sailboat sail designs

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

What's that sail for? Generally, I don't know. So I've come up with a system. I'll explain you everything there is to know about sails and rigs in this article.

What are the different types of sails? Most sailboats have one mainsail and one headsail. Typically, the mainsail is a fore-and-aft bermuda rig (triangular shaped). A jib or genoa is used for the headsail. Most sailors use additional sails for different conditions: the spinnaker (a common downwind sail), gennaker, code zero (for upwind use), and stormsail.

Each sail has its own use. Want to go downwind fast? Use a spinnaker. But you can't just raise any sail and go for it. It's important to understand when (and how) to use each sail. Your rigging also impacts what sails you can use.

On this page:

Different sail types, the sail plan of a bermuda sloop, mainsail designs, headsail options, specialty sails, complete overview of sail uses, mast configurations and rig types.

This article is part 1 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 2 is all about the different types of rigging. If you want to learn to identify every boat you see quickly, make sure to read it. It really explains the different sail plans and types of rigging clearly.

Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

First I'll give you a quick and dirty overview of sails in this list below. Then, I'll walk you through the details of each sail type, and the sail plan, which is the godfather of sail type selection so to speak.

Click here if you just want to scroll through a bunch of pictures .

Here's a list of different models of sails: (Don't worry if you don't yet understand some of the words, I'll explain all of them in a bit)

• Jib - triangular staysail
• Genoa - large jib that overlaps the mainsail
• Spinnaker - large balloon-shaped downwind sail for light airs
• Gennaker - crossover between a Genoa and Spinnaker
• Code Zero or Screecher - upwind spinnaker
• Drifter or reacher - a large, powerful, hanked on genoa, but made from lightweight fabric
• Windseeker - tall, narrow, high-clewed, and lightweight jib
• Trysail - smaller front-and-aft mainsail for heavy weather
• Storm jib - small jib for heavy weather

I have a big table below that explains the sail types and uses in detail .

I know, I know ... this list is kind of messy, so to understand each sail, let's place them in a system.

The first important distinction between sail types is the placement . The mainsail is placed aft of the mast, which simply means behind. The headsail is in front of the mast.

Generally, we have three sorts of sails on our boat:

• Mainsail: The large sail behind the mast which is attached to the mast and boom
• Headsail: The small sail in front of the mast, attached to the mast and forestay (ie. jib or genoa)
• Specialty sails: Any special utility sails, like spinnakers - large, balloon-shaped sails for downwind use

The second important distinction we need to make is the functionality . Specialty sails (just a name I came up with) each have different functionalities and are used for very specific conditions. So they're not always up, but most sailors carry one or more of these sails.

They are mostly attached in front of the headsail, or used as a headsail replacement.

The specialty sails can be divided into three different categories:

• downwind sails - like a spinnaker
• light air or reacher sails - like a code zero
• storm sails

The parts of any sail

Whether large or small, each sail consists roughly of the same elements. For clarity's sake I've took an image of a sail from the world wide webs and added the different part names to it:

• Head: Top of the sail
• Tack: Lower front corner of the sail
• Foot: Bottom of the sail
• Luff: Forward edge of the sail
• Leech: Back edge of the sail
• Clew: Bottom back corner of the sail

So now we speak the same language, let's dive into the real nitty gritty.

Basic sail shapes

Roughly speaking, there are actually just two sail shapes, so that's easy enough. You get to choose from:

• square rigged sails
• fore-and-aft rigged sails

I would definitely recommend fore-and-aft rigged sails. Square shaped sails are pretty outdated. The fore-and-aft rig offers unbeatable maneuverability, so that's what most sailing yachts use nowadays.

Square sails were used on Viking longships and are good at sailing downwind. They run from side to side. However, they're pretty useless upwind.

A fore-and-aft sail runs from the front of the mast to the stern. Fore-and-aft literally means 'in front and behind'. Boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails are better at sailing upwind and maneuvering in general. This type of sail was first used on Arabic boats.

As a beginner sailor I confuse the type of sail with rigging all the time. But I should cut myself some slack, because the rigging and sails on a boat are very closely related. They are all part of the sail plan .

A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

There are dozens of sails and hundreds of possible configurations (or sail plans).

For example, depending on your mast configuration, you can have extra headsails (which then are called staysails).

The shape of the sails depends on the rigging, so they overlap a bit. To keep it simple I'll first go over the different sail types based on the most common rig. I'll go over the other rig types later in the article.

Bermuda Sloop: the most common rig

Most modern small and mid-sized sailboats have a Bermuda sloop configuration . The sloop is one-masted and has two sails, which are front-and-aft rigged. This type of rig is also called a Marconi Rig. The Bermuda rig uses a triangular sail, with just one side of the sail attached to the mast.

The mainsail is in use most of the time. It can be reefed down, making it smaller depending on the wind conditions. It can be reefed down completely, which is more common in heavy weather. (If you didn't know already: reefing is skipper terms for rolling or folding down a sail.)

In very strong winds (above 30 knots), most sailors only use the headsail or switch to a trysail.

The headsail powers your bow, the mainsail powers your stern (rear). By having two sails, you can steer by using only your sails (in theory - it requires experience). In any case, two sails gives you better handling than one, but is still easy to operate.

Let's get to the actual sails. The mainsail is attached behind the mast and to the boom, running to the stern. There are multiple designs, but they actually don't differ that much. So the following list is a bit boring. Feel free to skip it or quickly glance over it.

• Square Top racing mainsail - has a high performance profile thanks to the square top, optional reef points
• Racing mainsail - made for speed, optional reef points
• Cruising mainsail - low-maintenance, easy to use, made to last. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Full-Batten Cruising mainsail - cruising mainsail with better shape control. Eliminates flogging. Full-length battens means the sail is reinforced over the entire length. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• High Roach mainsail - crossover between square top racing and cruising mainsail, used mostly on cats and multihulls. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Mast Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the mast - very convenient but less control; of sail shape. Have no reef points
• Boom Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the boom. Have no reef points.

The headsail is the front sail in a front-and-aft rig. The sail is fixed on a stay (rope, wire or rod) which runs forward to the deck or bowsprit. It's almost always triangular (Dutch fishermen are known to use rectangular headsail). A triangular headsail is also called a jib .

Headsails can be attached in two ways:

• using roller furlings - the sail rolls around the headstay
• hank on - fixed attachment

Types of jibs:

Typically a sloop carries a regular jib as its headsail. It can also use a genoa.

• A jib is a triangular staysail set in front of the mast. It's the same size as the fore-triangle.
• A genoa is a large jib that overlaps the mainsail.

What's the purpose of a jib sail? A jib is used to improve handling and to increase sail area on a sailboat. This helps to increase speed. The jib gives control over the bow (front) of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship. The jib is the headsail (frontsail) on a front-and-aft rig.

The size of the jib is generally indicated by a number - J1, 2, 3, and so on. The number tells us the attachment point. The order of attachment points may differ per sailmaker, so sometimes J1 is the largest jib (on the longest stay) and sometimes it's the smallest (on the shortest stay). Typically the J1 jib is the largest - and the J3 jib the smallest.

Most jibs are roller furling jibs: this means they are attached to a stay and can be reefed down single-handedly. If you have a roller furling you can reef down the jib to all three positions and don't need to carry different sizes.

Originally called the 'overlapping jib', the leech of the genoa extends aft of the mast. This increases speed in light and moderate winds. A genoa is larger than the total size of the fore-triangle. How large exactly is indicated by a percentage.

• A number 1 genoa is typically 155% (it used to be 180%)
• A number 2 genoa is typically 125-140%

Genoas are typically made from 1.5US/oz polyester spinnaker cloth, or very light laminate.

This is where it gets pretty interesting. You can use all kinds of sails to increase speed, handling, and performance for different weather conditions.

Some rules of thumb:

• Large sails are typically good for downwind use, small sails are good for upwind use.
• Large sails are good for weak winds (light air), small sails are good for strong winds (storms).

Downwind sails

Thanks to the front-and-aft rig sailboats are easier to maneuver, but they catch less wind as well. Downwind sails are used to offset this by using a large sail surface, pulling a sailboat downwind. They can be hanked on when needed and are typically balloon shaped.

Here are the most common downwind sails:

• Big gennaker
• Small gennaker

A free-flying sail that fills up with air, giving it a balloon shape. Spinnakers are generally colorful, which is why they look like kites. This downwind sail has the largest sail area, and it's capable of moving a boat with very light wind. They are amazing to use on trade wind routes, where they can help you make quick progress.

Spinnakers require special rigging. You need a special pole and track on your mast. You attach the sail at three points: in the mast head using a halyard, on a pole, and on a sheet.

The spinnaker is symmetrical, meaning the luff is as long as its leech. It's designed for broad reaching.

Gennaker or cruising spinnaker

The Gennaker is a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker. It has less downwind performance than the spinnaker. It is a bit smaller, making it slower, but also easier to handle - while it remains very capable. The cruising spinnaker is designed for broad reaching.

The gennaker is a smaller, asymmetric spinnaker that's doesn't require a pole or track on the mast. Like the spinnaker, and unlike the genoa, the gennaker is set flying. Asymmetric means its luff is longer than its leech.

You can get big and small gennakers (roughly 75% and 50% the size of a true spinnaker).

Also called ...

• the cruising spinnaker
• cruising chute
• pole-less spinnaker
• SpinDrifter

... it's all the same sail.

Light air sails

There's a bit of overlap between the downwind sails and light air sails. Downwind sails can be used as light air sails, but not all light air sails can be used downwind.

Here are the most common light air sails:

• Spinnaker and gennaker

Drifter reacher

Code zero reacher.

A drifter (also called a reacher) is a lightweight, larger genoa for use in light winds. It's roughly 150-170% the size of a genoa. It's made from very lightweight laminated spinnaker fabric (1.5US/oz).

Thanks to the extra sail area the sail offers better downwind performance than a genoa. It's generally made from lightweight nylon. Thanks to it's genoa characteristics the sail is easier to use than a cruising spinnaker.

The code zero reacher is officially a type of spinnaker, but it looks a lot like a large genoa. And that's exactly what it is: a hybrid cross between the genoa and the asymmetrical spinnaker (gennaker). The code zero however is designed for close reaching, making it much flatter than the spinnaker. It's about twice the size of a non-overlapping jib.

A windseeker is a small, free-flying staysail for super light air. It's tall and thin. It's freestanding, so it's not attached to the headstay. The tack attaches to a deck pad-eye. Use your spinnakers' halyard to raise it and tension the luff.

It's made from nylon or polyester spinnaker cloth (0.75 to 1.5US/oz).

It's designed to guide light air onto the lee side of the main sail, ensuring a more even, smooth flow of air.

Stormsails are stronger than regular sails, and are designed to handle winds of over 45 knots. You carry them to spare the mainsail. Sails

A storm jib is a small triangular staysail for use in heavy weather. If you participate in offshore racing you need a mandatory orange storm jib. It's part of ISAF's requirements.

A trysail is a storm replacement for the mainsail. It's small, triangular, and it uses a permanently attached pennant. This allows it to be set above the gooseneck. It's recommended to have a separate track on your mast for it - you don't want to fiddle around when you actually really need it to be raised ... now.

Why Use Different Sails At All?

You could just get the largest furling genoa and use it on all positions. So why would you actually use different types of sails?

The main answer to that is efficiency . Some situations require other characteristics.

Having a deeply reefed genoa isn't as efficient as having a small J3. The reef creates too much draft in the sail, which increases heeling. A reefed down mainsail in strong winds also increases heeling. So having dedicated (storm) sails is probably a good thing, especially if you're planning more demanding passages or crossings.

But it's not just strong winds, but also light winds that can cause problems. Heavy sails will just flap around like laundry in very light air. So you need more lightweight fabrics to get you moving.

What Are Sails Made Of?

The most used materials for sails nowadays are:

• Dacron - woven polyester
• woven nylon
• laminated fabrics - increasingly popular

Sails used to be made of linen. As you can imagine, this is terrible material on open seas. Sails were rotting due to UV and saltwater. In the 19th century linen was replaced by cotton.

It was only in the 20th century that sails were made from synthetic fibers, which were much stronger and durable. Up until the 1980s most sails were made from Dacron. Nowadays, laminates using yellow aramids, Black Technora, carbon fiber and Spectra yarns are more and more used.

Laminates are as strong as Dacron, but a lot lighter - which matters with sails weighing up to 100 kg (220 pounds).

By the way: we think that Viking sails were made from wool and leather, which is quite impressive if you ask me.

In this section of the article I give you a quick and dirty summary of different sail plans or rig types which will help you to identify boats quickly. But if you want to really understand it clearly, I really recommend you read part 2 of this series, which is all about different rig types.

You can't simply count the number of masts to identify rig type But you can identify any rig type if you know what to look for. We've created an entire system for recognizing rig types. Let us walk you through it. Read all about sail rig types

As I've said earlier, there are two major rig types: square rigged and fore-and-aft. We can divide the fore-and-aft rigs into three groups:

• Bermuda rig (we have talked about this one the whole time) - has a three-sided mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided mainsail on a long yard

There are roughly four types of boats:

• one masted boats - sloop, cutter
• two masted boats - ketch, schooner, brig
• three masted - barque
• fully rigged or ship rigged - tall ship

Everything with four masts is called a (tall) ship. I think it's outside the scope of this article, but I have written a comprehensive guide to rigging. I'll leave the three and four-masted rigs for now. If you want to know more, I encourage you to read part 2 of this series.

One-masted rigs

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

The 3 most common one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

1. Gaff Cat

2. Gaff Sloop

Two-masted rigs

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the main mast. Behind (aft of) the main mast is called a mizzen mast . In front of the main mast is called a foremast .

The 5 most common two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Main mast carries small lateen rigged sail.

4. Schooner

5. Brigantine

This article is part 1 of a series about sails and rig types If you want to read on and learn to identify any sail plans and rig type, we've found a series of questions that will help you do that quickly. Read all about recognizing rig types

Related Questions

What is the difference between a gennaker & spinnaker? Typically, a gennaker is smaller than a spinnaker. Unlike a spinnaker, a gennaker isn't symmetric. It's asymmetric like a genoa. It is however rigged like a spinnaker; it's not attached to the forestay (like a jib or a genoa). It's a downwind sail, and a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker (hence the name).

What is a Yankee sail? A Yankee sail is a jib with a high-cut clew of about 3' above the boom. A higher-clewed jib is good for reaching and is better in high waves, preventing the waves crash into the jibs foot. Yankee jibs are mostly used on traditional sailboats.

How much does a sail weigh? Sails weigh anywhere between 4.5-155 lbs (2-70 kg). The reason is that weight goes up exponentially with size. Small boats carry smaller sails (100 sq. ft.) made from thinner cloth (3.5 oz). Large racing yachts can carry sails of up to 400 sq. ft., made from heavy fabric (14 oz), totaling at 155 lbs (70 kg).

What's the difference between a headsail and a staysail? The headsail is the most forward of the staysails. A boat can only have one headsail, but it can have multiple staysails. Every staysail is attached to a forward running stay. However, not every staysail is located at the bow. A stay can run from the mizzen mast to the main mast as well.

What is a mizzenmast? A mizzenmast is the mast aft of the main mast (behind; at the stern) in a two or three-masted sailing rig. The mizzenmast is shorter than the main mast. It may carry a mainsail, for example with a ketch or lugger. It sometimes doesn't carry a mainsail, for example with a yawl, allowing it to be much shorter.

Special thanks to the following people for letting me use their quality photos: Bill Abbott - True Spinnaker with pole - CC BY-SA 2.0 lotsemann - Volvo Ocean Race Alvimedica and the Code Zero versus SCA and the J1 - CC BY-SA 2.0 Lisa Bat - US Naval Academy Trysail and Storm Jib dry fit - CC BY-SA 2.0 Mike Powell - White gaff cat - CC BY-SA 2.0 Anne Burgess - Lugger The Reaper at Scottish Traditional Boat Festival

Hi, I stumbled upon your page and couldn’t help but notice some mistakes in your description of spinnakers and gennakers. First of all, in the main photo on top of this page the small yacht is sailing a spinnaker, not a gennaker. If you look closely you can see the spinnaker pole standing on the mast, visible between the main and headsail. Further down, the discription of the picture with the two German dinghies is incorrect. They are sailing spinnakers, on a spinnaker pole. In the farthest boat, you can see a small piece of the pole. If needed I can give you the details on the difference between gennakers and spinnakers correctly?

Hi Shawn, I am living in Utrecht I have an old gulf 32 and I am sailing in merkmeer I find your articles very helpful Thanks

Thank you for helping me under stand all the sails there names and what there functions were and how to use them. I am planning to build a trimaran 30’ what would be the best sails to have I plan to be coastal sailing with it. Thank you

Hey Comrade!

Well done with your master piece blogging. Just a small feedback. “The jib gives control over the bow of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship.” Can you please first tell the different part of a sail boat earlier and then talk about bow and stern later in the paragraph. A reader has no clue on the newly introduced terms. It helps to keep laser focused and not forget main concepts.

Shawn, I am currently reading How to sail around the World” by Hal Roth. Yes, I want to sail around the world. His book is truly grounded in real world experience but like a lot of very knowledgable people discussing their area of expertise, Hal uses a lot of terms that I probably should have known but didn’t, until now. I am now off to read your second article. Thank You for this very enlightening article on Sail types and their uses.

Shawn Buckles

HI CVB, that’s a cool plan. Thanks, I really love to hear that. I’m happy that it was helpful to you and I hope you are of to a great start for your new adventure!

Hi GOWTHAM, thanks for the tip, I sometimes forget I haven’t specified the new term. I’ve added it to the article.

Nice article and video; however, you’re mixing up the spinnaker and the gennaker.

A started out with a question. What distinguishes a brig from a schooner? Which in turn led to follow-up questions: I know there are Bermuda rigs and Latin rig, are there more? Which in turn led to further questions, and further, and further… This site answers them all. Wonderful work. Thank you.

Great post and video! One thing was I was surprised how little you mentioned the Ketch here and not at all in the video or chart, and your sample image is a large ship with many sails. Some may think Ketch’s are uncommon, old fashioned or only for large boats. Actually Ketch’s are quite common for cruisers and live-aboards, especially since they often result in a center cockpit layout which makes for a very nice aft stateroom inside. These are almost exclusively the boats we are looking at, so I was surprised you glossed over them.

Love the article and am finding it quite informative.

While I know it may seem obvious to 99% of your readers, I wish you had defined the terms “upwind” and “downwind.” I’m in the 1% that isn’t sure which one means “with the wind” (or in the direction the wind is blowing) and which one means “against the wind” (or opposite to the way the wind is blowing.)

paul adriaan kleimeer

like in all fields of syntax and terminology the terms are colouual meaning local and then spead as the technology spread so an history lesson gives a floral bouque its colour and in the case of notical terms span culture and history adds an detail that bring reverence to the study simply more memorable.

Hi, I have a small yacht sail which was left in my lock-up over 30 years ago I basically know nothing about sails and wondered if you could spread any light as to the make and use of said sail. Someone said it was probably originally from a Wayfayer wooden yacht but wasn’t sure. Any info would be must appreciated and indeed if would be of any use to your followers? I can provide pics but don’t see how to include them at present

kind regards

Leave a comment

You may also like, 17 sailboat types explained: how to recognize them.

Ever wondered what type of sailboat you're looking at? Identifying sailboats isn't hard, you just have to know what to look for. In this article, I'll help you.

How Much Sailboats Cost On Average (380+ Prices Compared)

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Boat Designs: Exploring Sail Shape, Masts and Keel Types in 2023

• June 4, 2023

When it comes to sail boat designs, there is a wide array of options available, each with its own unique characteristics and advantages. From the shape of the sails to the number of masts and the type of keel, every aspect plays a crucial role in determining a sailboat’s performance, stability, and manoeuvrability. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the fascinating world of sail boat designs, exploring the various elements and their significance.

Table of Contents

The sail shape is a fundamental aspect of sail boat design, directly impacting its speed, windward performance, and maneuverability. There are several types of sail shapes, including:

1. Bermuda Rig:

The Bermuda rig is a widely used sail shape known for its versatility and performance. It features a triangular mainsail and a jib, offering excellent maneuverability and the ability to sail close to the wind. The Bermuda rig’s design allows for efficient use of wind energy, enabling sailboats to achieve higher speeds. The tall, triangular mainsail provides a larger surface area for capturing the wind, while the jib helps to balance the sail plan and optimize performance. This rig is commonly found in modern recreational sailboats and racing yachts. Its sleek and streamlined appearance adds to its aesthetic appeal, making it a popular choice among sailors of all levels of experience.

2. Gaff Rig:

The Gaff rig is a classic sail shape that exudes elegance and nostalgia. It features a four-sided mainsail with a gaff and a topsail, distinguishing it from other sail designs. The gaff, a horizontal spar, extends diagonally from the mast, providing additional area for the mainsail. This configuration allows for a taller and more powerful sail, making the Gaff rig particularly suited for downwind sailing. The Gaff rig offers a traditional aesthetic and is often found in vintage and classic sailboats, evoking a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era of maritime exploration. The distinctive shape of the Gaff rig, with its graceful curves and intricate rigging, adds a touch of timeless charm to any sailboat that dons this rig.

3. Lateen Rig:

The Lateen rig is a unique and versatile sail design that has been used for centuries in various parts of the world. It features a triangular sail that is rigged on a long yard, extending diagonally from the mast. This configuration allows for easy adjustment of the sail’s angle to catch the wind efficiently, making the Lateen rig suitable for a wide range of wind conditions. The Lateen rig is known for its ability to provide both power and maneuverability, making it ideal for small to medium-sized sailboats and traditional vessels like dhow boats. Its versatility allows sailors to navigate narrow waterways and make tight turns with ease. The distinctive silhouette of a sailboat with a Lateen rig, with its sleek triangular sail and graceful curves, evokes a sense of adventure and a connection to seafaring traditions from around the world.

Number of Masts

The number of masts in a sail boat design affects its stability, sail area, and overall performance. Let’s explore a few common configurations:

1. Sloop Rig:

The sloop rig is one of the most popular and versatile sail boat designs, favoured by sailors around the world. It consists of a single mast and two sails—a mainsail and a jib. The sloop rig offers simplicity, ease of handling, and excellent performance across various wind conditions. The mainsail, situated behind the mast, provides the primary driving force, while the jib helps to balance the sail plan and improve manoeuvrability. This configuration allows for efficient upwind sailing, as the sails can be trimmed independently to optimize performance. The sloop rig is commonly found in modern recreational sailboats due to its versatility, enabling sailors to enjoy cruising, racing, or day sailing with ease. Its streamlined design and sleek appearance on the water make it both aesthetically pleasing and efficient, capturing the essence of the sailing experience.

2. Cutter Rig:

The cutter rig is a versatile and robust sail boat design that offers excellent performance, especially in challenging weather conditions. It features a single mast and multiple headsails, typically including a larger headsail forward of the mast, known as the cutter rig’s distinguishing feature. This configuration provides a wide range of sail combinations, enabling sailors to adjust the sail plan to suit varying wind strengths and directions. The larger headsail enhances the boat’s downwind performance, while the smaller headsails offer increased flexibility and improved balance. The cutter rig excels in heavy weather, as it allows for easy reefing and depowering by simply reducing or eliminating the headsails. This design is commonly found in offshore cruising sailboats and has a strong reputation for its reliability and seaworthiness. The cutter rig combines versatility, stability, and the ability to handle adverse conditions, making it a preferred choice for sailors seeking both performance and safety on their voyages.

3. Ketch Rig:

The Ketch rig is a sail boat design characterized by the presence of two masts, with the main mast being taller than the mizzen mast. This configuration offers a divided sail plan, providing sailors with increased flexibility, balance, and versatility. The main advantage of the Ketch rig is the ability to distribute the sail area across multiple sails, allowing for easier handling and reduced stress on each individual sail. The mizzen mast, positioned aft of the main mast, helps to improve the sailboat’s balance, especially in strong winds or when sailing downwind. The Ketch rig is often favoured by cruisers and long-distance sailors as it provides a range of sail combinations suitable for various wind conditions. With its distinctive double-mast appearance, the Ketch rig exudes a classic charm and is well-regarded for its stability, comfort, and suitability for extended journeys on the open seas.

The keel is the part of the sail boat that provides stability and prevents drifting sideways due to the force of the wind. Here are some common keel types:

1. Fin Keel:

The fin keel is a popular keel type in sail boat design known for its excellent upwind performance and stability. It is a long, narrow keel that extends vertically from the sailboat’s hull, providing a substantial amount of ballast to counterbalance the force of the wind. The fin keel’s streamlined shape minimizes drag and enables the sailboat to cut through the water with efficiency. This design enhances the sailboat’s ability to sail close to the wind, making it ideal for racing and performance-oriented sailboats. The fin keel also reduces leeway, which refers to the sideways movement of the boat caused by the wind. This improves the sailboat’s ability to maintain a straight course and enhances overall manoeuvrability. Sailboats with fin keels are commonly found in coastal and offshore racing as well as cruising vessels, where stability and responsiveness are valued. The fin keel’s combination of performance, stability, and reduced leeway makes it a preferred choice for sailors seeking speed and agility on the water.

2. Full Keel:

The full keel is a design known for its exceptional stability and seaworthiness. It extends along the entire length of the sailboat, providing a continuous surface that adds substantial weight and ballast. This configuration offers significant advantages in terms of tracking and resistance to drifting sideways. The full keel’s deep draft helps to prevent leeway and allows the sailboat to maintain a steady course even in adverse conditions. Its robust construction enhances the sailboat’s ability to handle heavy seas and provides a comfortable ride for sailors on extended journeys. While full keel sailboats may sacrifice some manoeuvrability, their stability and predictable handling make them a popular choice for offshore cruising and long-distance voyages. The full keel design has stood the test of time and is often associated with classic and traditional sailboat aesthetics, appealing to sailors seeking reliability, comfort, and the ability to tackle challenging ocean passages with confidence.

3. Wing Keel:

The wing keel is a unique keel design that offers a combination of reduced draft and improved stability. It features a bulbous extension or wings on the bottom of the keel, which effectively increases the keel’s surface area. This design allows sailboats to navigate in shallower waters without sacrificing stability and performance. The wings create additional lift and prevent excessive leeway, enhancing the sailboat’s upwind capabilities. The reduced draft of the wing keel enables sailors to explore coastal areas and anchor in shallower anchorages that would be inaccessible to sailboats with deeper keels. The wing keel is particularly well-suited for sailboats in areas with variable water depths or tidal ranges. This keel design offers the advantages of increased manoeuvrability and improved performance while maintaining stability, making it a popular choice for sailors seeking versatility in a range of sailing environments.

In the vast world of sail boat designs, sail shape, number of masts, and keel types play pivotal roles in determining a boat’s performance and handling characteristics. Whether you’re a recreational sailor, a racer, or a cruiser, understanding these design elements can help you make informed choices when selecting a sailboat.

Remember to consider your specific needs, preferences, and intended use of the boat when choosing a sail boat design. Each design has its strengths and weaknesses, and finding the perfect combination will greatly enhance your sailing experience.

By gaining a deeper understanding of sail boat designs, you can embark on your next sailing adventure with confidence and make the most of the wind’s power.

Related Posts

Sailing Navigation: Exploring Modern Techniques for Navigating the Seas in 2023

• June 10, 2023

Sailing in Different Directions: Harnessing the Wind’s Power in 2023

Sailing Terms Demystified: A Comprehensive Guide to 14 Common Sailing Terminology

• May 28, 2023

Save on Sail Bags and Lines!

Lazy Jack, Boom Covers, Lines, Turtle Bags, Spinnaker Socks, Halyards, Sheets, and More!

Summer Savings

Up to 30% off new sails with the fastest delivery in North America! 4-6 Weeks From Design to Delivery. Limited availability.

Trusted by YouTube’s Largest Sailing Channels

Sailing for a living requires sails that work. These inspirational sailors put hours on their sails in remote locations and put their trust in Precision Sails.

Custom Designed Sails

Designed for your boat, your sailing area, and the type of sailing you do. Over 15,000 Sailboat Rig Specs on file.

Any Sail That You Need

Mainsails, Headsails, Asymmetrical Spinnakers, Symmetrical Spinnakers, Gennakers, Code Zeros – we have it all!

The Largest Sailcloth Selection in the Industry

With the widest selection of sailcloth available in the industry there is always a cloth suited for you. Let us help narrow down your options.

Perfect Fit Guaranteed, Every Time

Every step in our process is focused on ensuring the highest quality and satisfaction for our sailors. Smooth sailing is guaranteed with our innovative approach to production and our exceptional warranty coverage.

Mon-Fri: 8:00am to 4:00pm PST [email protected] – This opens in your default email application 1-888-958-5638 – This opens in your default telephone application

Educating & Consulting to Ensure You Get What You Need

Sails are the main propulsion force for sailboats. Unfortunately, most sailors don’t replace their sails often enough. This can lead to the assumption that purchasing new sails can be overwhelming and confusing. Precision Sails takes a new approach to the sailing industry by helping you choose what sails and sailcloth is best for you, your sailboat, the type of sailing you want to do, and the area in which you are sailing. We offer industry-leading transparency into what sailcloth is available worldwide and the importance of sail design to your sail’s performance and lifespan.

Our website is filled with educational resources related to cloth, design, and technical sailing knowledge. Our team of sail consultants is always available to walk you through the options and help you choose the sail that is right for you.

Perfect Sails Start With a Perfect Design

In order for a sail to fit and perform it needs to be designed properly. While other lofts are contracting sail designs to third-party design services, Precision Sails is building its in-house design team in Victoria BC, Canada, to work directly with sailors to ensure your new sail fits perfectly and performs the way that you want it to. Using the most modern 3D sail design software our design team will customize a sail that not only fits your rig as she sits in the water today but ensure that your sail fits and performs for years to come.

100% Fit and Performance Guarantee

Buying a new sail is a big investment. Precision Sails offers its 100% Guarantee so all our sailors have the confidence that Precision Sails has your back. Accidents are rare, but they can happen. If your sail does not fit or perform to your satisfaction your sail will be redesigned and rebuilt. As experts in our craft and with the confidence we have from supporting thousands of sailors worldwide, our team is proud to boast the widest covering sail warranty in the industry.

Leading the Industry in Sailcloth Options

Sailcloth manufacturers offer many different types of sailcloth in multiple different quality levels. There is always sailcloth available that will meet your sailing needs as well as your budget. Precision Sails offers all sailors full transparency into what sailcloth is offered and from which manufacture. Our team is here to help select which cloth is best suited for your sailing needs.

Our Partners

Precision Sails is proud to partner with these amazing sailors documenting their adventures. These sailors inspire new sailors and weekend warriors alike to learn how to sail, sail more often, and sail further than ever before. If you are looking for some inspiration to cut the lines and sail away make sure to help us support these creators by watching their episodes.

Learn More About Our Partners

Find your Sail

Your perfect sail is out there and Precision Sails is ready to make it for you. Request a quote for a sail and we’ll be in touch shortly.

Types of Sails

Precision Sail Loft specializes in producing headsails, mainsails, spinnakers, gennakers, and code zeros. So no matter the type of sail you’re looking for, we can help. Our sails are trusted by cruisers and racers alike from around the globe. Review the sail options and craftsmanship available to customize your dream sail.

Build & Process

Every sail we craft is produced to the highest standards with the best hardware, craftsmanship, and skill-set in the industry. Pair that with Precision Sails’ approach to communication and your sailboat will be ready to set sail before you know it.

What are Sailors Saying About Precision Sails

Precision Sails thrives on communication. At each step from design to delivery, we encourage you to collaborate one-on-one with our expert sail consultants in finding the perfect sail to suit your needs. Don’t just hear it from us. Check out some reviews posted on third-party review sites by our sailors!

“ Thank you for getting the order for my mainsail and stack pack done in time for my summer trip to the San Juans! Really appreciate the effort to get this done. The mainsail fits perfectly, the stack pack works great, so I am an all-around happy customer and will be in touch whenever I need to replace my headsail and Genoa! Calling out Jeremy Roszmann, Trevor Parks, Marc Pettigrew, and Gary Boylan for great customer service. -Andy Koller

“ The new sails look and work great! No issues with the install and went from being last place in the club races to 2nd place (and probably would have snagged first if I hadn’t gotten confused about the order of the marks in the race !) -Eric Van Hensbergen

“ I have had two sails made by Precision Sails in the last 12 months. Both have exceeded my expectations. The fit to the boat and the performance of the sails are exceptional. The sail designer worked with me to make sure the resulting sail fit my objectives. Precision Sails has excellent documentation and videos to assure that your measurements are accurate. The sails are first rate and the price was very competitive. I am a very happy repeat customer. -Terry Noreault (Facebook)

“ I am very happy with the new mainsail you made for my Corsair F24 MK1. I have just returned from a week-long trip with a group of sailors and the performance of my new Dacron main is much better than my old Mylar race sail. -Brent Nielsen

“ I just received my asymmetrical spinnaker, with sock and turtle bag, along with a new 135 Genoa. The entire process was simple and both sales and the design team were in regular contact if there were any questions. The customer portal was easy to use and lets you keep track of where in the process your sails are. Great sails, great service -Graham Edwards (Facebook)

“ Very responsive, excellent quality, very fair prices. When they were not happy with the graphic on the first sail Ron called to let me know and they sent me a second sail at no charge. Highly recommended! -Gerry Beltgens (facebook)

“ We love the design, quality, construction, and performance of our new 95% furling jib from Precision Sails. The sail works well with our staysail and performs better than expected on all points of sail including poled out dead down wind. The new 95% jib does not get as overpowered as our old 135% Genoa and it is easier to tack with the staysail deployed. The design team made the process of getting accurate dimensions easy, took the time to understand our requirements, and was a pleasure to deal with. I will definitely do business with Precision again! -Charles Clark (Google)

“ Quality throughout the whole process… starting with quotation, options and cloth alternatives. Quick delivery time and the product is very good quality. I am very pleased to carry my Precision sails on my boat. I recommend them 100%! -Marcos D.

“ I just received the 2nd custom-made sail I’ve ordered through Precision Sails. The process for providing measurement information and custom images is very clearly laid out in the forms on their website, in addition to several instructional YouTube videos. The results turned out beautifully, just as I had pictured it for both sails! -Michael Shafer (Google)

“ Just received my new mainsail from Precision Sail Loft and am over the moon about it. Darryl walked me through all my options and gave great advice. The measurement form is foolproof. They keep you updated with the status of your order every step of the way. I can recommend them highly enough. -Henry Gomez (Google)

“ I was introduced to Precision Sails through Sailing Yacht Ruby Rose on You Tube. I decided to try the online experience myself. I provided the measurements and had good conversations with the sales team and with the sail designer. The new Genoa arrived in great condition and was a perfect fit! Couldn’t be happier!! -Brad Hamrlik (Google)

Sailor Resources

The Precision Sails’ team has a wealth of knowledge on all things sailing. Tap into our range of useful resources and browse all topics ranging from the best cloth types to sail maintenance tips. Check out our Ask Precision Sails series where we answer questions provided by sailors like you!

How to Measure for a New Mainsail

If you can read a tape measure you can measure your boat for a new Mainsail.

Purchasing a new Mainsail for your sailboat is one of those investments that every sailor will be faced with eventually. Sails don’t last for ever, even if you treat them like gold. Once you have decided to invest in new sails you may get that feeling of being over whelmed by the choices and the details involved. When deciding on a loft to work with make sure you choose a loft that will offer a good consultation on the cloth and sail feature choices as well as a design consultation if you want one.

Jibs vs. Genoas

Get to know the difference!

Jibs and Genoas are triangular sails which are affixed to a stay in front of the mast. Typically they run from the head of the foremast to the bowsprit. Jibs and genoa’s are used in tandem with a mainsail to stabilize the vessel and are usually measured by their Luff Perpendicular percentage, that is, how much area within the fore-triangle they use.

Taking Headsail Measurements with the Mast Down

Measuring your Headsail with your mast down is still possible.

Step by Step How To Instructions and Videos on how to collect your boats measurements for a your new headsail. Watch Jeremy Roszmann, sail designer, walk us through how to collecte great measurements to build a headsail with.

How To Measure for a New Spinnaker

Learn how to measure your boat and rig for a new spinnaker with our simple form.

Measuring your rig for a new spinnaker is easy. We need to know the location of your halyard, what your maximum hoist is, where the location you sheet to is located and what style. We also need to know if you have a bowsprit, plan to use a spinnaker sock, or other kind of furling system. Last but not least, you get to pick your colors!

Mainsails: Loose Foot VS Fixed Foot

If you currently have a fixed footed mainsail read about the new modern design of a loose footed mainsail.

Sail design has come a long way in the past several decades. A loose footed mainsail is becoming the norm for most sailors. It allows for creating a better shaped sail. This increasings sail performance, efficency, and power. Having a loose-footed sail means having a much more versatile sail as far as trimming is concerned.

" * " indicates required fields

Thanks for telling us a bit about yourself and your boat. Our team will send you a preliminary quote based on information we have gathered from sailors similar to you.

We will give you a call in order to narrow down the options on your quote and improve the accuracy. If you want us to call you at a specific time, feel free to schedule a time on our calendar!

Thanks for telling us a bit about yourself and your boat. Our team will reach out to offer some suggestions and get started on finding you the perfect sail!

• BOAT OF THE YEAR
• Newsletters
• Sailboat Reviews
• Boating Safety
• Sails and Rigging
• Maintenance
• Sailing Totem
• Sailor & Galley
• Living Aboard
• Destinations
• Gear & Electronics
• Charter Resources
• Ultimate Boat Giveaway

40 Best Sailboats

• By Cruising World Editors
• Updated: May 24, 2024

Sailors are certainly passionate about their boats, and if you doubt that bold statement, try posting an article dubbed “ 40 Best Sailboats ” and see what happens.

Barely had the list gone live, when one reader responded, “Where do I begin? So many glaring omissions!” Like scores of others, he listed a number of sailboats and brands that we were too stupid to think of, but unlike some, he did sign off on a somewhat upbeat note: “If it weren’t for the presence of the Bermuda 40 in Cruising World’s list, I wouldn’t even have bothered to vote.”

By vote, he means that he, like hundreds of other readers, took the time to click through to an accompanying page where we asked you to help us reshuffle our alphabetical listing of noteworthy production sailboats so that we could rank them instead by popularity. So we ask you to keep in mind that this list of the best sailboats was created by our readers.

The quest to building this list all began with such a simple question, one that’s probably been posed at one time or another in any bar where sailors meet to raise a glass or two: If you had to pick, what’re the best sailboats ever built?

In no time, a dozen or more from a variety of sailboat manufacturers were on the table and the debate was on. And so, having fun with it, we decided to put the same question to a handful of CW ‘s friends: writers and sailors and designers and builders whose opinions we value. Their favorites poured in and soon an inkling of a list began to take shape. To corral things a bit and avoid going all the way back to Joshua Slocum and his venerable Spray —Hell, to Noah and his infamous Ark —we decided to focus our concentration on production monohull sailboats, which literally opened up the sport to anyone who wanted to get out on the water. And since CW is on the verge or turning 40, we decided that would be a nice round number at which to draw the line and usher in our coming ruby anniversary.

If you enjoy scrolling through this list, which includes all types of sailboats, then perhaps you would also be interested in browsing our list of the Best Cruising Sailboats . Check it out and, of course, feel free to add your favorite boat, too. Here at Cruising World , we like nothing better than talking about boats, and it turns out, so do you.

– LEARN THE NAVIGATION RULES – Know the “Rules of the Road” that govern all boat traffic. Be courteous and never assume other boaters can see you. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

40. Moore 24

39. Pearson Vanguard

38. Dufour Arpege 30

37. Alerion Express 28

36. Mason 43/44

35. Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 43DS

34. Nor’Sea 27

33. Freedom 40

32. Beneteau Sense 50

31. Nonsuch 30

30. Swan 44

29. C&C Landfall 38

28. Gulfstar 50

27. Sabre 36

26. Pearson Triton

– CHECK THE FIT – Follow these guidelines to make sure your life jacket looks good, stays comfortable and works when you need it. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

25. Islander 36

24. Gozzard 36

23. Bristol 40

22. Tartan 34

21. Morgan Out Island 41

20. Hylas 49

19. Contessa 26

18. Whitby 42

17. Columbia 50

16. Morris 36

15. Hunter 356

13. Beneteau 423

12. Westsail 32

– CHECK THE WEATHER – The weather changes all the time. Always check the forecast and prepare for the worst case. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

10. Alberg 30

9. Island Packet 38

8. Passport 40

7. Tayana 37

6. Peterson 44

5. Pacific Seacraft 37

4. Hallberg-Rassy 42

3. Catalina 30

2. Hinckley Bermuda 40

1. Valiant 40

• More: monohull , Sailboats
• More Sailboats

Alubat Updates OVNI Models

For Sale: Little Harbor 63 Ketch

Sailboat Review: Fountaine Pajot Aura 51

A Superyacht Approach at Southerly Yachts

Cruising Tahiti: A Party in Paradise

Introducing Bitter End’s Beach Bungalows

Off Watch: School Daze

• Digital Edition
• Customer Service
• Privacy Policy
• Terms of Use
• Email Newsletters
• Cruising World
• Sailing World
• Salt Water Sportsman
• Sport Fishing
• Wakeboarding

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

25 of the best small sailing boat designs

• Nic Compton
• August 10, 2022

Nic Compton looks at the 25 yachts under 40ft which have had the biggest impact on UK sailing

There’s nothing like a list of best small sailing boat designs to get the blood pumping.

Everyone has their favourites, and everyone has their pet hates.

This is my list of the 25 best small sailing boat designs, honed down from the list of 55 yachts I started with.

I’ve tried to be objective and have included several boats I don’t particularly like but which have undeniably had an impact on sailing in the UK – and yes, it would be quite a different list if I was writing about another country.

If your favourite isn’t on the best small sailing boat designs list, then send an email to [email protected] to argue the case for your best-loved boat.

Ready? Take a deep breath…

Credit: Bob Aylott

Laurent Giles is best known for designing wholesome wooden cruising boats such as the Vertue and Wanderer III , yet his most successful design was the 26ft Centaur he designed for Westerly, of which a remarkable 2,444 were built between 1969 and 1980.

It might not be the prettiest boat on the water, but it sure packs a lot of accommodation.

The Westerly Centaur was one of the first production boats to be tank tested, so it sails surprisingly well too. Jack L Giles knew what he was doing.

Colin Archer

Credit: Nic Compton

Only 32 Colin Archer lifeboats were built during their designer’s lifetime, starting with Colin Archer in 1893 and finishing with Johan Bruusgaard in 1924.

Yet their reputation for safety spawned hundreds of copycat designs, the most famous of which was Sir Robin Knox-Johnston ’s Suhaili , which he sailed around the world singlehanded in 1968-9.

The term Colin Archer has become so generic it is often used to describe any double-ender – so beware!

Contessa 32

Assent ‘s performance in the 1979 Fastnet Race makes the Contessa 32 a worth entry in the 25 best small sailing boat designs list. Credit: Nic Compton

Designed by David Sadler as a bigger alternative to the popular Contessa 26, the Contessa 32 was built by Jeremy Rogers in Lymington from 1970.

The yacht’s credentials were established when Assent , the Contessa 32 owned by Willy Kerr and skippered by his son Alan, became the only yacht in her class to complete the deadly 1979 Fastnet Race .

When UK production ceased in 1983, more than 700 had been built, and another 20 have been built since 1996.

Cornish Crabber 24

It seemed a daft idea to build a gaff-rigged boat in 1974, just when everyone else had embraced the ‘modern’ Bermudan rig.

Yet the first Cornish Crabber 24, designed by Roger Dongray, tapped into a feeling that would grow and grow and eventually become a movement.

The 24 was followed in 1979 by the even more successful Shrimper 19 – now ubiquitous in almost every harbour in England – and the rest is history.

Drascombe Lugger

Credit: David Harding

There are faster, lighter and more comfortable boats than a Drascombe Lugger.

And yet, 57 years after John Watkinson designed the first ‘lugger’ (soon changed to gunter rig), more than 2,000 have been built and the design is still going strong.

More than any other boat, the Drascombe Lugger opened up dinghy cruising, exemplified by Ken Duxbury’s Greek voyages in the 1970s and Webb Chiles’s near-circumnavigation on Chidiock Tichbourne I and II .

The 26ft Eventide. Credit: David Harding

It’s been described as the Morris Minor of the boating world – except that the majority of the 1,000 Eventides built were lovingly assembled by their owners, not on a production line.

After you’d tested your skills building the Mirror dinghy, you could progress to building a yacht.

And at 24ft long, the Eventide packed a surprising amount of living space.

It was Maurice Griffiths’ most successful design and helped bring yachting to a wider audience.

You either love ’em or you hate ’em – motorsailers, that is.

The Fisher 30 was brought into production in 1971 and was one of the first out-and-out motorsailers.

With its long keel , heavy displacement and high bulwarks, it was intended to evoke the spirit of North Sea fishing boats.

It might not sail brilliantly but it provided an exceptional level of comfort for its size and it would look after you when things turned nasty.

Significantly, it was also fitted with a large engine.

Credit: Rupert Holmes

It should have been a disaster.

In 1941, when the Scandinavian Sailing Federation couldn’t choose a winner for their competition to design an affordable sailing boat, they gave six designs to naval architect Tord Sundén and asked him to combine the best features from each.

The result was a sweet-lined 25ft sloop which was very seaworthy and fast.

The design has been built in GRP since the 1970s and now numbers more than 4,000, with fleets all over the world.

Credit: Kevin Barber

There’s something disconcerting about a boat with two unstayed masts and no foresails, and certainly the Freedom range has its detractors.

Yet as Garry Hoyt proved, first with the Freedom 40, designed in collaboration with Halsey Herreshoff, and then the Freedom 33 , designed with Jay Paris, the boats are simple to sail (none of those clattering jib sheets every time you tack) and surprisingly fast – at least off the wind .

Other ‘cat ketch’ designs followed but the Freedoms developed their own cult following.

Hillyard 12-tonner

The old joke about Hillyards is that you won’t drown on one but you might starve to death getting there.

And yet this religious boatbuilder from Littlehampton built up to 800 yachts which travelled around the world – you can find them cruising far-flung destinations.

Sizes ranged from 2.5 to 20 tons, though the 9- and 12-ton are best for long cruises.

The innovations on Jester means she is one of the best small sailing boat designs in the last 100 years. Credit: Ewen Southby-Tailyour

Blondie Hasler was one of the great sailing innovators and Jester was his testing ground.

She was enclosed, carvel planked and had an unstayed junk rig.

Steering was via a windvane system Hasler created.

Hasler came second in the first OSTAR , proving small boats can achieve great things.

Moody kicked off the era of comfort-oriented boats with its very first design.

The Moody 33, designed by Angus Primrose, had a wide beam and high topside to produce a voluminous hull .

The centre cockpit allowed for an aft cabin, resulting in a 33-footer with two sleeping cabins – an almost unheard of concept in 1973 –full-beam heads and spacious galley.

What’s more, her performance under sail was more than adequate for cruising.

Finally, here was a yacht that all the family could enjoy.

Continues below…

What makes a boat seaworthy?

What characteristics make a yacht fit for purpose? Duncan Kent explores the meaning of 'seaworthy' and how hull design and…

How boat design is evolving

Will Bruton looks at the latest trends and innovations shaping the boats we sail

How keel type affects performance

James Jermain looks at the main keel types, their typical performance and the pros and cons of each

Boat handling: How to use your yacht’s hull shape to your advantage

Whether you have a long keel or twin keel rudders, there will be pros and cons when it comes to…

Nicholson 32

Credit: Genevieve Leaper

Charles Nicholson was a giant of the wooden boat era but one of his last designs – created with his son Peter – was a pioneering fibreglass boat that would become an enduring classic.

With its long keel and heavy displacement, the Nicholson 32 is in many ways a wooden boat built in fibreglass – and indeed the design was based on Nicholson’s South Coast One Design.

From 1966 to 1977, the ‘Nic 32’ went through 11 variations.

Credit: Hallberg-Rassy

In the beginning there was… the Rasmus 35. This was the first yacht built by the company that would become Hallberg-Rassy and which would eventually build more than 9,000 boats.

The Rasmus 35, designed by Olle Enderlein, was a conservative design, featuring a centre cockpit, long keel and well-appointed accommodation.

Some 760 boats were built between 1967 and 1978.

Credit: Larry & Lin Pardey

Lyle Hess was ahead of his time when he designed Renegade in 1949.

Despite winning the Newport to Ensenada race, the 25ft wooden cutter went largely unnoticed.

Hess had to build bridges for 15 years before Larry Pardey asked him to design the 24ft Seraffyn , closely based on Renegade ’s lines but with a Bermudan rig.

Pardey’s subsequent voyages around the world cemented Hess’s reputation and success of the Renegade design.

Would the Rustler 36 make it on your best small sailing boat list? Credit: Rustler Yachts

Six out of 18 entries for the 2018 Golden Globe Race (GGR) were Rustler 36s, with the top three places all going to Rustler 36 skippers.

It was a fantastic endorsement for a long-keel yacht designed by Holman & Pye 40 years before.

Expect to see more Rustler 36s in the 2022 edition of the GGR!

It was Ted Heath who first brought the S&S 34 to prominence with his boat Morning Cloud .

In 1969 the yacht won the Sydney to Hobart Race, despite being one of the smallest boats in the race.

Other epic S&S 34 voyages include the first ever single-handed double circumnavigation by Jon Sanders in 1981

Credit: Colin Work

The Contessa 32 might seem an impossible boat to improve upon, but that’s what her designer David Sadler attempted to do in 1979 with the launch of the Sadler 32 .

That was followed two years later by the Sadler 29 , a tidy little boat that managed to pack in six berths in a comfortable open-plan interior.

The boat was billed as ‘unsinkable’, with a double-skinned hull separated by closed cell foam buoyancy.

What’s more, it was fast, notching up to 12 knots.

Credit: Dick Durham/Yachting Monthly

Another modern take on the Contessa theme was the Sigma 33, designed by David Thomas in 1979.

A modern underwater body combined with greater beam and higher freeboard produced a faster boat with greater accommodation.

And, like the Contessa, the Sigma 33 earned its stripes at the 1979 Fastnet, when two of the boats survived to tell the tale.

A lively one-design fleet soon developed on the Solent which is still active to this day.

A replica of Joshua Slocum’s Spray . Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

The boat Joshua Slocum used for his first singlehanded circumnavigation of the world wasn’t intended to sail much further than the Chesapeake Bay.

The 37ft Spray was a rotten old oyster sloop which a friend gave him and which he had to spend 13 months fixing up.

Yet this boxy little tub, with its over-optimistic clipper bow, not only took Slocum safely around the world but has spawned dozens of modern copies that have undertaken long ocean passages.

Credit: James Wharram Designs

What are boats for if not for dreaming? And James Wharram had big dreams.

First he sailed across the Atlantic on the 23ft 6in catamaran Tangaroa .

He then built the 40ft Rongo on the beach in Trinidad (with a little help from French legend Bernard Moitessier) and sailed back to the UK.

Then he drew the 34ft Tangaroa (based on Rongo ) for others to follow in his wake and sold 500 plans in 10 years.

Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

The Twister was designed in a hurry.

Kim Holman wanted a boat at short notice for the 1963 season and, having had some success with his Stella design (based on the Folkboat), he rushed out a ‘knockabout cruising boat for the summer with some racing for fun’.

The result was a Bermudan sloop that proved nigh on unbeatable on the East Anglian circuit.

It proved to be Holman’s most popular design with more than 200 built.

Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

Laurent Giles’s design No15 was drawn in 1935 for a Guernsey solicitor who wanted ‘a boat that would spin on a sixpence and I could sail single-handed ’.

What the young Jack Giles gave him was a pretty transom-sterned cutter, with a nicely raked stem.

Despite being moderate in every way, the boat proved extremely able and was soon racking up long distances, including Humphrey Barton’s famous transatlantic crossing on Vertue XXXV in 1950.

Wanderer II and III

Credit: Thies Matzen

Eric and Susan Hiscock couldn’t afford a Vertue, so Laurent Giles designed a smaller, 21ft version for them which they named Wanderer II .

They were back a few years later, this time wanting a bigger version: the 30ft Wanderer III .

It was this boat they sailed around the world between 1952-55, writing articles and sailing books along the way.

In doing so, they introduced a whole generation of amateur sailors to the possibilities of long-distance cruising.

Westerly 22

The origins of Westerly Marine were incredibly modest.

Commander Denys Rayner started building plywood dinghies in the 1950s which morphed into a 22ft pocket cruiser called the Westcoaster.

Realising the potential of fibreglass, in 1963 he adapted the design to create the Westerly 22, an affordable cruising boat with bilge keels and a reverse sheer coachroof.

Some 332 boats were built to the design before it was relaunched as the Nomad (267 built).

Enjoyed reading 25 of the best small sailing boat designs?

A subscription to Yachting Monthly magazine costs around 40% less than the cover price .

Print and digital editions are available through Magazines Direct – where you can also find the latest deals .

YM is packed with information to help you get the most from your time on the water.

• Take your seamanship to the next level with tips, advice and skills from our experts
• Impartial in-depth reviews of the latest yachts and equipment
• Cruising guides to help you reach those dream destinations

Follow us on Facebook , Twitter and Instagram.

INTRODUCTION TO SAILBOAT DESIGN: A TECHNICAL EXPLORATION

Sailboat design is a complex and fascinating field that blends engineering, hydrodynamics, and aesthetics to create vessels that harness the power of the wind for propulsion. In this highly technical article, we will delve into the key aspects of sailboat design, from methodology to evaluation.

1)     Design Methodology

Designing a sailboat is a meticulous process that begins with defining the vessel’s purpose and performance goals. It involves understanding the intended use, whether it’s racing, cruising, or a combination of both. Sailboat designers must also consider regulatory requirements and safety standards.

Once the design objectives are established, naval architects employ various computational tools and simulations to create a preliminary design. These tools help in predicting the boat’s performance characteristics and optimizing its geometry.

Design methodology also encompasses market research to understand current trends and customer preferences. This information is critical for creating a sailboat that appeals to potential buyers.

2)     Hull Design

The hull is the heart of any sailboat. Its shape determines how the boat interacts with the water. Hull design encompasses the choice of hull form, its dimensions, and the material used. The hull’s shape affects its hydrodynamic performance, stability, and overall handling.

For example, a narrow hull design with a deep V-shape is ideal for speed, while a wider, flatter hull provides stability for cruising. The choice of materials, such as fiberglass or aluminum, impacts the boat’s weight and durability.

The hull design is a balance between achieving efficient hydrodynamics and providing interior space for accommodations. As a designer, finding this equilibrium is a constant challenge.

3)     Keel & Rudder Design

The keel and rudder are critical components of a sailboat’s underwater structure. The keel provides stability by preventing the boat from tipping over, while the rudder controls its direction. Keel design involves selecting the keel type (fin, bulb, or wing) and optimizing its shape for maximum hydrodynamic efficiency.

Rudder’s design focuses on ensuring precise control and maneuverability. Both components must be carefully integrated into the hull’s design to maintain balance and performance.

Keel and rudder design can be particularly challenging because they influence the boat’s behavior in different ways. A well-designed keel adds stability but also increases draft, limiting where the boat can sail. Rudder design must account for both responsiveness and the risk of stalling at high speeds.

4)     Sail & Rig Design

Sail and rig design play a pivotal role in harnessing wind power. Sail choice, size, and shape are tailored to the boat’s intended use and performance goals. Modern sail materials like carbon fiber offer lightweight and durable options.

The rig design involves selecting the type of mast (single or multiple), rigging configuration, and mast height. These choices influence the sailboat’s stability, maneuverability, and ability to handle varying wind conditions.

Balancing the sails and rig for optimal performance is a meticulous task. The sail plan should be designed to efficiently convert wind energy into forward motion while allowing for easy adjustments to adapt to changing conditions.

5)     Balance

Balancing a sailboat is crucial for its performance and safety. Achieving the right balance involves a delicate interplay between the hull, keel, rudder, and sail plan. Proper balance ensures the boat remains stable and responds predictably to helm inputs, even in changing wind conditions.

Balance is not a static concept but something that evolves as the boat sails in different wind and sea conditions. Designers must anticipate how changes in load, wind angle, and sail trim will affect the boat’s balance.

Achieving balance is both an art and a science, and it often requires iterative adjustments during the design and testing phases to achieve optimal results.

6)     Propulsion

While sailboats primarily rely on wind propulsion, auxiliary propulsion systems like engines are essential for maneuvering in harbors or during calm conditions. Integrating propulsion systems seamlessly into the boat’s design requires careful consideration of engine placement, fuel storage, and exhaust systems.

The choice of propulsion system, whether it’s a traditional diesel engine or a more eco-friendly electric motor, also impacts the boat’s weight distribution and overall performance.

7)     Scantling

Scantling refers to the selection of structural components and their dimensions to ensure the boat’s strength and integrity. It involves determining the appropriate thickness of the hull, deck, and other structural elements to withstand the stresses encountered at sea.

Scantling is a critical aspect of sailboat design, as it directly relates to safety. A well-designed boat must be able to withstand the forces exerted on it by waves, wind, and other environmental factors.

8)     Stability

Stability is a critical safety factor in sailboat design. Both upright hydrostatics and large-angle stability must be carefully assessed and optimized. This involves evaluating the boat’s center of gravity, ballast, and hull shape.

Achieving the right balance between initial stability, which provides comfort to passengers, and ultimate stability, which ensures safety in adverse conditions, is a delicate task. Designers often use stability curves and computer simulations to fine-tune these characteristics.

9)     Layout

The layout of a sailboat’s interior and deck spaces is a blend of functionality and comfort. Designers must consider the ergonomics of living and working aboard the vessel, including cabin layout, galley design, and storage solutions. The deck layout influences crew movements and sail handling.

Layout design also extends to considerations like ventilation, lighting, and noise control. Sailboats are unique in that they must provide both comfortable living spaces and efficient workspaces for handling sails and navigation.

10)  Design Evaluation

The final phase of sailboat design involves rigorous evaluation and testing. Computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulations, tank testing, and real-world sea trials help validate the design’s performance predictions. Any necessary adjustments are made to fine-tune the vessel’s behavior on the water.

The evaluation phase is where the theoretical aspects of design meet the practical realities of the sea. It’s a crucial step in ensuring that the sailboat not only meets but exceeds its performance and safety expectations.

Conclusion:

In conclusion, sailboat design is a highly technical field that requires a deep understanding of hydrodynamics, engineering principles, and materials science. Naval architects and yacht designers meticulously navigate through the intricacies of hull design, keel and rudder configuration, sail and rig design, balance, propulsion, scantling, stability, layout, and design evaluation to create vessels that excel in both form and function. The harmonious integration of these elements results in sailboats that are not just seaworthy but also a joy to sail, and this process is a testament to the art and science of sailboat design.

Click here to read about “ HARNESSING THE POWER OF ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE IN BOAT DESIGN “

Follow my Linkedin Newsletter here:  “LinkedIn Newsletter”

0 comments Leave a reply

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Recent Posts

• KEY LESSONS I LEARNED FROM MY FREELANCE JOURNEY IN 2023
• THE FREELANCE ECONOMY: KEY TRENDS AND PREDICTIONS FOR 2024
• THE RISE Of HDPE IN BOAT MANUFACTURING: TRENDS & BENEFITS
• THE CRITICAL ROLE OF FEASIBILITY STUDY IN BOAT DESIGN AND NAVAL ARCHITECTURE
• THE CHALLENGES Of SMALL CRAFT DESIGN COMPARED TO LARGER VESSELS

Recent Comments

• Casey Lim on HDPE BOAT PLANS
• BRYN BONGBONG on HDPE BOAT PLANS
• Keith on HDPE BOAT PLANS
• Daniel Desauriers on WHY HDPE BOATS?
• December 2023
• November 2023
• October 2023
• February 2023
• January 2023
• September 2022
• January 2021
• ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE
• boatbuilder
• BOAT CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES
• BOAT DESIGN COST
• boatdesign process
• CAREER PATHWAYS
• COMMERCIAL BOATS
• conventional boats
• custom boat
• DESIGN ADMINISTRATION
• DESIGN SPIRAL
• EXTREME CONDITIONS
• FEASIBILITY STUDY
• Freelance advantage
• freelance boat designer
• FREELANCE ECONOMY
• FREELANCE JOURNEY
• FRP Boat without Mold
• HDPE Collar
• INDIA'S MARITIME
• INVENTORY MANAGEMENT
• ISO STANDARDS
• Mass Production
• Monhull vs Catamaran
• Naval Architect
• Naval Architecture
• PLANING HULL
• Project Management
• Proven Hull
• PSYCHOLOGY OF BOAT DESIGN
• QUALITY CONTROL
• RECREATIONAL BOATS
• RISE OF HDPE
• ROYALTY AGREEMENTS
• SANDWICH VS SINGLE SKIN
• SOLOPRENEUR
• YACHT DESIGN COURSE

My Cruiser Life Magazine

Basics of Sailboat Hull Design – EXPLAINED For Owners

There are a lot of different sailboats in the world. In fact, they’ve been making sailboats for thousands of years. And over that time, mankind and naval architects (okay, mostly the naval architects!) have learned a thing or two.

If you’re wondering what makes one sailboat different from another, consider this article a primer. It certainly doesn’t contain everything you’d need to know to build a sailboat, but it gives the novice boater some ideas of what goes on behind the curtain. It will also provide some tips to help you compare different boats on the water, and hopefully, it will guide you towards the sort of boat you could call home one day.

Table of Contents

Displacement hulls, semi displacement hulls, planing hulls, history of sailboat hull design, greater waterline length, distinctive hull shape and fin keel designs, ratios in hull design, the hull truth and nothing but the truth, sail boat hull design faqs.

Basics of Hull Design

When you think about a sailboat hull and how it is built, you might start thinking about the shape of a keel. This has certainly spurred a lot of different designs over the years, but the hull of a sailboat today is designed almost independently of the keel. 

In fact, if you look at a particular make and model of sailboat, you’ll notice that the makers often offer it with a variety of keel options. For example, this new Jeanneau Sun Odyssey comes with either a full fin bulb keel, shallow draft bulb fin, or very shallow draft swing keel. Where older long keel designs had the keel included in the hull mold, today’s bolt-on fin keel designs allow the manufacturers more leeway in customizing a yacht to your specifications.

What you’re left with is a hull, and boat hulls take three basic forms.

• Displacement hull
• Semi-displacement hulls
• Planing hulls

Most times, the hull of a sailboat will be a displacement hull. To float, a boat must displace a volume of water equal in weight to that of the yacht. This is Archimedes Principle , and it’s how displacement hulled boats get their name.

The displacement hull sailboat has dominated the Maritimes for thousands of years. It has only been in the last century that other designs have caught on, thanks to advances in engine technologies. In short, sailboats and sail-powered ships are nearly always displacement cruisers because they lack the power to do anything else.

A displacement hull rides low in the water and continuously displaces its weight in water. That means that all of that water must be pushed out of the vessel’s way, and this creates some operating limitations. As it pushes the water, water is built up ahead of the boat in a bow wave. This wave creates a trough along the side of the boat, and the wave goes up again at the stern. The distance between the two waves is a limiting factor because the wave trough between them creates a suction. 

This suction pulls the boat down and creates drag as the vessel moves through the water. So in effect, no matter how much power is applied to a displacement hulled vessel, it cannot go faster than a certain speed. That speed is referred to as the hull speed, and it’s a factor of a boat’s length and width. 

For an average 38 foot sailboat, the hull speed is around 8.3 knots. This is why shipping companies competed to have the fastest ship for many years by building larger and larger ships.

While they might sound old-school and boring, displacement hulls are very efficient because they require very little power—and therefore very little fuel—to get them up to hull speed. This is one reason enormous container ships operate so efficiently. 

Of course, living in the 21st century, you undoubtedly have seen boats go faster than their hull speed. Going faster is simply a matter of defeating the bow wave in one way or another.

One way is to build the boat so that it can step up onto and ride the bow wave like a surfer. This is basically what a semi-displacement hull does. With enough power, this type of boat can surf its bow wave, break the suction it creates and beat its displacement hull speed.

With even more power, a boat can leave its bow wave in the dust and zoom past it. This requires the boat’s bottom to channel water away and sit on the surface. Once it is out of the water, any speed is achievable with enough power. 

But it takes enormous amounts of power to get a boat on plane, so planing hulls are hardly efficient. But they are fast. Speedboats are planing hulls, so if you require speed, go ahead and research the cost of a speedboat . 

The most stable and forgiving planing hull designs have a deep v hull. A very shallow draft, flat bottomed boat can plane too, but it provides an unforgiving and rough ride in any sort of chop.

If you compare the shapes of the sailboats of today with the cruising boat designs of the 1960s and 70s, you’ll notice that quite a lot has changed in the last 50-plus years. Of course, the old designs are still popular among sailors, but it’s not easy to find a boat like that being built today.

Today’s boats are sleeker. They have wide transoms and flat bottoms. They’re more likely to support fin keels and spade rudders. Rigs have also changed, with the fractional sloop being the preferred setup for most modern production boats.

Why have boats changed so much? And why did boats look so different back then?

One reason was the racing standards of the day. Boats in the 1960s were built to the IOR (International Offshore Rule). Since many owners raced their boats, the IOR handicaps standardized things to make fair play between different makes and models on the racecourse.

The IOR rule book was dense and complicated. But as manufacturers started building yachts, or as they looked at the competition and tried to do better, they all took a basic form. The IOR rule wasn’t the only one around . There were also the Universal Rule, International Rule, Yacht Racing Association Rul, Bermuda Rule, and a slew of others. 

Part of this similarity was the rule, and part of it was simply the collective knowledge and tradition of yacht building. But at that time, there was much less distance between the yachts you could buy from the manufacturers and those setting off on long-distance races.

Today, those wishing to compete in serious racing a building boat’s purpose-built for the task. As a result, one-design racing is now more popular. And similarly, pleasure boats designed for leisurely coastal and offshore hops are likewise built for the task at hand. No longer are the lines blurred between the two, and no longer are one set of sailors “making do” with the requirements set by the other set. 

Modern Features of Sailboat Hull Design

So, what exactly sets today’s cruising and liveaboard boats apart from those built-in decades past? 

Today’s designs usually feature plumb bows and the maximum beam carried to the aft end. The broad transom allows for a walk-through swim platform and sometimes even storage for the dinghy in a “garage.”

The other significant advantage of this layout is that it maximizes waterline length, which makes a faster boat. Unfortunately, while the boats of yesteryear might have had lovely graceful overhangs, their waterline lengths are generally no match for newer boats. 

The wide beam carried aft also provides an enormous amount of living space. The surface area of modern cockpits is nothing short of astounding when it comes to living and entertaining.

If you look at the hull lines or can catch a glimpse of these boats out of the water, you’ll notice their underwater profiles are radically different too. It’s hard to find a full keel design boat today. Instead, fin keels dominate, along with high aspect ratio spade rudders. 

The flat bottom boats of today mean a more stable boat that rides flatter. These boats can really move without heeling over like past designs. Additionally, their designs make it possible in some cases for these boats to surf their bow waves, meaning that with enough power, they can easily achieve and sometimes exceed—at least for short bursts—their hull speeds. Many of these features have been found on race boats for decades.

There are downsides to these designs, of course. The flat bottom boats often tend to pound when sailing upwind , but most sailors like the extra speed when heading downwind.

How Do You Make a Stable Hull

Ultimately, the job of a sailboat hull is to keep the boat afloat and create stability. These are the fundamentals of a seaworthy vessel. 

There are two types of stability that a design addresses . The first is the initial stability, which is how resistant to heeling the design is. For example, compare a classic, narrow-beamed monohull and a wide catamaran for a moment. The monohull has very little initial stability because it heels over in even light winds. That doesn’t mean it tips over, but it is relatively easy to make heel. 

A catamaran, on the other hand, has very high initial stability. It resists the heel and remains level. Designers call this type of stability form stability.

There is also secondary stability, or ultimate stability. This is how resistant the boat is to a total capsize. Monohull sailboats have an immense amount of ballast low in their keels, which means they have very high ultimate stability. A narrow monohull has low form stability but very high ultimate stability. A sailor would likely describe this boat as “tender,” but they would never doubt its ability to right itself after a knock-down or capsize.

On the other hand, the catamaran has extremely high form stability, but once the boat heels, it has little ultimate stability. In other words, beyond a certain point, there is nothing to prevent it from capsizing. 

Both catamarans and modern monohulls’ hull shapes use their beams to reduce the amount of ballast and weight . A lighter boat can sail fast, but to make it more stable, naval architects increase the beam to increase the form stability.

If you’d like to know more about how stable a hull is, you’ll want to learn about the Gz Curve , which is the mathematical calculation you can make based on a hull’s form and ultimate stabilities. 

How does a lowly sailor make heads or tails out of this? You don’t have to be a naval architect when comparing different designs to understand the basics. Two ratios can help you predict how stable a design will be .

The first is the displacement to length ratio . The formula to calculate it is D / (0.01L)^3 , where D is displacement in tons and L is waterline length in feet. But most sailboat specifications, like those found on  sailboatdata.com , list the D/L Ratio.

This ratio helps understand how heavy a boat is for its length. Heavier boats must move more water to make way, so a heavy boat is more likely to be slower. But, for the ocean-going cruiser, a heavy boat means a stable boat that requires much force to jostle or toss about. A light displacement boat might pound in a seaway, and a heavy one is likely to provide a softer ride.

The second ratio of interest is the sail area to displacement ratio. To calculate, take SA / (D)^0.67 , where SA is the sail area in square feet and D is displacement in cubic feet. Again, many online sites provide the ratio calculated for specific makes and models.

This ratio tells you how much power a boat has. A lower ratio means that the boat doesn’t have much power to move its weight, while a bigger number means it has more “get up and go.” Of course, if you really want to sail fast, you’d want the boat to have a low displacement/length and a high sail area/displacement. 

Multihull Sailboat Hulls

Multihull sailboats are more popular than ever before. While many people quote catamaran speed as their primary interest, the fact is that multihulls have a lot to offer cruising and traveling boaters. These vessels are not limited to coastal cruising, as was once believed. Most sizable cats and trimarans are ocean certified.

Both catamarans and trimaran hull designs allow for fast sailing. Their wide beam allows them to sail flat while having extreme form stability. 

Catamarans have two hulls connected by a large bridge deck. The best part for cruisers is that their big surface area is full of living space. The bridge deck usually features large, open cockpits with connecting salons. Wrap around windows let in tons of light and fresh air.

Trimarans are basically monohulls with an outrigger hull on each side. Their designs are generally less spacious than catamarans, but they sail even faster. In addition, the outer hulls eliminate the need for heavy ballast, significantly reducing the wetted area of the hulls. 

Boaters and cruising sailors don’t need to be experts in yacht design, but having a rough understanding of the basics can help you pick the right boat. Boat design is a series of compromises, and knowing the ones that designers and builders take will help you understand what the boat is for and how it should be used. 

What is the most efficient boat hull design?

The most efficient hull design is the displacement hull. This type of boat sits low in the water and pushes the water out of its way. It is limited to its designed hull speed, a factor of its length. But cruising at hull speed or less requires very little energy and can be done very efficiently. 

By way of example, most sailboats have very small engines. A typical 40-foot sailboat has a 50 horsepower motor that burns around one gallon of diesel every hour. In contrast, a 40-foot planing speedboat may have 1,000 horsepower (or more). Its multiple motors would likely be consuming more than 100 gallons per hour (or more). Using these rough numbers, the sailboat achieves about 8 miles per gallon, while the speedboat gets around 2 mpg.

What are sail boat hulls made of?

Nearly all modern sailboats are made of fiberglass. 

Traditionally, boats were made of wood, and many traditional vessels still are today. There are also metal boats made of steel or aluminum, but these designs are less common. Metal boats are more common in expedition yachts or those used in high-latitude sailing.

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

• OC Wally Cento
• 84 Mini Maxi
• IMOCA Open 60
• Consultancy Services
• 30m Blue Water Cruiser
• 25m Explorer Yacht
• 24m Fast Cruising Catamaran
• 23m Performance Cruiser
• 20m Explorer Yacht
• 20m High Performance Cruiser
• 18m Blue Water Cruiser
• 15m Performance Cruiser
• 15m Explorer Yacht
• 12m Explorer Yacht
• Multihull Design
• 18m Explorer Yacht
• 40m Blue Water Cruiser
• 40m Cruiser Racer
• 33m Performance Cruiser
• 30m Wally Cento
• 24m ORCsy Racer Cruiser
• 24m Day Sailer
• Carbon Component Design
• Yacht Performance Development
• CFD and Model Testing
• Twin Rudder Steering Systems
• Custom Deck Hardware
• Modifications and Refit
• VPP Routing and Sail Analysis
• Classic Yacht Refit & Optimisation
• Naval Architecture
• Engineering
• Rudder Design
• Brokerage Services
• 'Seahorse Magazine' #192
• 'Divoc' #190
• Lucent #180
• Influence #171
• 'Eora' #169
• 'The Three Brothers' #168
• 'Edenred' #165
• 'BHB3' #163
• 'Teata' #148
• 'Kite' #144
• ‘Sensei’ #131
• 'Gryphon' #106
• 'Horizon' #104
• 'Sabre II' #93
• 'Letto Di Pletto' #47
• 'Mowgli' #41
• 'Graybeard' #39
• 23.8m Ultime Trimaran
• 20.7m Orma Trimaran
• 18.28m Orma Trimaran
• 16.75m Cruising Catamaran
• 16.1m Cruising Catamaran
• 12.8m Crowther Shockwave Catamaran
• 9.1m Seacart 30 Trimaran
• 26.3m Aluminium Sloop
• 22.38m Aluminium Classic Yacht
• 21.0m Steel Schooner
• 21.0m Aluminium Cruising Ketch
• 20.0m Aluminium Explorer Yacht
• 20.0m Luca Brenta Racer Cruiser
• 19.6m Aluminium Bluewater Cruiser
• 19.2m Aluminium Lifting Keel Sloop
• 18.8m Custom Steel Sloop
• 18.23m Mylius Racer Cruiser
• 16.0m Sly Cruiser Racer
• 14.5m Aluminium Cruising yacht
• 13.87m Wooden Motor Sailer
• 11.6m Classic Pilot Cutter
• 25.25m Reichel Pugh Maxi
• 18.28m IMOCA 60 Nexans WeWise
• 18.28m IMOCA 60 'Canada Ocean Racing'
• 18.28m IMOCA 60 One Planet
• 15.85m TP52 Georgia
• 15.84m TP52 Racing Yacht 'Alizee'
• 15.25m Pegasus Open 50
• 12.8m Fast 40
• 10.89m Figaro 3
• 10.11m Sun Fast 3300
• 19.2m Lifting Keel Sloop
• 14.5m Aluminium Cruising Yacht

• About Yager Sails

Welcome to Yager Sails & Canvas

Furling Sails

Custom roller furlers and more

All New G-Spinn Sail

Hybrid sail that has the characteristics of an asymmetrical spinnaker and a genoa

Sails designed for Performance & strength

Classic Sails

Gaff,Sprit,Gunter Rig & Lugs sails

Genoa Sails

Performance Furling Sails in Radial & Crosscut

Reaching & Full Spinnakers in Radial Designs

Racing Sails

Quality and Durability

Drifter Sails

Radial Designed Drifters

Anchor Sails

Keeps boats into the wind

Canvas & Covers

Main Covers, Sheet Bags, Winch Covers and More!

At Yager Sails & Canvas we are dedicated to creating custom quality sails for our customers that are built to perform at a high level.  We have been building sails for over 30 years and have built just about every type of sail you could possibly need.  We manufacture right here in the USA and do so with great pride. We are a small sail loft and take the time to do things the right way, we do not cut corners.

We are constantly improving our techniques, equipment and materials.  While doing this, we have introduced an exciting proprietary sail called the  G-Spinn. The G-Spinn is a hybrid sail that has the characteristics of an asymmetrical spinnaker and a genoa. Be sure to ask about it for more details.

If you would like a quote on a sail design , fill out the form and we will get back to you right away.

What is 1+8=?

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Mason 33 Used Boat Review

Beneteau 311, Catalina 310 and Hunter 326 Used Boat Comparison

Maine Cat 41 Used Boat Review

Cheoy Lee Clipper 36 & 42 Used Boat Review

Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Thinking Through a Solar Power Installation

Stopping Mainsheet Twist

Working with High-Tech Ropes

Getting a Clue for the Blown-Out Clew

Monel Seizing Wire is Worth the Extra Cost

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

Boat Maintenance for the Technically Illiterate: Part 1

Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

Mastering Precision Drilling: How to Use Drill Guides

Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

Those Extras you Don’t Need But Love to Have

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery

Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo

On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

On Watch: America’s Cup

On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

Dear Readers

Chafe Protection for Dock Lines

• Sailboat Reviews

Practical Sailor Takes a Look at Trends in Modern Boat Design

Is the quest for speed and interior comfort trumping smart design in todays sailboats.

Practical Sailor editors have noticed the increasing tendency in newer-model sailboats to be ill-mannered in gusty conditions. Establishing balance between the sails and the hull is one of the main factors in quality boat design. For correct trim, many things must be considered: the ballast package location, the combined longitudinal center of gravity (LCG), and the longitudinal center of buoyancy. At the same time, to maintain a balanced helm, the keel must promote sufficient lead (the fore and aft distance between the center of effort and the center of lateral resistance). To highlight how these boat design principles play out, Practical Sailor looks at classic sailboats such as the Bill Shaw-designed Pearson 32, Ericson 41, Valiant 40, and Peterson 44, and compares their keel/sail ratios and lead values to more modern sailboat designs such as the Catalina, Hunter, Tartan, and Beneteau.

In the course of taking out boats for testing, Practical Sailor editors have observed an increased tendency for new-model sailboats to be ill-mannered in gusty conditions. We have been watching this trend for several years, and it seems to be becoming more usual than unusual.

In a typical situation, we will be sailing the test boat on the wind in 12 or so knots of breeze and everything is fine. Then, the breeze picks up to about 15 knots and the helm loads up. OK, thats to be expected, so we flatten the main, drop down the traveler, and that takes care of it.

Then we get a puff. Were already on the point of needing to reef, so in the puff, were overcanvassed. Instead of just heeling farther, the boat begins to round up. Fighting it with the helm is hard work, and easing the main so it luffs doesn’t help much.

Photo by Ralph Naranjo

We take in a reef, which usually means we roll in a bit of the jib or a bit of the main, or both, and the helm lightens up. We trim to the new wind and sail along, a bit slower now in the light spots, but then the next gust comes along, and the helm immediately loads up again.

In the worst case weve experienced, the boat rounded up so quickly that it tacked, even though the helm was hard over in the opposite direction. To prove that wasnt a fluke caused by a temporary diversion into a parallel universe, it did the same thing on the other tack.

Practical Sailor editors are old enough to remember a generation of cruising boats that didnt behave in this manner. For sure, there have always been twitchy boats, but most, when hit by a gust, would heel a little more, put some pressure on the wheel or tiller, and once the boat picked up speed, the pressure would come right off. A boat like that will sail for a long time with a loose lashing on the helm.

So, where does this bad habit come from? Several trends in modern cruising yacht design can share the blame. One of them is builders inclination to tilt their designs toward the performance end of the cruisers spectrum. Many recent and current cruising boats, if suitably fitted out with racing sails and the hardware and software to tweak them, could put up an impressive show on the race course.

The sensitivity to trim that accompanies such potential isn’t always suited to cruising shorthanded or with a family, when balance and good manners are key both to enjoyment and, to a degree, safety.

Establishing Balance

Many factors contribute to the balance of a sailboat. The obvious and principal pair are the sails and the hull. When working up a new design, the architect develops these in close association, but both are in turn influenced by other aspects of the boats design as it evolves.

In the standard approach, the designer works up preliminary drawings to express the basic requirements of the design brief, which normally include a desired length, displacement, cabin arrangement, and sailplan to provide the desired performance.

He then sketches out the hull lines (the matrix of contours that define its three-dimensional shape and its volume) to enclose the interior and meet expressed performance goals. The preliminary lines also serve as a basis on which to perform a number of calculations, one of them being the location of the center of buoyancy (CB).

With everything roughed out, the designer then “weighs” every item that will go into the complete boat, from the hull laminate to the toothbrush holder, but excluding the ballast. He combines these weights and their locations on the three axes, X, Y, and Z, to calculate the center of gravity (CG) of the whole package. Computer programs have helped to speed up this process and make volume calculations more accurate, but the process hasn’t changed much.

For the boat to float on its desired lines, the ballast package must then be designed and located to bring the combined longitudinal CG (LCG) of hull and ballast to the same fore-and-aft location as the CB (LCB). Once everything has been resolved satisfactorily, the designer can finalize the lines, carry out the necessary calculations, and establish shape and locations for the keel and the sailplan.

On most boats of current design, the ballast also constitutes the fin keel, and in that role, its location determines the center of lateral resistance (CLR), which in conjunction with the center of effort (CE) of the sailplan, influences how the boat balances under sail.

Even as boat design procedures have evolved from three-dimensional modeling using half hulls, through two-dimensional modeling using pen on vellum, to three-dimensional virtual modeling on computers, the fundamental principles have remained constant. One of the fundamental values used for predicting the proclivities of a boats helm is the dimension termed “lead.” Lead, pronounced “leed,” is the fore and aft distance between the CE and the CLR, expressed as a percentage of the waterline length (DWL).

“Skenes Elements of Yacht Design,” as revised by Francis S. Kinney, and other references for yacht design provide rules of thumb for calculating lead from the sailplan and the hull profile. (See illustration above).

Looking at the diagram, its easy to see how lead is an elusive quantity. First of all, no boat sails with the sailplan as shown-the sails are never flat and on centerline. The traditional range for lead places the CE forward of the CLR by 14 to 19 percent of DWL. This value is lifted from “Skenes,” for years the first reference for any designer. Since that book was written and updated, hull forms have changed, and with them, optimum values for lead.

On designs with fin keels, lead is often calculated with reference to the keel alone. One feature remains constant whatever the design. Moving the centers closer together-reducing lead-increases the tendency to weather helm. Moving them apart reduces that tendency. If the lead is too great, the result may be lee helm, which is generally considered undesirable-and is in fact, rare.

In Kinneys prime years, the 1960s to the 1980s, the basic working sailplan of a sloop included a 150-percent genoa, which would have the effect of moving the CE closer to the CLR. Many designs today have headsails with short or even no overlap and very often a full-battened mainsail with lots of roach. The different aerodynamic characteristics of such rigs might well affect optimum lead, something which designers can only determine through experience. (If a boatbuilder offers an in-mast furling mainsail as an option, its effect on lead will differ from that of the “classic” sailboat.)

The effective CLR can also be very different from that calculated. On a deep-bodied, full-keel hull, that difference simply might be the difference between the geometric center and the center of hydrodynamic pressure of the whole profile.

A sharp bow with a pronounced “chin” might well move the effective CLR forward. On a modern, fin-keeled boat with a shallow, broad canoe body like that of a dinghy, the keel makes a proportionately larger contribution to lateral resistance, so the location of the keel will strongly influence where that resistance operates.

Obviously the rudder, too, is part of the lateral plane, but if our objective is to sail with light to neutral pressure on the helm, under normal conditions, it should not be making a significant contribution to lateral resistance. Its role is to provide a means to change the boats direction and to compensate for the constant fluctuations in the forces applied to the boat in the normal course of sailing. A certain amount of pressure in the form of weather helm helps by providing positive feedback to the helmsman on the state of balance. That said, on many racing hulls, the rudder is designed to contribute lift and has an active role in driving the boat to windward. (It is worth noting that those wide-bodied race boats also tend to have twin rudders.)

Then and Now

Even in the age of computer modeling, yacht design remains a series of compromises. At the moment, it seems the pendulum has swung to a point where high-volume, wide-beam shapes dominate. With them come large rigs to overcome skin drag and its negative effect in light air. As a result, theres a need to sail the vessel as flat as possible or suffer the consequences.

The sailplan and outboard profiles of boats from different eras represent the shift in yacht design that has occurred during recent decades. The modern boats have longer proportional waterlines, indicating higher potential speed. It also means that the boats immersed volume, or displacement, has been distributed over a greater length.

Given two boats of similar displacement like the classic Pearson 32 and the modern Tartan 3400 (above), the Tartan winds up with a shallower canoe body. This also contributes to its being potentially faster and, if both boats had the same draft, would give the keel a slight advantage in span, and therefore effectiveness to windward.

So far so good, but a shallower canoe body forces the cabin sole upward, especially if the belowdecks accommodations are to take full advantage of the wide beam favored in the modern hull. To achieve comparable headroom with its older counterpart, the cabintop has to go up, too, and to ensure sitting headroom on the settees under the sidedeck, so does the freeboard.

Ultimately, the whole deck moves upward. To ensure the boom doesn’t sweep everybody out of the cockpit during an unplanned jibe, the boom too goes up. If sail area is not to be compromised, the entire mainsail goes up, and with it, its center of effort. The bigger the boat, the less pronounced these differences become as the proportions become more relaxed.

Differences are visible, too, between the boats keels; the modern Tartans is smaller in area. While it might be claimed that less wetted surface promises higher sailing speeds in light air, some builders accept a smaller keel to simplify the manufacture of the hull.

In a perfect world, the designer draws a keel to suit the boats sail area and other characteristics, places it to obtain the desired sailing performance, then massages the needed ballast to both fit the keel and trim the boat correctly. The volume of the ballast is usually less than that of the keel, and the builder has to do some intricate laminating work to mold a keel to receive ballast internally or a stub to which to bolt it externally.

On many production boats today, the keels are bolted directly to the bottom of a fair canoe body, a practice which eliminates much labor. The consequence is that the area of the keel is determined by the weight, and therefore the volume, of the ballast. To achieve the desired hydrodynamic properties and mechanical strength-it mustnt bend under the influence of normal sailing loads-a given volume of ballast can be formed into a limited range of shapes. Placing ballast in a bulb at the bottom aids the keels efficiency by creating an endplate effect and raises stiffness by placing ballast low, but it means that the keels lateral plane is sharply reduced.

For a more dramatic representation of how changes in keel design can affect helm balance, compare a Cruising Club of America (CCA) design like the Ericson 41 above, to a modern equivalent with comparable sail area like the Beneteau 46.

When sailing, two boats are subjected to similar forces on the sails. Resisting that side force are the immersed hull, the keel, and the rudder. If the hulls offer similar resistance, the remaining force is shared between the keel and rudder. If one keel is smaller than the other (as is clearly the case here), the effect is to increase the share taken by the rudder.

When the sails are trimmed properly and all is in balance, the rudder will carry a small load. If however, you hit a gust, the rudder must pick up a high proportion of the added side thrust until balance is restored, usually by some adjustment to sail trim.

Simply put, boats of the general modern type are not forgiving in changeable conditions, say, for example when the apparent wind is in the 12- to 18-knot range. At the higher end, youd want to be reefed; at the lower end, probably not.

On a day when you expect the wind to soften rather than harden, youd rather not put in the reef, so that you can maintain speed in the lulls. In the puffs, you want your hands free to ease the traveler and flatten the jib, which is hard to do if the helm is a handful. Compounding the problem on most boats, the mainsail controls are usually not within reach of the helm.

On racing boats, such sensitivity isn’t an issue. On the contrary, sufficient crew are on hand to make adjustments on the fly as quickly and often as needed to keep the boat sailing at her fastest.

Cruising boats are often sailed shorthanded and by crews who are not looking for a constant physical workout. An autopilot might be doing most of the steering, and good balance is helpful in protecting it from having to work too hard-or from being overpowered.

Another striking difference between the older and newer designs is visible in the plan (overhead) view. By 1980, cruising-boat hulls were already becoming beamy relative to boats of the 1960s and 1970s. The current trend is to carry the beam aft, so that in the region of the rudder, its as much as 85 percent of the maximum beam, far wider than the 55 percent to 60 percent once considered acceptable. The principal beneficiary of this extra breadth is the boats interior-builders often offer twin double cabins aft where a generation ago they might have squeezed in a quarter berth and a cockpit locker. The cockpit, too, becomes roomier, and the transom, scooped and sculpted, is transformed into a swim platform and dinghy dock.

Photo by Jarrod Scanlon

All this additional boat aft adds weight aft, in both construction materials and outfit. To compensate, the ballast-that is to say, the keel-has to be fitted farther forward.

The full beam aft does provide a significant boost to the boats ability to carry sail. As the boat heels, the center of buoyancy moves quickly outboard, away from the center of gravity. This lengthens the righting arm, giving a positive contribution toward stability, but it also moves the immersed centerline of the hull away from the static centerline along which both the keel and the rudder are attached. Depending on the hulls shape, this can create a distortion in the immersed volume, which can in turn affect the dynamics acting on it.

Effect of Keel Area

Another factor entering the equation is the area of the keel. This, too, is apparent when comparing the drawings of the older and newer generation boats. Many of the standard tracts on the design of sailing yachts are, lets say, vague on what keel area is adequate or even desirable, although many designers have come up with their own formulas.

Because the keel is reacting in the water to forces generated on the sails by the wind, it makes sense that the area of a fin keel should be related in some way to sail area.

When naval architect Dave Gerr took over as director of the Westlawn Institute of Marine Technology, he found the course materials for sailing yacht design had little detailed explanation on this topic, a gap he subsequently filled. Briefly, he recommends no fin keel should be less that 2.5 percent of the sail area (mainsail 100 percent foretriangle) and need be no more than 5 percent. The smaller value is appropriate for a racing boat with a full crew aboard to trim and tweak the sails to every change in the wind. The larger area is suited to cruising boats, which need to be more forgiving to shorthanded crews.

Current Design Trends

In the past, racing measurement rules have been criticized because the boats designed to compete under them have become type-formed, sometimes with unwelcome consequences in how they handle. We might just as easily level criticism at present-day marketing and manufacturing methods for doing the same to cruising boats.

Lets face it, but for a few differences in sailplans and keel shapes, modern cruising sailboats are quite generic below the sheerline. They are all beamy; they carry their beam aft; they have long waterlines; they have dinghy-like underbodies; and they have spade rudders. The forces that have created this shape have at least as much to do with how many people can sleep and shower in them comfortably as with how the boats will sail.

Dishing out the hull shape in this manner makes it fairly easy to push through the water, but arranging the keel, rudder, and sails so they work in concert has become a more complex problem, exacerbated by having to compensate for extra weight of accommodations aft, something thats less of an issue in raceboats.

The byproduct of these design parameters is zesty performance, a bonus for the marketing department, but speed for its own sake is not the first priority of cruising sailors. In the brochure for the Beneteau 37, the boats polar diagram shows a maximum theoretical sailing speed of over 12 knots in 30 knots of wind. When cruising sailors encounter 30-knot winds, they are more likely to hunker down in the expectation it will blow even harder than they are to set the chute to go surfing. What they want is a boat that will take readily to hunkering, and all the signs indicate those boats are getting fewer in number . . . and they are mostly older designs.

• The Balancing Act
• Pearson 32 vs. Tartan 3400
• Ericson 41 vs. Beneteau 46
• Practical Sailor Design Guide
• The Modern Hull and Helm Balance

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

The Perfect Family Sailboat! Hunter 27-2 – Boat Review

Pettit EZ-Poxy – How to Paint a Boat

The Boat From True Spirit – Sparkman & Stephens

Top 5 Boat Hacks – Boat Maintenance Tips and Tricks

Latest sailboat review.

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

Sail Rigs And Types - The Only Guide You Need

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

A well-designed sailboat is a thing of pure beauty. Whether you're a proud owner of one, a guest on one, or a shore-side admirer, you'll fall in love with the gliding sails, the excitement of a race, and the eco-friendly nature of these sophisticated yet magnificent vessels. With good sails, great design, and regular maintenance, sails and rigs are an important part of a sailboat.

If you’re thinking about going sailing, one of the first things you have to understand is the variety of modern sail plans. Unlike old sailboats, modern sailboats don't need huge, overlapping headsails and multiple masts just to get moving. In the past, when sailboats were heavy, keels were long, the only way to get the boat moving was with a massive relative sail area. You needed as much square footage as you could just to get your sailboat moving. But with the invention of fiberglass hulls, aluminum or composite masts, high-tensile but low diameter lines and stats, and more efficient sails, sailboats no longer need to plan for such large sail plans.. Still, there are various rig styles, from the common sloop, to the comfortable cat-rig, to the dual masted ketch and schooner, there are various sail types and rigs to choose from. The most important thing is to know the different types of sails and rigs and how they can make your sailing even more enjoyable.

There are different types of sails and rigs. Most sailboats have one mainsail and one headsail. The mainsail is generally fore-and-aft rigged and is triangular shaped. Various conditions and courses require adjustments to the sails on the boats, and, other than the mainsail, most boats can switch out their secondary sail depending on various conditions.. Do you want to sail upwind or go downwind? You cannot hoist just any sail and use it. It's, therefore, of great importance to understand how and when to use each sail type.

In this in-depth article, we'll look at various sail types and rigs, and how to use them to make your sailing more enjoyable.

Table of contents

Different Sail Types

It is perhaps worth noting that a sailboat is only as good as its sails. The very heart of sailing comes in capturing the wind using artfully trimmed sails and turning that into motion. . Ask any good sailor and he'll tell you that knowing how and when to trim the sails efficiently will not only improve the overall performance of your boat but will elevate your sailing experience. In short, sails are the driving force of sailboats.

As such, it's only natural that you should know the different types of sails and how they work. Let's first highlight different sail types before going into the details.

• Jib - triangular staysail
• Spinnaker - huge balloon-shaped downwind sail for light airs
• Genoa - huge jib that overlaps the mainsail
• Gennaker - a combination of a spinnaker and genoa
• Code zero - reaching genoa for light air 
• Windseeker - tall, narrow, high-clewed, and lightweight jib
• Drifter - versatile light air genoa made from particularly lightweight cloth
• Storm jib - a smaller jib meant for stormy conditions
• Trysail - This is a smaller front-and-aft sail for heavy weather

The mainsail is the principal sail on a boat. It's generally set aft of the mainmast. Working together with the jib, the mainsail is designed to create the lift that drives the sailboat windward. That being said, the mainsail is a very powerful component that must always be kept under control.

As the largest sail, and the geometric center of effort on the boat, the mainsail is tasked with capturing the bulk of the wind that's required to propel the sailboat. The foot, the term for the bottom of any sail, secures to the boom, which allows you to trim the sail to your heading. The luff, the leading edge of the sail, is attached to the mast. An idealized mainsail would be able to swing through trim range of 180°, the full semi-circle aft of the mast, though in reality, most larger boats don’t support this full range of motion, as a fully eased sail can occasionally be unstable in heavy breeze.

. As fully controlling the shape of the mainsail is crucial to sailing performance, there are many different basic mainsail configurations. For instance, you can get a full-batten mainsail, a regular mainsail with short battens, or a two-plus-two mainsail with two full-length battens. Hyper-high performance boats have even begun experimenting with winged sails which are essentially trimmable airplane wings! Moreover, there are numerous sail controls that change the shape by pulling at different points on the sail, boom, or mast. Reefing, for instance, allows you to shorten the sail vertically, reducing the amount of sail area when the boat is overpowered.

Features of a Mainsail

Several features will affect how a particular sail works and performs. Some features will, of course, affect the cost of the sail while others may affect its longevity. All in all, it's essential to decide the type of mainsail that's right for you and your sailing application.

Sail Battens, the Roach, and the Leech

The most difficult part of the sail to control, but also the most important, are the areas we refer to as the leech and the roach. The roach is the part of the sail that extends backwards past the shortest line between the clew, at the end of the boom, and the top of the mast. It makes up roughly the back third of the sail. The leech is the trailing edge of the sail, the backmost curve of the roach. Together, these two components control the flow of the air off the back of the sail, which greatly affects the overall sail performance. If the air stalls off the backside of the sail, you will find a great loss in performance. Many sail controls, including the boom vang, backstay, main halyard, and even the cunningham, to name a few, focus on keeping this curve perfect. 

As for parts of the sail itself, battens control the overall horizontal shape of the sail. Battens are typically made from fiberglass or wood and are built into batten pockets. They're meant to offer support and tension to maintain the sail shape Depending on the sail technology you want to use, you may find that full battens, which extend from luff to leech, or short battens, just on the trailing edge, are the way to go. Fully battened sails tend to be more expensive, but also higher performance.

Fully Battened Mainsails

They're generally popular on racing multihulls as they give you a nice solid sail shape which is crucial at high speeds. In cruising sailboats , fully battened mainsails have a few benefits such as:

• They prevent the mainsail from ragging. This extends the life of the sail, and makes maneuvers and trimming easier for the crew.
• It provides shape and lift in light-air conditions where short-battened mainsails would collapse.

On the other hand, fully-battened mainsails are often heavier, made out of thicker material, and can chafe against the standing rigging with more force when sailing off the wind.

Short Battens

On the other hand, you can choose a mainsail design that relies mostly on short battens, towards the leech of the sail. This tends to work for lighter cloth sails, as the breeze, the headsail, and the rigging help to shape the sail simply by the tension of the rig and the flow of the wind. The battens on the leech help to preserve the shape of the sail in the crucial area where the air is flowing off the back of the sail, keeping you from stalling out the entire rig.

The only potential downside is that these short battens deal with a little bit of chafe and tension in their pockets, and the sail cloth around these areas ought to be reinforced. If your sails do not have sufficient reinforcement here, or you run into any issues related to batten chafe, a good sail maker should be able to help you extend the life of your sails for much less than the price of a new set.

How to Hoist the Mainsail

Here's how to hoist the mainsail, assuming that it relies on a slab reefing system and lazy jacks and doesn't have an in-mast or in-boom furling system.

• ‍Maintain enough speed for steeragewhile heading up into the wind
• Slacken the mainsheet, boom vang, and cunningham
• Make sure that the lazy jacks do not catch the ends on the battens by pulling the lazy jacks forward.
• Ensure that the reefing runs are free to run and the proper reefs are set if necessary.
• Raise the halyard as far as you can depending on pre-set reefs.
• Tension the halyard to a point where a crease begins to form along the front edge
• Re-set the lazy jacks
• Trim the mainsail properly while heading off to your desired course

So what's Right for You?

Your mainsail will depend on how you like sailing your boat and what you expect in terms of convenience and performance. That being said, first consult the options that the boatbuilder or sailmakers suggest for your rig. When choosing among the various options, consider what you want from the sail, how you like to sail, and how much you're willing to spend on the mainsail.

The headsail is principally the front sail in a fore-and-aft rig. They're commonly triangular and are attached to or serve as the boat’s forestay. They include a jib and a genoa. 

A jib is a triangular sail that is set ahead of the foremost sail. For large boats, the roto-furling jib has become a common and convenient way to rig and store the jib. Often working in shifts with spinnakers, jibs are the main type of headsails on modern sailboats. Jibs take advantage of Bournoulli’s Principle to break the incoming breeze for the mainsail, greatly increasing the speed and point of any boat. By breaking the incoming wind and channeling it through what we call the ‘slot,’ the horizontal gap between the leech of the jib and the luff of the mainsail, the jib drastically increases the efficiency of your mainsail. It additionally balances the helm on your rudder by pulling the bow down, as the mainsail tends to pull the stern down. .

The main aim of the jib is to increase the sail area for a given mast size. It improves the aerodynamics of the mainsails so that your sailboat can catch more wind and thereby sail faster, especially in light air

Using Jibs on Modern Sailboats

In the modern contexts, jib’s mainly serve  increase the performance and overall stability of the mainsail. The jib can also reduce the turbulence of the mainsail on the leeward side.

On Traditional Vessels

Traditional vessels such as schooners have about three jibs. The topmast carried a jib topsail, the main foresail is called the jib, while the innermost jib is known as the staysail. The first two were employed almost exclusively by clipper ships.

How to Rig the Jibs

There are three basic ways to rig the jib.

Track Sheets - A relatively modern approach to the self-tacking jib, this entails placing all the trimming hardware on a sliding track forward of the mast. This means that on each tack, the hardware slides from one side of the boat to the other. This alleviates the need to switch sheets and preserves the trim angle on both sides, though it can be finnicky and introduce friction.

Sheet up the Mast - This is a very popular approach and for a good reason. Hoist the jib sheet up the mast high enough to ensure that there's the right tension through the tack. Whether internally or externally, the sheet returnsto the deck and then back to the cockpit just like the rest of the mast baselines. The fact the hardware doesn't move through the tacks is essential in reducing friction.

Sheet Forward - This method revolves around ensuring that the jib sheet stays under constant pressure so that it does not move through the blocks in the tacks. This is possible if the through-deck block is extremely close to the jib tack. Your only challenge will only be to return the sheet to the cockpit. This is, however, quite challenging and can cause significant friction.

Dual Sheeting - The traditional method, especially on smaller dinghies, though it is not self-tacking. This requires a two ended or two separate sheet system, where one sheet runs to a block on starboard, and the other to port. Whenever you tack or gybe, this means you have to switch which sheet is active and which is slack, which is ok for well crewed boats, but a potential issue on under-crewed boats.

Another important headsail, a genoa is essentially a large jib that usually overlaps the mainsail or extends past the mast, especially when viewed from the other side. In the past, a genoa was known as the overlapping jib and is technically used on twin-mast boats and single-mast sloops such as ketches and yawls. A genoa has a large surface area, which is integral in increasing the speed of the vessel both in moderate and light winds.

Genoas are generally characterized by the percentage they cover. In most cases, sail racing classes stipulate the limit of a genoa size. In other words, genoas are usually classified by coverage.

Top-quality genoa trim is of great importance, especially if the wind is forward of the beam. This is because the wind will first pass over the genoa before the mainsail. As such, a wrongly sheeted genoa can erroneously direct the wind over the mainsail,spelling doom to your sailing escapades. While you can perfectly adjust the shape of a genoa using the mast rake, halyard tension, sheet tension, genoa car positioning, and backstay tension, furling and unfurling a genoa can be very challenging, especially in higher winds.

That being said, here are the crucial steps to always keep in mind.

• Unload and ease the loaded genoa sheet by going to a broad reach
• Do not use the winch; just pull on the furling line
• Keep a very small amount of pressure or tension on the loaded genoa sheet
• Secure the furling line and tighten the genoa sheets
• Get on the proper point of sail
• Have the crew help you and release the lazy genoa sheets
• Maintain a small tension while easing out the furling line
• Pull-on a loaded genoa sheet
• Close or cleat off the rope clutch when the genoa is unfurled
• Trim the genoa

To this end, it's important to note that genoas are popular in some racing classes. This is because they only categorize genoas based on the fore-triangle area covered, which essentially allows a genoa to significantly increase the actual sail area. On the contrary, keep in mind that tacking a genoa is quite a bit harder than a jib, as the overlapping area can get tangled with the mast and shrouds. It's, therefore, important to make sure that the genoa is carefully tended, particularly when tacking.

Downwind Sails

Modern sailboats are a lot easier to maneuver thanks to the fore-and-aft rig. Unfortunately, when sailing downwind they catch less wind, and downwind sails are a great way of reducing this problem. They include the spinnaker and the gennaker.

A spinnaker will, without a doubt, increase your sailing enjoyment. But why are they often buried in the cabin of cruising boats? Well, the first few attempts to rig and set a spinnaker can be difficult without enough help and guidance. Provided a solid background, however, spinnakers are quite straightforward and easy to use and handle with teamwork and enough practice. More importantly, spinnakers can bring a light wind passage to life and can save your engine.

Spinnakers are purposely designed for sailing off the wind; they fill with wind and balloon out in front of your sailboat. Structured with a lightweight fabric such as nylon, the spinnaker is also known as a kite or chute, as they look like parachutes both in structure and appearance. 

A perfectly designed spinnaker should have taut leading edges when filled. This mitigates the risk of lifting and collapsing. A spinnaker should have a smooth curve when filled and devoid of depressions and bubbles that might be caused by the inconsistent stretching of the fabric. The idea here is that anything other than a smooth curve may reduce the lift and thereby reduce performance.

Types of Spinnakers

There are two main types of spinnakers: symmetric spinnakers and asymmetric spinnakers.

Asymmetric Spinnakers

Flown from a spinnaker pole or bowsprit fitted to the bow of the boat, asymmetric spinnakers resemble large jibs and have been around since the 19th century. The concept of asymmetric spinnaker revolves around attaching the tack of the spinnaker at the bow and pulling it around during a gybe.

Asymmetric spinnakers have two sheets just like a jib., These sheets are attached at the clew and never interact directly with the spinnaker pole. This is because the other corner of the spinnaker is fixed to the bowsprit. The asymmetric spinnaker works when you pull in one sheet while releasing the other. This makes it a lot easier to gybe but is less suited to sailing directly downwind. There is the loophole of having the asymmetric spinnaker gybed to the side opposite of the boom, so that the boat is sailing ‘wing-on-wing,’ though this is a more advanced maneuver, generally reserved for certain conditions and tactical racing situations.

On the contrary, the asymmetric spinnaker is perfect for fast planing dinghies. This is because such vessels have speeds that generate apparent wind forward. Because asymmetrics, by nature, prefer to sail shallower downwind angles, this apparent wind at high speeds makes the boat think that it is sailing higher than it really is, allowing you to drive a little lower off the breeze than normal. . In essence, the asymmetric spinnaker is vital if you're looking for easy handling.

Symmetric Spinnakers

Symmetric spinnakers are a classic sail type that has been used for centuries for controlling boats by lines known as a guy and a sheet. The guy, which is a windward line, is attached to the tack of the sail and stabilized by a spinnaker pole. The sheet, which is the leeward line, is attached to the clew of the spinnaker and is essential in controlling the shape of the spinnaker sail.

When set correctly, the leading edges of the symmetric spinnaker should be almost parallel to the wind. This is to ensure that the airflow over the leading edge remains attached. Generally, the spinnaker pole should be at the right angles to the apparent wind and requires a lot of care when packing.

The main disadvantage of this rig is the need to gybe the spinnaker pole whenever you gybe the boat. This is a complicated maneuver, and is one of the most common places for spinnakers to rip or get twisted. If, however, you can master this maneuver, you can sail at almost any angle downwind!

How to Use Spinnaker Effectively

If you decide to include the spinnakers to your sailboat, the sailmaker will want to know the type of boat you have, what kind of sailing you do, and where you sail. As such, the spinnaker that you end up with should be an excellent and all-round sail and should perform effectively off the breeze

The type of boat and where you'll be sailing will hugely influence the weight of your spinnaker cloth. In most cases, cruising spinnakers should be very light, so if you've decided to buy a spinnaker, make sure that it's designed per the type of your sailboat and where you will be sailing. Again, you can choose to go for something lighter and easier to set if you'll be sailing alone or with kids who are too young to help.

Setting up Spinnakers

One of the main reasons why sailors distrust spinnakers is because they don't know how to set them up. That being said, a perfectly working spinnaker starts with how you set it up and this revolves around how you carefully pack it and properly hook it up. You can do this by running the luff tapes and ensuring that the sails are not twisted when packed into the bag. If you are using large spinnakers, the best thing to do is make sure that they're set in stops to prevent the spinnakers from filling up with air before you even hoist them fully.

But even with that, you cannot fully set the spinnaker while sailing upwind. Make sure to bear away and have your pole ready to go as you turn downwind. You should then bear away to a reach before hoisting. Just don't hoist the spinnakers from the bow as this can move the weight of the crew and equipment forward.

Used when sailing downwind, a gennaker is asymmetric sail somewhere between a genoa and a spinnaker. It sets itself apart because it  gennaker is a free-flying asymmetric spinnaker but it is tacked to the bowsprit like the jib.

Let's put it into perspective. Even though the genoa is a great sail for racing and cruising, sailors realized that it was too small to be used in a race or for downwind sail and this is the main reason why the spinnaker was invented. While the spinnakers are large sails that can be used for downwind sail, they are quite difficult to handle especially if you're sailing shorthanded. As such, this is how a gennaker came to be: it gives you the best of both worlds.

Gennakers are stable and easy to fly and will add to your enjoyment and downwind performance.

The Shape of a Gennaker

As we've just noted, the gennaker is asymmetrical. It doesn't attach to the forestay like the genoa but has a permanent fitting from the mast to bow. It is rigged exactly like a spinnaker but its tack is fastened to the bowsprit. This is fundamentally an essential sail if you're looking for something to bridge the gap between a genoa and a spinnaker.

Setting a Gennaker

When cruising, the gennaker is set with the tack line from the bow, a halyard, and a sheet that's led to the aft quarter. Attach the tack to a furling unit and attach it to a fitting on the hull near the very front of the sailboat. You can then attach the halyard that will help in pulling it up to the top of the mast before attaching it to the clew. The halyard can then run back to the winches to make the controlling of the sail shape easier, just like when using the genoa sail.

In essence, a gennaker is a superb sail that will give you the maximum versatility of achieving the best of both a genoa and a spinnaker, especially when sailing downwind. This is particularly of great importance if you're cruising by autopilot or at night.

Light Air Sails

Even though downwind sails can be used as light air sails, not all light air sails can be used for downwind sailing. In other words, there's a level of difference between downwind sails and light air sails. Light air sails include code zero, windseeker, and drifter reacher.

A cross between an asymmetrical spinnaker and a genoa, a code zero is a highly modern sail type that's generally used when sailing close to the wind in light air. Although the initial idea of code zero was to make a larger genoa, it settled on a narrow and flat spinnaker while upholding the shape of a genoa.

Modern boats come with code zero sails that can be used as soon as the sailboat bears off close-hauled even a little bit. It has a nearly straight luff and is designed to be very flat for close reaching. This sail is designed to give your boat extra performance in light winds, especially in boats that do not have overlapping genoas. It also mitigates the problem of loss of power when you are reaching with a non-overlapping headsail. Really, it is closer to a light air jib that sacrifices a little angle for speed.

In many conditions, a code zero sail can go as high as a sailboat with just a jib. By hoisting a code zero, you'll initially have to foot off about 15 degrees to fill it and get the power that you require to heel and move the boat. The boat will not only speed up but will also allow you to put the bow up while also doing the same course as before you set the zero. In essence, code zero can be an efficient way of giving your boat about 30% more speed and this is exactly why it's a vital inventory item in racing sailboats.

When it comes to furling code zero, the best way to do it is through a top-down furling system as this will ensure that you never get a twist in the system.

Generally used when a full size and heavier sail doesn't stay stable or pressurized, a windseeker is a very light sail that's designed for drifting conditions. This is exactly why they're designed with a forgiving cloth to allow them to handle these challenging conditions.

The windseeker should be tacked at the headstay with two sheets on the clew. To help this sail fill in the doldrums, you can heel the boat to whatever the apparent leeward side is and let gravity help you maintain a good sail shape while reaching.The ideal angle of a windseeker should be about 60 degrees.

Though only used in very specific conditions, the windseeker is so good at this one job that it is worth the investment if you plan on a long cruise. Still, you can substitute most off the breeze sails for this in a pinch, with slightly less performance gain, likely with more sacrifices in angle to the breeze. 

Drifter Reacher

Many cruising sailors often get intimidated by the idea of setting and trimming a drifter if it's attached to the rig at only three corners or if it's free-flying. But whether or not a drifter is appropriate for your boat will hugely depend on your boat's rig, as well as other specific details such as your crew's ability to furl and unfurl the drifter and, of course, your intended cruising grounds.

But even with that, the drifter remains a time-honored sail that's handy and very versatile. Unlike other light air sails, the drifter perfectly carries on all points of sails as it allows the boat to sail close-hauled and to tack. It is also very easy to control when it's set and struck. In simpler terms, a drifter is principally a genoa that's built of lightweight fabric such as nylon. Regardless of the material, the drifter is a superb sail if you want to sail off a lee shore without using the genoa.

Generally stronger than other regular sails, stormsails are designed to handle winds of over 45 knots and are great when sailing in stormy conditions. They include a storm jib and a trysail.

If you sail long and far enough, chances are you have or will soon be caught in stormy conditions. Under such conditions, storm jibs can be your insurance and you'll be better off if you have a storm jib that has the following features:

• Robustly constructed using heavyweight sailcloth
• Sized suitably for the boat
• Highly visible even in grey and white seas

That's not all; you should never go out there without a storm jib as this, together with the trysail, is the only sails that will be capable of weathering some of nature's most testing situations.

Storm jibs typically have high clews to give you the flexibility of sheet location. You can raise the sail with a spare halyard until its lead position is closed-hauled in the right position. In essence, storm jib is your insurance policy when out there sailing: you should always have it but always hope that you never have to use it.

Also known as a spencer, a trysail is a small, bright orange, veritably bullet-proof, and triangular sail that's designed to save the boat's mainsail from winds over 45 knots and works in the same way as a storm jib. It is designed to enable you to make progress to windward even in strong and stormy winds.

Trysails generally use the same mast track as the mainsail but you have to introduce the slides into the gate from the head of the trysail.

There are two main types of rigs: the fore-and-aft rig and the square rigg.

Fore-and-aft Rig

This is a sailing rig that chiefly has the sails set along the lines of the keel and not perpendicular to it. It can be divided into three categories: Bermuda rig, Gaff rig, and Lateen rig.

Bermuda Rig - Also known as a Marconi rig, this is the typical configuration of most modern sailboats. It has been used since the 17th century and remains one of the most efficient types of rigs. The rig revolves around setting a triangular sail aft of the mast with the head raised to the top of the mast. The luff should run down the mast and be attached to the entire length.

Gaff Rig - This is the most popular fore-and-aft rig on vessels such as the schooner and barquentine. It revolves around having the sail four-cornered and controlled at its peak. In other words, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff.

Lateen Rig - This is a triangular fore-and-aft rig whereby a triangular sail is configured on a long yard that's mounted at a given angle of the mast while running in a fore-and-aft direction. Lateen rig is commonly used in the Indian Ocean and the Mediterranean.

Square Rigged

This is a rig whereby the mainsails are arranged in a horizontal spar so that they're square or vertical to the mast and the keel of the boat. The square rig is highly efficient when sailing downwind and was once very popular with ocean-going sailboats.

Unquestionably, sailing is always pleasurable. Imagine turning off the engine of your boat, hoisting the sails, and filling them with air! This is, without a doubt, a priceless moment that will make your boat keel and jump forward!

But being propelled by the noiseless motion of the wind and against the mighty currents and pounding waves of the seas require that you know various sail types and how to use them not just in propelling your boat but also in ensuring that you enjoy sailing and stay safe. Sails are a gorgeous way of getting forward. They remain the main fascination of sailboats and sea cruising. If anything, sails and boats are inseparable and are your true friends when out there on the water. As such, getting to know different types of sails and how to use them properly is of great importance.

All in all, let's wish you calm seas, fine winds, and a sturdy mast!

Related Articles

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

by this author

Learn About Sailboats

Sailboat Parts

Most Recent

What Does "Sailing By The Lee" Mean?

October 3, 2023

The Best Sailing Schools And Programs: Reviews & Ratings

September 26, 2023

Important Legal Info

Lifeofsailing.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. This site also participates in other affiliate programs and is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies.

Similar Posts

Affordable Sailboats You Can Build at Home

September 13, 2023

Best Small Sailboat Ornaments

September 12, 2023

Discover the Magic of Hydrofoil Sailboats

December 11, 2023

Popular Posts

Best Liveaboard Catamaran Sailboats

December 28, 2023

Can a Novice Sail Around the World?

Elizabeth O'Malley

4 Best Electric Outboard Motors

How Long Did It Take The Vikings To Sail To England?

10 Best Sailboat Brands (And Why)

December 20, 2023

7 Best Places To Liveaboard A Sailboat

Get the best sailing content.

Top Rated Posts

Lifeofsailing.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. This site also participates in other affiliate programs and is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies. (866) 342-SAIL

© 2024 Life of Sailing Email: [email protected] Address: 11816 Inwood Rd #3024 Dallas, TX 75244 Disclaimer Privacy Policy

Messing about in boats since 1975.  Online Since 1997.

Home   |  Intro   |  Our Design Process   |  Stock Design Info   |  Motor Yacht Designs   |  Sailing Yacht Designs   |  Prototype Designs Plans List   |  Articles   |  Our CAD Design Stream   |  Maxsurf   |  News..!   |  SITE MAP..!   |  Site Search   | Design Team   |  Contact Us Please see the  AVAILABLE BOAT PLANS web page

Sailing Yacht Designs by Kasten Marine Design, Inc. Copyright 2016 Michael Kasten Updated June 2016   The sailing yacht designs listed below are arranged in order of their size, from the largest at over 164 feet (a traditional plank on frame wooden ketch) to the smallest at 8 feet (an aluminum sailing pram). New boat designs are added as they are developed (marked with the symbol) so you may want to bookmark this page and check in periodically... Please also have a look at our Prototypes page to see a number of new designs that are currently being developed or imagined.   Ordering Study Drawings; Estimating Plans; Building Plans The majority of the designs listed below are available as Stock Designs, or are offered at a substantial discount versus the cost of developing a new Custom Design.  For each design listed below, there is a link to a web page describing the design in detail.  If more information is desired in order to start planning for construction, an Estimating Plans Set is available which includes a Structural Profile and Arrangement plus a complete Vessel Specification and a comprehensive Equipment List, all of which are essential aids for planning. The intent of the Estimating Plans Set is to provide enough information for any builder to give a firm estimate for construction of the vessel. Building Plans contain all the information actually needed to complete construction of the vessel. If you would like to order Study Drawings, Estimating Plans, or a complete set of Building Plans for any of these designs, please see the Plans List Page for additional detail, a summary of plans prices, and complete ordering information. See our Stock Design Page for a thorough description of what is included in a typical plans package. If you want to know what's involved in creating a Custom Design to suit your specific requirements, you'll find excellent detail on our Custom Design Page .    Large Sailing Yachts As yachts, these larger vessels provide the height of luxury on the water, with ample space for an extended family or for chartering.  These yachts are second to none... The 38m Pinisi AMANDIRA pictured above has been featured in many yachting magazines as well as Architectural Digest.  Our 36m Pinisi Silolona has has won accolades in SE Asia Yachting as the best newly built sailing yacht in Asia in 2004, the year of her launch; and has achieved cameo appearances in Vogue magazine, the New York Times; La Figueroa, Time magazine, plus many yachting magazines.  

50m Indonesian Sailing Pinisi - The 36m Silolona was the inspiration for this much larger Charter Pinisi.. At 50m (164 feet) there is ample room for luxury chartering throughout Indonesia with occasional forays to Malaysia, Thailand, the Andaman Islands and the Maldives. Designed to the structural standards of Germanischer Lloyds, this vessel will offer superior security, luxury and comfort. For more information about this design or other traditional wooden vessels, please inquire .

38m Sailing Pinisi, AMANDIRA  - A 38 meter (125 foot) luxury wooden sailing yacht for occasional chartering, having deluxe accommodations for the owner, private staterooms for 8 additional guests, plus accommodation for 14 crew including dive master and guide. Designed to the standards of Germanischer Lloyd's for maximum safety and longevity. To be built in Kalimantan Timur (East Borneo). For more information about this design or other traditional wooden vessels, please inquire . Please also see our Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

36m KLM, DUNIA BARU - A 36 meter (120 foot) luxury wooden yacht. This design is inspired by the present-day traditional Indonesian KLM types (motor sailors). The result is a luxury private yacht for occasional chartering, having deluxe accommodations for the owners, private staterooms for 10 guests, plus accommodation for 12 crew. Designed to the standards of Germanischer Lloyd's for maximum safety and longevity, and built in Kalimantan Timur (East Borneo). For more information about this design or other traditional wooden vessels, please inquire . Please also see our Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

36m Pinisi, SILOLONA - Pictured above, the traditionally built Silolona , a wooden Indonesian Pinisi , measuring 36 meters (118 feet) on deck, was built in Kalimantan Selatan (South Borneo) for chartering throughout Indonesia. The intent of this design has been to provide a taste of traveling aboard a traditional sailing Bugis Pinisi, complete with Indonesian crew. Designed and built to the structural standards of the German Lloyd's rule, there is a generous measure of security, luxury and comfort for eight to sixteen charter guests (depending on which interior layout is preferred). For more information about this design or other traditional wooden vessels, please inquire . Please also see our Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

36m Tern Schooner - A 36 meter (118') deluxe wooden sailing yacht. The interior is very open, yet will accommodate two owners, eight guests or family members, and four crew. This design has been inspired by the fast Privateer sailing vessels of yore. As such, the Tern Schooner is designed to perform well under sail. Twin engines provide top performance under power. Structure is according to Germanischer Lloyds throughout. For more information about this design or other traditional wooden vessels, please inquire . Please also see our Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

33m Indonesian KLM -  A 33m (108 foot) charter yacht in wood, sister to the 36m KLM listed above and the 30m KLM listed below. A luxury private yacht that can also be used for charters. Designed to the German Lloyd's rule for wooden ships for maximum structural integrity and long life. For more information about this design or other traditional wooden vessels, please inquire . Please also see our Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

30m Pinisi, SI DATU BUA - Our original 36m Pinisi design has been an inspiration for a series of design studies, each of which share the same traditional aesthetic of the wooden Indonesian Sailing Pinisi. This smaller 30m (98 foot) version is intended for private use and occasional chartering throughout Indonesia. Designed to the structural standards of the Germanischer Lloyds, this vessel will offer superior security, luxury and comfort. For more information about this design or other traditional wooden vessels, please inquire . Please also see our Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

30m Indonesian KLM - This 30 meter (98 foot) luxury wooden yacht is modeled after the present-day traditional Indonesian Kapal Layar Mesin . Literally translated, this means "boat-sail-machine." Although we would call this a "Motor Sailor" these craft are simply referred to in Indonesia as " KLM ." The concept here has been to create a private yacht that can also be chartered, and which has deluxe accommodations for the owner and guests, plus generous cabins for crew. For more information about this design or our other traditional wooden vessels, please inquire . Please also see our Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

Zebulun 96 - Zebulun is a modern sailing yacht in all respects. Intended for fast all-ocean sailing. All aluminum construction; twin fin keels with ballast bulbs; twin rudders; three masts; fully battened sails; etc. The ultimate charter vessel, having nine private staterooms, for a capacity of 18 to 20 all together. Equally capable as a motor sailor or pure sailing vessel. Very impressive!  Please see the Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

Mermaid 61  - A classic Brigantine styled after the 1700's privateers. Planned for commercial use, there is a flexible-use space just forward of amidships that can be used as a 5 ton cargo hold, or a large workshop, as a twin cabin for charters, or as a general use cabin or dining hall for day charters or boutique cuisine evening cruises. Mermaid combines modern materials and a modern hull form with a traditional Brigantine styling that is true to its heritage even down to the carvings. For example, all aluminum or all steel hull construction with all aluminum spars and modern rigging materials. Please see our Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices. For more information, please inquire .

Shiraz 56 - A a fast aluminum sailing yacht with classic styling in the Herreshoff tradition. Fully detailed for construction in aluminum complete with NC cutting files. Conceived as a motor sailor , with the emphasis on sailing performance. Two separate staterooms, large saloon and galley, even a bath tub! From the shelter of the 'midship cockpit one can watch other vessels fall astern as though they were tied to a coral head... Aluminum spars; ketch rig. If re-designed, wood or fiberglass are also possible (with substantial revisions to the plans). Please see the Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

Lucille 50 - This vessel is in my view a proper motor sailor ! Lucille has a true pilot house, a real walk-in engine room, and private cabins for four. There are two versions, one having the wheel house aft, the other with the house amidships. Lucille has a rounded hull and very clean lines suited to steel or aluminum. If re-designed, wood or fiberglass are also possible (with substantial revisions to the plans). Aluminum spars, schooner rig. Please see the Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

Many more sailing yacht concept designs can be found on our Prototypes web page.    

Mid-Size Sailing Yachts

Jasmine 48  - An all aluminum junk rigged schooner - and a highly capable motor sailor as well! The request here was to design a blue water schooner with an easy to handle rig, a spacious interior and classic styling, then apply modern technology to all of that...! In this case all aluminum structure, free standing rig, electric motor propulsion, and a very comfortable interior. A rounded hull for construction in aluminum. Recently updated to include the concept of having a pilot house aft. If re-designed, wood or fiberglass are also possible (with substantial revisions to the plans). Please see the Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

Redpath 44 - I designed Redpath for myself. Enough said. In my view she is simply beautiful. The idea was to create a simple and comfortable live aboard schooner for two. When left to my own devices, herein lies much of my preferred design approach. Though designed as an auxiliary sail boat, Redpath is also a true motor sailor . Aluminum spars, schooner rig. Hull construction in steel. If re-designed, wood or fiberglass are also possible (with substantial revisions to the plans). Please see the Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

Redpath 44 - Okay, why is Redpath listed twice here...? We recently completed a conversion of the Redpath design to aluminum construction, including aluminum spars. We also completed new NC cutting files for aluminum construction (imperial dimensions). If re-designed, wood or fiberglass are also possible (with substantial revisions to the plans). Please see the Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

Highland Lass 42 - Grace's big sister. A classic rig on the finest of single chine hull forms intended for steel or aluminum construction. Designed for performance cruising. Comfort for four. Luxury for two. Aluminum spars, schooner rig. If re-designed, wood or fiberglass are also possible (with substantial revisions to the plans). Please see the Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

Benrogin 40 - A transom-stern rounded hull and clean lines ideally suited to steel, aluminum, fiberglass or plank on frame wood construction. Intended for family cruising. Two versions: one with a wooden deck for luxury, the other having a metal deck for simplicity and ultimate strength. If re-designed, wood or fiberglass are also possible (with substantial revisions to the plans). Please see the Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

Greybeard 38 - A variation on Fantom. More displacement with a different interior and a slightly different look. Every bit the boat to live up to her name. With a rounded hull and easy lines Greybeard is ideally suited to steel or aluminum. If re-designed, wood or fiberglass are also possible (with substantial revisions to the plans). Aluminum spars, cutter rig. Please see the Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

Fantom 36 - A round bottom double ended cutter in the Archer tradition. With a rounded hull and easy lines Fantom is ideally suited to steel or aluminum. This boat was designed for ultimate conditions with the intent to make the Northwest Passage. Aluminum spars, cutter rig. If re-designed, wood or fiberglass are also possible (with substantial revisions to the plans). Please see the Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

Grace 36 - Can a metal boat have grace? Absolutely yes! One of the prettiest metal boats afloat, and a very easy shape to build. Designed for ocean voyaging in style. Aluminum spars, ketch rig. Hull construction in steel or aluminum. If re-designed, wood or fiberglass are also possible (with substantial revisions to the plans). Please see the Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

Many more sailing yacht concept designs can be found on our Prototypes web page.  

Pocket Size Sailing Yachts

Bedouin 28 - An excellent bilge keel yacht, the big sister to Sarah Cat. Trailerable and ocean worthy. Aluminum spars, cutter rig. Hull construction in aluminum. If re-designed, wood or fiberglass are also possible (with substantial revisions to the plans). Preliminary drawing available; please inquire .

Sarah Cat 23 - A centerboard boat with a classic fantail stern. Tabernacle mast for easy trailering. The most economical of cruising boats. Aluminum spars, cutter rig. Hull construction in aluminum. If re-designed, wood or fiberglass are also possible (with substantial revisions to the plans). Please see the Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.

Larger and smaller preliminary designs in this size range can be found on our Prototypes web page.   

Yacht Tenders

The Pram - The pram hull form has the most carrying ability within the least length. Being flat bottom, these sailing prams take the beach gracefully, and they are easily stowed. Sizes range from 8' to 14' with construction in aluminum, plywood or fiberglass. Please see the Plans List Page for a summary of Plan prices.  

Please see the  AVAILABLE BOAT PLANS web page. Home   |  Intro   |  Our Design Process   |  Stock Design Info   |  Motor Yacht Designs   |  Sailing Yacht Designs   |  Prototype Designs Plans List   |  Articles   |  Our CAD Design Stream   |  Maxsurf   |  News..!   |  SITE MAP..!   |  Site Search   | Design Team   |  Contact Us

• All Web Site Graphics, Layout, and Written Content at this Domain Created by Michael Kasten.
• All Graphic and Written Materials at this Domain Copyright © 1989 - 2023 Michael Kasten.
• All Content Registered with US Library of Congress and US Copyright Office.
• Copyright Violations will be Prosecuted. All Rights Reserved.

Sailboats embody the mystery of the sea, of going only where the wind is willing to take you. We offer a variety of sailboat sizes, using several construction techniques. We offer sails, hardware and rigging for many of our sailboat designs. This enables you to focus on building your boat, not searching around for all the bits and pieces needed to complete the project.

Free online book: 

• Rigging Small Sailboats
• Sailboat Hardware Notes

Glen-L 25 - Plywood

 

The designs where there is a YELLOW BACKGROUND are the designs for which CUTTING FILES are available.              Several versions.         Several versions in one set of BOAT PLANS. or     or              or - WOOD EPOXY             or     NEW TOTALLY REVISED      ALUMINUM     Fast cruising         -  BOAT PLANS & CUTTING FILES if you are interested in this design. or     or         or   or or   STEEL OR ALUMINUM        or Several versions. or               RETURN TO  HOME PAGE Your shopping cart is empty! Sailboat Plans 30-40ft Bruce Roberts sailboat designs Boat plans 30 - 40 ft  . This section of Bruce Roberts sailboat designs and boat plans cover the following vessels in the range of 30 to 40 foot. The Roberts, Classic, Henry Morgan, Offshore, Power Cat, PCF 36/40, and Canoe Stern designs. Boat building plans using steel, aluminium, fiberglass wood/epoxy, dependant on the design, are available. Information and prices are on each individual design page. Study Plan Packages contain all the sheets #1 from the actual plans. Sail Plans and the various accommodation layouts pertaining to the design are shown on these sheets. There may be anywhere from two to eight #1 sheets which are all to scale and which measure between one meter and two and a half meters long each. They are intended as a more in-depth overview of the design in which you are interested. Material Lists for the basic materials required to build the hull, deck and superstructure are included in the study plan package to help you with your budgeting. Where Fibreglass is mentioned as a material this means Balsa sandwich / Foam sandwich, Single skin or C-Flex. Most steel plans can be adapted to aluminium construction. Both moulded ply and strip plank can be used in conjunction with the wood epoxy saturation method. Sail and rig details are also shown on the study plan sets. As the Study Plan Packages include the basic measurements in scale for the accommodation layouts, you can customize the layouts to suit your needs if what is presented is not exactly to your liking. The link to download the Study Plan Packages is emailed to your email address and generally within 24 hours, The link to the Full Plan Sets is also generally emailed within 24. All study plans and full plan sets are downloadable in .pdf format for you to have printed at a nearby print shop. The study and full plan sets are available on CD's on request with postage cost depends on country. To View drawings , photos, information and prices of the design that interests you just click on that design. Payments:  We only accept payments through PayPal. This method of payment protects both of us. Please be aware that there is no obligation or need to be a member of PayPal to use them to pay us using the normal various methods of payment. Pram Dinghy Boat Plan Roberts Pram Dinghy This Pram dinghy can be built in fiberglass or plywood. The pictures sho.. Classic 31 Boat Plan Roberts Classic 31 This is an earlier design that some traditionalists may find appealing. It may.. Roberts 310 Boat Plan Roberts 310 This design may be built with either a regular trunk cabin or a pilot house. It is al.. Henry Morgan 32 Boat Plan Roberts Henry Morgan 32 This is an earlier design that traditionalists may find appealing. It is .. Roberts 34 Boat Plan Roberts 34 This is an earlier design that still enjoys a great amount of popularity. It has been .. Canoe Stern 341 Boat Plan Roberts Canoe Stern 341 Designed by Graham Shannon this is for those of you that are looking for .. Roberts 345 Boat Plan Roberts 345 Originally this was designed for lightweight frameless multi-chine steel construction.. Roberts 35 Boat Plan Roberts 35 This is a classic modern design that has been built as a production boat in many parts.. PCF 36-40 (Pacific Coast Fisherman) Boat Plan Roberts PCF 36-40 (Pacific Coast Fisherman) This design may be built as a motor sailer for family.. Roberts 36 Boat Plan Roberts 36 This design is a well proven world cruiser as many are currently sailing in different .. Roberts 370 Boat Plan Roberts 370 Such has been the response to this design that plans for it's construction are availa.. Offshore 38 Boat Plan Roberts Offshore 38 Full plans for this design are available for building in round bilge Fibergla.. Power Catamaran 39 Boat Plan Roberts Power Catamaran 39 These catamarans were designed to be built using the fibreglass panel .. Roberts 39 Boat Plan Roberts 39 This design is available only in multi-chine hull form, sloop or, with the addition of.. Roberts 392 Boat Plan Roberts 392 This design is a companion to the Roberts 39 which until now had only been available .. Roberts 40 Boat Plan Roberts 40 This design comes with either a centre cockpit or a pilot house layout. There is adequ..  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]  ]   plans (nearly 450 at present) and building manuals, CD’s and DVD’s. The range of designs includes :-       covering plywood, strip plank and clinker ply construction as well as sail making. Click here for details of the Terms & Conditions, Use of our Plans, Back-up, SFDesign Philosophy etc When you go to order a plan you will have a choice of two Buy Now Buttons - one for the Printed Plans (to be sent by post) and the other for the electronic PDF version of the plan, which will be sent to your email address.  Generally, the prices of the PDF versions for boats above dinghy size (where there is usually more than 4 sheets of A1 print), are lower than the printed versions, as no printing is involved. Once payment for your order has cleared, sending the PDF files attached to an email is almost immediate with no waiting for the post and with guaranteed delivery to any country.     (also a 28' version) dayboat details. Launch added to the Classic Motor Cruisers page. and photos of the first launched. . plans. .   by Paul Fisher have been put up in a new section on the Sailer, Steam/Electric Launch, Steam Launch and the added. clinker motor launch added to the Motor Cruisers 21' to 30' page. almost complete added. added. design with more beam and hull depth, plus a new design, a added, one of which is built in two halves. and motor yachts and a photo of the finished . open strip planked motor cruiser. added. plans and a set of drawings and sketches has been added as an option to the 16' Curlew Motor Punt to make it into the . and the . . canoe plans. ; ; ; and models. . After a youth messing around in all sorts of boats on the Thames, I gained my degree - a BSc (Bachelor of Science) in Naval Architecture and Shipbuilding from Newcastle University in 1974. Straight after University l worked in the design office of McGruer & Co. Scotland for 4 years - famous for high performance racing /cruising yachts beautifully crafted in wood (cold moulded as well as conventional clinker and carvel). l then became Technical Manager at D.M. Russell Marine - formerly Jas. A. Silvers yard just up the road at Rosneath, for 5 years - famous for their motor yachts - this period found me sailing/cruising in all sorts of craft around the coast of the UK and regular racing in everything from Dragons to the IOR fleet on the Clyde. Plans & Kits Kits and Packages Meet the Scout, a great sailing dinghy -- and rewarding project for a first-time boatbuilder. The Scout is a wide, stable, 10-foot boat that's a blast to sail and row. Weighs only  ~70 pounds and makes a great tender, yet has enough dry stowage below deck to take on a beach camping trip of its own. The offset daggerboard makes an open footwell so you can even sleep aboard. The Scout is available as a CNC plywood-and-foam kit exclusively here at Duckworks. You can also grab the epoxy/fiberglass kit , sail & rigging , and any hardware that you need right here as well. Or if you prefer, check out the  COMPLETE SCOUT PACKAGE  with EVERYTHING you need for your build!  Check out the YouTube video below for a demo of the Scout on the water, and an interview with a home builder who brought this kit boat to life! Ready to build your own? Shop Scout kits below!  Qty in Cart 2 Piece Carbon Mast for Scout 10 Scout 10 Complete Package Scout 10 Sail Scout 10 Deck Hardware and Hatches Package Scout 10 Daggerboard and Rudder Package Scout 10 Sailing Package Scout 10 Epoxy and Fiberglass Package Scout 10 CNC Kit Total: items / Add all to cart Adding your products to cart AROUND THE SAILING WORLD BOAT OF THE YEAR Email Newsletters America’s Cup St. Petersburg Caribbean Championship Boating Safety Ultimate Boat Giveaway Sporty and Simple is the ClubSwan 28 By James Boyd August 20, 2024 With its long history producing good-looking fast cruisers, in recent years, Nautor Swan has consolidated its performance yachts into its ClubSwan range, spanning the giant 125-foot Skorpios and the 80-footer My Son g to their fleets of ClubSwan 36s and 50s. All designs by Juan Kouyoumdjian, the latter saw 11 and 15 compete in their respective five-event annual championships (Nations Cup) in 2023 and are set to be joined by the ClubSwan 43 this year. But Nautor Swan has another new development: While its smallest boats have been the ClubSwan 36 (plus the original Swan 36 back in 1967), its latest launch is its smallest ever, the ClubSwan 28. This new model is not surprising given that Swan is sailing’s most prolific premium brand, with more large performance sailing yachts in existence than any other manufacturer. Its range firmly extends into the superyacht stratosphere, so why not lure new owners into the fold, earlier, with a modest offering? Federico Michetti, head of sports activities and product manager at Nautor Swan, explains, “The concept of the 28 is to have an entry-level Swan that allows owners to enjoy the journey with Nautor and our events.” He expects that the 28 will entice younger sailors, even those new to sailing, into the ClubSwan realm. Among race boats today, 28 to 30 feet is the cusp between sportboat and yacht, and the ClubSwan 28 is more the former, given its light weight (displacing sub-1,200 kg versus 1,600 kg and 1,800 for the more yachtlike Farr 280 and Cape 31, respectively); outboard engine rather than inboard; and low freeboard and minimal interior, accessed via the foredeck hatch. The ClubSwan 28 is neither an excessively high-end carbon race boat nor a high-­volume J/70, but rather somewhere between. “Our aim for it is to race well in 6 knots or 20. It is a powerful boat but not extreme,” Michetti says.  Kouyoumdjian adds: “We incorporated everything that modern boats have to perform very well but didn’t go extreme on any of them.” Fundamental to the boat’s ethos is simplicity, and for it to be fun to sail, but as Michetti puts it, “at the same time being safe, a boat that can fit the needs of everyone from ­beginner to expert.” Aside from its performance, the best demonstration of this is that while most sportboat crews must hike and hike hard (it being so vital to stability on boats of this size), the 28 is a “legs-in” boat. “We would like to avoid a ­hiking contest. It is much more social too; sailors can enjoy what is happening around them,” Michetti says. Everything is optimized for this—the sheerline and cockpit arrangement to make maximum use of the weight of the inward-facing crew, while keel draft and ballast make up righting moment lost due to no hiking and crew not moving fore and aft. Compared with the ClubSwan 36’s advanced hull shape and fixed-keel/C-foil combination, the 28 is far more conservative. The hull has a low wetted surface area and rocker aft to minimize bow burying. Its modest 8-foot beam means it can be towed legally throughout Europe without having to be inclined. It also allows the boat and trailer combined to fit into a 40HQ container for shipping farther afield. The hull shape is quite ­complex, with flared topsides at the stern, above a substantial chine. Going forward, the topsides turn vertical and then evolve into a deck chamfer ­forward of the mast. The bow has a slight reverse sheer and a retractable sprit. The rig breaks new ground, but again, simplicity is the focus. Developed between Kouyoumdjian, Southern Spars’ Steve Wilson and mast-builder Axxon Composites, it is skifflike, with no backstay or runners, and with swept-back spreaders and a GNAV (inverted vang) to keep the cockpit clear. “Imagine a 49er rig that is set up by the headstay,” Kouyoumdjian says. “The prebend and the tension you have in that kind of rig usually comes from presetting the headstay and then you deal with it with the vang and cunningham. But we wanted something variable that could simulate what you could otherwise do with the runners.” The solution is to have a ­permanently attached mast ­ram that can be operated while ­racing via a pump in the pit area. “It brings a lot of things together—not only the tension on the headstay, but also the tension on the rig,” Kouyoumdjian adds. “And when you tension the rig, you bend the mast.” Therefore, powering up the rig comes with just two or three pumps and an inch of movement of the ram. “Everything on the rig is simple and has been done before many times successfully,” Kouyoumdjian says. “We added the mast up-and-down function. I imagine crews using it on medium-light days: When you get into a luff and you’d ease the runner, instead you’d drop the mast, or anticipating a puff, you’d pump it up. As soon as the wind gets to 10 to 12 knots, then you’d be maxed up, like you would be at ­maximum runner on a typical boat.” The ClubSwan 28 will be a strict one-design class. Like the ClubSwan 36, it is being built in Cartagena, Spain, by Sinergia Racing Group. Tooling for the 28 is CNC milled to fine tolerances, and like most other boats in this size, it is a glass boat, built with vinylester resin, although naturally its mast, bowsprit and rudder are full carbon. The keel fin is stainless steel. What appears to be a 1990s retro feature is the 28’s L-configuration keel, as featured on many vintage 1990 one-­designs and early VO60s. Aside from positioning bulb weight aft, this lengthens the keel’s leading edge by 15 to 20 percent, increasing its efficiency and improving, for example, lift to windward. Kouyoumdjian is enthusiastic about this and says that he would readily recommend L-keels on other race boats, but warns that the shape of the bulb’s front must be correct. To enable easy trailering, the keel can be raised, and the rudder assembly lifts out within its own box. A full derig, from water to motorway, is expected to take around three hours. Production for the ClubSwan 28 will be modest, initially at least, with the yard in Cartagena expected to roll out two per month, with the ready-to-sail price forecast to be around 200,000 euros. The aim is to have international fleets, with boats built by local yards. After Europe, Michetti says, its focus will be the United States, although as yet there is no time frame for this. At the time of this writing, six 28s had been sold, with the first boat due for launch in late May, with all six expected to compete at the Rolex Swan Cup in Porto Cervo in September. The advantage of the 28 is that the owner is buying into the ClubSwan world, with its established circuit, Michetti says. “If you are building a new class, people need to trust you. You need to create momentum, you need to have sponsors and find locations and organize regattas,” which the ClubSwan management already has, with its comprehensive circuit, mixing established regattas and ClubSwan’s own in the Med, UK, Baltic and US. Aside from enticing new sailors and teams into the ClubSwan family, Michetti also imagines that some teams with larger race boats might acquire a 28 for crew training. There is currently no class crew-weight limit, which risks enticing larger muscle-bound types on board, but Michetti explains: “We want to avoid this crazy ‘saunas before the regatta’ thing” (in other classes, crews typically duck just below maximum weight at weigh-in). ClubSwan 28 crews will ­comprise four or five with a World Sailing Group 1 (amateur) owner-­driver and probably one mandatory female or youth crewmember. For the 28 this year, there are a number of events, including a kick-off event from Nautor Swan’s base in Scarlino, Italy, in July, plus September’s Rolex Swan Cup and the Nations League 2024-ClubSwan 28 Invitational Sardinia Challenge, taking place in Villasimius, Sardinia, in early November. Given its trailerability, the ­likelihood is that the 28 will also race inland, for example, on Italy’s famous Lake Garda. Naturally, as numbers grow, there will also be the opportunity for the ClubSwan 28 to get its own start in the world’s top ­multiclass regattas. More: ClubSwan 28 , One Design , Print Summer 2024 , Sailboats More Sailboats Nautor Swan Has A New Pocket Rocket Pogo Launches its Latest Coastal Rocket A Deeper Dive Into the Storm 18 2024 Boat of the Year Best Recreational Racer: Z24 Hot Summer Scrimmages In Barcelona The Caribbean’s Hot One-Design Fleet Cole Brauer’s Voyage of Influence New Extremes On the Horizon Digital Edition Customer Service Privacy Policy Terms of Use Cruising World Sailing World Salt Water Sportsman Sport Fishing Wakeboarding No products in the cart. Build your own sail boat with Hartley Boat Plans. Hartley sail boats are the benchmark in reliable and sea worthy trailer sailers, in fact the name trailer sailer was coined by these amazing craft. Many of these build plans also have a printed study pack available to help you through your project. Cape Bay 45 Cape Otway 37 Chuckles 18 Dateline 51 Eastcoaster 16 Easthaven 34 Hartley 16ft (5m) Trailer Sailer Hartley 30 (Plywood Version) Hartley 30 (Steel Version) Royal Suva 52 Samson ‘C-Baron’ 55 Samson ‘C-Breeze’ 45 Samson ‘C-Deuce’ 45 Samson ‘C-Fever’ 62 Samson ‘C-Lord’ 53 Samson ‘C-Quence’ 36 Samson ‘C-Witch’ 63 Tahitian 27 Tahitian 33 Tahitian 38 Tahitian 45-50 Westhaven 32 Sailing vessel, MMSI 203226300 VesselFinder Miscellaneous The current position of ULAMARE is at Adriatic Sea reported 4 days ago by AIS. The vessel is sailing at a speed of 0.1 knots. The vessel ULAMARE (MMSI 203226300) is a Sailing vessel and currently sailing under the flag of Austria . Position & Voyage Data Predicted ETA - Distance / Time - Course / Speed   Current draught - Navigation Status - Position received MMSI 203226300 Callsign OEX2611 Flag Austria Length / Beam 12 / 4 m Map position & Weather Recent port calls. ULAMARE current position and history of port calls are received by AIS. Technical specifications, tonnages and management details are derived from VesselFinder database. The data is for informational purposes only and VesselFinder is not responsible for the accuracy and reliability of ULAMARE data. Berthon Winter Collection Latest issue August 2024 In the August 2024 issue of Yachting World magazine: News Few finish a tempestuous Round The Island Race European rules are eased for cruising to France and Greece Olympic sailing… Yachting World Digital Edition Who will win the 37th America’s Cup? Helen Fretter August 21, 2024 On the cusp of the 37th America’s Cup, we take a look at all six contenders. Could this be the closest America's Cup competition yet? We admit it, we’re excited. The 37th America’s Cup has all the signs of being a good one. At six teams in total, it may not match the entry numbers of the last Challengers series in Spain (the 2007 Louis Vuitton Cup in Valencia, when 12 teams duked it out for a chance to race Alinghi), but the intriguing thing about this Cup is that there are no real ‘wildcard’ entries. Even the newest or latest entries have the potential to deliver a strong showing in the Louis Vuitton Cup. For this second edition held in the AC75 class there have also been some rule changes. From a spectator perspective the primary change is likely to be that the boats are designed to get foiling, and stay foiling, in much lighter winds, avoiding the painful ‘low-riding’ mode which dogged some teams last time around. That’s not to say it will all be easy: the light winds and confused wave patterns that often dominate waters off Barcelona in early autumn could prove challenging for competitors and organisers alike. Another big shift is the introduction of the AC40 . These nippy mini-Cup boats have been multipurpose – used as test platforms for innovation, as race boats for the new Youth America’s Cup and Women’s America’s Cup events, and training boats. One thing we’ve gleaned from watching the AC40 two-boat training is that the current Cup teams are preparing for battle, match racing style. With the new AC75s expected to be closely matched in speed, there’s every indication that this America’s Cup could see a return to dial-ups, slam-dunk tacks and nail-bitingly close crosses – all at 50 knot boat speeds. Let the Challenge begin… ETNZ’s Taihoro has a plumb bow and sharp skeg with a flared forward section, then a full length bustle with rudder hung from it. However the real magic may lie beneath, in the control systems below deck. Photo: James Somerset/Emirates Team New Zealand Emirates Team New Zealand The Defenders are certainly going to be hard to beat. Not only did they hold all the cards when it came to creating the Protocol and choosing the venue for AC37, but they also only need to build a boat which can win the Match, rather than also needing to be fastest in the earlier Louis Vuitton Series. Grant Dalton is known for driving a team with a laser-sharp focus, and ETNZ held a successful home defence during the strange Covid bubble Cup of 2021. But this time they are hosting an event on the opposite side of the world, with multiple Preliminary regattas, and a Women’s and Youth event, and all the compilations and distractions that brings. Emirates Team New Zealand’s America’s Cup boat ETNZ’s Taihoro looks like a refined 2nd generation AC75 and a progression of their previous winning design. While not outwardly radical, the most progressive ideas are likely to be concealed in key areas like control systems, with the team showcasing a mainsheet design that appears to save structural weight and offer energy efficiency. Though the team initially lost sailing time shipping their new boat to Spain, Taihoro will be developed right through the Challenger series. Peter Burling. Photo: Emirates Team New Zealand Emirates Team New Zealand’s team Skipper Pete Burling shares helming duties this time around with foiling super-talent Nathan Outteridge (the Australian has lived in New Zealand since 2018). Blair Tuke, Andy Maloney and Josh Junior are among the ETNZ crew who, like Burling, return to bid for a hat-trick third Cup win. INEOS Britannia has a substantial bustle or skeg that ends before a transom hung rudder. The complex hull shapes suggest the influence of F1 aerodynamics expertise. Photo: Job Vermeulen/America’s Cup INEOS Britannia Every British Challenge comes with a monumental weight of expectation – in 173 years Britain is yet to win the Cup. On paper, this could be the strongest and most consistent yet. However, there have been big changes – both in personnel and the partnership with Mercedes-AMG Petronas. Of all the F1 collaborations in this Cup cycle, the British seem to have gone the furthest and the team has said enough to suggest that it was, at times, a somewhat challenging process. A complex LEQ12 boat also proved testing in every sense: capsizing, nearly catching fire, and with structure failures. However, the Brits will be hoping they can trust the process, and that F1’s data-driven approach and relentless striving for reliability will pay off by the Challenger series. It will be a truly epic sporting moment if they can get to face the Defender. INEOS Britannia’s America’s Cup boat INEOS Britannia is a complex beast, with geometry that shows the influence of the detailed aerodynamic tools used in the F1 car designs. Britannia has a powerful looking ‘bustle’ or skeg, which ends before a transom-hung rudder – there’s been plenty of speculation about exactly why, but all the teams have moved the centre of gravity forward, shifting the crew weight closer to the mast base in an effort to improve righting moment. Ben Ainslie. Photo: INEOS Britannia INEOS Britannia’s team Ben Ainslie and Giles Scott will helm (Scott has been sharpening his foiling race skills on the GBR F50 in SailGP ). Britain’s strength in cycling and rowing has also given the squad new talent to bolster the power crew, joining more experienced campaigners like Ben Cornish and Neil Hunter. The new Patriot has a markedly low volume hull, with recumbent cyclors facing aft. Photo: Job Vermeulen/America’s Cup NYYC American Magic American Magic were looking like one of the strongest contenders in the last Cup cycle, before Patriot ’s infamous crash during the Prada Cup ruled them out of being competitive. The team dug deep to try to rebuild and return – and won many fans for their determination against the odds – but there’s no question the America’s Cup is unfinished business for backers Doug Devos and Hap Fauth, and Terry Hutchinson (who moves to an off the water skipper/president role). They are clearly in it for the long-haul – a new high performance sailing base is being built in Pensacola, Florida, though whether that’s planned as a base from which to launch their next challenge, or to host the America’s Cup remains to be determined… American Magic’s America’s Cup Boat The new Patriot is different from many of the other AC75s this time. Recumbent cyclors face aft – though it’s accepted a recumbent position will generate less power than a ‘sit up’ bike. Helm and flight controller pods are next to each other, rather than inline, which moves weight forward – but likely with an aerodynamic hit. So can Patriot ’s markedly lower volume design, with increased mainsail area swept down to a low profile deck and a lowered centre of effort, outperform those compromises? Many think it can. Tom Slingsby (left) and Paul Gooodison (right). Photo: American Magic American Magic’s Team Australian Tom Slingsby ’s helming talents were sorely missed in the last Cup, but thanks to a US passport he’s on one wheel of Patriot. Brit Paul Goodison takes the other, moving from mainsheet trim. It’s a formidable partnership, which got off to a winning start at the first Preliminary Regatta. The Italian boat has sleek lines and a lower volume hull with a slim line wave-piercing ‘bustle’, and crew in a deep pod for low windage. Photo: Job Vermeulen/America’s Cup Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli These days it’s hard to imagine the America’s Cup without Patrizio Bertelli and a silver and red Prada-liveried Italian entry. This is their sixth Challenge since 2000, the third skippered by Max Sirena. The Italians have a remarkable record, having been a finalist in the Challengers series four times, twice winning, beaten in two Cup matches and two Challenger finals by Team New Zealand. But they’ve never gone one better – is this their year? The Italians have had an apparently smooth build-up to the 37th Cup, training off Cagliari year-round in a wide range of conditions in the AC40 and LEQ12, before launching their AC75 there. The team also picked up a confidence-boosting 2nd place in the Jeddah Preliminary Regatta, behind – of course – Emirates Team New Zealand. Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli’s America’s Cup boat The Italian team’s silver bullet is an undeniably stylish machine, with a sleek design characterised by organic flowing shapes rather than the computer generated angles of other teams. The low volume hull has a deep, slim skeg to slice through the Barcelona waves. Helm stations are positioned well forward, and the team has been experimenting with fighter jet-style canopies for their AC75 pilots – while we understand there are cameras under the hood for improved all-round visibility. Jimmy Spithill. Photo: Studio Borlenghi/ACE Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli’s team The Italians were first to introduce split helms in the last Cup and the easy patter between Jimmy Spithill and Francesco Bruni delighted fans. Spithill has stepped out of SailGP in order to focus on the Cup this time, but talented younger drivers Ruggero Tita and Marco Gradoni also made a big impression in the AC40s in Jeddah. The Alinghi Red Bull Racing AC75 was first to launch and has one of the most radical hull shapes. Photo: Olaf Pignataro/Alinghi Red Bull Racing Alinghi Red Bull Racing Inviting jokes about running like Swiss clockwork, Alinghi were first to roll out their AC75 in April, but the team’s return to the Cup arena has been slick from the start. They were first (after the Challenger of Record) to throw their hat into the ring, and first to get sailing in Barcelona (with ETNZ’s former AC75), then spent a winter two-boat training in AC40s in Jeddah – also taking 3rd in the Preliminary Regatta there (ahead of American Magic and INEOS Britannia). Alinghi remains the only European team ever to have won the America’s Cup (in 2003 and 2007), but since their defeat in 2010 Bertarelli has kept his powder dry. The reformed syndicate, partnered with F1 team Red Bull Racing, is not to be underestimated. Alinghi Red Bull Racing’s America’s Cup boat The Botin-designed SUI-100 BoatOne features some radical angles and intriguing curves which suggest the influence of F1 team Red Bull Racing in the hull shape’s aerodynamics – the boat has markedly truncated topsides which end abruptly before the transom, and a scooped foredeck. BoatOne dismasted in June, however Alinghi was quick to re-step a new mast, and the team now has a possible advantage of knowing more about the one-design rig’s limitations than other Challengers… Arnaud Psarofaghi. Photo: Samo Vidic/Alinghi Red Bull Racing Alinghi Red Bull Racing’s team The strict nationality rule means Alinghi needed to find home-grown talent for AC37 but Switzerland has a strong tradition of lake racing in radical high performance designs. The Swiss squad is young, with experience in foiling classes like the GC32 and TF35. Skipper Arnaud Psarofaghis is a double foiling Moth European champion. Older hands behind the scenes have included Brad Butterworth and Dean Barker. The French AC75 is designed by Emirates Team New Zealand, built in France. Teams have the option to further develop areas such as foils, so the two boats may diverge. Photo: Job Vermeulen/America’s Cup Orient Express Racing Team The French Orient Express team was the last to enter the 37th America’s Cup, and the last to launch their AC75. There is plenty of knowledge of both the Cup and how to build a winning campaign in this camp – joint CEOs are K-Challenge founder Stephan Kandler and Dongfeng team boss Bruno Dubois, while Franck Cammas is head of performance. Dubois has been open about the fact that the team is running on a much smaller budget than many of its rivals, but with that comes efficiency of decision making and a sharp focus. Sound familiar? It’s the same backs-against-the-wall ethos the Kiwis are famed for, from another of the greatest sailing nations in the world. Early indications are this team could punch above its weight. Orient Express Racing Team’s America’s Cup boat The French bought a design package from Emirates Team New Zealand so their AC75 inevitably shares many characteristics with the Defender’s. It’s a fair assumption that the French boat won’t be quicker than Taihoro . However, the French team aren’t necessarily trying to beat ETNZ – to line up against them in the Match would be an extraordinary victory in itself. This campaign is about gaining knowledge, and delivering enough returns to build a team with longevity. Quentin Delapierre. Photo: Alexander Champy-McLean Orient Express Racing’s Team The Orient Express crew overlap closely with the French SailGP team (also managed by Dubois), and have picked up 2nd overall at two GP events this season. Though lacking Cup match racing experience, skipper Quentin Delapierre and crew sprung a major surprise when they finished 3rd at the first Preliminary Regatta in Vilanova. If you enjoyed this…. Yachting World is the world’s leading magazine for bluewater cruisers and offshore sailors. Every month we have inspirational adventures and practical features to help you realise your sailing dreams. Build your knowledge with a subscription delivered to your door. See our latest offers and save at least 30% off the cover price. 306 IMAGES These extreme sailing superyacht concepts prove that the sky’s the Sailboat design database Motor Explorer and Expedition Sailing Yacht Design : Owen Clarke Design 42m Sailing Yacht RP42 by Design Unlimited and Reichel/Pugh 40m Sail Understanding Sailboats and Sailing COMMENTS The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures) A jib is used to improve handling and to increase sail area on a sailboat. This helps to increase speed. The jib gives control over the bow (front) of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship. The jib is the headsail (frontsail) on a front-and-aft rig. The Ultimate Guide To Sail Boat Designs: Exploring Sail Shape, Masts 2. Gaff Rig: The Gaff rig is a classic sail shape that exudes elegance and nostalgia. It features a four-sided mainsail with a gaff and a topsail, distinguishing it from other sail designs. The gaff, a horizontal spar, extends diagonally from the mast, providing additional area for the mainsail. 43 of the best bluewater sailboat designs of all time Allures 51.9 price: €766,000. The Ovni 370 is another cunning new aluminum centreboard offering, a true deck saloon cruiser for two. The designers say the biggest challenge was to create a ... Affordable Sailboats You Can Build at Home Sailboats that you can build from home will likely be a small boat under 20 feet. These could be from many different boat suppliers such as B&B Yachts, Brooks Boat Designs, and Chase Small Craft. Boat plans will vary based on your budget and how much time you have on your hands. Based on my previous experience, building your own boat will take ... New Sails Custom Designed for Your Sailboat Perfect Sails Start With a Perfect Design. In order for a sail to fit and perform it needs to be designed properly. While other lofts are contracting sail designs to third-party design services, Precision Sails is building its in-house design team in Victoria BC, Canada, to work directly with sailors to ensure your new sail fits perfectly and performs the way that you want it to. 40 Best Sailboats, Types of Sailboats & Manufacturers 30. Swan 44. A strong, robust cruising boat built for high-seas, blue water adventures, the Swan 44 was designed by Sparkman & Stephens, and the yacht's well-known Finnish manufacturers, Nautor Swan, produced 76 boats in a production run that lasted from 1972-1975. 25 of the best small sailing boat designs Assent 's performance in the 1979 Fastnet Race makes the Contessa 32 a worth entry in the 25 best small sailing boat designs list. Credit: Nic Compton. Designed by David Sadler as a bigger alternative to the popular Contessa 26, the Contessa 32 was built by Jeremy Rogers in Lymington from 1970. The yacht's credentials were established when ... Introduction to Sailboat Design: a Technical Exploration The layout of a sailboat's interior and deck spaces is a blend of functionality and comfort. Designers must consider the ergonomics of living and working aboard the vessel, including cabin layout, galley design, and storage solutions. The deck layout influences crew movements and sail handling. Basics of Sailboat Hull Design History of Sailboat Hull Design. If you compare the shapes of the sailboats of today with the cruising boat designs of the 1960s and 70s, you'll notice that quite a lot has changed in the last 50-plus years. Of course, the old designs are still popular among sailors, but it's not easy to find a boat like that being built today. Sailing design yacht designers and naval architects : Owen Clarke We are one of the world's leading companies of yacht designers and naval architects. OC specialise in custom sailing designs and naval architecture of racing boats and performance cruising, expedition and explorer yachts. Our studio has designed sailboats ranging from a 6.5m Mini Transat to a 76m superyacht, are specialists in the use of high-tech composite materials as well as experienced in ... Cruising sails, custom sail design, sail maker, sailboat canvas As a custom sail maker and designer for over 30 years we build sails for all uses from cruising to racing, Yager Sails and Canvas ... If you would like a quote on a sail design , fill out the form and we will get back to you right away. ... Genoa Sails; Custom Racing Sails; Drifter Sails, Code 0 Sails; Anchor Sails; Sailboat Canvas & Covers ... Types of Sailboats: A Complete Guide The most common kind of sailboat is the sloop, as it's simple to operate and versatile. Other common sailboat types include the schooner, cutter, cat, ketch, schooner, catamaran, and trimaran. Other sailboat variations include pocket cruisers, motorsailers, displacement, and shoal-draft vessels. The information found in this article is sourced ... Practical Sailor Takes a Look at Trends in Modern Boat Design To highlight how these boat design principles play out, Practical Sailor looks at classic sailboats such as the Bill Shaw-designed Pearson 32, Ericson 41, Valiant 40, and Peterson 44, and compares their keel/sail ratios and lead values to more modern sailboat designs such as the Catalina, Hunter, Tartan, and Beneteau. ****. Sail Rigs And Types With good sails, great design, and regular maintenance, sails and rigs are an important part of a sailboat. If you're thinking about going sailing, one of the first things you have to understand is the variety of modern sail plans. Unlike old sailboats, modern sailboats don't need huge, overlapping headsails and multiple masts just to get moving. SAIL's Top 10 Best Boats Nominees 2024 The sporty VPLP-designed Astus 20.5 from Redbeard Sailing is an update on the popular 20.2 design, which has sold over 120 models to date. As the smallest of this year's nominees, the Astus 20.5 has one area in particular where it outshines the giants: transportability. Kasten Marine 36m Tern Schooner - A 36 meter (118') deluxe wooden sailing yacht. The interior is very open, yet will accommodate two owners, eight guests or family members, and four crew. This design has been inspired by the fast Privateer sailing vessels of yore. As such, the Tern Schooner is designed to perform well under sail. Shop Sailboats. Sailboats embody the mystery of the sea, of going only where the wind is willing to take you. We offer a variety of sailboat sizes, using several construction techniques. We offer sails, hardware and rigging for many of our sailboat designs. This enables you to focus on building your boat, not searching around for all the bits and ... Scroll Down for 100 Sailboat Plans & Kits BOAT PLANS & FULL SIZE PATTERNS - Package Includes latest sail boat plans, SAILBOAT building plan updates & revisions, PLUS direct contact with the designer. This design is for those that want a fast cruising sailboat and one that can accommodate the family or a racing crew and is a joy to sail as well as being easy to build in a variety of ... Boat Plans Boat plans. Hartley Boats has the widest range of boat plans for sail boats, power boats, catamarans and trimarans, dinghys and small craft, canoes and kayaks, surfboards and surf skis, vintage power boats, self steering capabilities and trailers. Established in 1938, more than 100,000 boats have now been built by enthusiasts from our plans. Build DIY Roberts sailboats. Designs & boat plans 30-40ft Boat plans 30 - 40 ft. This section of Bruce Roberts sailboat designs and boat plans cover the following vessels in the range of 30 to 40 foot. The Roberts, Classic, Henry Morgan, Offshore, Power Cat, PCF 36/40, and Canoe Stern designs. Boat building plans using steel, aluminium, fiberglass wood/epoxy, dependant on the design, are available. Selway Fisher Home Page Welcome to the Selway Fisher Web Site. On this site you will find details of our full range of boat building plans (nearly 450 at present) and building manuals, CD's and DVD's. Click on any of the pictures below to go directly to the pages for each type of boat - or use the links above. The range of designs includes :-. Plans & Kits Meet the Scout, a great sailing dinghy -- and rewarding project for a first-time boatbuilder. The Scout is a wide, stable, 10-foot boat that's a blast to sail and row. Weighs only ~70 pounds and makes a great tender, yet has enough dry stowage below deck to take on a beach camping trip of its own. The offset daggerboard makes an open footwell ... Australian sailors Richie Allanson and Iain Murray design new 9-metre Life & Luxury; Design 'In a class of its own': a radical new racing yacht sets sail. Two driving forces of Australian sailing have come up with an ingenious new type of craft, with a specially ... Sporty and Simple is the ClubSwan 28 The ClubSwan 28 one-design starts at 200,000 euro. With an adjustable hydraulic mast jack, rig-tension tweaks can be made on the fly. Nautor Communication Wooden Boat Plans Westhaven 32. $ 285.00 - $ 300.00 (USD) Build your own sail boat yatch from 9 feet to 63 feet in length. Fully featured wooden boat plans for home construction in Plywood, Steel and Fibre Glass. A tornado sank a luxury sailing boat off the coast of Sicily. Here's Emergency workers in southern Italy are still hunting for six people missing after a tornado sank a luxury yacht early Monday - prompting an air and naval operation off the coast of Sicily. Sicily Bayesian yacht sinking One man has died and six people are missing after a luxury yacht sank in freak weather conditions off the coast of Sicily. The 56m British-flagged Bayesian was carrying 22 people - 12 passengers ... ULAMARE, Sailing vessel The vessel is sailing at a speed of 0.1 knots. The vessel ULAMARE (MMSI 203226300) is a Sailing vessel and currently sailing under the flag of Austria. Plans & Prices. Track on Map Add Photo Add to fleet. Position & Voyage Data. Destination not available. ETA: - Predicted ETA-Distance / Time-Course / Speed : Current draught ... Who will win the 37th America's Cup? Emirates Team New Zealand's America's Cup boat. ETNZ's Taihoro looks like a refined 2nd generation AC75 and a progression of their previous winning design. While not outwardly radical, the ... AI to help new yachts make green hydrogen using underwater turbines The AI system used the boat's design, weather conditions, and their combined impact on hydrogen generation to plan a route which would cut the time which a vessel with full hydrogen tank would ... catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat trimaran yacht