how to crew a 420 sailboat

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420 Rigging Guide

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Posted on 14 March 2009 19:26

A smaller version of the olympic 470 class, the 420 was formerly a youth development class (i.e. young people trained up in the 420 before moving onto olympic class boats), the 420 has a good class following, and is a good introduction to performance boats.

The 420 has a Plymouth Yardstick (Handicap Number) of 1087 - pretty fast, but still fair. For those who like the 420, as they progress they may move into the larger 470, which has a similar layout but is slightly larger. The 420 has a single crew trapeze and a symmetric spinnaker, and for those nutters amongst you, can even be setup to sail single handed.

Photo 1, The 420, ready to rig with no wind.

Photo 2, Cockpit layout

Photo 3, Front bulkhead and mast

What You need

- Hull - Mast + Shrouds and Forestay - Boom - Main Sail - Rudder - Centreboard (usually attached) - Outhaul - Downhaul - Kicking Strap - Bungs - Painter Rope - Elastic bungee for the trapeze

Photo 4, Mast and halyard jammer arrangement

Photo 5, Thwarte and centreboard

Photo 6, Rudder pintles

Photo 7, Traveller

Lets Get Started!

Photo 8, Jib sheet jammers

Photo 9, Parts laid out ready to rig

Before starting for the first time, make sure you have everything available, or a rope and spares box handy. The 420 hull is smooth with no chines (ridges), so can be quite "tippy". Once again the 420 is a restricted design rather than one design, so there is room for alternatives, if you want to experiment or upgrade, we suggest you take a look at the 420 Class Rules for more information.

Photo 10, Closeup of kicker parts

Photo 11, Underside of boom

We chose not to take apart the mast and take it down. If yours comes with the mast off, which it possibly will, it's a simple matter of untangling the shroud and forestay wires, dropping the bottom of the mast into the mast step inside the boat (after checking the bottom of the mast is clean), and then securing the shroud and forestay wires with split pins and rings or whatever other fittings are on your boat. It's a good idea to check the state of the pulley sheaves in the bottom of the mast - if these are rusted, jammed up or just don't run very well it makes it harder to hoist the sails.

We recommend two people to step the mast - one to hold the mast up while the other attaches the pins. Masts on 420's can vary, with jammers and pulley blocks in different positions. The spreaders should be adjustable - although we haven't yet covered adjusting these in an article, look for one soon.

Photo 12, Back end of boom

Photo 13, Kicker attachment on boom

Photo 14, Spinnaker pole holders

Photo 15, Attach the jib to the front chainplate

Attach the fitting at the bottom of the jib luff to the chainplate or fixing at the front of the deck, as shown in Photo 15. The jib goes behind the forestay, as shown. Attach the top of the jib luff to the free end of the halyard with a shackle (Photo 16), and then hoist the jib. Tie the halyard off into the appropriate jammer/cleat, usually found on the mast on a 420. At this point, if the mast is adjusted correctly, the jib luff should now be tight, and the forestay a little slack, as shown in the photo. To achieve this, the best way is for one person to pull forward on the forestay to pull the mast forward slightly, while the other hoists the jib.

Photo 16, Attach the jib to the end of the halyard

Next, attach the jib sheets to the clew on the jib. The easiest way is to double the rope over to find the midpoint, tie one stopper knot, feed it through the clew, and then tie another stopper knot the other side - this keeps the rope with equal lengths either side (Photo 19). Feed the working ends of each jib sheet inside each shroud and trapeze wire, through the fairlead and jammer block (Photo 20). Finish it off with a stopper or figure 8 knot.

Photo 17, Hoist the jib

Photo 18, Jib hoisted. The wind was starting to pick up...

Photo 19, Jib sheet attached to clew of jib

An alternative method is to use continuous jib sheets, particularly if you are mad enough to sail it single handed. There are two ways to do this - either rig as above, and tie the ends together, or for a more permanent arrangement without any knots in the boat, dou need to do this slightly back to front, and feed the working ends through the jammers backwards, before attaching to the sail. Pass each end through the clew so there are two lengths of rope going through the clew, and then tie a fishermans knot - tie a single basic knot in each piece of rope, with the other end passing through the middle of it. This will make it harder to take the jib sheets off, so don't do it if you need to derig quickly; it also means you can't use the jibsheet to help right the boat after a capsize.

Photo 20, Pass the jib sheets through the jammers

Photo 21, Slide the main sail foot car into the boom

3. Main Sail onto boom

Next, feed the car on the bottom of the mainsail (Photo 21), and then the mainsail foot, into the slot on the top of the boom (Photo 22). Pull it along until it reaches the end (photo 23), then slide a cotter pin into the fitting at the end (Photo 24), through the eye in the tack, to hold the front egde of the sail.

Photo 22, Pull the main sail along the boom

Photo 23, All the way to the end

Photo 24, Pin the tack of the main sail

Photo 25, Thread the outhaul rope thorugh the jammer

We have the end of our outhaul rope whipped with tape to stop it fraying, and we had no source of flame available. Put a knot in one end of the outhaul rope, and then pass the other, working end, through the v jammer style cleat on the underside of the boom (Photo 25). Pass it through the boom end (Photo 26), around the sheave (Photo 27), and through to the top of the boom (Photo 28). Next, either attach it to a shackle (Photo 29) and the shackle to the clew of the sail, or directly attach it to the clew using a bowline. The complete outhaul can be seen in Photo 31. If you are setting up the boat for competitive racing, you may wish to change this arrangement, just remember to keep within the class rules!

Photo 26, Then through the end of the boom

Photo 27, Around the sheave

Photo 28, Pull it through

Photo 29, Attach to a shackle or the sail

Photo 30, A shackle can be used for quick derigging

Photo 31, Outhaul complete

5. Hoist mainsail

Attach the main sail halyard to the top of the mainsail using an appropriate shackle (Photo 32), then one person should feed the main sail luff into the slot on the back of the mast (Photo 33), as the other hoists it using the halyard (Photo 34).

Photo 32, Attach the main sail halyard

Photo 33, Feed the main sail luff into the mast slot

Do not put the boom on the gooseneck yet - one person should lift the boom to take the weight off the sail, and then hoist the sail to the top of the mast. Next, pull down on the boom and feed it onto the gooseneck (Photo 35).

Photo 34, Hoist the main sail

Photo 35, Pull the boom down to the gooseneck

Now, put the kicker together. A swivel block is attached to the mast, and a v-jammer to the underside of the boom. In our pictures, the v-jammer is attached to a short length of steel wire, which is permanently fixed onto the underside of the boom.

Photo 36, Assemble the kicker

Photo 37, Assemble the kicker

Next, feed the rope through the blocks as shown, starting by tying the one end to the becket on the v-jammer, down through the swivel block from underneath up to the top, then back up to the v-jammer, around and out through the jammer. Put a stopper or figure 8 knot in the end to sop it going through. See Photos 36-38 to assemble the kicker, and Photo 39 for the completed kicking strap.

7. Trapeze Handles + Elastic

Assemble the trapeze handle jammers in the same manner as the kicker - although in the picture shown, our top block is twisted round (Photo 40). A length of elastic reaches from one handle to the other, going from a handle, through a fairlead, through a whole in the deck/bow, behind the mast, then out the other side to the other trapeze handle (Photos 41 and 42). We'd recommend not using the trapeze the first time you go out, until you get more used to the boat, unless you are a very experienced trapeze artist!

Photo 38, Assemble the kicker

Photo 39, The complete kicker (2:1)

Photo 40, An assembled trapeze wire and handle

Photo 41, The trapeze elastic

8. Mainsheet + Traveller

Tie one end of the main sheet to the fairlead fixing in the middle of the underside of the boom behind the swivel block (Photo 43), with a bowline (Photo 44). Feed it through the block attached to the traveller behind the centreboard (Photo 45), then back up and through the swivel block on the boom (Photo 46). Next, take the working end down, and through the pull and then the jammer block (Photo 47), and finish off with a stopper or figure 8 knot.

Photo 42, The trapeze elastic

Photo 43, Attach the main sheet to the boom

Different traveller designs are used on 420s - on ours an older one is in use, which has seen better days. Unfortunately, its broken to the point where it can no longer be used as a traveller, and is difficult to replace because it is fixed onto the bouyancy tanks at either side - this is an important thing to look out for when buying a 420.

Photo 44, Attach the main sheet to the boom

Photo 45, Through the pulley on the traveller

In theory, the position of the traveller can either be fixed by jamming the adjustment lines to control the amount of twist in the sail, or left to move from side to side as required.

Photo 46, Back up to the pulley on the boom

Photo 47, The complete mainsheet

This is an easy one - attach the rudder to the pintles on transom as shown (Photo 48). Depending on your style of rudder/tiller, you may have uphaul and/or downhaul lines on it (Photo 49).

Photo 48, Add the rudder

Photo 49, Attach the rudder uphaul

Ensure you place all bungs into holes that require them - this is important, as 420's have very large bouyancy tanks which don't take well to filling up with water (Photos 50 and 51).

Photo 50, Don't forget the bungs!

Photo 51, Don't forget the bungs!

11. Buying a 420

There are several things to watch out for when buying a second hand 420. First of all, check for the springiness of the tops of the bouyancy tanks, where you sit - these can be weaker on older models and are difficult to strengthen. Also look at the traveller and see what condition it is in, and how easy to replace - be careful if it is similar to ours as we are having difficulty locating spares to repair ours. As always, check for the condition of the deck, and look for any cracks or damage, particularly along seams, joins and structural areas.

On the mast, the pulley blocks can wear out quickly, as they tend to sit in water at the bottom of the boat. This can make it hard to hoist the sail. On the subject of the sail - check the luff for any damage, particularly around the top full length batten where it can wear and make it hard to hoist the sail.

Check any hairline cracks around the hull - it is usual to see them on an older boat, just make sure they aren't hiding more damage, particularly in corners or joins.

There you have it - a fully rigged and ready to sail 420. The 420 does have a spinnaker - unfortunately we had no wind when we started rigging our boat, but a devilish Force 6 by the time we finished, so not very good for rigging a spinnaker on land. We will revisit the 420 soon and add an article on rigging the spinnaker.

Photo 52, The 420, all rigged (minus spinnaker)

Photo 53, A rather windy day by now, with good sail shape and streaming telltales!

- Download the PDF version of this article

Fig 1. Get all the gear ready

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Accelerate skill development in a boat that delivers an edge.

A Mackay 420 has been behind nearly every world champion success since we commenced building 420’s in 2012.

Specifications

Hull Length                            4.2 m

Beam Length                        1.63 m

Mainsail Area                       7.4 m2

Headsail Area                       2.8 m2

Spinnaker Area                    9.0 m2

Boat Weight                          100 kg

Hull Weight                           80 kg

Hull Material                         GRP

No. of Crew                           2

Opt Crew Weight                 110 - 145 kg

Number of Trapeze             Single

Designer                                 Christian Maury

420 Class Association website:  http://www.420sailing.org/

The 420 is one of the best options to learn the ropes about two-person dinghy sailing. Crews learn how to tune a boat, set up control systems, trim sail combinations (jib, main and spinnaker together), work on downwind and upwind techniques, and importantly, learn how to work with another crew.

The Class has attracted many top sailors to it, providing a learning platform that has led them into successful Olympic campaigns and big boat careers.  

The 420’s design and class rules gave us the opportunity to build a boat similar to how the Mackay 470 is built in terms of the mould structure and look of the boat. 

The Mackay 420 hull shape was developed by naval architect Kevin Trotter. Kevin has designed very fast dinghies here in New Zealand over the years. Using the latest design and analysis software, along with the luxury of time we were able to evaluate the expected performance along with the look of the boat. 

Looking at where crews tended to sit in the boat in different conditions affected where we pushed the displacement curve of the boat.   Additionally, Kevin's skiff designs gave valuable insight into the way the rocker curve and buttocks lines should run through the middle and aft sections.

The hull is made from a polyester e-glass fibre, using foam core ribs and core mat panels.

The Mackay 420 deck to hull joint system is the same as our 470s, which allows for the same exceptionally strong but light gunwale arrangement. This extends around the bow and across the transom.

We have also borrowed some other features off the 470.  As an example, the way the mast partner is fitted to the deck after the boat is built allows the bulkhead in front of the mast to be more vertical and closer to the mast.  This is better for rig tension and weight distribution.  It also improves the look of the boat giving it a longer foredeck. 

The rudder stock is in cast aluminum which provides excellent support. The foils are built in the same way as our 470 foils by resin infusion.  

Most importantly the time and energy we put into the rudder and centreboard design along with the finishing of the moulds has resulted in some very special foils.

420: Our recent successes

420 Mackay Boats History

How to do a gelcoat repair.

Small gel coat repairs are relatively easy to do. 

What is Gelcoat made up of?

Gelcoat is a polyester product that is cured by using a catalyst called MEKP. (Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide)

MEKP is a dangerous substance and should be treated as such when using, being very careful not to get any on your skin or in your eyes.

How can I get the catalyst - MERK?

We cannot ship MEKP so you will always need to buy it separately from your local marine store or fibreglass manufacturer.

How much MERK do I need?

The amount of Catalyst varies depending on the conditions you are using it in, but around 2%-3% will always work.

It is best to use a small syringe or dropper to get the required catalyst rate.

If you have mixed 100gm of gelcoat, then you are aiming for 2ml of catalyst.

What are the Gelcoat colours?

Gelcoats colours are not always a 100% perfect match.

Colour will vary depending on the depth of the repair and the batch.

470, 420, 29er & Starling are built from polyester resin.

For Polyester boats

470  White-  LS30    White PA 337

470  Grey- Grey RAL 7035

Blue = is supplier by Nuplex who have their own code which is not an international code

Does Mackay Boats supply gelcoat?

We supply a small tin (of each relevant colour) with each new boat.

Order additional gelcoat from our store, although it cannot be shipped by courier.

How do I do gelcoat repairs?

Doing gelcoat repairs is an art that improves with experience.

Making sure the surface is prepared well and keyed up is critical.

Overfill and then sanding back is a slow and time-consuming process.

Be very careful not to scratch the boat around the repair.

You shouldn’t sand the original surface around the repair with any paper coarser than 600grit.

Mask around the repair to protect the boat.

You can initially use a file or 150g to take the high parts off the filling, but don't use the coarse paper for too long or you will end up with scratches in the finished repair.

Once you have it fair with 600g, you can work your way through the sandpaper grades until you finish with 1500grit before cutting and polishing.

We would typically use 600g, then 800g or 1000g, then 1200g, then finally 1500g.

What can be customised?

Deck colour and non-skid on the side-decks. You can find these options if you try the boat configurator on our website.

What colour options do you offer?

White, Light Grey, Light Blue, Light Green, and Cream. On the 420, Grey is the most popular, with Blue and White equal second most popular.

How do you fit a mylar gasket the hull?

 Please watch this short video that demonstrates fitting a mylar gasket to the 420 hull - 

>> Fitting a mylar gasket .

420 Tuning Tips

Are you sure you want to change currency.

420 Tips From the Tops

From the Team Vanguard site.

The following measurements are those we have found to be the fastest settings for a Club 420. After experimentation you may find that a slightly different setting may mean even better boat speed for you and your style of sailing. The Club 420 is an extremely popular boat used in both college and club/junior racing. It has been sailed in numerous Youth Championships. It is the recognized junior class boat in many areas. In college sailing, once the standing rigging is set, there is no adjustment to the shrouds, spreaders, mast butt position, etc. In club/junior sailing there may be an opportunity for adjustment. Our tuning guide addresses both types of sailing and the compromises necessary for collegiate racing. Scroll down the page to read the entire guide.   MAST STEP The mast step should be set at 9′-4 1/2″ when measured from the inside of the transom along the floor of the boat to the back of the mast. Usually this places the butt of the mast in the first pin hole from the front. MAST RAKE To measure the rake hoist a tape measure to the top of the mast on your main halyard. Lead the tape measure over the top of the transom, down the aft face of the transom to where the transom meets the bottom of the boat. For club/junior sailing the rake should be adjusted to fall between 21′-6 1/2″ for light winds and 20′-9 1/2″ for heavy air. Note that the shrouds and, therefore, the rig tension should be adjusted as well, as the rake is ALT=”ered for varying wind conditions. (Please see chart at end of tuning guide.) In general in heavier winds and as you become overpowered, rake the mast farther aft which will twist open the leech of the jib and depower the sail. This has the same effect as moving the jib lead aft. Raking the mast aft also moves the center of effort aft, which makes the boat naturally head up into the puffs instead of being blown over sideways. Heavy crews (over 270 lb.) will want to rake aft in higher wind velocities because they can use the extra power. Lighter crews (under 240 lb.) will tend to be overpowered sooner and should rake farther aft in lower wind velocities. Here is a good rule of thumb. If your boom is consistently out beyond the corner of the boat to maintain the boat balance when sailing upwind, you should rake the mast farther aft. Note: As mentioned earlier, racing the Club 420 collegiately you are limited in the amount of adjustments that can be made. You are restricted to the shroud settings that the host college has selected. Each fleet may be set up differently (hopefully each boat in the fleet is identical) making the “magic numbers” different. In light winds you want the rig raked farther forward. In heavy winds it is necessary to rake it aft. Since you are not able to adjust the shrouds as the rig is raked aft, the result is a looser rig, but one that is still better balanced with depowered sails. By itself this set up is fine, but be careful of overtensioning the boomvang in a breeze. Too much vang tension without the tighter rig and mast blocks (see section on following pages) will lead to excessive headstay sag and overbending of the mast. This creates a jib that is too full, a main that is too flat and a badly balanced boat. Instead sail with a looser vang in heavy winds. With the vang more eased the mainsheet will control the amount of twist (the angle of the top batten to the boom). You can depower quickly by easing the sheet and twisting the main more open. This makes it easier to quickly balance the boat and pop it up on a plane when sailing upwind in a breeze. RIG TENSION The tension of the rig is effected through shroud position and channel adjusters and tension of the jib halyard. It is measured off the 1/8″ sidestays with either the new Loos model PT-1 tension gauge or the older model A tension gauge. (These gauges are very helpful in tuning your Club 420.) While they are valuable in setting the tension close to that of other boats, they will only give relative tension numbers. We have found wide variances, even with new gauges. Take note of what we describe as the goal in setting the rig up with the proper tension. Remember, use the Loos gauge to get close to the specified tensions. If in doubt, use your gauge to measure the fastest boats and set your boat up accordingly! While sailing your Club 420 in club/junior racing, your rig tension should be varied from 240 lb. in light winds, to a maximum tension of 360 lb. in near survival conditions. (Again, note the chart at the end of the tuning guide.) When the rig is tensioned properly for upwind sailing, the leeward shroud just starts to go slack (definitely not “dangling”). For the collegiate sailors, since you are not able to adjust your shrouds, go ahead and read on. The best method to change your rig tension while on the water between races is to ease the jib halyard until the forestay is just taking all the load. This will allow the mast to fall back enough that it should be fairly easy to adjust the position on the leeward shroud. When completed, tack and do the other side. On some older boats it may be necessary to add an extender to the forestay to allow the rig to drop back enough to change the pin position. To pull the rig back forward, use the 3 to 1 purchase on the jib halyard, “bowstringing” the halyard above the purchase, then taking up the slack created with the 3 to 1 purchase. For lightweight crews or those low in strength, it may be difficult to change the rake and rig tension on the water. Some may find it helpful to tension the jib halyard through placing your feet on the bow while the crew tightens the halyard inside the boat. MAST BLOCKS Mast blocks are usually not supplied with the boat. Mast blocks are either wood or plastic spacers that are cut to fit into the mast partners in front of the mast. Placing mast blocks in the slot in heavy winds will help prevent the mast from overbending too much down low. In light winds mast blocks are not at all necessary. As the breeze builds, especially when more boomvang tension is applied, the mast will bow forward. If unrestricted it can bend too much below the spreaders. Overbending creates two major problems. First the jib luff will sag more which reduces your boat’s pointing ability and it will overpower the boat by making the jib too full. Secondly, overbending the mast down low will overflatten the main in this area and greatly reduce its drive and power. Ideally in windy condition where the boomvang is tensioned, mast blocks are placed in front of the mast in the partners to the point where they fill up the space less about 1/8″ to 1/4″. If there is the possibility of a capsize, be sure to use some type of retaining line or duct tape to hold your blocks in place. When sailing collegiate regattas, unless the entire fleet is fitted with mast blocks and their adjustment is specifically allowed, this tuning technique is not applicable. CENTERBOARD POSITION When sailing upwind the centerboard is usually in its maximum down position. In the near survival conditions when the boat is greatly overpowered, it is helpful to pull the board up as much as 2 or 3 inches to balance the helm and make the boat easier to steer. Downwind and on a reach with or without the spinnaker, the board should be positioned high enough so that the helm (whether the tiller “tugs” or “pushes”) is neutral. If the board is down too far and there is too much windward helm, the boat will tend to “trip” over the board and will not plane as fast. MAIN TOP BATTEN TENSION While the proper tension on the upper batten is not critical, it is important that the batten is neither too loose or too tight. Ideally the batten would be tensioned just until the vertical, perpendicular wrinkles to the pocket are just barely removed. Overtensioning the batten past this point will make the sail too full and the leech will be too closed. Undertensioning The batten in heavy winds will allow the batten to slide aft in the pocket and the leading edge will poke through the front of the pocket. MAIN HALYARD/CUNNINGHAM Tension on the luff of the main will affect the draft position and to a lesser extent the depth of your mainsail. A looser luff with wrinkles all the way from tack to head is necessary in lighter winds to allow the draft to move aft and flatten the entry of the main. In heavy winds tension the luff until the wrinkles are almost completely gone. This will help maintain the proper draft position. You can adjust the luff tension on your Club 420 main with either your main halyard or cunningham. If you expect to be sailing in a constant, relatively unchanging condition (is that ever possible?!), then it may be best to use the main halyard to tension the luff of the main. On the other hand, if the conditions are puffy yet still leave enough time to adjust the luff tension, you may want to initially set your main halyard so there are slight wrinkles all the way up and down. Then use your cunningham tension (through the grommet just above the tack), to fine tune the luff tension for the proper wrinkle and draft position. OUTHAUL Your North Club 420 mainsail does not require a great range of adjustment to be set properly. For lighter winds tension the outhaul until vertical wrinkles just disappear and the sail is smooth. As the breeze picks up and the boat becomes more overpowered progressively tension the outhaul. The foot tape on the bottom of the sail should be standing straight up from the boom in very windy, near survival conditions. Downwind if there is an opportunity to adjust the outhaul, ease it until the bottom of the sail is just smooth. Be conscious of overtensioning the outhaul in any conditions, as this will overflatten the bottom of the sail and depower the boat which harms the boats pointing capability. MAINSHEET TENSION Ideally the mainsheet should be tensioned so that the last 18″ of the top batten is set nearly parallel to the boom (sighted from underneath the boom looking up the sail vertically). Trimming the mainsheet harder will hook the top batten in relation to the boom which will proved the boat with short bursts of pointing ability at the expense of power and acceleration. Easing the sheets so that the top batten twists open (falls away) from parallel to the boom will compromise top end speed and pointing ability, but greatly increase the boat’s power to punch through waves and ability to accelerate out of a tack. The mainsheet will never just be cleated and left alone. It is one of the more critical adjustments on the boat. Play it constantly to allow the boat to point and power up and to sail with a balanced helm. BOOMVANG Downwind the boomvang is tensioned just enough so that the last 18″ of the top batten is nearly parallel to the boom. Be careful of overvanging in light winds and undervanging in heavy winds. Upwind in light winds, the vang needs to be loose enough so that the leech will twist open (upper batten angled outboard) to help the boat drive through waves and accelerate out of a tack. The vang should not be totally loose as this will compromise the boat’s speed and acceleration out of tacks. The vang should be set loose enough so that when the mainsheet is eased out the upper batten a good 15 to 20 degrees open from parallel to the boom, but no looser. As the breeze picks up, increase boomvang tension to help bend the mast and flatten the sail. At maximum boomvang tension there will be slight overbend wrinkles running from the mast toward the clew of the main. These should be just below the spreader and just barely evident in the heaviest of winds. In very heavy conditions, near survival, it may be advantageous to ease tension on the vang allowing the top of the main to twist way open reducing heeling moment. JIB SHEET TENSION On the Club 420 the jib leads are fairly far outboard which makes it necessary to use windward sheeting in light to medium winds to bring the lead closer to the centerline. The leeward sheet is trimmed in tight until there are slight creases from the tack to the clew. Trim the windward sheet hard enough so that the creases just barely disappear (approximately 1 1/2″ to 2″). In light to medium winds when trying to accelerate ease the leeward sheet and not the windward sheet. In breezy conditions do not use the windward sheet. (Note: Please see the chart at the end of this guide.) SPINNAKER TRIM Your North Club 420 spinnaker should be flown with 4″ to 8″ of curl in the windward luff at all times. An overtrimmed spinnaker will close the slot between the spinnaker and the main. It will not only make the boat sail much slower, but the spinnaker will also become more difficult to fly. Set your pole topping lift height so that it is roughly parallel to the horizon. In light winds it is necessary to lower the pole. In a breeze raising the pole will keep the 2 clews even. Set the pole position nearly perpendicular to the wind when sailing on a broad reach or a run. A telltale on the topping lift 1 ft. up from the pole will greatly aid in setting the proper angle of wind to pole position. Finally, ease your halyard off the top of the mast approximately 6″ to help open up the slot between the spinnaker and the upper sections of the main. WEIGHT PLACEMENT Upwind in very light winds the helmsman should sit just in front of the traveler with the crew placed just forward of the centerboard thwart. In medium winds the helmsman will move aft slightly just straddling the traveler. The crew will be anywhere from just behind the thwart to just forward of the helmsman. In a breeze the helmsman will move aft of the traveler. When on the trapeze, the crew will have his/her aft foot just forward of the helmsman’s body. When hiking the crew will be just forward of the helmsman and hopefully leaning aft and angled behind the helmsman. Remember to keep the weight centered so the boat maintains proper balance through chop. ** We want to thank Tyler Moore, multi-year collegiate All-American and past collegiate sailor of the year (and expert Club 420 sailor!) for his time, effort and input into the creation of this tuning guide.

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420 Sailboat: An In-depth Analysis

The 420 sailboat, a classic in the sailing world, is known for its versatility and performance. Loved by both beginners and seasoned sailors alike, this craft offers a unique sailing experience. In this comprehensive review, we will delve into its features, functionality, and overall value.

The History of the 420 Sailboat

The 420 sailboat has been a staple in the boating community since its creation in 1959. Designed by Christian Maury, this French-made dinghy has gained a reputation for being a top choice for youth training, high school and collegiate sailing, and even for competitive events. Over the decades, it has proven its worth and stood the test of time, making it a much-loved choice for many sailors.

Design and Construction

When it comes to design and construction, the 420 sailboat is nothing short of impressive. Its 4.2 meters of length coupled with a light hull weight of around 80 kg allows for easier transportation and storage. The boat's construction materials have evolved over time, with modern versions often featuring a durable fiberglass hull and an aluminum mast.

Sails and Rigging

The 420's sailplan consists of a mainsail, a jib, and a spinnaker. This configuration offers a balanced performance in various wind conditions, allowing sailors to efficiently manage and adjust sails as necessary.

Performance on Water

The 420 sailboat's performance is noteworthy, as it strikes a perfect balance between speed, stability, and maneuverability. Its responsiveness, combined with the simplicity of its handling, makes it an ideal boat for a wide range of skill levels.

Handling and Maneuverability

The 420's handling and maneuverability is where this vessel truly shines. Its lightweight design and efficient hull shape allow for quick tacking and gybing, while the adjustable rigging system enables sailors to modify the boat's performance according to changing conditions.

Comfort and Safety

Although primarily designed for competitive sailing, the 420 sailboat doesn't compromise on comfort and safety. The cockpit is spacious enough to accommodate two people comfortably, while the hull's robust construction and the boat's inherent stability offer peace of mind to the crew on board.

The 420 sailboat is truly a gem in the sailing world. With its enduring design, commendable performance, and solid build, it promises an enjoyable sailing experience. Whether you're a beginner looking for a reliable boat to learn on, or an experienced sailor seeking a versatile craft for competitive racing, the 420 sailboat certainly warrants consideration.

Price and Value

When it comes to value for money, the 420 sailboat stands tall among its competitors. While the initial investment may seem significant, its longevity, performance capabilities, and the enduring demand in the second-hand market make it a worthwhile investment for the serious sailor.

Initial Cost

The price of a new 420 sailboat can vary significantly depending on the manufacturer, equipment included, and the specific model. As of 2023, you can expect to pay anywhere between $8,000 to $12,000 for a new 420 sailboat.

Maintenance and Operating Costs

The 420 sailboat's maintenance costs are relatively low compared to other similar vessels. Due to its robust construction and simple design, regular cleaning and occasional rigging adjustments are generally all that's needed to keep a 420 in top shape. Additionally, being a small sailing dinghy, it doesn't incur mooring fees and its transportation costs are minimal.

Resale Value

One of the standout aspects of the 420 sailboat is its strong resale value. Given its popularity in sailing schools and racing events, there is always demand in the second-hand market. Well-maintained boats often retain a significant percentage of their original value, making the 420 a financially sound choice.

Final Thoughts

The 420 sailboat is a true classic that continues to hold its own in the contemporary sailing world. With its perfect balance of performance, durability, and value, it offers a versatile sailing solution for enthusiasts of all skill levels.

In conclusion, the 420 sailboat ticks all the right boxes for both recreational and competitive sailing. From its clever design and excellent performance to its safety features and overall value, it offers everything a sailor could ask for. For those in the market for a reliable, efficient, and enjoyable sailing vessel, the 420 sailboat is indeed a worthy contender.

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• 420 Sailboats: Exploring the Thrill of Dinghy Sailing

Sailing has been an adventurous and captivating water activity enjoyed by enthusiasts around the world for centuries. Among the various sailing boats, the 420 sailboat stands out as a popular choice for dinghy sailing. In this article, we will delve into the exciting world of 420 sailboats, understand what makes them unique, explore different sailing dinghy types, and discover the thrill of dinghy cruising. So, hoist the sails and let's embark on this thrilling journey!

What are 420 Sailboats?

1.1 the origins of the 420 sailboat.

The 420 sailboat originated in France in the late 1950s as a two-person dinghy designed for competitive racing. Its design was based on the popularity of the larger 470 sailboat and was intended to create a more accessible racing boat for young sailors.

1.2 Design and Characteristics

The 420 sailboat typically measures around 4.2 meters (13 feet 9 inches) in length, featuring a single trapeze, a mainsail, and a jib. The boat's hull is often made of fiberglass, ensuring durability and performance on the water.

1.3 Sailing Community and Competitions

Over the years, the 420 sailboat has garnered a strong global following, becoming one of the most popular dinghies for youth and amateur sailors. The boat's versatility allows both beginners and experienced sailors to enjoy thrilling competitions and hone their skills.

The Fascination of Dinghy Sailing

2.1 understanding dinghy sailing.

Dinghy sailing involves sailing small boats, often single-handedly or with a crew of one or two. It offers a more intimate connection with the water, providing sailors with an immersive experience of being one with the elements.

2.2 Advantages of Dinghy Sailing

Dinghy sailing offers several advantages, such as affordability, portability, and maneuverability. Sailors can easily transport and launch dinghies, allowing them to explore various water bodies and remote sailing destinations.

2.3 Challenges and Skills Required

While dinghy sailing is exhilarating, it requires a certain level of skill and adaptability. Sailors must learn to handle the boat in changing weather conditions and use their body weight to maintain stability.

Exploring Dinghy Cruising

3.1 escaping to serene waters.

Dinghy cruising offers a unique opportunity to explore secluded coves, tranquil lakes, and winding rivers. Sailors can escape the bustling city life and immerse themselves in the serenity of nature.

3.2 Navigating the Seas with Confidence

Before embarking on a dinghy cruise, sailors must acquaint themselves with navigation skills, weather patterns, and safety procedures. Proper planning and preparation are essential for a safe and enjoyable journey.

3.3 Preparing for a Dinghy Cruise

Preparing for a dinghy cruise involves packing essential supplies, inspecting the boat's condition, and ensuring all safety equipment is onboard. Additionally, sailors should inform someone about their sailing plans for added security.

Different Types of Sailing Dinghies

4.1 traditional sailing dinghies.

Traditional sailing dinghies often have classic designs and are cherished for their historical significance. They offer a nostalgic sailing experience, appealing to enthusiasts looking to reconnect with the past.

4.2 Modern Performance Dinghies

Modern performance dinghies, like the 420 sailboat, are designed for optimal speed and maneuverability. They are favored by competitive sailors and those seeking an adrenaline-fueled sailing experience.

4.3 Choosing the Right Dinghy for You

When selecting a sailing dinghy, consider your sailing goals, experience level, and preferred type of sailing. Consulting with experienced sailors or boat dealers can help you make an informed decision.

Unraveling the Mystery of Dinghies

5.1 defining a dinghy.

A dinghy is a small boat, often with a shallow draft, suitable for short trips near the shore or larger vessels. Dinghies serve various purposes, such as transportation between a yacht and the shore.

5.2 Brief History of Dinghies

Dinghies have a rich history, dating back to ancient times when they were used as lifeboats and for short excursions from larger ships. Their design and purpose have evolved over centuries.

5.3 The Role of Dinghies Today

In the modern era, dinghies continue to play a crucial role in recreational sailing, racing events, and as safety boats for larger vessels. Their versatility and ease of handling make them an essential part of the sailing community.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

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The versatility of the 420 sailboat, 6.1 thrilling racing experience.

The 420 sailboat offers an exhilarating racing experience, with its responsive design and competitive class association events worldwide. Sailing enthusiasts can participate in friendly regattas or challenging competitions.

6.2 Casual Sailing and Cruising

Beyond racing, the 420 sailboat is equally enjoyable for leisurely sailing and cruising. Its stable and forgiving nature makes it suitable for novices, families, and friends seeking quality time on the water.

6.3 Ideal for Novices and Experts Alike

The 420 sailboat strikes a perfect balance between beginner-friendly features and high-performance capabilities. Novice sailors can develop their skills with ease, while experienced sailors can explore advanced techniques.

420 Sailboat vs. Flying Junior Sailboat

7.1 a closer look at flying junior sailboat.

The Flying Junior (FJ) sailboat is another popular double-handed dinghy known for its competitive racing and sailing programs in schools and clubs worldwide.

7.2 Key Differences and Similarities

While the 420 sailboat and Flying Junior share similarities in terms of size and purpose, they have distinct design elements, which affect their handling and performance.

7.3 Choosing Between the Two

Choosing between the 420 sailboat and Flying Junior depends on individual preferences, training programs available, and desired sailing experience. Both boats offer thrilling adventures for sailors of all ages.

Yacht vs. Boat: Understanding the Distinction

8.1 what defines a yacht.

A yacht is a larger and more luxurious vessel, often used for recreational purposes, cruising, and leisure activities. Yachts are known for their opulence, amenities, and long-range capabilities.

8.2 How is a Boat Different?

Boats, including sailing dinghies like the 420, refer to smaller watercraft used for various purposes, such as sailing, fishing, transportation, and sports.

8.3 Determining the Right Vessel for Your Needs

Selecting between a yacht and a boat depends on factors such as budget, desired activities, number of passengers, and the kind of sailing experience you wish to have.

The Thrill of 420 Sailing Competitions

9.1 the competitive spirit.

420 sailing competitions are known for their competitive spirit and camaraderie among sailors. Participants challenge their skills and tactics to outperform their rivals.

9.2 International 420 Class Association (ICA)

The International 420 Class Association (ICA) is the governing body that organizes and regulates 420 sailing events worldwide, fostering a vibrant and inclusive sailing community.

9.3 Notable 420 Sailing Events

From local regattas to prestigious international championships, 420 sailors have the opportunity to participate in a wide range of events that cater to different skill levels and age groups.

Owning a 420 Sailboat: A Dream Come True

10.1 factors to consider before purchasing.

If you're considering owning a 420 sailboat, factors like budget, boat condition, and available storage space should be carefully evaluated to make the right investment.

10.2 Maintaining Your 420 Sailboat

Proper maintenance is essential for keeping your 420 sailboat in top-notch condition. Regular inspections, cleaning, and timely repairs contribute to its longevity and performance.

10.3 Cherishing the Sailing Memories

Owning a 420 sailboat is not just about the vessel itself but the unforgettable memories created on the water. Cherish the moments spent sailing, racing, and exploring new horizons.

420 sailboats have captivated sailors worldwide, offering a versatile and thrilling sailing experience. From competitive racing to leisurely cruising, the 420 sailboat has proven its mettle as a reliable and exciting dinghy. Whether you're an experienced sailor seeking a new challenge or a novice eager to learn the ropes, the 420 sailboat is ready to take you on a memorable adventure on the open waters.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

FAQs more about 420 sailboats

I am ready to help you with booking a boat for your dream vacation. contact me..

Denisa Kliner Nguyenová

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420 Class: Club, Collegiate = Win, Win

August 1, 2014 by Sail1Design Editor 1 Comment

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SAILORS Why to Sail a 420

© Nikos Drougkas

© Andrea Lelli

Are you thinking of sailing a 420? Here we tell you the best reasons to do it!

The 420 offers great development for sailors in the two-person disciplines – most of the World's top sailors sailed in this class and easily moved on to succeed in other classes, and enjoy Olympic and big boat careers

To learn your trade as a helm or crew it is best to do this in the 420, especially with the coaching structure and events available around the world. Some young sailors may never be big enough to sail a Laser Radial or other one-person international classes, or may take a longer time to grow, so getting into the two-person classes via the 420 makes sense to develop your skills and keep future options open.

Unlike Optimists, most boats you will sail in the future will have downwind sails. The 420 is an ideal platform for learning about tuning a boat and the consequences of tuning, teaching in a relatively simple way the trimming of sail combinations (i.e. main, jib, spinnaker together) like no other boat can. This is great for all your future sailing, not just two-person sailing.

The 420 is a stable boat to sail which planes upwind easily, the trend in modern yachting. It will teach you how to sail in an environment of partnership with your crewmate, adding another significant element to your development as a sailor (and as a person).

The 420 is a global class with great opportunities available to develop your sailing and compete at the highest level, making many friends from around the world along the way.

Now some people unfamiliar with two-person sailing may challenge your step into the 420 with some of these most frequently heard questions:

• “It’s a hassle to co-ordinate with another sailor” …only true if you have picked the wrong sailor to partner with. A committed sailor with a supportive family in fact make it easier as there are two of you offering support to move boats, move sailors, chaperone trips, etc.
• “It’s expensive” …sailing is an expensive sport, but you already know that. A good, top competitive, second hand 420 is relatively inexpensive, usually with lots of sails and gear. In fact, splitting the costs between two sailors makes 420 sailing quite similar in expense to a committed one-person campaign.
• “It makes it hard to go back to one-person sailing ” …completely untrue!!! Gaining experience in the 420 increases your sailing ability and means it is easy to switch across classes, whether you are a skipper or a crew. Top 420 sailors have jumped back into one-person boats and have generally been very successful as their sailing careers have developed.

Now you know the 420 will give you a unique experience during your youth sailing years. Don't hesitate and join the #420sailingfun now!

Source: www.420sailing.org.nz