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E.U. Leadership Team, With Several Women, Takes Shape

Ursula von der Leyen, the president of the European Commission, gave the most influential portfolios to nominees from France, Italy and Spain.

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By Jenny Gross

Reporting from Brussels

Ursula von der Leyen, the European Commission president, announced her new team on Tuesday to lead the European Union’s executive arm, capping a difficult process as she navigates the rise of nationalist, far-right political forces and Europe’s shrinking share of the global economy.

Ms. von der Leyen assigned top positions to leaders including Stéphane Séjourné of France, Spain’s Teresa Ribera and Italy’s Raffaele Fitto, solidifying the influential role that Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni of Italy, whose party has long been skeptical of the E.U. , plays in determining European policymaking.

“The only guiding star is the European interest,” Ms. von der Leyen said on Tuesday, speaking from the European Parliament in Strasbourg.

Mr. Séjourne will oversee industrial strategy, Ms. Ribera will be in charge of competition policy and the transition to a cleaner economy, and Mr. Fitto of Italy will take control of issues involving the European Union’s single market, the zone where European goods and services can flow without internal borders.

The European Commission has 27 commissioners, with one for each member state. The commissioners act much like national ministers and shape policy affecting E.U. member countries in areas including health, economy and trade for the bloc. The proposed appointments require approval from the European Parliament, a process that is expected to take weeks.

In her second term, Ms. von der Leyen must balance her priorities in office — providing support to Ukraine, bolstering European defense and reshaping the economy so the bloc it can better compete with the United States and China — while presiding over a continent that has titled to the right and is skeptical of concentrating more power in Brussels.

About 40 percent of the commissioners, or 11 commissioners, were women, up significantly from what members states originally proposed. Ms. von der Leyen said she worked intensely with member states to boost the representation of women.

“It shows that as much as we have achieved, there is still so much more work to do,” she said. Of the six vice presidents, four are women.

Piotr Serafin of Poland received the crucial budget portfolio, and Magnus Brunner of Austria will oversee migration. Andrius Kubilius of Lithuania will head the newly created portfolio of defense.

Jacob Kirkegaard, a senior fellow at the Peterson Institute in Brussels, said Ms. von der Leyen had sent a clear signal by putting leaders from Baltic countries, which have taken a hard line against Russia for its invasion of Ukraine, in charge of foreign and security policies. He also said that she had assigned a number of commissioners portfolios that were overlapping, which could be problematic.

“I worry that the number of double portfolios will require a very large amount of coordination that may end up taking a lot of time,” Mr. Kirkegaard said. “She is notorious for having run a very top-down commission. When you set up a lot of overlapping portfolios, who is to adjudicate between turf wars? Obviously the president.”

Ms. von der Leyen, a conservative Germany politician, was elected in July to lead the European Commission for a second five-year term, with the backing of greens and liberals. Representatives from nationalist parties, including those aligned with Ms. Meloni, voted against her.

She narrowly won enough backing after elections for the European Parliament in June rewarded centrist conservatives but also increased support for nationalist political groupings farther on the right.

Ms. Meloni, who was the only leader of a major Western European country whose party made significant gains in the June vote, has positioned herself as a bridge between centrists and the far right. Her support remains critical to Ms. von der Leyen.

Ms. von der Leyen also faces the risk that her native Germany, as well as France, the two biggest economies in the European Union, will be consumed by domestic political fissures as nationalist and hard right parties gain.

This may mean Chancellor Olaf Scholz of Germany and President Emmanuel Macron of France have less bandwidth to fight for initiatives that are central to Ms. von der Leyen’s agenda and require increased collaboration between member countries, such as defense.

Jenny Gross is a reporter for The Times in London covering breaking news and other topics. More about Jenny Gross

Study: 43 Million Jobs to Be Impacted by AI in the Next Year

There could be as many as 43 million jobs impacted in the next year in the US alone as AI integration gathers pace.

The Inter-American Development Bank has shared an index that predicts how many jobs will be affected by AI in the coming decade.

Speaking of AI’s impact as a new industrial revolution, the index says that 980 million jobs around the world will be affected in some way as AI replaces some roles .

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Who Will Be Hit Hardest?

The IDB study has catalogued what it calls “occupational exposure” to AI. It looked at 750 professions and then made predictions for one, five and 10-year timeframes. It also breaks data down by sex and education level.

The findings reveal that 28% of the global workforce will be impacted in the first year, but this then rises to 38% in five years and 44% in ten years. In Mexico, this equates to 16 million jobs. However, women and less skilled workers will be disproportionately impacted worldwide.

Gender and Education Key Factors

In the US, workers with less education will be harder hit than those with an Associate or Batchelor’s Degree. The safest jobs are held by employees with master’s degrees, a Doctorate or a professional school qualification.

In Mexico, the impact zone is wider with “middle-class jobs” set to be impacted too.

“Women, in the United States as well as Mexico, are more vulnerable on the three timelines that we studied because they hold more office, administrative, service and support jobs that are vulnerable to AI.” – Eric Parrado, chief economist at the IDB and co-author of the index, told El Pais

Parrado also adds that task automation will have an impact on 40% of women, as compared to 38% of men.

Call to Action

Parrado and team say that the findings are a call to action as “AI could exacerbate global inequality,” and he emphasized that the impact will be swift compared to the industrial revolutions of the past.

“These estimates do not directly correspond to job losses, but they do indicate that a large proportion of occupations are vulnerable, and that there is an opportunity to leverage the jobs that will be most affected. We must have a plan for the impact that AI could have.” – Eric Parrado

The IDB Index though isn’t just a harbinger of doom. Parrado says that AI will boost productivity, and we won’t necessarily see mass lay-offs (although some companies including Dell are slimming down now and pointing to AI as a reason). Instead, AI could create new job opportunities, so we might face a period of “readjustment in the job markets.”

“We recommend a significant investment in education and re-training programs that should focus on developing skills that are complementary to AI, such as in areas of critical thinking, creativity and emotional intelligence.” – Eric Parrado

In April, the President’s Executive Office released a report about increasing AI capacity across the Federal Government called the National AI Talent Surge. It has also published an analysis of “AI-vulnerable occupations” in which it warns that we are already seeing AI having an impact.

The vulnerable roles “correspond to roughly 10% of overall employment in the economy,” it explains. “And, these occupations are already showing some signs of decreasing demand, such as slower employment growth and fewer incoming workers.”

The Council of Economic Advisers will continue to monitor and analyze, the report says; but the IDB, among others, suggest re-education and re-training are needed now.

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Generations of workers coveted Boeing jobs. Strike reveals how much has changed.

The seattle area boomed as boeing wrung concessions from unionized workers, making them feel left behind..

Ariel McKenzie recalls that it was a big deal when her father landed a job at Boeing 20 years ago. So when he suggested she also join the company, it seemed like a smart move: Working at the company had given her dad and the other Boeing long-timers a good life, paying for roomy houses, nice trucks, motorbikes and vacations.

But after a decade making aircraft parts at a factory in Auburn, Wash., McKenzie, 35, said the job hasn’t given her the same financial boost.

“It’s a very comfortable upper-middle-class family that these Boeing jobs used to create. … It’s just not the case anymore,” McKenzie said. Only working a second job or logging massive overtime hours could match it, she said. “It feels demoralizing.”

Generations of workers coveted Boeing jobs in the Seattle area, where the company was founded over a century ago and helped usher in the age of global air travel. Going to work in its cavernous factories promised economic security and the pride of working on the world’s most iconic planes: the ubiquitous 737, the giant 747 Jumbo Jet and the high-tech 787 Dreamliner. The economic benefits passed down within families, as children and grandchildren landed jobs with the aerospace giant.

But many of the 33,000 workers who went on strike last week after rejecting the company’s four-year contract offer said that sense of shared prosperity has all but evaporated in the past two decades. Company managers, focused on financial performance, won costly concessions from the union including ending traditional pensions and wage increases that have not kept pace with inflation. At the same time, the Puget Sound region experienced a tech boom that has sent housing costs skyrocketing.

Reeling from the blows, bitter Boeing employees say they have been left behind even as executives claimed huge pay packages.

The strike that began Friday, the first for Boeing in 16 years, comes at a pivotal moment for the jet manufacturer as a new chief executive tries to chart a course out of a deep crisis in the wake of two 737 Max crashes five years ago that killed 346 people and January’s midair door-panel blowout on an Alaska Airlines jet that renewed scrutiny of manufacturing and safety failures .

Boeing said Monday it is preserving cash with a hiring freeze and other measures during the strike, which analysts say could last two to five weeks. Negotiations, with the assistance of a federal mediator, were scheduled to resume Tuesday.

Factory workers say they’re ready to help the company achieve excellence again — if they get a favorable contract that makes up for years of labor tensions.

“This is about addressing the past, and this is about fighting for our future,” Jon Holden, the president of International Association of Machinists and Aerospace Workers District 751, said as he announced the vote to strike.

That past includes what many workers now see as a 20th-century golden age, with the launch of the 707 in the 1950s heralding the beginning of the jet era. But it has also seen more recent rounds of divisive labor negotiations that led to the machinists narrowly voting to give up their pensions in 2014. The offer Boeing machinists rejected Thursday included 25 percent wage increases over four years and improved health and retirement benefits. But the raises were less than what many workers had hoped. The deal eliminated a bonus program, and it didn’t restore fixed-benefit pensions, which have been phased out across much of the United States in favor of contributions to 401(k) stock plans.

The average pay for Boeing machinists has risen roughly 15 percent over the last decade to $75,000, a pace that is far behind soaring costs in the Seattle area, according to figures provided by the union and company. The region’s housing price index rose 128 percent in the last decade; the average home sale price in Seattle last month was $835,000.

Asked about workers’ shifting views of their prosperity, Boeing said the average pay for union members in Washington and Oregon would have topped $106,000 by the end of the contract, before overtime. The company also pointed to education benefits it offers, including allowances for college programs.

Despite its challenges, Boeing remains a global behemoth, with just one major competitor, Europe’s Airbus. It has a backlog of 5,400 commercial planes on order, valued at $437 billion.

McKenzie’s dad, who worked in machine maintenance before taking on a full-time role with the machinists union, touted Boeing’s benefits in 2014 to his daughter. For a single mom with a young daughter, she said the money was good at first — perhaps as much as she could have made as a nurse. So she stayed. But with inflation, McKenzie said her income hasn’t kept up.

Now McKenzie’s own daughter is 15, and McKenzie said she couldn’t picture recommending the job to her.

“It makes me kind of sad that’s the case,” she said. “These jobs have fed families in this community for generations and generations and generations, and most people now don’t want to recommend their kids to go and work there.”

While Boeing has its own unique troubles, people in factory jobs around the country, especially at the big automakers , have seen only limited gains in wages and the erosion of their benefits. Pay for most manufacturing jobs had fallen behind pay for all private sector jobs by 2018, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics.

“What makes the decline in wages and conditions in factory work particularly striking is that factory jobs used to be good,” said Eric Blanc, an assistant professor of labor studies at Rutgers University. “You used to be able to have what was considered a middle-class life.”

Blanc said the surging wealth in the Seattle area, driven by the likes of Microsoft and Amazon, and the accompanying soaring housing costs magnify the impact on Boeing workers.

Mylo Lang, 24, recalled how his grandfather sustained a middle-class lifestyle on a Boeing janitor’s pay, living in a home in a middle-class part of Seattle. Lang stayed in that home in his own early days working at Boeing, helping him get on his feet. But, he said, as an apprentice machinist at a parts facility there’s no way he could hope to afford somewhere of his own in the same neighborhood.

“The material conditions available to people are very different now than they were then,” said Lang.

In 2001, Boeing moved its corporate headquarters to Chicago, putting thousands of miles between the people who built its airplanes and those making decisions at the highest levels. Since then, it has used the threat of moving jobs elsewhere to wring concessions from the union. The company decided in 2009 to open a production line for its 787 Dreamliner in South Carolina, a step the National Labor Relations Board alleged was taken to avoid labor unrest and was “inherently destructive” of workers’ rights. Then, in negotiations in 2011, it raised the prospect of manufacturing the new 737 Max outside of the Seattle area.

The next round of bargaining, in 2014, was especially contentious. The company said it might move work on a new version of the 777 out of the state and pressed workers to give up the traditional pensions that guaranteed them a steady income in retirement. Union members narrowly backed the deal and took a strike off the table until its expiration this year.

“Boeing’s track record of engaging with its workforce has not been successful over the last two decades,” said Michel Merluzeau, director of aerospace and defense market analysis at AIR Intelligence and Research. “The relationship has been excessively transactional in nature.”

The question of where to build Boeing’s next airplane was again a factor in the current negotiations with the machinists. The offer workers rejected last week included a commitment to the Seattle area, but with plans for a new plane still hazy, some employees said the guarantee was worth little.

While younger workers say they’re struggling, 65-year-old Francis King remembers a different Boeing. King has worked at the company for 37 years and recalled how it was a place people came to build a long career. King is approaching retirement, but his son is preparing to start work at Boeing in November, and he’s seen younger workers take the view that “it’s a job, it’s not a career.”

“When I was hired on, buying a house was in sight. Buying a car. Living in this area,” King said. “Who wouldn’t want to come here? Then the tide turned.”

Like both analysts and longtime workers, King traces the change to Boeing’s 1997 merger with McDonnell Douglas. It was a smaller company, but its management team rose to power at Boeing, bringing with it a new focus on financial performance.

Workers have denounced what they call exorbitant executive compensation. Dave Calhoun, the former Boeing chief executive who stepped down this year in the wake of the Alaska door-panel blowout, received a $32.8 million compensation package last year.

In recent months, the company, after agreeing to plead guilty to defrauding U.S. regulators in connection with 737 Max crashes in Indonesia and Ethiopia, has vowed to put a greater emphasis on safety and quality. Robert “Kelly” Ortberg, who took over as chief executive in August and stands to make $22 million next year, is an engineer and spent his first day at the 737 factory just outside Seattle. The company is also moving to acquire Spirit AeroSystems, a key supplier that was once a part of Boeing but spun out in an efficiency drive. Securing a labor deal was a key next step in Boeing’s recovery, analysts say, and a prolonged strike will prove costly.

Members of Seattle’s Boeing families, even while on strike, say they want the company’s stature restored. Machinist Jeremy Caldon followed his grandfather and uncle to work at Boeing more than 15 years ago.

“I always wanted to work at Boeing because he was there,” he said of his grandfather, who was a member of the engineers’ union. “Because they gave him a great life there. It was something to do, something to honor.”

Travel Tips to Kabardino-Balkaria: More than Mt. Elbrus!

If you’ve traveled to the North Caucasus before, there is a good chance you’ve already been to Kabardino-Balkaria, and you didn’t even know it!  Kabardino-Balkaria lies in the center of the North Caucasus region, is home to Mt. Elbrus, but more than that is a treasure chest of travel possibilities.  Here is our guide to traveling through the republic of Kabardino-Balkaria, or 9 travel tips to this beautiful land:

1. How do I get there?

Kabardino-Balkaria hosts a large number of both foreign and Russian travelers every year, and has an improving infrastructure able to handle the incoming masses.  Let’s start with the obvious.  You might be a mountain climber or skier coming to enjoy the slopes of Mt. Elbrus.  That means you’re likely arriving on an airplane to Russia.  Here are your travel options:

A. Plane – We advise you fly into the Mineralni Vodi (MRV) airport in the Stavropol Region, which is about 45 minutes from the border of Kabardino-Balkaria.  MRV is the largest airport in the North Caucasus, and has daily direct flights to and from all 3 airpots in Moscow (SVO, DME, and VKO), direct flights from St. Petersburg, and several international flight routes as well, including from Istanbul, Dubai, Greece, Tel Aviv, and Bishkek.  The MRV airport has a growing infrastructure and is the most obvious choice to fly into if going to Elbrus.  From MRV, it’s a 2 hr. drive to Nalchik, and a 3.5 hr. drive to Mt. Elbrus.

That being said, the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria, Nalchik (NAL), also has a small regional airport with a daily flight to/from Moscow as well as weekly flights to Istanbul. As is to be expected in most smaller, regional airports around Russia, the service standard at a small airport like this will be minimal.  As a result, we recommend you flying in and out of MRV if able.  It’s a 2 hr. drive to Elbrus from Nalchik.  You can also fly into other regional airports which are 2 hrs. from Nalchik, such as OGZ in North Ossetia (Vladikavkaz) or IGT in Ingushetia (Magas).

B.  Car/Public Transport – If you have a car, are using a taxi, or are hitch-hiking your way to Kabardino-Balkaria, the region is accessible by a variety of roads and vehicles.  A major Russian federal highway E50 runs through Pyatigorsk into Kabardino-Balkaria, and can take you towards Mt. Elbrus, Nalchik, and deeper into the North Caucasus.  There are daily mini-buses, or “marshrutkas”, that travel to Nalchik from Pyatigorsk, Vladikavkaz, Grozny, and Magas, if you’re coming from a neighboring republic.  From the main Nalchik bus station, there is a marshrutka that goes to Terskol (i.e. Mt. Elbrus) daily around 12:30 pm; for that matter,  marshrutkas run daily into every valley of this beautiful republic.  For the seasoned international traveler, you can drive from the country of Georgia up the famed “Georgian Military Highway” through the heart of the Caucasus Mountains, cross the border into Russia at the “Verkhni Lars” border stop, and be in Nalchik in about 2.5 hours as well. 

Anyone traveling on their own should download the “Yandex” taxi app, which is Russia’s version of Uber, and has a very user-friendly app with affordable prices.  In smaller villages/towns where Yandex’s service doesn’t reach, just ask a local and they’ll direct you to a friend or relative who can taxi you where you need to go!

C.  Train – Kabardino-Balkaria is also very accessible by the famous cross-country Russian train system if that’s your preferred method of travel.  Almost all trains to the North Caucasus pass through Mineralni Vodi in the Stavropol region to the north, so make sure wherever you are coming from, Mineralni Vodi is one of the stops.  Despite Nalchik having a train station, the city is about 45 minutes from the main railway route that runs diagonal through the North Caucasus, and as a result it’s a bit convoluted to get a train directly to Nalchik.  That being said, the town Prokhladni is a regular stop on trains going to/coming from Baku, Makhachkala, Grozny, Nazran, and Vladikavkaz, so you can always hop off there and find your way by public transport or taxi.

2.  What are the best places to stay?

This list could get exhaustive, fast. 🙂  Let’s first look at an overview of the republic’s geography, followed by hotel recommendations:

A. Nalchik – This is the capital city of Kabardino-Balkaria, with a population of around 250,000.  Nalchik is growing and new, modern hotels are being built regularly.  Here are some of our recommendations:

-Modern and comfortable:  Azimut , Butik Otel

-Budget with less frills:  Hotel Rossia , Korona

You could comfortably spend a week in Nalchik, while doing day trips into Kabardino-Balkaria’s beautiful mountain valleys.

B.  Baksan Valley – This is the most traveled road in Kabardino-Balkaria, the road to Mt. Elbrus.  If you have questions about its safety because of travel warnings, please see our detailed blog here of the drive to erase any doubts or fears.  Needless to say, because of the draw of Mt. Elbrus, there are a huge variety of lodging options at the end of this valley, from 4-star to mid-range to budget to hostel.  Here are just a few we’ll recommend from our experience:

-Modern and comfortable 4-star-ish:  Azau Star , Kristall 139

-Budget with less frills 3-star-ish:   Laguna , Povorot

If you’re a mountain climber with your sites set on the summit of Elbrus, you’ll have to spend at least 3-4 nights at Elbrus’s famous base camp at 13,000 feet.  The “barrel huts” are not easy to book directly with, and we highly recommend you do your climb (and hence, have your bookings handled) through a trusted climbing company.  Here are two shelters at base camp we recommend:

-Modern and comfortable:  Leaprus

-Budget with less frills:  Heart of Elbrus Lodge

If you’re interested in climbing Mt. Elbrus and staying in these barrel huts, click  here  to see our climbing itineraries, pricing, and group dates.

C.  Chegem Valley – Chegem Valley is the adjacent valley to Elbrus’s Baksan Valley, and is famous for its beautiful waterfalls as well as being Russia’s top paragliding location.  The “ Paradrome ” has modest accommodations for those wanting to get to know this beautiful valley for a longer period of time.

D.  Upper Balkaria, or Cherek Valley – This is another beautiful mountain gorge not too far from Nalchik.  There is an authentic lodging complex in Upper Balkaria called Tau-El, with amazing local food for meals as well.

E.  Border Zone lodging – Several of Kabardino-Balkaria’s mountain gorges run into the border zone with neighboring country Georgia, i.e. an area that foreigners cannot enter without a special permit from the local government (often taking 2 months to receive).  There is a famous mountaineering lodge in Bezengi Valley, where several generations of Russian mountain climbers have honed their craft in the Caucasus Mountains.  Perpendicular to Baksan Valley (about 25 minutes from the base of Mt. Elbrus) is Adyr-Suu Valley, where there is a lodge for back-country skiers to stay, while trying their hands (and feet!) on the untouched snow of that valley.  Both these valleys require border permits for foreigners, but are possible to access for the more adventurous!

3.  Top cities to visit?

Most locals would agree that Nalchik is the main city of significance to visit in Kabardino-Balkaria, but let’s be honest, even more would say, “Just go to the mountains!”  Tirnauz is the capital of the Elbrus district, and is an interesting town to spend some time in, with its unique location in the mountains and place in Soviet history as a once-booming mining town.  The main thing to consider in visiting Nalchik and other cities in the lowlands, is the chance to experience Kabardian culture and food.  Whereas the deeper you go into the valleys, the more you’ll encounter Balkar culture and food.

4.  Best local foods to try?

There are 3 types of food that come to mind, when spending time in Kabardino-Balkaria:

A. Khychiny – This is one of the staple national dishes of the Balkar people, and what you’ll inevitably be served if guests of local Balkars.  It’s a thin buttery flat bread, sometimes cooked with fillings of cottage cheese, fresh greens, or potatoes.  It is often slathered in butter, but wow is that some tasty greasy goodness! 🙂

B.  Shashlik – Shashlik is a MUST for any visit anywhere in the North Caucasus!  Most people would agree that it’s the national food of the entire region.  Shashlik is meat shish kabobs; while pork and turkey can be found in some parts of the Caucasus, lamb or chicken are the preferred shashlik meats of choice in Kabardino-Balkaria. 

C.  Soup – No matter where you are in Russia, you’re sure to find a local soup that people love.  Kabardino-Balkaria is no different.  Especially in the winter months in the mountain valleys, there’s nothing better than to come inside from the cold weather and warm your body up to a bowl of hearty Caucasus soup.  Whether Georgian kharcho or local Balkar lakhman, make sure to try your hand at one of these soups with a side of fresh baked bread/lavash!

5.  Top Hole-In-The-Wall restaurants:

Of course, for a republic of this size, we’re bound to leave at least a few great local joints off our list, but here are a few to get you started. ***Note:  Restaurants in the North Caucasus are much better known for their food than their service, so prepare for tasty food, but manage your expectations about service:

-Elbrus – Kogutai Restaurant at Mt. Cheget – While this isn’t a hole-in-the-wall restaurant per se, it’s one of many to choose from in the Cheget tourist village, and we have found them to provide consistently good food and service.  Kogutai has a nice interior, and maybe most important, an English-language menu with good pictures. 🙂  There also is a nice outdoor patio with fantastic views of the surrounding mountains.

-Nalchik #1 – Tameris Restaurant – This is a cafe with a relaxed atmosphere in the capital Nalchik.  Local tour company Elbrus Elevation has taken foreign groups there on multiple occasions and always had good experiences.  Address is ul. Kuliyeva 3. 

-Nalchik #2 – Cafe-Bar Oasis – You have to know where this restaurant is to find it, but once inside, you won’t regret it!  There is a unique cafeteria-style ordering process, that includes several dishes being cooked on the spot once ordered.  You can sample local Kabardian dishes here.  The seating area is very modern and a pleasant atmosphere to have a meal in.  Address is ul. Kuliyeva 2. 

-Upper Balkaria – Tau-El Restaurant – This is the restaurant part of the Tau-El Tourist Complex in Upper Balkaria.  Whether spending the night or just passing through, make sure to stop here for a meal!

6.  Must-See Sites

This republic is so chock full of “must-see” destinations, it’s impossible to narrow the list down.  Here are just a few suggestions to get you started: (***Mt. Elbrus is a no-brainer and we’re assuming that’s on your list)

A. El-Tyubu and Paradrome – This is an amazing area towards the end of Chegem Valley.  Many tourists visit the famous Chegem Waterfalls and don’t drive any further down this gorge, which really is a shame.  El-Tyubu is a picturesque Balkar village with several historical sites to see, including some ancient mausoleums.  The real gem of the area, though, is the Paradrome , which is Russia’s premier paragliding destination.  The combination of the scenic surrounding mountains and constant winds produces almost daily conditions to sail through the beautiful Caucasus sky.  Highly recommend!

B.  Upper Balkaria – Also known as Cherek Valley, the entire drive to the actual village of Upper Balkaria is one big destination.  First, you can spend time at the 3 consecutive “ Blue Lakes ”, one of which is one of Russia’s deepest lakes with an underground spring.  Then, the drive itself becomes an adventure, as you pass by steep rock walls with a huge drop-off on the other side.  If you’re able to walk this part of the road, that is a bonus!  Once you’ve made your way through the valley walls, the region opens up into a beautiful panoramic view.  Many years ago, there were multiple villages in this region, but they’ve since been condensed into one main village.  You can see some of the ancient Balkar towers that their ancestors used to live in as well.

C.  Djili-Suu – Although hard to pronounce and not easy to get to, Djili-Suu is one of those places in the North Caucasus that people rave about that you “have to” visit.  It’s actually on the North side of Mt. Elbrus, and more accessible from the Mineral Waters region (2 hrs. from Kislovodsk).  The base camp for Elbrus climbers summiting the mountain from the North side is at Djili-Suu.  This area is famous in Russia for its numerous natural healing springs, as well as unique climate conditions that make for beneficial, long holidays for seeking a respite from their daily grind.  There are wide swaths of land available for camping, with probably the most unrivaled views of Mt. Elbrus in the North Caucasus.  Make sure to check this out!

7.  Off-the-beaten path destinations

A. King’s Waterfalls (Tsarskie), or Gedmisht – Probably the valley in Kabardino-Balkaria with the least amount of hype is the Malka Valley, which is the northernmost valley and mainly runs through the Kabardian lowlands.  At the point where the villages end, though (Khabas), the asphalt turns into dirt and the hills start to rise, culminating with the incredible King’s Waterfalls, or as one friend put it, Avatar Waterfalls.  These stunning waterfalls are best visited in the early summer, when everything is lush green and the water flow is strong, with many streams of water flowing down the earth’s surface.  The different colors are incredible and it’s hard to look away.  Once you’ve enjoyed the waterfalls, enjoy a meal of shashlik at one of the nearby lunch huts.  Having an off-road vehicle is ideal to visit these falls, but worth the time and effort!

B.  One-seater chair lift at Elbrus – As the infrastructure at Mt. Elbrus has modernized, some of the more “authentic” experiences have gone to the way-side.  This is one experience still available, though!  From the 2nd (11,000 ft.) to 3rd level (12,500 ft.) of Mt. Elbrus (whether skiing, going to base camp, or just touring), there is a single-seater chair lift for 100 rubles each way (less than $2).  This is an amazing experience if you have the time.  It’s 8-10 minutes each way, and a surreal experience of the majestic Caucasus mountain range surrounding you, skiers silently passing you by underneath, and in general enjoying the silent expanse of nature all around.  The chair lifts are from the Soviet times and so it feels like something from a different era.  For mountain climbers, the newer group cable car gives better access to most of base camp, but several huts are pretty close to this chair lift, so it still may be a good option for you.

C.  Abandoned Mines above Tirnauz – Tirnauz is about 1 hr. from Mt. Elbrus, and a town everyone drives through to and from the mountain.  Although today it looks old and half-abandoned, it was a booming mining town in the 20th century.  About a 45-minute drive above the city with an off-road vehicle, you can see the remains of the mining operations.  Learning about this history combined with the breath-taking views of the Baksan Valley and even into Georgia, you’ll wonder why more people aren’t visiting this place.  This is a great spot to see eagles soaring in the sky, as well as admire the Soviet city plan of Tirnauz from above.

8.  What do I need border zone passes to visit?

In Russia, any area within 5-10 km of a neighboring country, without a clearly delineated border (i.e. in the mountains) is considered a special border zone, and patrolled by Russian border guards.  This area IS accessible to all Russian citizens with their passports, but is NOT legally accessible to foreign citizens UNLESS you have a special permit from the FSB (Federal Security Bureau).  These permits are accessible, either through a tour operator or local friend, but require you to submit your application 45-60 days in advance.

Areas in Kabardino-Balkaria that are worth a visit if you have a border zone pass:

A.  Bezengi Wall – This is at the end of the Bezengi Valley, and holds a place of lore among Russian mountain climbers.  Many mountain guides go through training in this valley.  Five of the Caucasus Mountain’ range’s highest seven peaks are a part of the Bezengi Wall, so you can imagine the draw it has for climbers. There are great areas for trekking and camping in this area. 

B.  Adyr-Suu Gorge – This remote valley runs perpendicular to Baksan Valley and is about 25 minutes from the base of Mt. Elbrus.  It’s marked at the entrance by a relic of the past, a car lift from Soviet days that auto-cranks your car (and you) about 50 meters up the mountain.  After 45-60 minutes of driving on gravel road, the gorge opens up into a flat valley with a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains.  The Adyr-Suu Alpine Lodge is at the end of this valley and where back-country skiers base out of during the acclimatization phase of their Mt. Elbrus ski tours.  This is truly a place where you can experience untouched powder!

C.  Mt. Cheget (Elbrus) – Cheget is a neighboring mountain to Mt. Elbrus and where many climbers will acclimatize, both at its base and while doing some hikes.  It also is famous in Russia for its free-ride terrain for more experienced skiers.  Standard access to the chair lifts and mountain are available to all (i.e. mountain climbers don’t need to worry about accidentally crossing into the zone), but anyone wanting to summit the peak of Cheget OR visit the beautiful Cheget Lake needs a border permit. 

Foreigners violating the border zone areas is considered a serious offense in Russia; make sure to do your due diligence if wanting to visit one of these areas!  We highly recommend using a local tour operator and always traveling with a local person if visiting one of these areas.

9.  Any cultural “do’s” or “don’t’s” to be aware of

Kabardino-Balkaria is a fascinating republic with a combination of traditional and modern society.  The more you interact with local people, the more you’ll see a mixture of Muslim faith, post-Soviet mentality, and ancient local traditions all wrapped together.   

Kabardians mainly live in the lowlands (Nalchik, Baksan, and lowland villages), while Balkars primarily live in the mountain valleys (Elbrus, Chegem, Upper Balkaria, etc.).  There is a large population of Russians in the region as well.  Foreigners visit every area of the region regularly, and so local people are used to and will welcome your presence.

Come with an open mind to learn about these peoples, their traditions, and their land.  You won’t regret your trip to Kabardino-Balkaria!

***Want to learn more?  Here are several self-published resources from the podcast “ CaucasTalk ” related to Kabardino-Balkaria:

– Travel Tips to Kabardino-Balkaria (audio version of this blog)

– History of Mt. Elbrus (Part 1)

– History of Mt. Elbrus (Part 2)

– Interview with Local Elbrus guide

– Climbing Elbrus: Interview with American guide

– Who are the Kabardians? (Part 1)

– Who are the Kabardians? (Part 2)

– Skiing in the North Caucasus (Elbrus and more)

READY TO EXPERIENCE KABARDINO-BALKARIA FOR YOURSELF?

Where to find us.

• +1 704-810-4296
• [email protected]
• 1578 Pine Creek Rd., Gastonia, NC 28056

Travel Information

• We no longer offer travel services to Russia. See Caucasus Quest Tours for new destinations
• Is it Safe to Travel to the Caucasus in 2024?
• Climbing Kazbek & Kilimanjaro: Comparing two 5,000+ meter peaks
• How to Train to climb Mt. Kazbek in Georgia

Our Elbrus Climbing Tours

• Climb Elbrus South Route
• Climb Elbrus North Route
• Climb Elbrus & The Capitals
• Climb Elbrus & The Caucasus

Russia Cultural Tours

• Capitals of Russia
• Lake Baikal on Ice
• Delightful Dagestan
• Heart of the Caucasus

ALL Travel Services to Russia and Mt. Elbrus have been indefinitely suspended as of Feb. 2022.

Explore our new tour branch Caucasus Quest to climb Mt. Kazbek (5,054 meters) in Georgia or for immersive cultural touring experiences in Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan.

HanseYachts AG Career

Working at hanseyachts ag.

Job vacancies, applications and more

Since the company was first established in 1990, around 1,500 jobs have been created at HanseYachts AG. More than half of our employees, who hail from a total of 14 nations between them, work in more than 100 different professions and positions at our headquarters in Greifswald. We offer a variety of jobs, apprenticeships, and internships within of the development, production, and sales of our sailing yachts and motor yachts . Follow a variety of career paths and truly fascinating work placements, apprenticeships and full-time jobs located in an attractive location on Germany’s and Poland’s Baltic coast.

Career opportunities with us are every bit as diverse as the types of job we offer. We are looking for:

• New entrants in specialist and management positions
• Apprentices
• Placement students

Have a look at our current job vacancies to find out whether we have a work placement, apprenticeship, or career that could be of interest to you. Alternatively, you can feel free to send us a speculative application.

HanseYachts AG as an employer

HanseYachts AG is the world’s second-largest manufacturer of sailing yachts. We are among the top ten suppliers in the world for series-production motor yachts. This impressive market position has been made possible by our employees. Our yachts regularly win prizes and international awards, providing compelling evidence of the supreme development and production quality that our boatyard offers. Time and time again, we set new standards in the industry with a host of innovations and novel features. Our company profile provides some initial insight into HanseYachts AG’s strategy and multi-brand portfolio.

Job vacancies

We need specialists and true team players to help develop, manufacture and sell our sailing yachts and motor yachts. As we continue to grow, we are always on the lookout for new skilled workers. With over 100 different professions and positions at our headquarters in Greifswald and at our locations in Hamburg and Goleniów (Poland), we offer varied fields of activity and exciting career prospects. Want to find out more? Have a look at our current job vacancies.

Tips for your application

No matter which job or apprenticeship you’re applying for, we’re looking forward to getting to know you. Here are a few tips for applying to HanseYachts AG:

Covering letter

Tell us why you are applying for that particular position or apprenticeship, why you are suitable for it and what it is about HanseYachts AG that interests you.

Your short CV should provide a concise overview of your personal and professional life to date. We are especially interested in your academic and professional background.

References and qualifications

In particular, we would like to know about your most recent academic accomplishments. If you already have references from employers, please submit them along with your application. If you have any other certificates for qualifications that could be relevant to your new job role or apprenticeship, feel free to submit those as well.

Availability

We will most likely contact you via e-mail. If you would prefer us to get in touch with you by telephone, please mention this in your application.

Salary expectations

Please inform us of your salary expectations in your application for a job vacancy. You do not need to do this if you are applying for a work placement or apprenticeship.

Starting date

We hope that you will be able to join the HanseYachts AG team as soon as possible. Please let us know your earliest possible starting date or your notice period for your current employer, as applicable. Our apprenticeships begin on 1 August every year. 

Data protection

We will handle your documents in the strictest confidence. Only the HR department and the relevant department for the job you have applied for will be able to view your documents. Your data will be deleted immediately once the application process is complete.

One step at a time – your journey into our diverse working environment

In the recruitment process - individually planned for the position, we try to familiarize the candidates with our organization in the best possible way. We pay particular attention to clear information about the scope of duties and details of the offer. We are looking for both qualified specialists and people without experience, whom we train as part of internal training. The moment you submit your application documents via our online form or through the post marks the start of a multi-stage application process.

• As soon as we receive your application, we will send you an acknowledgement to confirm that it has arrived. We will contact you via e-mail or telephone if we have any queries or require any additional documents during the application process.
• Assuming that your documents are all complete, our HR department will compare your qualifications against our job specifications. If everything fits, we will pass your application on to the relevant specialist department to review.
• If your professional profile meets our requirements, we will want to meet you in person. In that case, we will contact you by e-mail or telephone to arrange a phone interview or an initial in-person interview.
• We will then send you written confirmation of the appointment along with some additional important information.
• Your initial interview will be with the person who would be your immediate line manager at the relevant department and an employee from HR.
• If you impress us in your interview, we will invite you to a second interview to provide an opportunity to go into a little more detail on subjects covered in the initial interview and to discuss aspects relating to your employment contract. Vocational apprentices will be invited to take part in a work placement lasting two to three days.
• So, what happens if we think that you would be a good fit for our company? A member of the HR team or a representative of the department in question will give you a call. We will post an employment contract for you to sign, along with some useful information about your new workplace. You are also welcome to come in and sign your contract on the premises if you would prefer.
• If you apply for a job in Poland, you will have to pass a medical examination and provide formal documents in order to sign the contract. During this phase, a trainer or manager will support you. Then you will receive all the necessary materials and work equipment.

Beate Engelbrecht

HanseYachts AG

Ladebower Chaussee 11

17493 Greifswald, Germany

+49 (0)3834 579 2200

bewerbung(at)hanseyachtsag.com