cal 2 29 sailboat data

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Evaluating a Cal 2-29

• Thread starter Jim H23099
• Start date Oct 9, 2005
• Brand-Specific Forums

A friend and I are looking at a local Cal 2-29 for sale:http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?currency=USD&units=Feet&checked_boats=1379820&slim=quick&What are the best things to investigate when looking at a 2-29. If we got serious, we'd have a survey, but every model seems to have its own strengths and weaknesses. We're looking to share a boat that would be comforable for longer crusing for a couple and two kids-- one or two weeks in the San Juan Islands, and hopefully capable of crossing the Columbia River bar to head north in the summer (but not during the more challenging "r" months of the year).I like that the boat above had an epoxy bottom coat in 2002, and a diesel. It doesn't have propane for the stove yet, but the diesel cabin heat is a plus in our area. I like the way the lines are led and the interior is nice, and we also like the wheel with the binnacle mounted engine controls. It only has a 30 gallon water tank, however, and no refrigeration. Thanks!Jim H  

No big deal Jim,You've seen the boat and know more about its condition, etc., so I won't touch on that - though perhaps a Cal 2-29 owner might have some insight into specific items to look for.However, for your stated purpose, I wouldn't worry too much about the specific lacks you identified. Propane is relatively easy to add for cooking, or you could use a diesel stove (a little harder to find and more expensive, but simpler for your boat since it has diesel plumbed to the cabin already.) If you go with propane, I'd be inclined to run a line from a horizontal tank stored on the cabin roof to avoid issues with venting, etc. Also, by placing it directly over your galley space, it makes for a simpler run into the space.For refrigeration, you really don't need it. An icebox (or just a cooler) would be plenty; cruising in the Sound, there are well-stocked harbors everywhere, and you could buy a lot of ice for the price of a refrigerator and power system for your boat. Put in every few days to restock and let the kids run for an hour or two, then head back out and enjoy the rest of the islands.  

love our Cal 2-29, but for sale now We're currently living aboard our Cal 2-29. It's a great boat! We approached ours a bit differently than many do-it-yourselfers. We have a new Yanmar engine in it, and all new standing and running rigging, new spruce spreaders, lights, etc. The interior is awaiting the next owner's skills. Still has original upholstery, and I'm in the process of cleaning the interior teak. We're going to be moving aboard a larger sailboat, so this one's going on the market. If it were a bit larger, we'd NEVER part with it! Questions on the Cal 2-29, you can e-mail us.girlsaylor  

The Beam One flaw in the Cal designs, including my 2-29, is the transverse steel beam under the wood post that supports the mast that takes the downward thrust of the mast. It is under the fiberglass portion that you step over to get to the head. This beam is regular steel that sits in an area that regularly gets wet so check it for rust. You should be able to see it with a mirror and flash light from the main cabin bilge and from the edges of teh floor panels under the head and head lav. Also, you can see teh tabs from under the seat. It can be repaired, but at a cost. There are some great sites detailing the repair. Other than that, she is a great boat. (Faster that those 27' Catalinas.)  

Thanks for the responses Thanks for the responses (especially about inspecting the steel beam). I also agree about the propane and refrigeration-- it's just that we made the "mistake" of doing a short charter on a newer boat and such things seemed nice: but not necessary to get started.By chance, we looked at a second Cal 2-29 yesterday and talked with the owner. I think I like them better than a Catalina 30, but I need to see and sail a Cataline 30 first, since some friends really enjoy theirs for sailing the Columbia and going North to the San Juans.As it is, though, the 2-29s are avaiable, have a sensible layout, and look easy to work on. My friend likes them as well, so we might end up with a shared ownership agreement. Thanks again!  

[email protected]

living aboard Hi! Iam interested in your boat please email me [email protected].thanksrobert moon  

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Richard J Anderson

A Sailor Dad With a Systems Engineering, Architecture, and Consulting Problem

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The Cal 2-29 is a Bill Lapworth design and is a cruiser/racer class sloop.

• LWL – 24 ft
• Beam – 9.25 ft
• Draft – 4.5 ft (fin keel)
• Displacement – 8000 lbs
• Ballast (lead keel) – 3350lbs
• Sail Area – 434 sq ft
• Theoretical Hull Speed – 6.6 knots (we’ve clocked 9kts with GPS and knotmeter)
• Sail Area to Displacement Ratio – 17.36 (pretty good ratio for performance)
• Displacement to LWL – 258 (cruiser/racer)
• Farymann A30M Diesel Inboard w/Nanni 2:1 Reduction transmission (12HP 1-Cyl)
• Cal 29 Owners Guide (’75 and ’77)
• Cal 2-29 Standard Equipment List
• Cal 2-29 Mast Spec’s (’77 2-29)
• Cal 2-29 Dimensions and Weights
• Cal 2-29 Prop Strut
• Cal 29 Farymann A30 Prop Shaft
• Cal 29 Rigging Dimensions
• Cal 29 Color Brochure
• Cal 29 (Infamous) Beam Drawing
• Cal 29 Stainless Beam Photo
• Mariposa Sailing (External Website)
• Renewal Time and Me (External Website)

Cal 2-29 Line Drawing

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32 comments on “ Cal 29 ”

November 2, 2016 at 10:37 am

Hi Richard, My name is Ken and I believe I contacted you maybe 7 months ago with questions about my Cal29. I now have a new problem. About 2 months ago, I grounded it on some rocks. After getting pulled off, I looked for any damage and found under the step/access panel to the battery/ engine compartment, some separation of the sides to the front panel, also, a little more water than normal coming in. Upon pulling the boat out for winter storage, the only visible damage was two dings in the keel about the diameter of a softball. There were no visible cracks.The invisible problem, the keel is now loose to where it will swing sideways. Not to where it looks like it will fall off, only maybe an 2 inches in either direction. After posting this issue on the Cruisers and Sailors forum, one of the responders stated that to his knowledge, the keel is built right into the hull and the 3400 lb lead ballast is dropped into the keel and filled over with whatever material they used. Being involved in the construction industry, the various ways that I figured out to repair this issue, such as stripping all the glass off the ballast and then trying to re-glass it to the hull, all appear to be expensive to the point where the insurance company would consider it totalled considering the age and agreed value. I would love to avoid this for various and obvious reasons to which I’m sure your aware of. With that said, I have come up with another solution I would like your opinion on, especially considering your architectural and engineering background. What if we drilled let’s say,eight or ten long holes down into the keel from the bilge and then filled them with metal rods. Does this sound like a feasible, effective repair for this situation? What diameter and length should the rods be? What type of metal? Any other suggestions would be much appreciated. This is a great boat that we have we paid $3500.00 for and have invested another 5 or 6K in upgrades. I would hate to loose her. Thanks for any input.

[email protected]

November 7, 2016 at 8:57 am

Wow, Sorry to hear about this.. First, I must provide a disclaimer that I am in no way qualified to recommend structural repairs to a boat. You should probably consult a naval architect or reliable boat yard..

However, I will comment on a couple things from my own experience with our Cal 2-29..

1.) On our boat, the bilge area under the batteries and engine is completely isolated from the rest of the bilge. There is no way for water to drain out, so ANY water that gets in there is stuck there. Ours had a big manual bilge pump mounted in front of the batteries that we periodically used to empty that section when there was water. To my knowledge the only sources of water in that area are: a.) The prop shaft packing b.) The raw water lines and pump for the motor

So my suggestion there is to pump out that area and see if more water is coming in, and try to identify the source. I believe the reason for the isolation is in the event of oil or fuel leaks, the oil/fuel won’t drain down to the lower bilge and get pumped out to sea.

2.) Regarding the keel. Ours had a little wobble, maybe an inch or two, the entire time we owned it. IT was never an issue. The hull fiberglass form includes the keel area and the lead is encapsulated inside. The structural reinforcement for the keel seems to be primarily the stringers across the bilge and the fiberglass itself. There are several cases of people running into issues with the keel wobble becoming excessive and having to repair it. Our naval architect contact suggested that we could build/reinforce the stringers under the floor, possibly with some carbon fiber, if it became a problem.

I don’t believe there is any need to internally reinforce the lead itself. If I recall correctly, some owners stripped the bottom paint off and found cracks around the keel to hull joint area, so they reinforced with fiberglass, faired, and repainted. If you have separation of stringers inside the boat, you may need to tighten that all up and reinforce the joints with glass or carbon.

I don’t see any reason to strip all of the glass off the keel, and in fact I would think that would cause structural impairment beyond what you might have currently.

All that said, you may not actually have any structural issues, the keel movement may be normal for the age, so work through the easy stuff first (stuffing box and engine raw water system to identify any sources of water), and possibly strip away some of the bottom paint around the area that the keel meets the hull and check for cracking and flexing there.

Also, I believe the Cal_List on Yahoo Groups has several members that have dealt with this themselves.

bill palmer

April 16, 2019 at 2:49 pm

I saw the note about keel wobble. My Cal 29 suffers the same malady. I am the third owner and have had the boat since the 1980s. It has been checked by a glass/structural repair shop. They did not seem overly concerned, though I am becoming uncomfortable with it as it makes the deck unstable to stand on and it seems to be worsening.

However, your discussion is about a 2-29, which apparently has some manufactured structural framing under the floor that adds strength to the keel-to-hull area, is of interest. I believe all the 29s were manufactured as a one piece hull layup in the mold. Ballast was then placed inside the keel and glassed over. There is no joint between the keel and hull. My 29 (hull 133) has no framing at all other than the bulkhead and inside liner located over the front and rear of the keel. Could you confirm that the 2-29 has some cross-hull framing under the cabin sole, aft of the mast step and forward of the companion way step? If so, I might pursue the glass shop installing some similar structure. I know it would be expensive, but the current situation is more than annoying.

John Stricklett

January 13, 2017 at 1:53 pm

Hello Richard, I recently purchased a 1978 Cal 2-29 and I found the standard equipment list on your site very helpful. I have a 1978 with the dining table that swings up and bolts to the main bulkhead and two settees. Is that the version of the 2-29 that you have? I also have the Atomic 4. – John

January 14, 2017 at 1:07 pm

Do you have a starboard side inline galley and two quarter berths? Or an L galley and one quarterberth? If you have the L galley, and a single quarterberth only, along with a swing up dining table, I believe that means you have a 3-29, which a handful were made near end of production.

I am not aware of any swing up tables on 2-29’s, though I could just not be remembering correctly.

Our 2-29 had a table on a post, and we had a short post to swap in for converting to a dinette. We had the Farymann A30M in ours, single cylinder 12HP diesel. Very simple but worked well.

January 16, 2017 at 10:31 am

Richard, I must actually have the Cal 3-29. It is the L-Galley with one quarter birth. It is Hull # 1005. Probably one of the last ones made. It has the Atomic 4 – which must have been an option instead of the Diesel. The L-Galley opens up the interior and was probably done to counter competitors, who were opting for this design. It does complicate access to the engine. The boat needs some upgrading, but the overall fit and finish is very good. The boat had a FAMET furler, which is still functional, but I may go with something of newer design. I think your site is very helpful, especially if you end up with a boat with little background information from the owner. – John

Steve Kibble

July 7, 2017 at 11:08 am

I’m looking at buying a 29 with wheel steering, that I would like to convert to tiller. Do you have any info about this type of job, or can you point to any online resources? Thanks in advance.

Darrell Street

January 23, 2018 at 5:02 pm

The rudder stock port for a tiller vessel, is a heavy tube of GRP between the the hull up to the cockpit sole where the tiller cap is mounted to the top of the rudder stock which is schedule 40 SS pipe). This GRP rudder tube must have a segment chopped out for the installation of the wheel steering quadrant and a stuffing box bonded in to seal out seawater. I assume the cut out and the stuffing box are not included on a tiller boat, but not sure. The rudder’s stock is likely cut down a bit to make it flush to the cockpit sole for the wheel steering installation (since it is only accessed for an emergency tiller use), so you would want a rudder with a full length stock and the trunnion fitting for the top to take the tiller. As you would probably not want to modify the rudder port, you would want to add some sort of seal mechanism where the rudder tube emerges through the sole to keep deck water out of the boat.

May 17, 2018 at 6:57 pm

Some useful info, here. Thanks! FYI, these links no longer work: Mariposa Sailing (External Website) Renewal Time and Me (External Website)

May 17, 2018 at 6:58 pm

PS. I believe the standard prop shaft diameter for a Cal 29 was one inch, yes?

September 7, 2018 at 10:59 am

Hello all, I am a sailor, and I am reaching out for a dear friend. He recently bought a Cal 2-29 without spreaders. We are looking for specs so he can have them built. Bit of a daunting task, lol.

He has a 1974 Cal 229 with HIn CAB 29573 0474 573

If any of you have or know of a 1974 CAL 229 he would like to get dimensions of the spreaders and particularly if boat is in the pacific northwest. He would happily come out and do measurements. Best would be a boat with HIN starting with CAB. i suspect a CAL 29 would do as well!

GTW Richard I appreciate your spec page and have printed out a couple for my friend!!

Many thanks and I hope to hear from you!!! Any advice much appreciated!!!

September 14, 2018 at 4:23 pm

Have you tried “sailboat wrecking yard” In Lynden Wa? I believe he has a cal 29 on there lot.

April 16, 2019 at 2:03 pm

Did you receive dimensions for the spreaders? I have a pair I took off of mine and can measure if you like. Its the original 29, but I expect the dimensions are the same, at least in terms of length. I patterned and made new ones from the old ones using Sitka Spruce. They have been on the boat for at least 5 years, no problems.

April 16, 2019 at 2:32 pm

I don’t have dimensions for the spreaders, if you could send along that would be great and I’ll get the details online for others.

Bill palmer

October 18, 2019 at 7:17 am

Sorry, just noticed your mail. Dimensions for spreaders: 38 3/4 x 4 1/4 x7/8” Aluminum plates bolted to spreader reinforce wood at mast end and attach to mast with SS pins secured with cutter pins. Outer end has brass strap around end of spreader for shroud to fit into, this secured by small SS wire.

October 27, 2020 at 8:52 pm

Did you get those spreaders made? I could use a pair too and I’m in the PNW.

Carl Brooke

November 14, 2018 at 2:20 pm

Hello John. I just snapped the rubber coupler on the drive line where the prop shaft connects to the back of the engine. Do you know a source for replacements? 1974 Cal 2-29 Faryman A 30.

November 14, 2018 at 4:34 pm

The supplier (PRP-Inc) that used to have the flex coupler (Part#159-0075) seems to be out of business. Their website is gone now. Other than them, the only other option I know of is to find one from an old motor, which may be hard to do. You could have something similar custom made, or possibly get a newer style and modify the mount to make the newer poly disc fit in there.

November 15, 2018 at 7:04 am

I cant find the part anywhere. Do you think it would be ok to just eliminate it and bolt direct to the shaft without it. Cant seem to find any manufacturers who make something equivelent.

Frank Mitchell

October 17, 2019 at 5:51 pm

I have one that I’m not using because I repowered my Cal 2-29. It was a replacement about 18 years ago but was only used for about a year or two.

April 16, 2019 at 8:59 pm

The rubber flexible couplings used for the Farymann model A30M are unusually long (about 4″ ) and if deleted, the prop will probably locate ahead of the P-bracket. There is mention in the Farymann repair manual (pg. 73) that if the shaft has a flexible stuffing box, a flexible coupling should not be used. A basic engine installation theory states that only two of three items should be flexible. These include the engine mounting, the shaft stuffing box and the prop shaft coupling. Since most all recent installations include flexible mounting for the engine, this requires a flexible stuffing box so by this rule the shaft coupling should be a solid one. When I converted to a Yanmar 2GM20F engine/transmission replacing the Farymann (an interesting story on its own), I decided to go with a solid shaft coupling. This has worked well for us with a very flexibly mounted engine. It saves money and space too. Having a flexible coupling there to act as a safety fuse to limit torque should the prop get wrapped is another matter. Protection for the transmission is a selling point but I am more concerned for the shaft or P-bracket getting bent. If the flex coupling is the ‘expendable’ type, then a spare should be carried or space available for the shaft to slide forward when it is removed. The Farymann flex coupling tears in two unlike some modern flex couplings (PYI, etc.). Perhaps an email to the present Nanni company through the USA engine importer could find answers or maybe a source of couplings. I know that the dimensions of this Nanni coupling is quite unlike those of more common engines which flex couplings are made for. I wonder if it might match with a modern Nanni engine.

April 18, 2019 at 11:16 am

Just to finish up an this tricky coupling problem, PYI is a dealer for R&D Marine who makes more typical flexible couplings (but not apparently for the Nanni/Farymann coupling). Since going to a solid coupling is suggested above by me, it would require, in most cases, a longer propeller shaft or an adapter made to fill in the space of the original coupler. This could be made of strong aluminum (if kept as a full cylinder) by a good machine shop. If a longer shaft is planned then you might use a split shaft coupling by R&D as they probably can custom machine the coupling face to the Nanni specs. To read up more on this broken rubber coupling dilemma (from 2008), see http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f114/replacement-flex-coupling-14047-2.html It may still be feasible to buy these from Germany. Note that there are both 3 bolt and 4 bolt versions.

Luis Adrian Gonzalez

October 23, 2019 at 1:03 pm

Hello, Richard. My buddy and I have a 1969 Cal 29, currently on the hard in Gloucester Va. We’re preparing it for passage down to Costa Rica, where we currently reside. We just discovered an important leak in the potable water holding tank. As far as we can tell so far, the only way to get to the tank so we can repair it calls for removal of the fore bulkhead..all the way down to the hull. So I’d like to ask you, and / or any other sailor here, before we go tearing into it…is there any other way to access and repair the tank? I thank you in advance for your kind reply , insight and advice.

Philip Spuler

March 25, 2020 at 8:18 pm

Luis, Just saw this post. Did you fix your tank? I also have a 1969 Cal 29 #110. I have been putting off maintenance on my water tank but will probably be getting to it this season. My plan was to start hacking up the V berth sole till I could get to it then patch it back together. I’m would be interested in hearing your approach.

April 22, 2020 at 10:38 am

I removed my water tank by opening up the berth. Trickery but will come out and back in. (Had a leak in weld) Norway’s Ark, Hull #3

February 1, 2021 at 10:01 am

Hello everyone. I have a 1970 Cal 29 and I am trying to restore the windows. Any Ideas as to where to get the rubber extrusion that is on the inside part of the frames. All the window repair companies here in Cleveland are clueless.

March 27, 2022 at 4:40 pm

Ken, I salvaged as much of that as I could when I removed the old lights. It was all stiff and worthless BUT I cut a few small pieces that seemed to still resemble rubber and used them as spacers to position the new acrylic in the frame. Taped everything off and sealed it with a good calk the acrylic shop recommended. No leaks yet. Good luck getting them out next time though 😬. I’d rather fight that than leaks, so we are happy.

March 19, 2022 at 4:53 pm

Anyone know what the bore diameter on the prop strut is for a 1976 cal 2-29? It’s not on the drawing linked above

March 20, 2022 at 8:02 am

Also the stern tube od?

March 20, 2022 at 4:25 pm

My 1973 model the strut uses a cutlass bearing with 1.25″ OD. I run with a 1″ stainless shaft for a yanmar 2GM20F.

August 3, 2022 at 9:50 am

Hi I’m looking for engine parts for my ‘76 cal 2-29, specifically a head gasket. It’s got the ‘74 A30 Farymann diesel. I’m not having much luck finding parts

August 3, 2022 at 10:41 am

Have you tried these guys? http://www.farymann.com/service.php

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Cal 29 - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for Cal 29 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more.

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Review of Cal 2-29

Basic specs..

The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.

The Cal 2-29 is equipped with a fin keel. The fin keel is the most common keel and provides splendid manoeuvrability. The downside is that it has less directional stability than a long keel.

The keel is made of lead. Compared with iron, lead has the advantage of being 44% heavier, which allows a smaller keel and hence less water resistance and higher speed.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.37 - 1.47 meter (4.49 - 4.79 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

The boat is typically equipped with an inboard engine

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.6 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Cal 2-29 is about 138 kg/cm, alternatively 777 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 138 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 777 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 23m 2 (247 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Cal 2-29 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

Specifications

Basic information.

• Builder CAL
• Category Cruisers
• HIN/IMO 000000
• Condition Used
• Hull Material Fiberglass
• LOA 29'
• Beam 9' 3"
• Max Draft 4' 5"
• Fuel Tank 20 GAL
• Fresh Water 40 GAL
• Holding Tank 10 GAL
• Displacement 8,000 LBS

"Callisto" 1976 CAL 29'

The Cal 29 is one of the best boats around for its size range. This William Lapworth design is fast, comfortable, and sturdy, she is an excellent boat for cruising, day-sailing, or casual racing. Comes equipped with an upgraded 2GM Yanmar Diesel.

Full Description

• 2010 - Added custom teak and cherry headliner
• 2011 - Installed new custom cushions with Ultra sude fabric
• 2008 - Interior was published in Cruising World magazine Nov. 2008

Sails And Rigging

• 2002 - Doyle Full Battened Stack Pack Mainsail w/ 2 reef points
• 2002 Doyle Durasail 130% Furling genoa
• 2014 - North Asymmetric cruising spinnaker
• 2012 - Gerhauer Traveller
• Gerhauer Fairlead blocks
• 2011 Replaced standing rigging

Hull & Deck

• 2016 - Coppercoat bottom paint applied
• 2012 - Custom stern railing added with gate
• 2012 - added life line gate to starboard side.
• 2004 Custom forward Bomar hatch installed
• 2004 Replaced cabin ports with Lexan Ocean Series ports 
• 2009 - Replaced head

Electronics

• 2021 - Installed Simrad EV03 9" MFD in binnacle. Displays radar/chart overlay.
• 2015 - Added Simrad display on bulkhead
• 2015 - Installed B&G 3G radar
• 2015 - Installed B&B network and Wi-Fi
• 2015 - Installed B&G VHF with AIS Receiver
• 2015 - Installed Simrad depth and speed transducer

The company offers the details of this vessel in good faith but cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy of this information nor warrant the condition of the vessel. A buyer should instruct his agents, or his surveyors, to investigate such details as the buyer desires validated. This vessel is offered subject to prior sale, price change or withdrawal without notice.

Listing MLS by Yachtr.com

The Cal 29 is one of the best boats around for its size range. This William Lapworth design is fast, comfortable, and sturdy, she is an excellent boat for cruising, day-sailing, or casual racing. Comes equipped with an upgraded 2GM Yanmar Diesel.  This vessel sleeps 6 with one V-berth, two quarter-berths and a table berth. The cockpit is equipped with a removable table and has swim ladder. All running rigging leads to the cockpit, making singlehanding the boat easy. "Callisto" is a great example of this classic design. Her interior was featured in Cruising Worls magazine (Nov. 2008) and she was featured in a recent Captain Q video. She comes with many upgrades Which include:Custom Cherry and Teak cabin overheadUpdated electronicsRe-powered in 2002Upgraded hatch and portsCustom aft pushpit with swim ladder Brewer Yacht Sales is pleased to assist you in the purchase of this vessel. This boat is centrally listed by Sailboats Northeast. It is offered as a convenience by this broker/dealer to its clients and is not intended to convey direct representation of a particular vessel

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Cal 2-29 vs Cal 2-27 (Crown 28, actually...)

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So, I've been very impressed with everything I've read about the Cal 2-29, and lots of former owners have made the same comment "it's the one boat I wish I'd never sold"... There's one for sale somewhat close to here that I've shown some interest in, but after over a month of trying to squeeze some very basic information from the seller, I'm starting to think they're not that interested in actually selling it. (I would post the kijiji link here, but I'm too new with not enough posts... BC Kijiji, Cal 2-29) The "must sell" seems to be a little misleading, based on my correspondences with the owner so far... there's very limited info in the ad, and the one photo suggests the upkeep may be a little lacking (hard to say for sure though, it is only one photo after all). So, now there's a Crown 28 also for sale, which was made here in BC in the same facility that had the contract to produce Cals in the 70's. From everything I've read, it essentially IS a Cal 2-27. Not having ever actually set foot on either one, it seems to me that in a perfect world with all being equal, I would lean towards the 29. I know it would obviously have a slightly faster hull speed, I like the layout better (two quite long quarter berths-- myself @ 6'3" and my wife @ 6' would have arguing feet in the V-berth, whereas the kids would go well up there), and of course, 2 ft itis... a little more room overall. In this case though, the Crown 28 looks like it may have a few better features, and probably better cared for, for slightly (though very comparable) less money... So, hold out for a Cal 29, or look further into the Crown 28... Opinions???  

I have a Cal 2-27, I have some very limited experience with the Cal 2-29, and I've never seen a Crown 28 "in the flesh". The 2-29 does feel a bit bigger than the 2-27. In that size range two feet really makes a bit of difference, and the added waterline will five you a bit more speed. In fact, the guy I bought my bought from moved up to a 2-29, mainly for the additional space. However, both are very nice sailing boats, well built, and plenty solid enough for coastal sailing. The designer, Bill Lapworth, was supposedly a pretty tall guy himself; so most of the boats he drew have "human sized" berths (about 6'6" in my boat). And those quarter berths on the 2-29 would come in handy. However, I prefer the "dueling settees" of the 2-27 to the dinette of the 2-29, even if it does limit the galley space on the 2-27 somewhat. Looking at the line drawings of the Crown 28 it does look similar to the 2-27. However, the underwater lines are a bit different. The keel, for one, doesn't quite look like the classic long, stubby, "Cal keel" of the 2-27, and the hull looks a bit flatter in the forefoot. In fact, the Crown's UW lines look a bit closer to those of the Cal 3-27, than to those of the 2-27. I think Lapworth/Cal used such deeper/shorter-root keels after the "2-series" designs were retired, so it may be that the Crown 28 reflects this transition. The Crown does look (from drawing and pictures) like it has a bit more interior room than the 2-27, but the head compartment seems a bit pinched. The head compartment on the 2-27 is HUGE for a 27-foot boat (one can actually pull up ones pants without banging around against all the bulkheads/doors/fixtures!!!!), and you would be amazed how much more "livable" that makes it feel. Hope my ramblings help.  

Nice summary, SBS! If the Crown 28 has enough advantages over the Cal 29 (condition, equipment, upkeep) I think you'd be just as happy with the Crown. You probably need to 'get aboard' them both to really assess how 'liveable' and important (or not) the differences are.  

Thanks both for your input. The owner of the Crown 28 got back to me quickly, when I told him my height, and my wife's height, he responded, "I don't want to discourage a prospective buyer, but I think you'll find the berths too short". I appreciated his honesty! The Crown deinitely looks like it has more for less $, but if there are height issues with the berths (I'm willing to tolerate slouching when I'm standing, but not sleeping with bent knees all night), I'm afraid it's definitely off the list. Back to dreaming about Cals!  

My bet is that berth length is going to be an issue in any boat in this size range, at least initially, unless you manage to do some slight modifications to the layout. Even a berth several inches longer than your height is likely to feel a bit tight, as people tend to feel uncomfortable with their heads smack up against the bulkhead/headboard and their toes smack up against something else. You might note that a standard Queen or King mattress is 6'8" long, and a "California King" is 7' long. I'm 5'11" and the 6'6" berths on my Cal 2-27 took a little getting used to. One suggestion I would offer is to look for a boat with facing settees, rather than a dinette. That way you can put some sort of filler between the settees to make one big bed, and either sleep athwart or at least on a diagonal. Granted, it wouldn't be very useful under way, but at the dock or on the hook it would be fine (I've been thinking of doing something like this to my boat).  

saltfree said: So, I've been very impressed with everything I've read about the Cal 2-29, and lots of former owners have made the same comment "it's the one boat I wish I'd never sold"... There's one for sale somewhat close to here that I've shown some interest in, but after over a month of trying to squeeze some very basic information from the seller, I'm starting to think they're not that interested in actually selling it. (I would post the kijiji link here, but I'm too new with not enough posts... BC Kijiji, Cal 2-29) Click to expand...

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Expanding our considerations - Cal 2-29

• Thread starter Keel Joy
• Start date Apr 28, 2021

More options

• Apr 28, 2021

While we are still looking for a thunderbird.  We would also consider buying a Cal 2-29 in decent shape.  Essentially our Ranger but with pedestal steering and more offshore comfort.  So...if you know of a t-bird or Cal 2-29 [email protected]   250 325-0056  We did look at the Cal in Vancouver but too late , and the one in Port Townsend is pretty sad.  

Super Anarchist

Have you considered adding the C&C 29 to your search? I would go for the MkII myself. Been helping a friend to find a boat and it's a weird market right now.  

Administrator

My parents had a Cal 29 when I was younger and it was a really good boat. Loved it! Just fyi...  

If the Cal is an option then that opens lots of other choices. Tartan 30, Yankee 30, Pearson, C&C, CS, Sabre 28 etc. As mentioned finding a good boat in this market is tough so expanding your options is a plus.  

• Apr 29, 2021
• Thread starter

Good to know...BTW is a 1987 Catalina 30 always a tall rig (or did they continue to make the standard version?  

J29?  

• May 17, 2021

Keel Joy said: While we are still looking for a thunderbird.  We would also consider buying a Cal 2-29 in decent shape.  Essentially our Ranger but with pedestal steering and more offshore comfort.  So...if you know of a t-bird or Cal 2-29 [email protected]   250 325-0056  We did look at the Cal in Vancouver but too late , and the one in Port Townsend is pretty sad. Click to expand...

The steel beam thing that the guy mentions is apparently a thing with Cals. Apparently they have a galvanized athwartship stiffener under main (mast-supporting) bulkhead. Which, being galvanized, eventually rots and needs to be replaced.  Pictures here make it look like a pain - have to disassemble the head, then cut the beam out of it's fiberglass home, havee a new one cut, and then tab it in. But not the end of the world. https://www.sailnet.com/threads/sea-fevers-cal-29-beam-of-death.60328/ Also, by the look of those pictures they also have steel bulkhead tabs, which, >> ????? Yeah. I guess on bigger boats that maybe makes sense, although it really seems like it would create a hard spot in the hull that concentrated forces, and not be much stronger than a tabbed BH.  

Somebody Else

A person of little consequence.

Breamerly said: The steel beam thing that the guy mentions is apparently a thing with Cals. Apparently they have a galvanized athwartship stiffener under main (mast-supporting) bulkhead. Which, being galvanized, eventually rots and needs to be replaced.  Pictures here make it look like a pain - have to disassemble the head, then cut the beam out of it's fiberglass home, havee a new one cut, and then tab it in. But not the end of the world. Click to expand...

Somebody Else said: Yep. A standard part of a Cal40 restoration. It can be done but it's sort of a pain. Click to expand...

• May 19, 2021

Man if going to the trouble to get that steel footer out of there, why put another steel one back in?  Make it out of frp.    

Cal2-29 Skybird

• Aug 12, 2021

I'm an owner of a Cal 2-29, always fresh water kept.  She's built to IOR specs as a coastal cruiser/racer.    She'll carry up to a 170 genoa.   155 is class legal.  It's a headsail driven design.   Points beautifully.  The shear keeps her dry on deck.  Although with the 4.5 ft draft you have to foot her when sailing close hauled.  Perfect for ICW type applications brought on by the draft number.  Haven't sailed this boat on the ICW but have transited other designs.  The sailing characteristics are fantastic.  Balances easily.  Just a joy to sail.   The design has issues including the "dreaded beam" and the sump behind the encapsulated keel.   I've mitigated the latter.  The former has been "scoped" and is not an issue in a "fresh" boat.  She's a 1974.  Bad (although cost cutting) idea to put mild steel in a coastal boat, I give you that. The other major issue you may encounter is blistering.  I've been told that during the 1972 energy crisis, the formulation of vinylesther (etc.) polymers were changed to reduce costs.  If the legend is true, it resulted in permeability.   I tend to think, in the case of my boat, that the real problem was the lack of gel coating in the bilge spaces which allowed the bilge water and the drainage from the icebox to sit in the bilge and basically delaminate the exterior from the inside out.  Water was wicking through the laminate and blistering the exterior.  This is largely borne out by the pattern of the blistering.  In our case, this issue was cured by stripping the hull to the glass matt, applying 3 coats of West System epoxy, below the waterline and covering it with 7 coats of Interprotect 2000e barrier coat.  As an added tip, the first three coats of the InterProtect where white.   That was followed with four coats of gray.  Should you have to sand the hull, the color change will indicate that you're near the epoxy.   Thus far, ten plus years in, this has been a winning approach.  We no longer put countless pounds of ice in the icebox to drain into the bilge.  We keep the bilge dry.  The blistering problem is resolved.    

As an add-on to the Cal 2-29 discussion, there are engineering drawings of the beam, to be rebuilt in stainless and the easiest method to replace (going through the pan in the head area, forward of the salon, is located here:   Cal 29 – Richard J Anderson (richardanderson.net)   Full attribution to Richard.   Thanks for posting.  

blurocketsmate

• Aug 14, 2021

@Cal2-29 Skybird  What did you do with your keel sump?  

Raced aboard a Cal 29 in the early seventies in Puget Sound.  It was competitive but disconcerting in that when powered up if you stood in the salon with your feet spread out during a tack you could feel the cabin sole liner shift a inch+ up and down athwartships.  The owner was a Boeing engineer and he said yep, the hull/keel/liner(?)  structure was kinda flexy but some flex in some structures isn't necessarily a bad thing.   

• Aug 16, 2021

in the current market esp but also any buying opportunity buy the best deal maybe price but could be something else best maintained or equipped OR THE NEW MOTOR or sail inventory and DO not fix on one model ONLY unless you just enjoy the hunt and in the current boat market one can flip a good deal for a gain worse case you got a boat to sail while you hunt  

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• Sailboat Guide

Cal 29 is a 29 ′ 0 ″ / 8.8 m monohull sailboat designed by C. William Lapworth and built by Bangor Punta Corp., Jensen Marine/Cal Boats, and Calgan Marine Ltd. between 1968 and 1974.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

The CAL 29 was one of this builders most popular models. The CAL 2-29, introduced somewhat later, was the same boat but with a number of extra features that came as standard equipment. (see CAL 2-29 for more details.) It appears that, for a time, both versions were being built simultaneously. Including both versions, more than 1000 were built. Special thanks to CAL 2-29 owner David Burnham for providing the information that finally solved this mystery.

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Posted 2024-09-09 21:38

Contact Information:

For sale: 1974 Cal 2-29 Sailboat - $6,000 (Burlington)

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For sale: 1974 Cal 2-29 Sailboat - boats - by owner - marine sale -...

Description 1974 CAL 2-29, Sailboat/Sloop Hull ID # CAE 296160474 VT Registration # CAB2 Parallèle 44 is a 1974 Cal 2-29–a spacious 29-foot vintage cruiser sloop designed and built in California for...

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On Tuesday, firefighters were transported by helicopter to the northern part of the fire zone. They used infrared data from aircraft, which provided heat signatures to help locate and address hot spots. Crews are continuing with suppression repair and are working on establishing and strengthening control lines. Today’s weather remained hot and dry, with temperatures in the near or below 90s. However, a slight cooling trend is expected over the next few days, along with wind gusts reaching up to 35 mph on Wednesday.

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The Cal 29 is a 29.0ft masthead sloop designed by William Lapworth and built in fiberglass by Jensen Marine/Cal Boats between 1968 and 1974.

624 units have been built..

The Cal 29 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally small. There is a very short water supply range.

Cal 29 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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