yacht rigging rope

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Rope, rigging & deck gear: how to choose the right rope

• Toby Heppell
• April 12, 2021

Rope continues to develop every year. We take a look at the plethora of options on the market

Rope is one of the most important tools for the cruising sailor

There was a time when selecting the correct boat rope for a specific task was scarcely more complicated than choosing a larger diameter for higher loads.

Choose ropes according to their role to hit the right balance between price and performance

But as new materials have been developed – offering differing characteristics, woven in different ways, with or without a jacket – deciding on which rope is right for you can be something of a minefield.

Typically, the better a rope performs in any number of areas, the higher the price tag, so for most sailors there is something of a cost-benefit analysis to be made when deciding which product to buy.

It is wise to ask yourself what specific improvement you are paying for and whether, ultimately, it is worth the additional expense.

It is also worth noting that, though we tend to equate cheaper with lower performance, that is not always the case.

Sometimes picking up a more expensive rope assuming it will behave better due to the higher price tag can leave you 
with an inferior product for a specific task.

On the other hand, due to the cost price of the materials they use, manufacturers don’t tend to vary hugely in terms of outright price charged for a given product.

As such, if you manage to find a rope that is significantly cheaper than everyone else online, it is worth being fairly cautious.

Rope is our most important tool and for most cruising sailors, a knowledge 
of the basic types established half a century ago has been enough to get by.

Traditionally, we’ve accepted what manufacturers or riggers gave us, perhaps made a decision about nylon rather than polyester for the anchor, and that’s been the end of the matter.

But progress in the past decade or so has been meteoric, driven largely by race boats. Some of these developments lie beyond the needs of cruisers, but the critical elements are right up our alley.

What’s changed and why

We’re now relatively used to seeing the term ‘high-modulus’ in reference to ropes.

English Braids’ R5 is made with yarn sourced from recycled plastic

These have been used at the highest end of sailing for well over 20 years, though until relatively recently were only available at eye-watering prices.

The term ‘high-modulus’ refers to Young’s Modulus of Elasticity.

The higher the value of this figure, 
the less a rope will stretch.

As it happens, most high-modulus ropes are also exceedingly strong – at least equivalent to wire – and can withstand far more load than any ropes previously.

Not only are these ropes unbelievably strong and light, they also repel water, so won’t get heavier when wet.

The same may not apply to the cover, depending on what this is made of.

The essentials remain the same as they have for a generation, though, with the high-modulus option best seen as an important bolt-on.

Polyester three-strand rope

Once the mainstay of yacht ropes, 
three-strand polyester is now largely used for shorelines.

Stretch is relatively low, price is not too steep and abrasion resistance is reasonable, so if that’s 
how you like your shorelines, it’ll do nicely.

Octo-plait gives plenty of flexibility

If you prefer more flexibility, try polyester multi-plait or ‘octo-plait.’ It seems to resist chafe better than three-strand, and if one strand does wear through, there are another seven to go.

Polypropylene three-strand rope

This is a cheap and not-too-cheerful option for shorelines.

It chafes easily, is degraded rapidly by sunlight and isn’t 
as strong as other rope variants.

Where polypropylene excels is in 
its ability to float.

As long as you 
have bought the best you can find (the really cheap line won’t coil at all), it will make a great heaving line as it isn’t too heavy to throw and won’t sink into your propeller.

Nylon, whether three-strand or multi-plait, is the strongest of the non-hi-tech ropes and is set aside from the others by its remarkably low elastic modulus.

This means that if it takes a snatch load, it will elongate rather than break, making it the top choice for anchor rodes and snubbers ever since it was invented.

For shorelines, many prefer polyester or really meaty polyprop because, the argument goes, you don’t want them stretching to leave the boat hanging off the dock.

Marlow’s classic braid-on-braid is very popular

However, nylon can be a better option because it soaks up any snatching and, so long as you’ve bought nylon that’s big enough for your boat, stretch won’t be an issue.

Nylon is also a very good option for gybe preventers. The less a preventer stretches, 
the more likely it is to damage the boom in a crash gybe .

Nylon has long been the default rope for all running rigging in cruising yachts.

Something with a bit of give is ideal for mooring

It might be ‘braid-on-braid’, with similar outer and inner 
parts, as sold by most manufacturers, 
or it could be a low-stretch polyester braidline (LSP) with a loosely laid 
three-strand core, such as Marlowbraid.

The stretch reduction of this can be as much as 40 per cent, which is well worth the extra you’ll pay.

Much of the braid-on-braid now sold is pre-stretched at the factory, which creates rope that’s an improvement on non pre-stretched lines, but it’s not as good as LSP, so is less than ideal for halyards on all but the smallest yachts.

With respectable strength, easy splicing and good price, braid-on-braid is the logical option for working sheets, kicker tackle, pole guys and the like.

It starts off soft to handle, but it can stiffen up over the years until the friction it creates passing round a block becomes so heavy that the boat’s winches are inadequate.

It also chafes relatively easily and it stretches a lot compared with more modern alternatives.

Buy Marlow Rope’s doublebraid rope on Amazon (UK)

Buy Kingfisher Braid on braid from Force 4

Buy Liros braid on braid from Force 4

Note: We may make a small commission on purchases made via the links on this feature. In no way does that affect our editorial independence.

Cores and modern rope.

Modern ropes are made of two components – a core that accounts for up to 95% of the rope’s strength, plus a protective outer cover (or jacket) that provides abrasion resistance, protection from sunlight and, where appropriate, improved holding in a clutch, jammer or cleat.

The cover can also be designed for better handling comfort.

Without a protective outer layer, modern rope will deteriorate in UV light

On racing boats this will 
usually be sacrificed in favour of a performance benefit, be it holding capability or resistance, but for the cruising sailor, striking a balance between performance and comfort 
is a key concern.

Broadly speaking, when talking 
about modern ropes, there are four or five major fibres involved – primarily Dyneema, Technora, Kevlar and polyester.

Until recently, Vectran 
was also used frequently, but its low resistance to ultra-violet light means there are now better fibres on the market.

These materials are blended together in different ways to produce both cores and covers that are optimised for each function on the boat.

Dyneema focus

Dyneema is perhaps the most important fibre currently used to manufacture ropes and is a proprietary brand name 
of DSM, which developed and sells it.

As such, brands selling Dyneema products will almost always feature the Dyneema name and/or trademark.

Dyneema is not the be all and end all of ropes but it does cover most areas and is a reliable purchase thanks to the above reasons.

All of the ‘big four’ manufacturers working in the UK – English Braids, Kingfisher, Liros, and Marlow – feature Dyneema in their performance products.

Dyneema comes in a variety of types and strengths

Dyneema lines come in different types too.

So simply specifying a Dyneema line of an appropriate size is not sufficient. Dyneema sells four different types of fibre for the marine sector: SK75, 78, 90 and 99.

SK75 has been around a while and combines strength with lightweight.

SK78 is a higher-end product with lower creep (permanent long-term elongation that arises from extended periods under load), while Dyneema SK90 has more strength, but with slightly more creep.

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In recent years Dyneema SK99 has 
been making significant inroads into 
the racing world and is now used by all major manufacturers.

SK99 has become one of the class leaders in the rope rigging field and offers a breaking load 
of almost a tonne in 3mm rope!

For most cruising sailors, however, 
the latter would be overkill, says Nigel Saddington of Kingfisher Rope.

‘I would say that 78 has superseded 75 and 99 has superseded 90 right now. But even then, to be honest, for most sailors and in most circumstances, I would say 78 
is sufficient for almost all needs.’

Buy Marlow Excel Fusion Rope – SK75 Dyneema core – from Force 4

Buy Liros Magic Edge Rope – SK75 Dyneema – from Force 4

Effect on deck fittings

Nigel points to some concerns he has with the very top end of the Dyneema ropes being produced.

He notes that as 
a commercial product, its strength and stiffness are the qualities that make it a good rope but also make it a rope to be used with care.

This is because the loads that can be carried, even in a relatively small-diameter line, are high enough to warrant extra consideration 
with regards to which clutches and sails it is being used with.

Though super-strong modern ropes are ideal on race boats, their deck gear is set up to handle loads it will be working under

This is a theme that seems to pop-up time and again in recent years; as modern materials become stronger, so the rest of the kit on board needs 
to be up-spec’d in order to keep up.

Though it is impressive how much load can be carried by the highest-performing ropes, in relatively small diameters you still need something wide enough for your clutch to hold, and you will also want to ensure that your deck gear is rated high enough to deal with the loads.

Saving a halyard at the cost 
of losing a clutch might not be such a good idea.

That basic core of modern ropes 
isn’t the only area where there have 
been developments, however.

Here, a Dyneema mix is a popular option which has the benefit of being extremely light and, perhaps because it floats, is as resistant to water as the Dyneema inside – great for lightweight spinnaker sheets that stay light even after they’ve been dunked a few times.

The downside is that it doesn’t last very long because of the vulnerability of polypropylene
to UV degradation.

The ‘entry-level’ coat is polyester 
of similar specification to the standard braid-on-braid most of us use.

This is relatively loosely woven, making for easy splicing.

Although 
the resulting rope’s performance is streets ahead of its braid-on-braid equivalent, it is prone to chafe and is more likely to slip around the core.

In other words, 
the clutch catches the cover but the 
core can slide through until equilibrium is reached.

Many modern fibres do not melt, making them fray easily when cut

Next up the scale comes Technora, 
a para-aramid fibre woven far more tightly.

A coat of this is a little more expensive than a basic polyester cover, but the improvement in performance and chafe-resistance is huge.

If your halyards are wearing through and need replacing, it’s a no-brainer.

Finally, if you want to see your ropes in the dark, you can specify a cover that has a light-positive strand.

This works on the same principle as those garden lights that soak up power by day then illuminate when it’s dark.

The rope won’t dazzle you, but you’ll certainly appreciate being able to see it so easily 
at night.

What ropes to use in running rigging

On most cruisers, sheets and other ropes that are constantly adjusted and not under tremendous load can sensibly be braid-on-braid for economy, ease of splicing and soft feel.

Lines that are set up tightly then left are a different story, however.

On a boat with pretensions to performance, high-modulus ropes can make a dramatic difference.

A clutch needs to be closely matched with a rope’s breaking strain and diameter

Reef pennants are a case in point.

A Dyneema pennant can be a size or 
two smaller than the standard braidline item, yet will be just as strong and will stay tight once set up.

Main halyards should definitely be made out of some variety of Dyneema, ideally with a Technora coat or its equivalent.

Wire halyards are a thing 
of the past now, particularly when rope can cope with almost the same loads 
for its size, with few of the drawbacks.

Headsail halyards should also 
ideally be top-quality rope, but on roller forestays it can be easier to maintain luff tension than on a mainsail.

So, if funds are tight, upgrade the main halyard first and see how you get on.

Creep stretch and elasticity definitions

Initial loading will result in elastic extension.

This happens upon loading and is immediately recoverable upon release of the load (elastic contraction).

After the elastic extension 
of the initial loading, the rope 
will experience what is known 
as viscoelastic extension.

This is further extension over time and is fairly limited.

It’s not a question of ‘best’ or ‘cheapest’, but buying rope with the right properties for the task

Unlike elastic stretch, viscoelastic stretch will only recover slowly over time once the load is released.

Finally there is creep, which is permanent, non-recoverable and time-dependent.

Creep occurs at the yarn molecular level when the rope is under constant load.

Once the load is released 
and elastic and viscoelastic extension recovered, the rope will ultimately have experienced an element of permanent extension.

This is a factor of 
both creep and ‘bedding in’, which is when individual fibre components in the rope and/or splice settle into their preferred position when under load.

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The Ultimate Guide to Sailboat Rigging Rope

What is sailboat rigging rope?

Sailboat rigging rope is the lifeline of a sailboat , connecting the sails to the mast and allowing the boat to harness the power of the wind.

Essentially, it is a specialized type of rope that is designed to withstand the forces and stresses encountered while sailing.

Why is a rope called a line on a boat?

In nautical terms, a line refers to a rope that has a specific purpose or is used for a particular function.

For example, a halyard line is used to hoist a sail, while a sheet line controls the position of the sail.

By using the word “line” instead of “rope,” sailors were able to clearly communicate their intentions and actions on a boat.

What ropes are used for ship rigging?

When it comes to sailboat rigging ropes, there are a variety of types available, each with its own unique characteristics and applications.

Let’s explore some of the most common types and their uses.

Polyester ropes.

Polyester ropes are popular for their durability, strength, and resistance to UV rays and saltwater corrosion. They are suitable for a wide range of applications, from halyards and sheets to control lines and running rigging.

Dyneema ropes

Dyneema ropes, also known as high-performance ropes, are incredibly strong and lightweight. They are perfect for high-load applications such as rigging and running backstays, where strength and low stretch are crucial.

Sta-Set ropes

Sta-Set ropes are made from polyester and are known for their flexibility and ease of handling. They are commonly used for general-purpose applications like halyards, sheets, and control lines.

Wire ropes, made from stainless steel, provide excellent strength and resistance to abrasion. They are commonly used for standing rigging , such as shrouds and stays, where stiffness and stability are required.

Vectran ropes

Vectran ropes offer high strength and low stretch properties, making them suitable for applications that require minimal elongation, such as halyards and control lines.

• Boat Rigging: Everything You Need to Know
• Line or Rope of Your Boats (explained)
• Choosing The Right Mooring Lines Or Dock Lines For Your Boat
• What’s the Difference Between a Spring line, a Breast line, and a Dock Line?

Which type of rope used in rigging is the strongest?

• One of the strongest types of rope used in rigging is Dyneema.

This high-performance rope is incredibly strong and lightweight, making it perfect for high-load applications. Its low stretch characteristics also contribute to its strength, ensuring minimal elongation under heavy loads.

• Stainless steel wire ropes are also known for their exceptional strength.

Made from corrosion-resistant stainless steel, these ropes provide excellent tensile strength and resistance to abrasion.

What are the three ropes on a boat?

On a sailboat, three primary ropes play essential roles in controlling and maneuvering the boat.

The first rope is called the halyard, and it is used to raise and lower the sails.

The halyard connects to the top of the sail and allows you to adjust its position and tension. Common options for Halyard include polyester, nylon, and dyneema.

The second rope is known as the sheet. Sheets are used to control the angle and position of the sails in relation to the wind.

There are typically separate sheets for the main sail and jib or genoa. By adjusting the tension and angle of the sheets, you can optimize the sail’s performance and power.

Common options for sheets include polyester, nylon, and blended ropes.

Control line

The third rope is the control line.

Control lines are used for various purposes, such as adjusting the shape of the sails, controlling the boom, or operating the boat’s various systems.

They are typically found on larger boats with more complex rigging setups.

Generally, control lines need to be strong and durable, with good grip and flexibility. Common options include polyester, nylon, and braided ropes.

How do i choose a rigging rope?

Here is a step-by-step guide to help you make an informed decision:

1. Assess your sailing needs

Consider the size of your boat, the sailing conditions you typically encounter, and your rigging setup. This will help you determine the strength and durability requirements for your rigging rope .

2. Research different rope materials

Look into the characteristics and benefits of materials like polyester, Dyneema, and stainless steel. Understand how each material performs in terms of strength, UV resistance, and corrosion resistance.

3. Determine the appropriate size

Based on your boat size and rigging setup, identify the ideal thickness and strength of rope needed. Larger boats and high-performance rigs will generally require thicker and stronger ropes, while smaller boats may benefit from lighter options.

4. Consider flexibility and handling

Ensure that the rope you choose is easy to work with and provides a good grip. It should be flexible enough to maneuver but not overly stretchy.

5. Consult with experts

If you’re unsure about any aspect of choosing a rigging rope, don’t hesitate to seek advice from professionals or experienced sailors. They can provide valuable insights and help you make the best decision for your specific needs.

What size rope do i need for my boat?

The size of the rope you need will depend on the size of your boat, the specific rigging setup, and the intended use of the rope.

For example a 20 foot sailboat , you would typically need a halyard rope that is around 5/16 to 3/8 inches in diameter. The length of the rope should be long enough to reach from the masthead to the cockpit, allowing for proper hoisting and trimming of the sails.

Generally, a sheet rope with a diameter of 5/16 inch or 3/8 inch should suffice for most sailboats. As a general guideline, the length of the rope should be at least twice the length of your boat. This will allow for proper handling and maneuvering of the sail.

Why is a line called a sheet?

The term “sheet” likely comes from the old English word “sceata,” which means corner or border. The ropes were called sheets because they controlled the corners or edges of the sail.

Over time, the term “sheet” became associated with any rope that controls the position or angle of a sail.

How long should boat lines be?

Boat lines are ropes used for various purposes, such as docking, anchoring, and securing the boat.

A general guideline is to ensure that boat lines are at least 2-3 times the length of your boat. This will provide enough length to handle different docking scenarios and ensure the safety of your vessel.

It’s also a good idea to have a variety of lengths available to accommodate different situations.

Common Problems and Solutions for Sailboat Rigging Ropes

Here are some common problems you may encounter with sailboat rigging ropes and their troubleshooting solutions:

1. Fraying or wear

If you notice any signs of fraying, it’s important to replace the rope immediately to avoid accidents. Regularly inspect your ropes for wear and tear and replace them as needed.

2. Tangling or kinking

To prevent tangling or kinking, always store your rigging ropes neatly coiled and avoid knots or tangles. If your rope becomes tangled, carefully untangle it to restore its proper function.

3. Stiffness or difficulty in maneuvering

If your rope becomes stiff or difficult to maneuver, it may need lubrication. Apply a suitable lubricant to the moving parts of the rope to restore smooth operation.

4. Slippage

If your rope slips or loses tension, you may need to adjust the knot or connection. Ensure that all knots are properly tied and secure, and adjust the tension as needed.

5. Corrosion or rust

Stainless steel wire ropes are resistant to corrosion, but they can still develop rust over time. Regularly inspect your stainless steel ropes for any signs of rust and replace them if necessary.

6. Overloading

Avoid overloading your ropes beyond their recommended weight limits. Be aware of the maximum load capacity of your ropes and use appropriate ropes for heavier loads.

Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Published by rigworks on november 19, 2019.

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me?

From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’…

Forestay (1 or HS) – The forestay, or headstay, connects the mast to the front (bow) of the boat and keeps your mast from falling aft.

• Your forestay can be full length (masthead to deck) or fractional (1/8 to 1/4 from the top of the mast to the deck).
• Inner forestays, including staysail stays, solent stays and baby stays, connect to the mast below the main forestay and to the deck aft of the main forestay. Inner forestays allow you to hoist small inner headsails and/or provide additional stability to your rig.

Backstay (2 or BS) – The backstay runs from the mast to the back of the boat (transom) and is often adjustable to control forestay tension and the shape of the sails.

• A backstay can be either continuous (direct from mast to transom) or it may split in the lower section (7) with “legs” that ‘V’ out to the edges of the transom.
• Backstays often have hydraulic or manual tensioners built into them to increase forestay tension and bend the mast, which flattens your mainsail.
• Running backstays can be removable, adjustable, and provide additional support and tuning usually on fractional rigs. They run to the outer edges of the transom and are adjusted with each tack. The windward running back is in tension and the leeward is eased so as not to interfere with the boom and sails.
• Checkstays, useful on fractional rigs with bendy masts, are attached well below the backstay and provide aft tension to the mid panels of the mast to reduce mast bend and provide stabilization to reduce the mast from pumping.

Shrouds – Shrouds support the mast from side to side. Shrouds are either continuous or discontinuous .

Continuous rigging, common in production sailboats, means that each shroud (except the lowers) is a continuous piece of material that connects to the mast at some point, passes through the spreaders without terminating, and continues to the deck. There may be a number of continuous shrouds on your boat ( see Figure 1 ).

• Cap shrouds (3) , sometimes called uppers, extend from masthead to the chainplates at the deck.
• Intermediate shrouds (4) extend from mid-mast panel to deck.
• Lower shrouds extend from below the spreader-base to the chainplates. Fore- (5) and Aft-Lowers (6) connect to the deck either forward or aft of the cap shroud.

Discontinuous rigging, common on high performance sailboats, is a series of shorter lengths that terminate in tip cups at each spreader. The diameter of the wire/rod can be reduced in the upper sections where loads are lighter, reducing overall weight. These independent sections are referred to as V# and D# ( see Figure 2 ). For example, V1 is the lowest vertical shroud that extends from the deck to the outer tip of the first spreader. D1 is the lowest diagonal shroud that extends from the deck to the mast at the base of the first spreader. The highest section that extends from the upper spreader to the mast head may be labeled either V# or D#.

A sailboat’s standing rigging is generally built from wire rope, rod, or occasionally a super-strong synthetic fibered rope such as Dyneema ® , carbon fiber, kevlar or PBO.

• 1×19 316 grade stainless steel Wire Rope (1 group of 19 wires, very stiff with low stretch) is standard on most sailboats. Wire rope is sized/priced by its diameter which varies from boat to boat, 3/16” through 1/2″ being the most common range.
• 1×19 Compact Strand or Dyform wire, a more expensive alternative, is used to increase strength, reduce stretch, and minimize diameter on high performance boats such as catamarans. It is also the best alternative when replacing rod with wire.
• Rod rigging offers lower stretch, longer life expectancy, and higher breaking strength than wire. Unlike wire rope, rod is defined by its breaking strength, usually ranging from -10 to -40 (approx. 10k to 40k breaking strength), rather than diameter. So, for example, we refer to 7/16” wire (diameter) vs. -10 Rod (breaking strength).
• Composite Rigging is a popular option for racing boats. It offers comparable breaking strengths to wire and rod with a significant reduction in weight and often lower stretch.

Are your eyes crossing yet? This is probably enough for now, but stay tuned for our next ‘Ask the Rigger’. We will continue this discussion with some of the fittings/connections/hardware associated with your standing rigging.

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Boat Ropes & Rigging

Whether you’re renewing your entire boat rigging or replacing ropes for safety, comfort or better colour-coding, we have miles of the finest quality lines in stock and ready to ship, including dinghy ropes , fender ropes , yacht ropes and docklines and mooring ropes . Our inventory includes synthetic and natural boat ropes in all sizes and materials from top brands like Marlow and Seago. Complete your selection with essential rope accessories like hot knives  and  rope cutters .

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• Boat Rigging: Setting Sail for Success

In the world of sailing, boat rigging plays a crucial role in ensuring the safety, efficiency, and performance of your vessel. From standing rigging to sail rigging types, it's essential to understand the intricacies of rigging a yacht to embark on smooth sailing adventures. In this comprehensive guide, we'll dive into the nuances of boat rigging, helping you navigate the open waters with confidence.

Boat Rigging Basics

Before we delve into the details, let's start with the fundamentals of boat rigging. Understanding the key components and their functions is essential for any sailor, whether you're a novice or a seasoned pro.

Standing Rigging

Standing rigging refers to the fixed support structure of a boat's mast, including wires, cables, and rods. It plays a critical role in maintaining the mast's vertical position and overall stability.

Sail Rigging Types

Sail rigging is not a one-size-fits-all concept, but rather a diverse world with various types and configurations to suit different sailing needs. Understanding these rigging types is essential for any sailor looking to optimize their boat's performance and safety. 

Ship Riggings

Ship riggings have played a pivotal role in shaping the history of seafaring and maritime exploration. These complex systems of ropes, wires, and sails have been integral to the functionality and success of various vessels throughout the ages.Explore the significance of ship riggings, their evolution, and their influence on modern-day boat rigging.

Read more useful sailing tips:

Materials matter.

The choice of materials for your boat rigging is a decision that can't be taken lightly. Two popular options, Dyneema and Kevlar, offer distinct advantages.

Dyneema Rigging

Dyneema rigging represents a breakthrough in the world of sailboat rigging. This cutting-edge material, known for its remarkable strength and low stretch properties, has revolutionized the way sailors experience the open water. Often referred to as the ultimate innovation in the world of sailing, Dyneema rigging offers a myriad of advantages: 

• Exceptional Strength: Dyneema rigging boasts remarkable strength-to-weight ratio, making it incredibly robust and reliable even in demanding conditions. 
• Low Stretch: Dyneema has minimal stretch, which translates to improved sail control and responsiveness, ensuring better performance.
• Lightweight: It's significantly lighter than traditional rigging materials like steel, reducing the overall weight of your vessel and enhancing speed and maneuverability.
• Low Maintenance: Dyneema rigging requires minimal maintenance, offering sailors peace of mind and more time on the water.
• Resistance to Corrosion: Unlike metal rigging, Dyneema is not susceptible to corrosion, ensuring a longer lifespan and durability.
• UV Resistance: Dyneema is highly resistant to UV rays, making it ideal for prolonged exposure to sunlight.
• Easy Handling: Its flexibility and ease of handling simplify rigging installation and adjustments.
• Enhanced Safety: Dyneema's strength and reliability contribute to safer sailing experiences, reducing the risk of rigging failure.
• Versatility: It's suitable for a wide range of applications, from standing rigging to halyards, making it a versatile choice for sailors.
• Eco-Friendly: Dyneema is an environmentally friendly option as it doesn't release harmful substances into the water, contributing to a cleaner marine ecosystem.

Dyneema vs. Kevlar

Weigh the pros and cons of Dyneema and Kevlar to determine which suits your sailing needs best:

Dyneema Rigging:

• Exceptional Strength: Dyneema boasts impressive strength, making it highly reliable for rigging purposes.
• Low Stretch: It has minimal stretch, enhancing sail control and overall performance.
• Lightweight: Dyneema is significantly lighter than traditional materials, reducing the vessel's weight.
• Low Maintenance: Requires minimal upkeep, saving time and effort.
• Corrosion Resistance: Dyneema is not susceptible to corrosion, ensuring durability.
• UV Resistance: It's highly resistant to UV rays, making it suitable for extended exposure to sunlight.
• Safety: Dyneema's strength and reliability contribute to safer sailing experiences.
• Versatility: Suitable for various rigging applications, from standing rigging to halyards.
• Cost: Dyneema can be more expensive than some traditional materials, initially.
• Abrasion Resistance: It may be less resistant to abrasion compared to Kevlar.

Kevlar Rigging:

• Excellent Abrasion Resistance: Kevlar is highly resistant to wear and tear, ensuring longevity.
• High Tensile Strength: It offers impressive tensile strength, making it suitable for demanding applications.
• Stiffness: Kevlar is stiffer than Dyneema, which can be advantageous for some rigging configurations.
• Heavy: Kevlar is heavier than Dyneema, potentially impacting vessel performance.
• Low UV Resistance: It is less resistant to UV radiation, which can affect its durability over time.
• Higher Stretch: Kevlar tends to stretch more than Dyneema, which can impact sail control.
• Prone to Corrosion: Unlike Dyneema, Kevlar can be susceptible to corrosion.
• Cost: It can be expensive, and the initial investment may be higher than other materials.

Choosing between Dyneema and Kevlar depends on your specific sailing needs and priorities. Dyneema is favored for its strength, low stretch, and light weight, while Kevlar excels in abrasion resistance and tensile strength. Consider these factors when making your rigging material selection.

Stainless Steel Yacht Rigging

When it comes to yacht rigging, durability is paramount, and stainless steel rigging wires stand out as a top choice. Their robust nature, coupled with an unmistakable touch of elegance, makes them an ideal option for discerning sailors. Stainless steel yacht rigging is highly resistant to corrosion, even in the harsh marine environment. This resistance not only ensures a longer lifespan but also reduces maintenance efforts, allowing you to spend more time on the water. Additionally, the sleek appearance of stainless steel adds a touch of sophistication to your vessel. Whether you're cruising the open seas or participating in regattas, stainless steel yacht rigging combines style and substance to offer a premium sailing experience.

Spectra Standing Rigging

Spectra standing rigging is a game-changer for sailors seeking top-tier performance and durability. This advanced material, known for its incredible strength and low stretch properties, has revolutionized the way we approach standing rigging. Spectra rigging offers advantages that are hard to beat – it enhances the stability and safety of your vessel while providing exceptional responsiveness. The minimal stretch ensures precise sail control, making it the go-to choice for those who demand the utmost from their rigging. If you're looking to take your sailing experience to the next level, Spectra standing rigging is a choice that can't be ignored.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our  Magazine.

Rigging a Yacht: A Step-By-Step Guide

Now that you've grasped the basics and material options, let's dive into the practical aspect of rigging a yacht. Follow these steps to ensure a smooth and safe sailing experience.

Planning and Preparation

Rigging a yacht is a meticulous process that requires careful planning and thorough preparation. Before embarking on your sailing adventure, it's crucial to ensure that every aspect of your yacht's rigging is in top-notch condition. The advantages of this step-by-step guide are manifold. It guarantees the safety of both the vessel and its passengers, reduces the risk of mid-sail complications, and ultimately enhances your overall sailing experience. By meticulously inspecting your rigging and addressing any issues during the planning and preparation phase, you can set sail with confidence, knowing that your yacht is ready to navigate the open waters seamlessly.

Inspecting Your Rigging

Rigging a yacht is a meticulous process that demands careful attention to detail. One crucial aspect is inspecting your rigging. This step ensures the safety and efficiency of your sailing adventure. Regular inspections , even before you set sail, can identify potential issues and help prevent mishaps on the water . Inspecting your rigging is not only a safety measure but also a way to guarantee that your yacht performs at its best, allowing you to enjoy smooth and stress-free sailing experiences.

Rigging Replacement

When it comes to maintaining your yacht's rigging, the necessity of rigging replacement cannot be overstated. Whether due to wear and tear or a desire to upgrade to modern materials, knowing when and how to replace your rigging is crucial.

Specialized Rigs for Small Sailboats

For small sailboat enthusiasts , specialized rigs can enhance your sailing experience. Explore the options available for these nimble vessels.

Ship Rigging Terms

Sailboat rigging comes with its unique terminology. Get acquainted with the essential terms: 

• Mast: The vertical spar or structure that supports sails and rigging.
• Boom: A horizontal spar that extends from the mast to support the bottom of a sail.
• Shroud: Rigging wires that support the mast from the sides.
• Stay: Rigging wires that support the mast from the front or back.
• Halyard: Lines used to raise and lower sails.
• Sheet: Lines used to control the angle of the sails with respect to the wind.
• Jib: A triangular foresail set in front of the mast.
• Tack: The lower forward corner of a sail.
• Clew: The lower after corner of a sail.
• Topping Lift: A line that supports the boom when the sail is not in use.

Understanding these ship rigging terms is essential for efficient and safe sailing, allowing you to communicate effectively with your crew and navigate the open waters with confidence.

Sailboat Stays and Shrouds

Sailboat rigging comprises various components, and among the most critical are sailboat stays and shrouds. Stays are the fixed support cables or wires that keep the mast upright, while shrouds add lateral support, preventing the mast from swaying. These components work together to maintain the mast's stability and ensure safe and efficient sailing. The proper tension and alignment of stays and shrouds are crucial for the overall performance and safety of a sailboat. Regular inspections and maintenance of these rigging elements are essential to prevent wear and tear, making sure they remain reliable on your sailing adventures. Understanding the role of sailboat stays and shrouds is fundamental for any sailor, whether you're navigating coastal waters or crossing the open sea.

In conclusion, boat rigging is a multifaceted subject that greatly influences your sailing experience. Understanding the fundamentals, material choices, and the process of rigging a yacht is essential for a successful voyage.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our  range of charter boats  and head to some of our favourite  sailing  destinations .

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Polypropylene Floating Rope

An ideal rope for rescue that is lightweight , floats on water  and has excellent visibility. Great for attaching to bouys and works perfectly as a painter line for dinghies. Check out our floating rope range for more.

3 Strand Polyester Multipurpose Rope

3-Strand Polyester that is used for multipurpose activities. The rope is available in white, navy or black.

Yacht Master / Yacht Braid

This rope is an easy-to-splice, conventional Polyester Yacht Braid with a loose construction that’s great for riggers. 

• Easy splicing
• High tenacity and abrasion resistance
• High resistivity to UV and most chemicals

3 Strand Nylon Multipurpose Rope

3-Strand Nylon Rope that is used for multipurpose activities. The rope is available in white, navy or black.

SuperSpeed – Yachting Rope

The latest performance rope from Southern Ropes, a coated 12-strand Stealth Fibre® core with HT Polyester cover. Performance rope perfect for sailing applications where ultra-low stretch and low weight is needed.

SuperBraid – Yachting Rope

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The Access Ropes Guide to: Yacht Rope

What is yacht rope?

Broadly speaking, yacht rope is any rope that is used on large sailing boats. However, there are several different types of yacht rope, each of which has its own particular purpose.

Access Ropes stock a range of lines to meet your sailing needs. We are available to answer any queries you may have on the type of rope you need and can provide bespoke yacht rope if required. All our products also ship with certification (and free delivery in the UK), so you can rest assured that your rope will meet all the necessary quality standards.

Contact us today!

What are the different categories of yacht rope?

There are many variances of yacht ropes; however, the most common categories you will come across are rigging lines and mooring lines.

Rigging lines

Running rigging ropes are those which are used to adjust and control the yacht sails. They determine the shape and position of your sail, and comprise of halyards, downhauls and sheets. Halyards pull up the mainsail, and downhauls lower it, while sheets control the individual sails when you are sailing. Most commonly, you will hear the terms mainsheet, which is the line that controls the mainsail, and jib sheet, which controls the jib sail.

Standing rigging rope is the rope that offers stability to stationary objects such as the mast. These are referred to as stays. Either the forestay or the backstay, depending on whether the rope runs from the mast to the front or back of the boat.

We now stock the  SuperBraid Yachting Rope , which is the latest performance rope from Southern Ropes and can be used for sheet lines, halyards, control lines, downhauls and numerous other applications. This product gives you the strength of  UHMWPE rope  in its core, with a Polyester cover, making it soft and light to handle, yet incredibly strong. It is not pre-stretched and heat set.

If you need a line with a little more stretch, but with all the performance of the  SuperBraid , then the  SuperSpeed Yachting rope  is a great alternative which is pre-stretched and heat set. Both ropes are easy to splice and come in diameters from 6mm – 16mm.

For the non-professional sailor, the  Polyester Yacht Braid  is ideal for leisure marine yachts. It is easy to handle, easy to splice and low stretch. This is a relatively multi-purpose polyester rope that works for general sheets and control lines.

If you are considering buying new boat ropes, then spend time checking the compatibility with your deck gear as some jaws and clutches are designed to suit only specific lines.

Mooring lines

Mooring lines  or anchor lines are, as the name suggests, ropes used to moor your yacht. They will tie your boat to a pontoon and may also be referred to as dock lines. Fender lines are also used during mooring; they prevent a boat from continuously moving and hitting the dock, which could result in damage to your vessel.

Instead of the traditional hemp rope, most mooring rope is now made of  nylon ,  polyester  or  UHMWPE . Some rope has a combination of these fibres to bring you the best properties.

Our  3 Strand Nylon Rope  and  3 Strand Polyester Rope  are both ideal choices for fender lines when docking. These ropes are very resilient and abrasion-resistant while being flexible and easy to splice. Both these rope options come in a variety of diameters, each giving you a different break load, and can be custom cut accordingly.

For more product information on these lines, please take a look at our detailed mooring ropes guide.

For more information about yacht ropes and our range of items, call or  email one of our rope experts . They will be more than happy to discuss your rope requirements and the products most suitable for you.

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Splicing, rigging and sewing service, easy, online export, our intuitive website excludes vat and calculates shipping options in the basket when you enter your export delivery address., shop by brand.

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Boom Control and Gybe Preventer System

6:1 purchase system - extra long 40m line, spliced set length 12mm liros braided dockline polyester mooring warps, jimmy green dyneema spliced loops, spliced set length chain hooks with 3 strand nylon tail, rope ladders up to 20 metres - v top design, anchor retrieval system, jimmy green braid on braid polyester fender lanyards, jimmy green marine chandlery.

We are a well established family concern offering Reliable, Continuous Service since 1981. We operate our online marine chandlery warehouse from our Splicing, Rigging and Sewing premises on The Meadows, Beer, East Devon supported by our clothing outlet in the main street.

We invite you to Shop Online for Ropes, Rigging, Safety Equipment and Marine Chandlery plus clothing and accessories for sailing and outdoor activities.

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Sta-Lok Rigging Terminal Fitting Instructions

Stainless steel wire rigging - custom build instructions, stainless steel wire break load comparison, wire rigging guide, why choose compacted strand for your standing rigging, colligo marine distributor dimensions, colligo marine terminator specifications, fibre rigging - custom build instructions, replacing your standing rigging - a step by step guide, how to identify and specify your standing rigging components, do it yourself standing rigging quotes, insulated 1x19 wire backstays.

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The Yacht Rigger

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107 15th Ave SE

Saint Petersburg, FL 33701

Old South East

Serving Saint Petersburg Area

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About the business.

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The Yacht Rigger LLC is a mobile sailboat rigging, marine hardware service and parts source based out of St Petersburg, Florida. We are dedicated to assisting you, the sailor, in all aspects regarding your sailboat’s rigging. We offer a mobile sailboat rigging service as well as a free online consultation service regarding online store purchases. Our online store functions as a local and international yacht rigging parts supplier. We specialize in all types of yacht rigging, whether your boat is for cruising or racing, our team provides a comprehensive unbiased service tailored around you and your vessel. Please check out our Services and About page for more info regarding what we do. …

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Overall rating

The go-to riggers in West Florida, hands down. The entire team is not only knowledgeable, but potentially the highest integrity marine outfit you'll ever work with. They've expertly rigged my 46' cruising cat and I've seen firsthand their work on other sailboats. Truly the best around.

The Yacht Rigger is a one-stop business for all your marine rigging needs and more. We have had Stephen and his crew do a lot of work on our boat (a 42' sailing catamaran) including new standing rigging, running rigging, construction of a solar arch and tender lift system, custom made solar panels, installation of solar controllers, custom made dive tank holders, increased the length of our rode and replaced the bridle. We even needed some aluminum welding done and Stephen was more than happy to do it for us. Stephen is a man of integrity and a complete professional who loves his work and works tirelessly to see the project completed and ensure the customer is happy. He is now our go-to guy for all of our boat work. I cannot recommend The Yacht Rigger highly enough and we are thrilled with all the improvements he has done to our boat.

Construction of the solar arch.

Installing the solar arch.

As you can see in Google reviews these guys have amazing reviews but as my other reviews show, I review based on the details of my own experience, not others. I wanted them to replace the rigging but also do additional and related work that that Yacht Riggers ultimately broke up into three different projects: replace all standing rigging, replace all chain plates, and install a bow roller for my 55 lb mantus anchor on my 30 ft Pearson. Before going into the details of the execution it should be noted that I value communication before, during, and after the project above all else. What I mean by this is that I will let so many mistakes and lapse in project planning and foresight slide in the presence of good and consistent communication, not just with me, but with each other as well. I would say poor Internal communication is the primary motivation behind the three stars. Initial contact/planning: I need to mention that I initially contacted Yacht Riggers in January 2021 and that all work has been verified complete June 16th 2021, it should be noted that actual work commenced March 1st. So please understand this could have been due to a backlog. If you consider the amount of time to complete from initial contact it took 6 months. If you consider the amount of time to complete from the start of work it took 2.5 months. This is not as bad as a kitchen remodel of mine that took a year and a half (see 5280 google review) :-) Communication/follow up: From a communication standpoint here is what I experienced. They only reply to emails once a day, you must leave a message if you call and they will respond with the same cadence as emails, once a day. Please note, I found this to be typical, not every time, as there were certainly exceptions. Here's the three star part of this review; towards the beginning of the project to about the middle, the participants in the project had a lot of internal communication problems. This tapered off significantly towards the end as I think they were finding too many things being missed that ultimately dug into their profits, so it was remedied. I told them that I wanted a 55 lb mantus (purposefully oversized for the boat as I wanted more weight on the ocean floor when anchoring). I communicated this through phone and email at least four times throughout the process and they forgot that detail at least three times. This tells me that if there was a project plan that the size of the anchor was not taken into consideration, noted, or integrated as they ran into problems with the size when they ordered the new anchor roller. They had physically been on/in the boat more than enough times to make a qualified assessment. They even disconnected the bow pulpit for the dry fit in anticipation. The reasons they gave for why the anchor wouldn't work was based on a visual assessment after they had ordered hardware, performed welding work, and put in man hours. While I was credited labor I was not credited all of it, again, for something that could have been assessed by qualified personnel with many years of experience behind them. The problem was it wasn't communicated that the anchor was 55 lbs. they even tried to tell me they didn't know and I countered they did know and it was mentioned (and acknowledged) in several emails. They had not shared the information internally, this is a recurring theme with them on this project. For the rigging work they gave me an estimate of 7000 and the final invoice was 4378. I mean, that's pretty off. People might say, "yeah but it's in your favor". Ok, but it's an in accurate estimate by any standard. They did better with the chainplate and bow work. I asked them not to go over 4000 and they hit 200 over before taxes...it's fine. My total for the rigging, chainplates, and anchor roller install was 8935. Because of the poor planning on the bow work they gave me the mantus anchor for half price. Works for me. The poor internal communication is my only real beef. The work was good, some had to be redone but nothing that was a big deal. A windex bolt came loose, there was a chain plate leak, lack of proper planning caused loss of time and labor hours, and at one point the fuller drum wasn't secured in high winds and scratched and scuffed my deck. I like Yacht Rigger's enthusiasm but wish there was more of a project management mentality with their execution. By all accounts, they are the best in the area. I only hope my review serves to help people anticipate communication problems that could arise with this team.

I received a call from the company and although less than pleasant, and obvious they had read my review, they agreed to buy back a part bought because the first electrician they sent misdiagnosed the problem.

Sep 18, 2021

Hi James. Thankfully there are always two sides to a story. I'm glad I'm able to give our version. This might seem long winded but I feel it's necessary to be so that we can explain what happened here clearly - although I have told you this over the phone already. First off, yes, we did have a rather unpleasant conversation a few days ago, mostly I would say, due to you feeling the need to constantly curse at me, and while doing so accuse our team of committing fraud on the job. Back to the job in question. When you initially called in with wind instrument problems we sent out a team to replace the masthead anemometer (transducer) which is the most common cause of failure in these systems. This did not solve the issue, so we sent out an electrician to test the rest of the system. The electrician (whom you are incorrectly accusing of incompetence), followed Raymarine tech support guidelines in troubleshooting the unit, and based on their live feedback, was under the impression your head unit had a bad ground. Once you supplied the new head unit it became apparent this was not the case - electrical fault finding in electronics is tricky at best. We did not charge you for a single minute of the first electricians time (two call-outs) as we realized the diagnosis was incorrect and it would be unfair to do so. The second electrician used a different technique, and established an issue with the internal mast wiring. So we returned and replaced the mast wiring. Once this was done, we plugged in your old transducer (which I now realize you are accusing us of switching out with another, bad unit because we didn't label the unit to your liking) and it still didn't work. We double checked the mast base connections, and it still didn't work - so we plugged in the new transducer, and it worked. So both the wiring and the transducer had faults. This is where we dive into the realm of perception vs reality. During our phone conversation you accused our guys of deliberately disconnecting the mast base wiring during the test of the old transducer, and then sneakily reconnecting the wiring when we plugged in our transducer. First off, this is simply offensive. Secondly, this would be a very foolish fraud model as we only make a few dollars on a transducer like that due to the incredibly low margins on electronics. In other words, besides it being immoral behavior, there's no incentive to do so. You continue to maintain that the first electrician was "incompetent" and cost you $220 due to you buying the head unit on eBay. I would have thought you would just place that item on eBay and re-sell it. When I brought this up you lamented that doing so was A LOT of work. Despite this not really being the case, when you expressed not wanting to do this I told you we would do it for you and just write you a check for the $220. This was done on Friday. We have still not received payment for the invoice sent to you for the work performed as of that Friday afternoon. I hope it arrives soon. At the end of the job, yes, it was higher than initially estimated, simply due to the fact that additional parts were bad and some additional labor required to replace them. When I went through the invoice with you line by line to establish which parts of it specifically you took issue with, all you would say was that we were incompetent fraudsters and wouldn't address any items specifically. I'm really not sure what else we could have doing here. Regards Stephen

I have used them before and they did a good job, but this last time was just awful. I had an electrical problem with my wind and direction gushed. They sent an electrician who did not have the correct parts and misdiagnosed my problem as the control head needed replacement. Since I have an older boat I had to find one used on eBay which I did for $220. That wasn't the problem so he contacted another guy who did have the right equipment and knowledge who found the real problem. The Yacht Rigger refused to honor the cost of replacement part I did not need and the eventual bill was about twice the estimate.

I needed a bigger anchor after dragging one night. I called the YR and they spent lots of time helping me decide on a Mantus M2. They delivered the anchor to my boat, helped my son get the crate lifted onto the foredeck, and provided great tech support about greasing the castle nut. I was concerned that I assembled the anchor wrong and they came out and took the anchor apart and reassembled the anchor, free of charge. Great company, great pricing, great customer service.

Sep 27, 2021

Thanks guys! Great working with you!

I have known and worked with these guys for many years. It is very difficult to be good at everything but I believe that these guys do a very good job with everything Boat related! Their knowledge and talent is refreshing in an industry that doesn't always have the best reputation. Completing difficult jobs in a very difficult time right now with Covid challenges, it's nice to have a company that you can count on like the Yacht Rigger

Hey Colin, Thanks very much for the review. Always good doing business with you guys.

I bought a new to me sailboat in oct 2020 and was told by my surveyor that it needed a new rig (all new standing rigging). This is where the yacht riggers come in, even though I was out of town they came to my boat and did an inspection. I was called by Stephen at the yacht riggers and told that my surveyor I was correct and that I didn need a new rig. This gave me the ability to use that during my negotiations for the price of the sailboat. I purchased at the end of oct, and had the sailboat to st Petersburg and getting the rig replaced by jan. I would say they were about a month out for repairs like this. I showed up the day of for the mast removal onetime and so was their crane operator (this is outsourced) they share space with a working yard. They removed the mast and allowed me to be apart of the process as much and or as little as I wanted. I participated a lot in and throughout the process. It took about a month before my mast was refurbished and all new standing rigging in place and a time scheduled for me to have it re-stepped. They also scheduled me with another person who was having theirs taken down to reduce the cost of the crane between the other boat and mine. This was prob a 200-300 savings for myself and the other boat. The job was finished fast and with great communication. I even had bought a new lamp for the mast but they had replaced it already and instead of charging me for the lamp I just gave them mine which I had ordered because I got it at a significant discount and they called it square no charge for the install etc etc. I also continued to use the yacht rigger during my next 2months in st Pete for a few more projects. I ordered from them a new Atlantic tower in a box. No fault to them the company had sent the next size up tower which at first was a pain for myself as I was installing it myself and was getting frustrated with the process because I could not figure out why it was still to large after following all instructions. I called and spoke with the yacht riggers about this and they figured out that it was in fact the wrong size for my vessel but would work as long as I did a few more things which would mean I actually have a beefier tower then I needed or paid for which isn't a bad thing. But without question one of the owners came over to my boat that day and helped me fix the problem giving me about 3 hours of their time which was prob about 8-10 hours of mine had I not had Brian helping me out. This lead to me getting my tower up the same day I started the project and now having a beefier setup for my new solar panels I was installing too. Brian who's amazing at welding also was able to help me with my heat exchanger. He was able to reconfigure the mixing elbow end of my heat exchanger which had blown a hole and was causing my engine to over heat and fixed in about a week for a few hundred dollars making the heat exchanger look and work like new. This compared to the 2300 dollars it would have cost for a new heat exchanger for my yammer was amazing. These guys seem to do it all and do it with a smile! This was by far a great experience with 99% of the stuff I needed being done on time and for under budget. I would go back to them in a heart beat!

in my 70 years in the industry they are literally the best people to work with in the industry!

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About Ropes & Wire

Ropes and Wire is your one-stop online shop for all of your yacht rope needs.

Working closely with Robline, we bring you a range of quality yacht ropes to suit any application.

And it’s not just all about boats, we supply ropes for 4×4 winches, climbing, and home and garden uses.

And they couldn’t be simpler to buy. Just select the rope you need, use the drop-down menus for size, splices, and hardware, and we’ll deliver it.

And if you’re not sure exactly what you need, just contact us . Our team of expert riggers will be happy to help and advise.

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We will beat any genuine wire quote from any UK competitor.

As we’ve been in the business for over 40 years, we can offer great deals on standing rigging, and other wire applications.

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