yachtsman fragrance

Ernest Beaux was born on December 8, 1881, in the village of Suschevo "in Vedernikova's house" in Moscow, near the factory and offices of A. Rallet & Co. where his French father, Edouard Beaux, was employed as chief perfumer and member of Rallet's board of directors.

After finishing his secondary education in 1898, Ernest Beaux joined Rallet as a lab assistant in the soap works. Two years later he took a leave of absence for military service in France.

When Beaux returned to Moscow in 1902, he was assigned to Rallet's perfumery division, working under Rallet's technical director, A. Lemercier. Lemercier, a modern, original thinker, encouraged Beaux to explore new trends in perfumery and perfumery materials as well as new social and cultural trends.

In 1907 Beaux was elevated to the position of technical director and became a member of Rallet's board of directors.

Beaux's first perfume (name unknown) was released in 1907 but his first large success came in 1912 with his Bouquet de Napoleon , an eau de cologne that commemorated the centennial of the battle of Borodino, Napoleon's last but very bloody victory in Russia. The following year (1913) Beaux is said to have produced his Bouquet de Catherine , to celebrate the tercentennial of the Romanov dynasty. Some sources confuse this almost unknown fragrance with Brocard's The Empress's Favorite Bouquet which today is known as Red Moscow . Beaux speaks of the success of Bouquet de Napoleon in a 1946 lecture but makes no mention of the Bouquet de Catherine .

In 1914, with the outbreak of war, Beaux again found himself in the military. Beaux appears to have served in combat but after Russia left the War in 1917 and the fight with Germany ended in 1918, Lieutenant Beaux served as a counter intelligence officer in the multinational force that attempted to support the White Russian army in their effort to overthrow the Bolsheviks and thus restore the monarchy. Beaux, fluent in Russian, was to Arkhangel'sk and served at the prison on Mud'yug Island where Bolsheviks captured by the White Russian and Allied armies were held. While survivors of the camp were left with different impressions of Beaux, there was agreement that he was always elegant in his appearance. For his service between 1914 and 1919, he received medals from Britian, France and Imperial Russia.

In 1918 Beaux received word that he should not return to Moscow. In 1919, with his military service ended, Beaux was reunited with wife, son, friends, relatives and Rallet co-workers in France. Rallet, which had been purchased by Chiris in 1898, had set up operations at La Bocca, near Cannes. Again Beaux has his own perfume laboratory.

At La Bocca, Beaux was something of a celebrity to the younger French perfumers. These companions included Henri Robert , Henri Almeras , and Vincent Roubert . Henri Robert's father, Joseph Robert , was Chiris's technical director.

In his 1946 lecture, Beaux mentions his military service in lands above the arctic circle "where the rivers and lakes release a note of incredibly freshness". He committed this note to memory.

But even before 1914, Beaux had been experimenting with aldehydes, inspired in part by Houbigant's 1912 Quelques Fleurs , in which Houbigant perfumer, Robert Bienaimé , successfully made use of aldehyde C-12 MNA. It is believe that Beaux's Bouquet de Catherine was an effort to make use of these new materials. Although we do not know the exact year of its rebirth, Bouquet de Catherine evolved into Rallet Le No.1 , first marketed by Rallet and later by Coty after Coty acquired Rallet in 1929.

During the years 1919 to 1920, — no doubt working from his Bouquet de Catherine experiments — Beaux developed a number of fragrances, including those that would become Chanel No.5 and Chanel No.22 . In 1920, Beaux and Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel were introduced by Grand Duke Dimitri Pavlovitch. Dimitri had been exiled from Russia before the 1917 Bolshevik revolution for his role in the assassination of Rasputin and now, in France, had become Chanel's lover in an affair that lasted for about a year. Dimitri knew of Rallet and, quite likely, knew Beaux either personally or by reputation from their Moscow days.

In response to her request for a perfume, Beaux — according to his own words — presented her with two series of bottles, the first numbered 1 through 5, and the second, 20 through 24. According to Beaux' report of the meeting, she chose the bottle numbered "5" and, when asked what she would call it, told Beaux that she would call it "Number Five" — which she did.

Between 1920 and 1922, Beaux produced a number of fragrances for Chanel, some no more than experiments. These deliveries were in small quantitites from his own lab at La Bocca. No.5 and No.22 and the ones that are remembered. Beaux lacked the capacity to manufacture these fragrances in larger quantities and Chanel lacked the ability to sell more than a handful of bottles.

In 1922, Beaux's laboratory at La Bocca became a favorite "tourist destination" for diplomats during the Conference of Cannes at which Germany reparations from the First World War were negotiated. Visitors to Beaux's laboratory included British Prime Minister, David Lloyd George, French Premier, Aristide Briand, and Louis Loucheur (who Time magazine later referred to as "the symbol of the reputable French profiteer.") In the same year Beaux agreed to represent his friend Eugene Charabot in Paris.

In 1924, the year Ernest Wertheimer went into a perfume marketing partnership with Coco Chanel, Beaux was hired by Paul and Pierre Wertheimer to be the technical director of both Parfums Chanel and Bourjois , the Wertheimer's existing perfume and cosmetics business which already had achieved international distribution, including outlets in the United States.

During the 1930's, Chanel and Bourjois released a number of fragrances in which Ernest Beaux, no doubt, had a hand. But in a rare 1953 interview, Pierre Wertheimer explained to Time magazine that companies such as Chanel and Bourjois could each only afford to promote a single fragrance, and this fragrance would provide them with the bulk of their business. To promote more than a single fragrance was simply too expensive. For Chanel, No.5 was "the" fragrance; for Bourjois it was Soir de Paris .

Although New York based Henri Robert became Chanel's chief perfume in 1954, Beaux remained with the company until the year before his death when he was "let go." He died in his Paris apartment in 1961. His funeral was held in the south of France in the Parish of Notre Dame de Graz de Passy. It is said that the church was decorated with roses.

But did Beaux create his last classic in 1936? Beaux, by all accounts, worked every day and constantly experimented with ideas for perfume. During the 1940's, when Chanel had stopped offering new collections, a series of perfumes appeared under the name "Mademoiselle Chanel". While offering these fragrances violated her agreement with the Wertheimers, their existance — and Chanel's attempts to ship them to the United States — became a bit of a game she played with Pierre Wertheimer, who, she believed, was not giving her a large enough share of the profits on "her" fragrances.

A recent analysis of Chanel's Mademoiselle Chanel No. 1 (see "From Rallet No.1 to Chanel No.5 versus Mademoiselle Chanel No.1", Perfumer & Flavorist , October, 2007) has shown it's kinship to Chanel's No.5 . Beaux is on record as having praised the fragrance and thus distanced himself from it, but this recent analysis has uncovered Beaux's "signature" in this fragrance making it unlikely that anyone but Beaux could have created it. A reconstitution of Mademoiselle Chanel No.1 — which exhibits a total lack of the aldehydes for which Beaux was famous but makes heavy use of another material that was new in the 1940s — has shown it to be an exquisite fragrance, on the level of Beaux's best work. Of course we may never know the truth about this fragance that quickly disappeared after Pierre Wertheimer negotiated a new agreement with Gabriel Chanel.

Perfumes Created By Ernest Beaux

If you have any information on Ernest Beaux that you would like to share with us, please do so using the message sender below.

Philip Goutell Lightyears, Inc.

• Beauty Amplified

20 Clean Smelling Fragrances That’ll Give You All the Fresh Feels

It’s no secret that fragrance preference is extremely personal. Your bestie’s favorite neroli-scented spritz may not work the same magic when you wear it , and your go-to winter signature scent may feel too heavy to mist in the heat of the summer . Regardless of your body chemistry, the season, or the occasion, one thing’s for sure–a fresh, clean-smelling scent can be equally flattering and mood-boosting for all. 

Think of clean-smelling perfumes like a clean slate. Something light and airy that won’t weigh you down and smells like fresh laundry (even if you haven’t gotten to it yet). Sounds amazing right? We’ve rounded up 20 of the best clean-smelling fragrances below that will activate your senses without overwhelming them. 

1. Best Vacay in a Bottle:

Acqua di parma blu mediterraneo arancia di capri eau de toilette.

One whiff of this citrusy scent, and you're instantly transported to a romantic island off the coast of Italy with blue waters and an abundance of aperol spritz at your fingertips. Decorated with notes of orange, Sicilian mandarin, lemon, cardamom, caramel, and bergamot, this genderless scent is light, airy, energizing, and full of feel good vibes.

2. Best Clean Sheets Scent:

Demeter linen.

Who doesn’t love to inhale the scent of freshly cleaned sheets? Yup, it’s a guilty pleasure of ours, too. Treat yourself to that crisp-clean scent that this brand so perfectly bottled without stopping at the laundromat. We’re serious, it's the closest you can get to the smell of fresh linens besides fresh linens themselves.

3. Best Cool Weather Fragrance:

Chanel chance eau fraiche eau de toilette spray.

Citrusy? Check. Floral? Check. Woodsy? Triple check. This unique and luxuriously clean perfume is refreshing, yet cozy and warm, making it the perfect fragrance for fall.

4. Most Unique Scent:

Juliette has a gun ode to dullness eau de parfum.

This scent is a classic without being lackluster. Basic without being boring. It captures that effortless, understated cool that doesn’t need to do too much to be noticed. Notes of freesia and star anise dance together, creating a fresh, laid-back vibe that's anything but bland. When sandalwood and cashmere flowers join the mix, you're wrapped in a cozy aura that’s giving modern muse.

5. Best Everyday Scent:

Clean reserve classic warm cotton.

One word: Satisfying. Everything about this fragrance from its warm fragrance notes of bergamot, musk, and amber to its invigorating layers of peony and orange blossom, feels like slipping on a clean white T fresh out of the dryer.

6. Best Rain-Inspired Scent:

Maison margiela replica when the rain stops.

If the thought of a clean perfume makes you think of rain, then consider this your fragrance partner for life. The secret? Top notes of pine that smell like you’re walking through forest fog right after a heavy rainfall.

7. Best Vegan Scent:

Commodity paper- fragrance.

Notes of sandalwood, cedarwood, and amber come together in this perfume to create a scent that’s warm, intoxicating, and clings to skin for hours.

“I loved it the instant I removed the top and the scent hit my nose. It has such a clean scent to it. I was hypnotized,” says Ipster, katiahernandez94.

8. Best Feel-Good Fragrance:

Byredo blanche.

Lazy, sexy, laundry day. That pretty much sums up the mood of this addictive spritz created to evoke the feeling of bodies slipping into fresh sheets and the clean scent of detergent mixed with rose, sandalwood, and musk. Bottom line: It’s a vibe.

9. Best Fragrance With Sustainable Packaging:

Ellis brooklyn sun fruit eau de parfum.

Want to feel like summer all year long? This fruity floral mix transports us back to balmy nights on the beach thanks to notes of fresh fig, pear, jasmine, orange blossom, amber, and coconut. Even better, it comes in a pretty glass bottle that you can repurpose into a holder for anything you wish.

10. Best Rollerball Scent:

Skylar salt air rollie.

This handy rollerball perfume smells just like an ocean breeze thanks to base notes of driftwood and musk, middle notes of cotton and water lily, and top notes of sea salt and seaweed.

“This fragrance is incredible! Not too subtle and not overwhelming. Compliments any moisturizers/lotions I use. This has become my new daily scent,” says one Ipster.

11. Best Post-Shower Scent:

Philosophy pure grace eau de parfum.

This squeaky clean spritz has a cult following (and for a good reason). It has light, airy, powdery base notes that you can wear every single day without getting tired of and is crisp enough that it smells amazing when layered with other scents.

12. Best Fruity Scented Fragrance:

Henry rose smyth eau de parfum.

Granny Smith apples, melon-pineapple sorbet, white tea, sandalwood, and the scent of sheer white woods make this bright eau de parfum spray beyond addictive. Plus, it comes in a smaller travel sized version so you can spritz on the go.

13. Best Mood Boosting Scent:

Ouai dean street eau de parfum.

If you’re in need of a pick-me-up, consider this lovely clean fragrance your new BFF. It’s got built-in notes of citrus, apricot, magnolia, amber, and musk, all layered to invoke the feeling of walking down London’s Dean Street.

14. Best Perfume Oil:

The lyfestyle co. good vibes perfume oil in sunset white amber.

Good vibes, coming right up! This oil has a warm, white amber scent that reminds us of sunny days and balmy nights. It’s infused with quartz crystals to soothe and calm your mind. And its travel-friendly packaging is spill-proof, mess-proof, and makes on-the-go application so easy.

“I love this! It smells soooooo good! I absolutely love using it,” says one Ipster.

15. Best Cult Classic Fragrance:

Dolce & gabbana light blue eau de toilette.

Another cult classic that’s unforgettable for its combinations of notes that literally smell like you’re lounging on a yacht in the South of France (or anywhere ocean side). It’s luxurious, light, and irresistible thanks to a combination of bamboo, jasmine, cedar, and green apple.

16. Most Energizing Scent:

Diptyque eau de minthe eau de parfum.

When it comes to clean scents, something minty fresh fits right in. Layers of patchouli, geranium, and menthe are fresh, lively, and uplifting.

17. Most Layerable Fragrance:

Fresh fresh life eau de parfum.

Consider this your go-to if you’re looking for something minimal that leaves a lasting impression. Layers of grass, magnolia, cypress, and lilac smell pristine on skin and layer like a dream.

18. Best Spicy-Sweet Scent:

Le labo bergamote 22 eau de parfum.

If you’re looking for a toned down but equally as intoxicating version of Santal 33, this baby is it. Fresh, sweet, spicy, and sexy, this genderless scent tickles all the senses.

19. Most Romantic Scent:

Chloe love story eau de parfum.

The only thing more beautiful than this perfume’s padlock shaped bottle (that you’ll want to keep forever), is its sensual floral scent profile made up of notes of neroli, jasmine, orange blossom, and cedar wood.

20. Best Eco-Friendly Scent:

Hermetica jane888 eau de parfum.

All it takes is one whiff of this earthy fragrance and you’re instantly transported to a lush rainforest of the Amazon. It’s all thanks to notes of iris oil, ginger extract, and lily of the valley that evoke thoughts of dense foliage, tangled vines, and fresh air. We love this brand because it’s one of the first fragrance brands to use green chemistry, bridging the gap between sustainable, eco-friendly practices and fine fragrances.

“I love this fragrance!! So light but lasts so long on my skin,” says one Ipster.

Want in on all the IPSY fun? Take our Beauty Quiz now to get started with your own IPSY beauty subscription. Already an IPSY member? Refer your friends to earn points, which you can use toward products. Either way, don’t forget to check us out on Instagram and TikTok @IPSY.

Like this article? Share it with your friends by clicking the icons below!

More Stories