX 79936 27.6° 12.6° 42.6° Elmhurst NY 11373 31.8° 16.8° 46.8° Fontana CA 92335 28.8° 13.8° 43.8° Fontana CA 92336 28.8° 13.8° 43.8° Frisco TX 75034 28.3° 13.3° 43.3° Grand Prairie TX 75052 28.1° 13.1° 43.1° Hawthorne CA 90250 28.7° 13.7° 43.7° Houston TX 77084 26.5° 11.5° 41.5° Katy TX 77449 26.5° 11.5° 41.5° Katy TX 77494 26.5° 11.5° 41.5° Lakewood NJ 08701 31.6° 16.6° 46.6° Lawrenceville GA 30043 28.7° 13.7° 43.7° Long Beach CA 90805 28.7° 13.7° 43.7° Los Angeles CA 90011 28.7° 13.7° 43.7° Los Angeles CA 90044 28.7° 13.7° 43.7° McKinney TX 75070 28.3° 13.3° 43.3° New York City NY 10025 31.9° 16.9° 46.9° Norwalk CA 90650 28.7° 13.7° 43.7° Pacoima CA 91331 28.9° 13.9° 43.9° Pearland TX 77584 26.4° 11.4° 41.4° Pflugerville TX 78660 26.9° 11.9° 41.9° Pittsburg CA 94565 30.6° 15.6° 45.6° Ridgewood NY 11385 31.8° 16.8° 46.8° Riverside CA 92503 28.7° 13.7° 43.7° San Juan PR 00926 19.1° 4.1° 34.1° South Gate CA 90280 28.7° 13.7° 43.7° Staten Island NY 10314 31.8° 16.8° 46.8° Sugar Land TX 77479 26.4° 11.4° 41.4° Sylmar CA 91342 28.9° 13.9° 43.9° Westminster CA 92683 28.6° 13.6° 43.6° If you don't see your zip code on this list, just enter it into the solar angle calculator at the top of this page to find the ideal tilt angle for your location. 5 Solar Panel Tilt Calculation Methods Here are 5 different ways to calculate the optimal solar tilt angle for your location: Our Solar Panel Tilt Angle Calculator Simple Rules of Thumb An Excel or Google Sheets Spreadsheet The PVWatts Calculator A Stanford Research Team's Tilt Angle Formulas Let's run through each way, step-by-step. 1. Our Solar Panel Tilt Angle Calculator Scroll up to our solar panel angle calculator at the top of this page . In the box, enter a location such as your address, city, or zip code. I live in Atlanta, GA, so I typed "Atlanta" into the box. Then select your location from the dropdown results. I selected the top result: "Atlanta, GA, USA". The calculator will calculate the optimal year-round solar tilt angle (from horizontal) for your location. Mine is 28.6°. Scroll down and you'll see it also calculates your best tilt angles by season and month. Here are mine: Alternatively, you can just click "Use Your Current Location". Then click "Allow" when the site asks to use your location. The calculator will then use your current location to calculate your optimal solar tilt angle. 2. Simple Rules of Thumb Don't wanna mess with any solar tilt calculations? Here are 2 simple rules of thumb for finding the best solar panel angle for your location: Rule of Thumb: Set your solar panel tilt angle equal to your latitude. Seasonal Adjustments: Subtract 15° in the summer. Add 15° in the winter. And if you wanted to adjust your solar panels every month, you could just adjust them by 5 degrees each month -- bottoming out in June and maxing out in December in accordance with the summer and winter solstices for the northern hemisphere (or vice versa if you live in the southern hemisphere). To find my latitude, I went to Google Maps. Then I clicked on the map near my location. (For this example I just clicked in the center of Atlanta.) Once I did, I saw my location's latitude and longitude coordinates at the bottom of the map. The first number is my latitude. According to Google Maps, my latitude is 33.7°. Thus, using these rules of thumb: My optimal year-round tilt angle: 33.7° My optimal tilt angles by season: Spring: 33.7° Summer: 18.7° Fall: 33.7° Winter: 48.7° For comparison, when I plug my location into our calculator at the top of this page, I get an ideal year-round tilt angle of 28.6°. 3. An Excel or Google Sheets Spreadsheet Here's a free spreadsheet for calculating the ideal angle for your solar panels: How to save your own copy of the spreadsheet 1. Click "Copy the Spreadsheet" above. 2. Click  "Make a copy"  on the next screen to save a copy of the spreadsheet to your Google Drive. (If you aren't logged in to Google, you will first be asked to log in.) 3. If using Excel, go to File > Download > Microsoft Excel (.xlsx) to download the spreadsheet as an Excel file. Then open it in Excel. Now that you have your own copy, here's how to use it. How to use the spreadsheet 1. Enter your latitude . In this example, I just entered mine, 33.7°. 2. Locate your optimal year-round tilt angle . The spreadsheet includes a formula that will automatically calculate the angle based on your latitude. 3. Scroll down to locate your optimal tilt angles by season and by month . These are seasonal and monthly adjustments based on the simple rules of thumb mentioned above. Note: You do not need to send me a request for editing permission to use this spreadsheet. Just make a copy of it following the instructions above. 4. The PVWatts Calculator The PVWatts Calculator is a solar energy calculator made by the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL). I think of it as the gold standard for estimating how much solar energy your system will produce. How to use PVWatts to find your optimal solar tilt angle 1. Enter your address then click "Go". For this example I've entered the address of Atlanta City Hall. 2. On the Solar Resource Data page, scroll down to the map to confirm that the calculator found the right location. If it did, click "Go to system info". (If it didn't, click "Change Location" and try again.) 3. On the System Info page, experiment with different values in the "Tilt (deg)" field until you find the tilt angle that generates the most electricity. Start by typing in a number, then click "Go to PVWatts results". I entered "29" as my first tilt value. Tip: Use our solar panel tilt angle calculator at the top of the page to get an angle to use as your starting point in PVWatts. I did this and got 28.6° which I rounded up to 29°. 4. Note the estimated system output. At 29° tilt, this solar power system at my location would generate an estimated 5,809 kWh per year. 5. Go back to the System Info page and edit the tilt number up and down in increments of 1 until you find the tilt angle that generates the most solar energy at your location. After trying many different numbers, I found that 31° and 32° are my year-round optimal tilt angles -- both would generate an estimated 5,814 kWh per year. Note: There's currently no way for the PVWatts Calculator to just tell you the optimal tilt angle. You'll just have to use trial and error. Also, the calculator does not give you the option to input seasonal or monthly tilt angle adjustments. H/T to The Solar Nerd whose article taught me this solar tilt calculation method. 5. A Stanford Research Team's Tilt Angle Formulas Our solar panel tilt calculator is based on a Stanford research paper . The researchers behind it analyzed optimal solar tilt angles for all countries worldwide using PVWatts. Then, they produced two formulas to calculate the optimal fixed-tilt PV angle for any given location based on latitude. What are these magical formulas, you ask? If you live in the northern hemisphere (latitude > 0): (Φ = latitude) If you live in the southern hemisphere (latitude < 0): There you have it: A simple, research-backed way of calculating the optimal tilt angle of your solar panels. Note: These are the formulas under the hood of our solar panel angle calculator at the top of the page . Like I explained above, I used Google Maps to find my latitude. Doing so, I learned that my latitude is 33.7°. Because my latitude is greater than 0, I can use the first formula listed above to calculate my best solar panel tilt angle: After busting out my calculator (and doing a quick refresher on the order of operations), I get the following: My optimal year-round tilt angle: 28.6° (Because our calculator uses these formulas, we got the same answer as our calculator.) If I want to adjust my solar panels seasonally or monthly, I can add and subtract to this angle based on the rules of thumb described above. More Solar Calculators Solar Panel Size Calculator Solar Panel Charge Time Calculator Amp Hours to Watt Hours Calculator Jacobson, M., Jadhav, V., 2018. World estimates of PV optimal tilt angles and ratios of sunlight incident upon tilted and tracked PV panels relative to horizontal panels . Solar Energy, 169 , 55–66. Share This Article Hi, I'm Alex. I’m a DIY solar power enthusiast on a journey to learn how to solar power anything. Footprint Hero is where I’m sharing what I learn – as well as the (many) mistakes I’m making along the way. Solar Power World Know your codes for solar mounting By SPW | April 16, 2018 By Dan Felix, IronRidge training manager Working in the solar industry necessitates understanding more than one type of code, unlike, for example, an electrician who may just need to know the National Electrical Code (NEC). Building codes (IBC), fire codes (IFC) and structural engineering codes (ASCE) also come into play when adding solar to an existing structure. Here are a few codes all solar installers should be familiar with when working on rooftop projects. International Building Code Flashings and attachments The IBC states in article 1503.2 that “flashing shall be installed in such a manner so as to prevent moisture entering […] penetrations through the roof plane.” The IBC also states in article 1507.2.9 that “flashing shall be applied in accordance with this section and the asphalt shingle manufacturer’s printed instructions.” To prevent moisture from damaging the roof or entering the structure, a sealant is typically placed in holes and underneath the flashing. To this end, the IBC code requires an attachment flashing and a sealant that meets the requirements of the roofing manufacturer. Fire considerations In article IBC 1509.7.2, it says that “rooftop-mounted PV systems must not diminish the fire classification of the roof system.” In order to meet the IBC code here, one must ensure the system and equipment used have a UL fire-tested class rating that either matches or exceeds that of the existing roofing material. Structural loading considerations IBC section 3403 says “alterations to the existing building or structure shall be made to ensure that the existing building or structure together with the addition are no less conforming with the provisions of this code than the existing building or structure was prior to the addition.” This means that when adding solar to an existing structure, an installer cannot exceed what the building or structure was originally engineered to support. Each jurisdiction seems to enforce this code differently to make sure the roof is not overloaded. For example, here are a couple stances IronRidge has seen AHJs take: Some authorities are rigid: “The maximum spacing of PV supports is stipulated to be twice the rafter spacing and alternating such that all rafters carry the proposed system.” Some authorities are flexible: “45 lbs has been used by some jurisdictions as a reasonable level, below which point loading of roof joists and trusses can be ignored.” One should contact the local AHJ to understand the requirements for point-loading a system. And if in doubt, one can always contact a structural engineer to review the structure and the planned added weight of the proposed system. One way to evenly distribute weight across a solar system is to stagger attachments to the structure. This is a best practice, since staggering attachments means there will be less weight on each rafter. International Fire Code The IFC states in article 605.11.3.2.1 that “modules should be located in a manner that provides access pathway for firefighters.” It also says in article 605.11.3.2.4 that “panels/modules installed shall be located no higher than 3 ft below the ridge to allow for fire department ventilation operations.” Combined, these codes require a 3-ft clearance down from the ridge of a pitched roof to allow for fire departments to ventilate the building. Additionally, a clear 3-ft pathway needs to be available for firefighter access to the roof. 3-ft clearance shown (Photos from Cal Fire) National Electrical Code NEC 690 defines electrical safety requirements for PV systems. Equipment grounding required: Exposed non-current-carrying metal parts of PV module frames, electrical equipment and conductor enclosures must be grounded. Structure as equipment grounding conductor : Devices listed and identified for grounding the metal frames of solar modules or other equipment can bond exposed metal surfaces or other equipment to mounting structures. Metal mounting structures (other than building steel) used for grounding purposes should be identified as equipment-grounding conductors or have identified bonding jumpers or devices connected between the separate metal sections bonded to the grounding system. PV mounting systems and devices: Devices and systems used for mounting PV modules that are also used to provide grounding of the module frames should be identified for the purpose of grounding solar panels. Adjacent modules: Devices identified and listed for bonding the metal frames of PV modules can bond one panel to an adjacent one. To ensure NEC requirements are met, one should follow the racking manufacturer’s torque specifications to tighten down all connection points. These connections provide the bonding and grounding for the system when assembled properly. The UL listing of the racking system should be checked to make sure it has been tested and listed under UL 703 for the provision of bonding and grounding required within the codes. It’s important to remember that all codes are written for protection from system failures that could risk life and property. National codes are not always adopted and enforced by all states or local jurisdictions, so solar installers should always research what exactly is required by each AHJ. For more information on designing and installing a solar system, check out IronRidge’s free webinars —each valid for 1 NABCEP CE credit. March 20, 2024 at 12:55 pm I have a question I’m putting solar panels on the rear side of my A-Frame house this full access to the front roof is there any reason I cannot cover the entire back side of my roof with shoulder panels my town code says there’s an exemption if they can access the front but the Solar Company is telling me that they cannot accommodate what I’m asking I’ve done the calculations it would afford me four more panels approximately 1,600 Watts and I have high usage December 2, 2023 at 11:56 am Are the installers required to follow the manufacturers instructions for the roof mounts during an installation? What requires them to do so? February 24, 2023 at 4:54 pm Great article! Do walkway distances apply to attached patio awnings? I have a patio attached to the south facing rear side of my house. It is a sloped awning with asphalt shingle roof. Electrical runs in the interior to provide power for two ceiling fans. Would placement of panels require a 3ft walk way, or could I cover the entire surface with solar panels? P.S I live in Northern California if this helps March 9, 2023 at 10:48 pm I have the same question but my canopy is over my garage doors. Did anyone give you an answer? November 14, 2022 at 11:15 am Great article, What happens if my solar installer did not meet NEC requirements to include rapid shutdown for a residential system installed in 2022? December 30, 2022 at 9:29 am What type of system was installed? Todays optimizers and microinverters comply with rapid shutdown requirements. So if your system is Enphase, or SolarEdge those components both comply with rapid shutdown. September 12, 2022 at 6:12 pm What are the grounding requirements for the solar panel brackets in Texas? August 30, 2022 at 1:08 pm We are building a 12 unit apt. in Minneapolis. we are being told we will need a 42″ para-pit wall surrounding our solar panel lay out. Which has a 4′ clearance pathway surrounding as opposed to our stamped and approved 38.5″ height para-pit wall? Does anyone have a clear interpretation of the code that dictates this height and at what para-pit clearances? Also being told solar panels are classified as mechanical not electric. May 10, 2022 at 12:54 pm i was told that some fire departments will not attempt to fight a fire that is in a structure that has solar panels, do to the panels still being “active”! September 1, 2022 at 2:19 pm In my experience as a consultant who does post mortem on fires, fire depts. do, in fact, substantially delay response due to lack of education of how the rapid shutdown systems function. The fire depts. need to train their personnel working around PV. There really is no excuse, the codes have gotten so good at mitigating fire risks that structure fires are such a rarity that fire departments fire for budget relevance to be equipped for the what-if scenarios. Then they get a structure fire and blame it on the PV that they couldn’t properly fight the fire. April 11, 2022 at 2:48 pm what fire lanes are required when installing a tilt kit for solar panel on a house without a parapet? January 24, 2022 at 6:24 am Why fire code is not needed on the flat roof solar installation in most of the state except NYC or other jurisdictions? July 7, 2021 at 10:33 am Our Solar was installed but wiring from the panels were sliced together in the attic, taped with wire nuts but not placed in any junction boxes with covers. Does this meet code? August 18, 2021 at 11:17 am No, splices with wire nuts should be in a junction box. Also, if the wire is not in conduit in the attic, it should be ROMEX or similar cable, not just THHN wire. (The opposite is also true. Romex cannot go in conduit as the extra insulation will cause it to overheat.) October 28, 2021 at 11:43 pm NM cable (Romex) is designed to be run in conduit when protecting against physical damage. See NEC 334.15b May 19, 2021 at 9:18 pm We recently contracted Titan Solar to install over 100 SilFab 300 panels to our terracotta tile roof. We inadvertently discovered that they had destroyed more than 300 tiles. This damage was due to 4 different crews and 16 different technicians stepping where they shouldn’t but also trying to drill into the concrete tiles. Now they think they can “Patch” the roof when these tiles no longer are produced. Can we get some advice on how to proceed? August 3, 2021 at 4:46 pm Please reach out if you have not rectified this yet. We may be able to help. Regards, Simon Labrosse-Gelinas March 22, 2021 at 7:32 pm Hello, i am a structural engineer out of Minneapolis that focusses primarily on rooftop solar panel installs. This particular question is from the 2018 IFC, specifically section 1204.3.3. A local building official is stating that one of the ventilation options in between sub arrays is required even if the sub arrays are fully contained within a 150ftx150ft area. My interpretation of the code suggests that sub arrays can be continuous for 150 feet. Any larger requires breaks for ventilation and/or interior pathways. In the event of a fire and if roof top operations are employed a fire fighter needs to be able to traverse on the roof quickly hence the needs for the breaks. However, some racking manufactures require breaks every 60-80 feet. Sometimes arrays must be broken up for ease of installation and or to avoid conduits or obstructions. Such is the case for a particular job right now where we have several small sub arrays in a cluster separated by 18″. From the start of the first array to the start of the last array does not exceed 150 feet. If the arrays were connected the official claims no pathways would be needed, but since they are we have to have a 4ft pathway with cut outs or an 8ft pathway between them. To me this is in excess of what the language in the code intended to require. Please require clarification or direct me to someone who can. Thank you October 20, 2020 at 12:57 pm I already have all the brackets in place and I’m getting ready to set the panels up there. It looks like they might be too close to the edge of my garage, but since it’s attached to the house, firefighters can have plenty of room to go up on all sides of the house roof and across the top. I want to be in code. January 22, 2020 at 11:29 am great page, i was looking for code on fire setbacks for no livable structures. carports and sheds. if there is any info i would greatly appreciate it. February 7, 2021 at 10:13 am I am also looking for fire codes for a detached garage does anybody know where I can find that? March 5, 2021 at 12:40 pm 1204.2 exception 1 March 5, 2021 at 6:28 pm Colin could you let me know exactly where you found this article and detached garage ? August 15, 2021 at 10:53 pm https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IFC2018/chapter-12-energy-systems April 30, 2019 at 8:49 am The international fire code 605.11.3.2.4 that states “panels/modules installed shall be located no higher than 3 ft below the ridge to allow for fire department ventilation operations.” significantly decreases the attractiveness of residential solar PV because it applies to both sides of a peaked roof. Our fire chief indicated his crews need access to the peak, would in our case use a ladder truck from the north side of house which is a drive with access for the truck, and needs ability to make a vent hole near the peak, but not necessarily on both sides of the peak. Our 45 degree south facing slope is ideal panel placement in Chicago area (latitude 41 degrees N) and could take a row of panels but for this rule. a flat roof abuts at 5 feet below the ridge, ruling out placement of panels lower on the sloped roof. I suggest this rule could give local fire chief’s latitude to determine which side of the peak they need clear. May 26, 2018 at 3:06 pm Fire classification needs to match what is required, not what is existing. Grounding and bonding is per UL 2703, not UL 703. Fire classification is based on moduke testing to UL 1793, and system testing per 2703. Technically, building steel can only be used for grounding if it is “conneced to the earth” by one of the methods described in NEC 250 (A) (1) or (2). Good article though Tell Us What You Think! Cancel reply Related articles read more >. Array Technologies pushes hail stow capabilities for solar trackers Sitetracker adds new features to operations management software GoodLeap launches virtual power plant solution Polar Racking adds hail protection features to SOL-X tracking system Search solar power world. Top Solar Contractors Most Recent Posts Latest News Items Solar tariffs U.S. manufacturing updates IRA coverage Latest Feature Stories Contractor’s Corner Trends in Solar The Solar Explorer The Solar Policy Scoop IRA Coverage Residential Community Solar SPW’s 2024 Top Products contest Batteries and Storage Electric Vehicle (EV) U.S. solar inverter manufacturers U.S. solar mounting manufacturers U.S. solar panel manufacturers Digital Issues Event Coverage Solar Classrooms Webinars / Digital Events Whitepapers 2023 Winners 2022 Winners Anti-soiling, self-cooling solar panels with heat management technology. The best solar panels on the market. Patented Innovation. Unrivaled Quality. Trusted service., proprietary smart technology. Over their lifetime, Soleeva solar panels produce 15-25% more energy than competitors. (We have the patents to prove it.)  Built to Outlast Our panels last an average of 5-10 years longer.  Full-Service Support Soleeva solar panels are backed by the longest 25-year production warranty on the market.  Innovation is at our core. All solar panels are not the same. In fact, no one’s are like ours. Our patented technology makes our solar panels superior, and at the same time, less costly to maintain. Air-Cooled Technology Feature one, soleeva coolair tm technology. Solar panels need sunlight – but too much heat causes inefficiency. Soleeva’s proprietary air-cooled technology lowers the operating temperature of our solar panels, which allow them to produce the highest energy output. This means our panels produce 15-25% more power over the lifetime of the panels. 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Another reason that Soleeva panels consistently produce up to 25% more energy than competitors is our patented heat management technology. It effectively removes the unwanted heat that decreases power conversion efficiency – and can even damage solar cells. This technology is inherent in all of our products. We believe everyone deserves the most from their investment in solar energy. Add Backup Batteries Including back-up batteries with a solar system has always been a smart choice for those who want true energy independence. Backup batteries ensure you always have access to stored solar energy during all weather conditions and emergencies. Reliable Power With battery back-up, stay powered through all weather, emergencies, or grid outages. Increase ROI With battery storage, you can choose to sell energy back to the grid at the most profitable times. Soleeva Anti-Soiling Soleeva’s Skye technology ensures our panels maximize energy production, require minimal maintenance, and maintain proven durability. Consistently produce up to 25% more energy than competitors with our patented heat management technology over panels' lifetime. Air-Cooled Solar Soleeva’s proprietary air-cooled technology lowers the operating temperature of our solar panels for the highest energy output. Life Takes Energy. Power Yours With solar from soleeva.. Tax credits and smart financing options lower monthly bills.  Low Maintenance Our anti-soiling, self-cooling panels take care of themselves. Our 25-year production warranty plus energy storage via backup batteries make unexpected power outages a thing of the past. Value-Adding High-quality solar systems enhance your home’s resale value. We power life and work with Expertise and care.. Residential Homeowners For energy consumers who care about the details, Soleeva provides leading edge solar innovation, superior value, and knowledgeable support for the life of your panels.  Commercial Businesses Soleeva helps conscientious business owners gain total control over their energy consumption and costs.  Farms and Agricultural Farmers know the power of the sun. Solar energy optimizes farm operations and revenue. We Make Good Energy Soleeva customers are happy customers. Our authentic commitment to service and excellence is backed by the longest warrantees on the market and stellar five-star customer reviews.  Garry Gerardo Welcome to a Lifetime of Affordable energy. Smart financing options allow you to take control of energy costs. Custom solar plans to fit every budget Credit and non-credit financing options Tax credit and tax benefits maximize savings Solar Insights Wildfire Preparedness What is the Best Roof for Solar? The Global Shift to Clean Energy: Why You Need a Solar Provider Solar Tech Trends Will Affect Solar Roofs Development Your solar questions, answered.. Have solar questions? We have answers. Dust and biofilms cause energy loss in solar panels and lower production by blocking sunlight from reaching the solar cells. Soil and algae build up on panels, and over time, harden on the surface. Soiling accumulation over time can significantly reduce the amount of energy produced by solar panels and the effect is additive over time. This is the reason that solar panels require periodic cleaning and maintenance. Soleeva Skye anti-soiling technology does the work for you. Soleeva Skye anti-soiling technology is a glass surface treatment that can be chemically-engineered onto our solar panels. It is a unique, non-toxic, and industry-leading option available only to Soleeva Energy clients. It was developed by us to reduce the energy losses that occur when decreased sunlight reaches photovoltaic cells due to atmospheric soiling of solar panels. The transparent surface treatment uses sunlight and moisture from the air to attack and break carbon bonds of the organic materials in dirt and convert them into inert gas. This makes greater sunlight available to the solar cells and a higher energy harvest from each solar panel. It also  eliminates the need to get onto the roof to clean the panels 2-3 times a year. Solar panels generate more power when they are cool. Continuous high heat reduces solar panel efficiency as it affects the ability of the panel to harness electrons. It also causes solar panels to degrade more quickly. Self-cooling technology keeps power generation high while lengthening the life of the panels. 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The purpose of this testing is to independently validate the performance of Soleeva’s panels in a controlled area where the panels are subject to a consistent and demanding environment. Real-time, unadjusted performance data is taken at the RETC Pahrump test facility and reported by RETC data servers. This data has confirmed the performance of Soleeva products at very high levels. If your Soleeva solar system needs service, we will take care of it. We won’t push you to a manufacturer to resolve issues. Our customer service team is ready to help when and if you need it. Still have questions? Ready to make good energy. Start powering your world with solar from Soleeva Photovoltaic Module Mounting System Businesses in California by Business Name Solyndra - IronRidge - Sunpods Inc. - Applied Solar, Inc. - Schüco Solar USA - Professional Solar Products - Zep Solar, Inc. - Quick Mount PV - SunPower Corporation - Advanced Solar Energy - AEE Solar, Inc. - Auxin Solar INC - Borrego Solar, Inc. - Borrego Solar, Inc. - Borrego Solar, Inc. - Brittmore Group LLC - California Green Designs - Element Solar LLC - Fortune Energy - Inspired Solar Technologies - ISA Corporation - Mohr Power Solar, Inc. - Orion Solar Racking - REC Solar, Inc. - Siliken Renewable Energy - Silverback Solar - SnapNrack PV Mounting Systems - SOL Components, Inc. - Solar Power Inc. - Solar SpeedRack™, Inc. - Solar Warehouse - Sollega Inc. - Solyndra designs and manufactures photovoltaic systems, comprised of panels and mounting hardware, for the commercial rooftop market. Solyndra employs high volume manufacturing based on proven technologies and processes to meet the needs of the global solar market. Using proprietary cylindrical modules and thin-film technology, Solyndra systems are designed to provide the lowest installed cost per system and the highest solar electrical energy output for typical low slope commercial rooftops. Founded in 2005 and headquartered in Fremont, California, Solyndra operates a state-of-the-art 300, 000 square foot fully-automated manufacturing complex. IronRidge was founded in 1996 with a clear mission: set a new standard for value, reliability, and quality in solar mounting systems. IronRidge is a trusted provider to residential solar system contractors, commercial installers, industrial system integrators, and many others. Sunpods Inc. SunPods designs and manufactures standardized factory-built, ground mount solar arrays that install in up to 90 percent less time over traditional systems. The SunPods units are delivered to the project site complete with solar modules, power adjustable legs, wiring, and inverters on a 90 gauge steel frame. Options for EV car charging stations or battery storage for off grid or energy back-up applications are also available. Once delivered to the solar site, the SunPods units are connected and can scale up to a utility-size solar farm. The non-ground penetrating arrays are self-ballasted and reduce or eliminate on-site preparation and construction. With SunPods, solar installers, integrators, and general or electrical contractors can instal... Applied Solar, Inc. Applied Solar, Inc. is a Next-Generation Solar Energy company that develops solar energy solutions, innovative solar products and energy management applications. Applied Solar's award-winning products include proprietary, cost-competitive and attractive BIPV solar tiles, membranes and asphalt/composition products. In addition, the EcoTouch™ Energy Management System gives consumers control over their energy usage while saving money. Schüco Solar USA Professional solar products. Professional Solar Products (ProSolar) is the original patent holding U.S. manufacturer of the RoofTrac® "Top-Down" solar mounting system. ProSolar provides the best value to the solar industry in terms of quality, price, and service. ProSolar is preferred by all major U.S. installation companies. ProSolar has been manufacturing solar equipment for over 20 years, longer than any other PV mounting manufacturer. Zep Solar, Inc. Our mission at Zep Solar is to advance the proliferation of solar energy through cleverly designed products that optimize the efficiency of such precious resources as time, money, materials, space, and energy while providing our customers with quality products and services. Zep Solar is here to make the jobs of solar installers easier, safer, and more profitable - and, in so doing, to provide a major reduction in the cost of solar power systems. Quick Mount PV Quick Mount PV is the industry standard for 100% code-compliant, waterproof solar roof mounts. The company pioneered roofing industry best practices in the solar industry and provides ongoing training opportunities to designers, inspectors, distributors and installers of Quick Mount PV products. The Classic Composition and Classic Shake Mounts are ICC-certified, and the QBase Comp, QBase Universal Tile, and QBase Low Slope Mounts feature the strongest mechanical roof attachment available. In 2012, Quick Mount PV introduced Quick Hook USA®, the industryâ s first flashed tile hook mount. Made in the USA. SunPower Corporation Advanced solar energy, aee solar, inc.. AEE Solar, formerly Alternative Energy Engineering, has been a leading wholesale supplier of renewable energy equipment, including PV, hydro and wind systems, plus all balance-of-system items, since 1979. Auxin Solar INC Auxin Solar produce Made in USA solar panels which are ARRA compliant products. Our products are UL, CUL, CE, and IEC(TUV) certified. Auxin is an ISO 9001:2008 certified company. Please visit our website for our product specs. We also do OEM services. Borrego Solar, Inc. With lower costs and higher incentives, Borrego Solar Systems now services most of Southern and Northern California. Our in-house staff and our partnerships with leading photovoltaic manufacturers allows us to provide competitive pricing, engineering support, and system maintenance above and beyond the competition. Borrego Solar Systems is committed to providing the most appropriate photovoltaic system for your home or business. Quality consulting and installation services are provided in a hassle-free environment. At Borrego Solar, our approach is threefold: ~ To educate you about how solar power works and the benefits to you and the environment. ~ To design a high-performing system that is customized to your site and needs.To provide you ... With lower costs and higher incentives, Borrego Solar Systems now services most of Southern and Northern California. Our in-house staff and our partnerships with leading photovoltaic manufacturers allows us to provide competitive pricing, engineering support, and system maintenance above and beyond the competition. Borrego Solar Systems is committed to providing the most appropriate photovoltaic system for your home or business. Quality consulting and installation services are provided in a hassle-free environment. At Borrego Solar, our approach is threefold: ~ To educate you about how solar power works and the benefits to you and the environment. ~ To design a high-performing system that is customized to your site and needs. ~ To provide y... Since 1980 Borrego Solar has been servicing California, New England and the Mid Atlantic regions. Our in-house staff, financial backing and our partnerships with leading photovoltaic manufacturers allow us to provide the highest quality EPC services at competitively priced rates. Borrego Solar is committed to providing the most appropriate photovoltaic system for your business or municipality. Quality consulting and installation services are provided in a hassle-free environment. At Borrego Solar, our four-pronged approach is: education, customization, reliability and quality customer service. Brittmore Group LLC California green designs, element solar llc. Wholesale distributor of solar energy products. Specializing in Crown Renewable Energy solar modules. Fortune Energy We are Fortune Energy, a forward thinking solar company created in 2009, to bring top tier wholesale solar/PV products directly to solar industry professionals. We specialize in being a low cost solar distributor and supplier. From the beginning of your experience with Fortune Energy we provide an account manager to support your needs, starting with the design phase, all the way through project completion and follow-up. Our account managers support you so your projects run smoothly, with utmost attention to efficiency of your time and energy. We strive to provide the highest quality low cost solar panels, inverters, racking, BOS, and solar monitoring products for you. Fortune Energy sets itself apart from others by offering our turn-key ser... Inspired Solar Technologies Isa corporation, mohr power solar, inc.. Mohr Power Solar, Inc. is a full service solar electric, pool and water heating contractor. Since 1982 we have sold and serviced all brands of solar electric, pool and water heating products. We are considered to be the leading experts in solar electric, pool and water heating system design and installation. 25 yrs and 35 thousand costumers speaks for it self. We are here to help you with all your solar electric, pool and water heating needs. Orion Solar Racking Rec solar, inc.. REC Solar, Inc. specializes in grid-tied solar electric design and installation, offering affordable solar solutions for all residential and commercial customers. Headquartered in San Luis Obispo, CA, REC Solar has grown to become the largest solar installer in the US, installing more systems than any other company. REC Solar currently has over a dozen offices throughout 6 states (AZ, CA, CO, HI, OR and NJ). Call us today and ask for a free evaluation and financial analysis to determine if solar is right for your home or business! Siliken Renewable Energy Silverback solar, snapnrack pv mounting systems. SnapNrack was developed in the field by a team of veteran solar engineers and installers with the goal of overcoming the limitations of conventional racking and ensuring quick, efficient installations. SOL Components, Inc. Solar power inc.. U.S.-based, SPI owns and operates its own manufacturing facility in Shenzhen, China. SPI designs, produces and installs complete systems featuring SPI components that have been engineered to work optimally with one another in a variety of system types while meeting the most critical and demanding of requirements. All SPI systems are seamless solutions that deliver highly efficient electric output and a lifetime of superior performance. Solar SpeedRack™, Inc. Solar SpeedRack® Shared Rail system and self-grounded products are designed to reduce the cost, time, and hardware used in the installation of solar systems Solar SpeedLatch and Solar SpeedMount Shared Rail systems fits all PV panel sizes with frame heights between 30mm to 50mm, requires little to no tools or additional parts for installation, and is perfect for all residential and commercial applications. Solar SpeedMount utility rails are custom designed to client's project needs and offer same easy installation as the rest of Solar SpeedRack® products. Solar Warehouse Solar Warehouse (SWH) is a manufacturer and wholesaler of UL Listed PV and solar racking / mounting for all types of roofs at extremely economical cost. Sollega Inc. Additional Business Listings Not Listed? Add your business listing to the Source Guides business directory Can't Find It? Search the entire Source Guides site using keywords: Momentum Technologies LLC ©1995-2016 All Rights Reserved 464 IMAGES Mounting Solar Panels on a Small Boat How to Install Solar Panels on a Sailboat How to mount your solar panels on the pushpit Choosing Solar Panels for your Boat or RV Sailboat Solar How To Sailboat Solar Panel Installation VIDEO Solar Panel Sailboat Install #sailinglife #sailboat #boat S2 E18 1983 Catalina C 30 Solar Panel Upgrade Part 2 + Seafood Paella & Doobie Brothers Concert Learning to add Solar Power to a Sailboat. Part 1 Putting More Solar Panels on the Sailboat for a better Sailboat Life ⛵️ 🌞 Captain's Vlog 26 Welding and Installing a Solar Panel on a Sailboat DIY: Make a solar powered E-bike by mounting 2 solar panels on the rear rack COMMENTS Low priced solar panel mount Free shipping on qualified orders. Free, easy returns on millions of items. Find deals and low prices on solar panel mount at Amazon.com Solar Panel Mount Sailboat On eBay Free Shipping Available On Many Items. Buy On eBay. Money Back Guarantee. But Did You Check eBay? Check Out Solar Panel Mount Sailboat On eBay. Simple, strong solar panel mounting hardware for boats Option 1: Low and lean. We designed our saddle-type post and fork mounts with solar panels in mind. They give you easy, secure mounts for a solar panel frame that won't draw attention to itself. The saddle fittings bolt onto the top of the frame through the canvas of your bimini top or dodger. Rails running fore and aft create the base, and ... Mounting Solar Panels on a Small Boat Researching solar panels for the first time in 13 years, we discovered that much had changed. Panels produced higher output for their size, but larger panels were being manufactured to meet the ever-growing demands of boaters. Our usage had actually decreased over time as our three children grew up and moved off the boat, and the space allotted ... Robust Marine Solar Panel Mounting Kits for sailboats, powerboats CMP10100 Panel Mount and Pole - Standard. $. 1,549.00. This panel mounting kit is designed for a solar panel under 27 inches wide including the CMPower 140 watt panel. The kit includes a 66 inch long 1.5 inch OD stainless steel pole, all pole mounting hardware, the panel tilt mechanism and all panel mounting hardware. Marine Solar Panels for Sailboats Mounting solar panels on a sailboat was not difficult, but a few key decisions made a huge difference in how effective our panels were. A solar-power installation on a sailboat is made up of two independent systems: one system to charge the batteries, and another system to provide 120-volt AC power for household appliances. In the charging ... How to Install Solar Panels on a Sailboat Another factor you'll need to consider is the size of your boat battery bank. In general, a 100Ah deep cycle battery will need 180 watts of solar to fully charge, assuming you have at least four hours of sunlight a day. Thus, if you have a 200Ah battery bank, you'll need at least 360 watts of solar. In this case, two 200-watt panels would ... The Complete Guide to Solar Panel Mounts for Boats (and ... The Renogy Adjustable Tilt Mount Bracket mount enables the solar panel to be adjusted to directly face the sun, a feature commonly used when the boat is still. For the liveaboard boater, the adjustable mount is crucial. By adjusting the angle of the panels, you can increase the input of energy by up to 40 percent. Sailboat Solar Systems and How-To He's been living aboard and renovating the boat for the past 3.5 years We're excited to show you the transformation as well as how he plans to propel the boat without the use of diesel or fossil fuels! 5280w Solar System for Electric Powered Catamaran. 16 Rigid solar panels (330w each) 20kwh of Lithium Batteries. What You Need To Know About Boat Solar Panels A 10-watt horizontally mounted panel should generate between 3- and 5-amp hours per day. We'll need at least 13 volts to fully charge our 12-volt battery. As most solar cells generate at least 0.45 volts, you'll want a panel with a minimum of 33 cells, which should provide around 14.85 volts. Sailboat Solar Panel Installation It provides a guide for installing solar panels on a boat, including factors to consider, such as panel size and type, positioning, mounting locations, wiring, choosing a charge controller, and maintenance. Solar panels on boats are beneficial for powering various systems like rotors, autopilots, navigation lights, and radio systems, reducing ... Best Solar panels for off-grid power and keeping batteries charged Giosolar 1,000W flexible solar panel. Best flexible boat solar panel. Delivering a mighty kilowatt of power, (not far off the amount used by a one bedroom house), this Giostar package comprises ten separate 100W panels, each of which is 1,050 x 540 x 2.5mm in size. Capable of charging either 12 or 24V batteries, a kit of this magnitude is one ... Sailing with solar power: A practical guide THE AVAILABLE SPACE. In practical terms, a modern 40ft monohull would have the space for around 1,200W of PV panels (cockpit arch, sprayhood top, deck), maybe 1,500W with the addition of a few portable panels for use at anchor. The 1,200W of fixed position solar array could produce around 360Ah on a sunny summer's day (zero shading) or more ... Boat Solar Panel DIY Guide This video shows you our DIY boat solar panel installation - without welding, pipe bending or using any expensive tools! 🔔 SUBSCRIBE http://bit.ly/SBYouTu... Know how: Installing Solar Panels Output Discrepancies. There's often confusion as to how much power you can harvest from a solar installation. A PV panel is nearly always advertised stating its theoretical peak output power (Pw), but in reality, on a sailboat where there are limited areas in which to mount them, they will more likely produce a maximum of 60 percent of their peak output if mounted horizontally and 80 percent ... Securing Your Solar Panels The simplest mounting method for rigid panels is directly to the deck using z-brackets, studs, or glue-on brackets. If mounting to frame above davits or a Bimini top run -inch x 2-inch aluminum bar crosswise under the panel, attach it to the factory-supplied mounting holes, and then attach with rail clamps or brackets (photos 1 & 2). Flat panels. Solar panels for boats: an easy installation guide. 4. Attach the wires to a solar panel controller (see photo below) 5. Attach a new set of the same style of marine grade wires from the controller to your battery. 6. The red (positive) goes on the Positive terminal, the black (negative) goes on the Negative terminal. 7. Top 3 Best Solar Panels For Sailboats Nature Power Rigid. The nature power rigid is a large, powerful, single solar panel. If you are looking for the right panels to power your entire boat comfortably, these are the ones for you. They are very large so they will need a large flat surface area. alternatively, they can be hung vertically from rails. The Different Types of Solar Panels for Boats Semi-Flexible Solar Panels. Semi-flexible solar panels offer a middle ground between traditional rigid and thin-film options. These panels feature a thin layer of solar cells embedded in a flexible plastic or polymer material. Semi-flexible panels can conform to curved surfaces, making them suitable for mounting on boat decks, cabins, or sails. How to Easily Install Solar Panels on a Tiny Sailboat Have you ever wondered how your suposed to install solar panels on a sailboat? This is how i did it with a few simple steps.Support me by becoming a member o... Sailboat Arch Allows you to mount solar panels anywhere on your arch. Kit contains (2) 65" lengths of 1" x 2" x 1/8" rectangular aluminum tube, (4) plastic end caps, (8) Curved Washers, and all hardware needed for installation. ... Individual Adjust-O-Launcher aluminum rod holders can be mounted anywhere on the perimeter of the Sail Arch framework. A unique ... Solar Panel Tilt Angle Calculator Tip: Use our solar panel tilt angle calculator at the top of the page to get an angle to use as your starting point in PVWatts. I did this and got 28.6° which I rounded up to 29°. 4. Note the estimated system output. At 29° tilt, this solar power system at my location would generate an estimated 5,809 kWh per year. 5. Know your codes for solar mounting National Electrical Code. NEC 690 defines electrical safety requirements for PV systems. Equipment grounding required: Exposed non-current-carrying metal parts of PV module frames, electrical equipment and conductor enclosures must be grounded. Structure as equipment grounding conductor: Devices listed and identified for grounding the metal ... Soleeva Soleeva CoolAir TM Technology. Solar panels need sunlight - but too much heat causes inefficiency. Soleeva's proprietary air-cooled technology lowers the operating temperature of our solar panels, which allow them to produce the highest energy output. This means our panels produce 15-25% more power over the lifetime of the panels. Photovoltaic Module Mounting System Businesses in California by Solyndra designs and manufactures photovoltaic systems, comprised of panels and mounting hardware, for the commercial rooftop market. ... IronRidge was founded in 1996 with a clear mission: set a new standard for value, reliability, and quality in solar mounting systems. IronRidge is a trusted provider to residential solar system contractors ... catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat trimaran yacht