replacing a sailboat halyard

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Changing the halyard from wire to rope

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Hi there, I'm new to this fourm and I have a question, but first some background. We sail out of Whitby, ON on an H28 Ketch rig. She has a mahogany hull, spruce masts and a furling headsail. Our wire halyards have all but worn out and we've decided to switch to rope. The sheaves will take a maximum of 3/16" It was suggested to us that we go with Spectra 12 strand because it's low stretch and high strength. However it's very expensive, approx. $1.30/ft. It has a Minimum Tensile Strength of 3600 lbs. Novabraid Polyspec has been made as a less expensive alternative but I want to make sure it's strong enough. It has a similar elongation at break strength but only a Minimum Tensile Strength of approx. 1800 lbs. Does anyone know if this is suitable as an alternative? Thanking you in advance, Bobby Seahorse - H28  

You might be able to change out your sheeves, 3/16" line is very small. If you go with Spectra it will be strong enough but will be hard to handle. 5/16" is about as small as I would want to use. If you cannot change out your sheeves you can go with "tapered" halyards. That is one where you have a high tech core like spectra and have a cover on it part way up. This allows a larger line at the deck where you are handling it and the 3/16" core will go though the sheeves. Gary  

sailingdog said: Sheaves used for rope generally have a u-shaped profile to the groove, while sheaves for wire generally have a v-shaped profile to the groove. While you can sometimes use v-shaped wire sheaves on rope, it will tend to cause the rope to wear through faster than if you had the proper sheaves. Click to expand...

Thanks for all your great advice so far. I'm not sure if the sheave is v or u shaped as she is in ON and I'm currently in BC. I really don't want to have to take the masts down again to replace the sheaves either. So I'm hoping that I can find a suitable solution, one that will last at least a few years before I have to rethink. sailingdog, your advice on the Novabraid Polyspec is exactly what I suspected, but I guess I just needed some reassurance. Perhaps we can go with a tapered line to be easier on the hands. I'll definitely inspect the sheaves for all 3 haylards as well. Can't wait to get sailing. Bobby  

gimmellsdad said: I really don't want to have to take the masts down again to replace the sheaves either. So I'm hoping that I can find a suitable solution, one that will last at least a few years before I have to rethink. Click to expand...

I wouldn't even consider line as small as 3/16 - it's going to be really hard on your hands when raising the sail. Either change the sheaves to something that can handle a 5/16 line or stick with wire.  

If you're shopping around for rope, check out these guys Redpoint Ropes Manufacturing They are in Midland Ontario, not too far from you and their prices are very good. I changed my wire halyards to rope last year and I believe the price was between $0.95/ft - $1.05. Their work is excellent as well.  

I am definitely shopping around for rope, I just don't know which size now....lol I was hoping to find something in BC while I'm working out here and take it back with me. If I can't find a decent savings I'll definitely send this request off to the local marine supply store and give him the business.  

I had a tapered halyard made as described in Gary M's post. Our sheaves were fine, so we've had no problem with that approach. But if you do replace them, it is not hard to do. I removed mine to clean up and lubricate the pin that serves as the axle. They come out easily - mereley remove a cotter pin. IRMV  

I figured it was as easy as that to change the sheaves. I'm sure once I'm up on the bosin's chair I'll find something I didn't think about beforehand.  

I am facing a similar situation on my boat. I would like to replace the current hire/rope halyards with all rope, and expect to have to replace the sheave as well. All of the current halyards are so dry rotted that going up the mast on them is a very scary idea. I feel like my only option is to just replace it with another wire/rope halyard until I can upstep the mast?  

Is your current set up wire that leads into a rope or just wire?  

the current setup is wire spliced into rope.  

How do you guys calculate the needed halyard strength based on the sail area?  

pretty much any modern low stretch material that fits in a rope sheave will have enough strength. There are lots of sites that recommend running rigging. Running Rigging Calculator Samson Ropes Selection Guide at Mauri Pro Sailing  

Wow, looks like 3,000 pounds is all a jib or main halyard needs. I just thought it would have been more.  

You do not need 5/16" 12 strand, you need a 5/16" line like Warpspeed that is 5/16" OD and a core of 3/16" ? but has a polyester cover that cab be stripped if necesary. Of you can pull a cover over a 3/16" 12 braid. You also need to go up your mast and take a good look at hte sheeves if you have not done so to see what is involved. An older wooden mast may have some surprises. I replaced all 4 halyards last year about this time and and it took me all winter to reseach what I wanted to do. And even after all that I would do it diffrently now. I also practiced splicing so I could do the eyes myself. Slow but they look OK. Good luck Gary  

Thankfully we use the mast crane at the club to do the real work of getting my sorry butt up to the top. :laugher Especially with two masts. I'll just do the work on one, they'll move the boat down below and I'll do the work on the second.  

Of course, you might want to buy line from Sailnet, since we're using their website for this discussion? Please note that changing the sheaves will involve going up the mast to find out the diameter and thickness of the existing sheaves, as well as whether they're "U" shaped and don't need replacing at all. If you do decide to go ahead, you have to purchase the replacement sheaves. These new sheaves have to match the old dimensions exactly, or the halyards may jump the sheave and jam. It is not fun when this happens. You can fit spacers or bushings to keep halyards from jumping, but this is not fun either, since it brings more complexity and possible problems into the equation. Then you climb the mast again to remove the old sheaves and slip in the new ones. Slip is the definitive word here. Better buy some extras, in case something goes splash. By this point, you may have spent enough to offset a couple of year's worth of wear on the halyards from any "V" shaped groove in the sheaves. We switched out our rope/wire spliced halyards about 10 years ago without checking to see if the sheaves were V or U shaped and have not had any issues with wear. I am heading down to the unstepped mast tomorrow. I will look to see if they're V or U -shaped and let you know.  

I should rename the thread to Changing the halyard from wire to rope-and back to wire again.....lol After many pictures taken, and much discussion (it's kinda tough to make accurate decisions when you're 3000 kms from your own boat) we have decided to go with both. Well, Wire to rope. Taking out the sheaves would have meant a lot of work because of the way it's situated in the mast. Adding blocks was well, more work, cost and weight that we didn't want/need. Se we've decided to keep the sheave and go with this: - 35-40' 1/8" wire with a 60' 3/8 braid tail for the Main - 30-35' 1/8" wire with a 45' braid tail for the mizzen. The headsail is staying with rope as it's already equipped with a block. Thank you to everyone who helped with this monumental decision.....lol Bobby Seahorse  

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If you are replacing an existing line, the easiest way to determine what diameter you need is to match what you already have. This can be done with a caliper or by close estimation with a tape measure. For example, if you've previously used a 7mm halyard and it has performed well, another 7mm line is likely a great choice. In most applications, there is some flexibility in the exact diameter that can be used. Most blocks, for example, have an 'ideal' diameter (ie, the line diameter that runs most effectively though the block's sheave) but also have a range so that you can run a slightly thinner or slightly thicker line. If you have a halyard that is getting hung up in your rig, stepping down 1-2mm might help the halyard run more efficiently. If you have a larger boat or rig and want to run a thinner halyard, consider a double braid line that features a Dyneema or Spectra core for strength. A similar approach can be applied to replacing sheets, control lines, and other line on your sailboat.

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Two terms you will often see in line descriptions are 'double braid' and 'single braid', which refer to the way the line is constructed. At the most basic level, a double braid line has a cover and a core whereas a single braid does not, but there are other important distinctions to consider when making a line selection.

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23 Nov 2018

A guide to choosing the right replacement running rigging lines

Purchasing replacement lines is often a straightforward process. Especially, if you're happy with the performance of the existing line and can identify what it is. The length can easily be specified by measuring an existing halyard or sheet and can even be guessed fairly accurately, from schematics if you are familiar with your deck layout. The nominal diameter is slightly trickier because different brands use different volumes of fibre to achieve their specifications creating slight variations in comparable ropes. If in doubt, deck hardware is often a good place to check for recommended line diameters.

The difficulty arises when considering an upgrade or you're not entirely sure what you already have on board. At this point, the material to be used, the construction and the diameter of the rope all need to be considered. These factors have a significant influence on the overall cost and performance of your line. This guide aims to help you choose the right line at the right price.

Rope Materials

There are many more fibres available for the truly discerning sailor, however, this article sets out the 5 most common ones found in our product range.

Listed in order from most expensive to most economical, they are Vectran, Dyneema, Technora, Polyester and Polypropylene. 

• Vectran is the strongest and most expensive fibre and has very low elongation over time (creep). It is commonly impregnated with a UV stabiliser.
• Dyneema is very nearly equal to Vectran in terms of strength and stretch and is also usually impregnated with a UV protective coating. The price advantage over Vectran makes this a popular choice with rope manufacturers at the upper end of the market.
• Technora has very high abrasion and UV resistance and is commonly blended into the cover/jacket of a braid on braid line.
• Polyester is the most common fibre with excellent UV resistance, good breaking strains and low stretch characteristics. It is available in a bright monofilament fibre and a softer, matt finish, spun yarn. Bright polyester fibres are low stretch e.g. braid on braid bright white polyester. The softer feel, spun yarn has less strength and is slightly stretchier. Spun yarn is typically used for the cover/jacket on e.g. 16 plait matt polyester.
• Polypropylene is the lightest (doesn't absorb water) and cheapest fibre. However, it is stretchy and susceptible to UV.

Rope manufacturers have traditionally used different fibres for the core and the cover, in order to make the most of their relative advantages, but can now produce even better ropes by blending different fibres together, in either the core or the jacket.

Rope Construction

The majority of lines are comprised of a braided core and a braided jacket. The most common cruising lines are 100% polyester (cost effective). The weight of fibre in these lines is usually balanced equally between the cover and the core and can be spliced using the double braid splice.

Marlowbraid is the exception as it has a 3-strand core which slightly reduces stretch for a very modest increase in price. The downside of this construction is that it tends to flatten around sheaves and winches.

N.B. braided lines with a polypropylene core may make a saving but will be reflected in a marked lack of performance particularly with regard to extra stretch where it is not desirable.

The construction of the cover also has a bearing on abrasion resistance. Generally, the covers with a tighter weave or 'more plaits' e.g. 8, 16, 24 or 32 plaits offer a sliding scale of improved wear resistance.

Stronger fibres such as Dyneema or Vectran are required to significantly increase the strength of a line and reduce its stretch. Typically, these fibres are used in the core which is therefore much stronger than the cover. These lines then have to be spliced using the core dependent method which in turn means the weight of fibre in the cover can be reduced.

Cost vs Performance

The cost is directly related to the amount of Dyneema/Vectran content in the finished rope and therefore related to the strength and stretch.

It, therefore, follows that the strongest (and most expensive) line for a given diameter does not have a cover and is 100% 'core'. However, Halyards and sheets still rely on the cover for grip and abrasion resistance in clutches and on winches. The solution is to strip the cover from the core shortly after the winch or clutch. This can only be done with core dependent ropes.

All the fibres mentioned can be blended to produce covers with different properties. Racers may use a polypropylene/Dyneema blend for lightweight sheets or a technora/polyester blend for sheets that get through a lot of work. Cruisers are less likely to have sailing condition specific requirements, so a standard polyester cover heavy enough to give good longevity is usually the best bet.

Choose the right line

The full range of lines supplied by Jimmy Green Marine can cater for both the cruisers and the racers. So we have arranged the lines on a sliding scale to help you decide where to aim. Specifications are based on 12mm lines.

Whether you're a cruiser looking to strengthen up your lines for a more adventurous outing or a racer looking for a better price point Jimmy Green has a line for you.

You can also find further information on the infographic below. The stretch percentages are based on a 500kg working load rather than an ultimate breaking load. This accounts for the difference between the infographic and the table above. 

Shop for Sheets and Halyards

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Liros 12mm dynamic plus dyneema - sheets, halyards, control lines, 10mm marlowbraid - sheets, halyards, control lines, 100 metre reel - marlowbraid, liros 14mm herkules - sheets, halyards, control lines, 50 metre cut length - liros classic matt plait polyester, author: jimmy green, you may also like.

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12 Trendy Fall Boat Shoes That Are More Comfortable Than Sneakers — Picks from Amazon, Nordstrom and More

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Out with the sneakers and boots, in with the boat shoes! If you consider yourself a fashionista, you know that boat shoes are about to replace sneakers in the style spotlight. Given that sneakers have had the spotlight all summer long, it’s about time!

Related: This Designer-Looking Trench Coat Is Only $30

Unlike sneakers, boat shoes yield a classy, refined style that screams East Coast rich. They’re slightly nautical, ultra-preppy and sophisticated, all while pairing perfectly with any everyday ensemble. And unlike chunky boots, they’re light, chic and comfortable — if you find the right ones, that is!

We found some of the trendiest boat shoes from stores like Zappos, Nordstrom, Walmart and Amazon bound to give you the aesthetic you seek while supporting your feet, the best-case scenario if you ask Us ! Whether your budget is $20 or $200, read on to find a new go-to that’s comfier than your favorite walking kicks.

Let’s jump in!

1. Classy classic:  When you think of boat shoes, chances are you think of Sperry. These are the original boat shoes that have thousands of five-star reviews — $110 at Nordstrom!

2. Functional find:  If you’re serious about this whole yachting thing, you’ll need a non-slip shoe that repels water and resists stains. Meet your new go-to from outdoor brand Columbia — originally $70, now $41 on Amazon!

3. Clean look:  All-white sneakers are trendy . . . but all-white boat shoes are trendier! These leather Jeffrey Campbell boat shoes are effortlessly chic — $145 at Nordstrom! 

4. Plush cushioning: Yes, they’re as comfortable as they sound! Sketchers nailed the boat shoe look with these kicks while incorporating Ultra Go cushioning for support — originally $65, now $58 at Zappos!

5. Sperry Bahama 2.0:  Colors like white and navy exude yachting energy and these casual Sperry shoes are no exception — originally $70, now $52 at Zappos!

6. Girly girl:  Rhinestones are just the beginning when it comes to why we adore these Kirt Geiger London boat shoes. Gold accents and a darling bow tie are a few highlights — $135 at Nordstrom!

7. Casual find:  You’ll love the suede material of these Cecelia New York shoes that combine a boat shoe and a loafer. A 1.25-inch heel will give you some height, too — $20 at Walmart!

8. Sporty chic:  These leather shoes from Sebago are water-resistant and extra-breathable , ideal for day-to-day walks, touring the city and more — $185 at Nordstrom!

9. Crowd favorite:  Nearly 50,000 reviewers give these Hey Dude boat shoes five stars, so if you don’t take our word, take theirs! The shoe also happens to be over 50% off right now — originally $64, now $26 on Amazon!

10. Coastal style:  Another win from Sketchers! With a recycled knit upper, these are the perfect shoes for anyone traveling to Europe . . . or who are just wanting to look Italian — originally $63, now $57 at Zappos!

11. Chunky look:  Combine a chunky sneaker, boat shoe and loafer into one with these brand-new Steve Maddens ! A 1.5-inch heel, lace-up style and raw edge detailing give them a one-of-a-kind flair — $100 at Nordstrom!

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12. Western-inspired leather:  Why choose between Western and East Coast styles when you can have both ? This Roper shoe has a trendy design etched into its distressed leather — originally $81, now $65 at Zappos!

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How to replace lost halyard?

• Thread starter walmsleyc
• Start date May 16, 2008
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Ok ... I've got a fractionally rigged Hunter Legend 35. I was trying to pull a messenger through the mast on the old main halyard, and they parted in the process, and I now no longer have anything running up the mast to the very top. I still have a spin a jib halyard, but they terminate ~5-6 feet down from the mast head.Does anyone have any creative suggestion to getting a new halyard back in without dropping the mast? Assuming I'll have to do it with the mast down, do people have any helpful hints on how to pull a new halyard through?  

Stan Breaux

Someone on this board always suggests... 1. Find a bridge that you can get close to and then work on it from the bridge.2. Find a buddy with a tall mast, too (although I never coudl figure out how this woudl work.  

Got a high place? Is there a high place that you can motor up to? Someplace where you can get access to the mast? One of local lakes has an on-the-water mast crane, with something like that you could go up the crane in a bosun chair to the mast head. Maybe a building with a balcony that overhangs the water? Would boat-to boat work? Go up the mast of the other boat and heel yours over with the spin halyard. You will have to think long and hard about the safety of whatever solution you find - but there may be something around that would work.Just ideas, I take the mast down, but my mast is only 30 feet tall.OC  

Rent lift Last year a friend rented a Gini which is a lift they use for construction work.He went in with a few people and they shared the cost. It was about $275.00 for a full day. They deliverd it to the Marina and picked it up.After it was all said and done about five people used it and the cost came down more. They pulled the boats to the bulkhead and up they went. Hope this helps.Joe  

Old Rigging Chris -Last year I had my mast down and re-routed my halyards to run inside the mast. I had exit plates installed over the exit holes drilled into the mast that were about 6-8 feet above the base of the mast. It was difficult to route the halyards up through these holes being that they were 6-8 feet below the bottom of the mast. I also replaced the standing rigging that spring too so I had an old shroud in my garage. I used this to snake a messenger line up through the exit plate and north all the way to the mast head. I am not sure what the situation at the mast head is like but perhaps you could get the shroud close enough to where the halyard exists the masthead - and you could grab it. Its was a little different for me as it was on saw horses.This all assumes you have an old shroud around, a helper to snake it up and your able to get to the top of the mast. Your spin halyard ends though 5-6 feet below so that might be a problem unless your masthead is open and you could somehow grab the shroud with a boat-hook or something once it comes through....Just some creative suggestions...Rob  

The way I do it My mast is 55'. The way I go up, when absolutely necessary, is to use the boom vang. I have 200' of 1/2 nylon reserved just for this purpose. I attach the rig to the spinnaker halyard, and haul it to the top. Then get in the bosuns chair and haul my skinny little but up. Have the main halyard attached as a back up, with someone tending that line. BE CAREFUL I fell from the spreaders a couple of years ago, doing this very same thing without a backup. There was a sharp edge up there somewhere, and I was up for a pretty long time installing new spreader lights. Swinging back and forth, and pretty much enjoying myselfr. The sharp edge, still haven't found it, cut the line, and I came down in a hurry. I can tell you from first hand experience that the fall isn't bad, but the sudden stop at the end is a bitch.  

Vang I have a vang with a 4-1 ratio, so it isn't any big problem pulling myself up. Is actually quicker than you would think. PLEASE, HOWEVER YOU GO UP, BE CAREFUL  

Find a bridge? The water near the bridge better be smooth as glass with no wakes.One good bounce against the bridge and your mast will come down.Good luckSH  

Just say no Just say no to the bridge idea. I have heard it suggested lots of times, but don't remember ever seeing a post where someone has actually done it. First, you are going to have to find a bridge the proper height, no easy feat. Then manage to get the boat secured so it won't move. Then you will have to get from the boat up on the bridge. Of course the water will have to be dead calm. And lastly, whatever you do will have to be done while leaning over a railing, hoping a passing car doesn't find you, and no boats come bye making a even small wake. Too many things that can go wrong, and when they can they will.  

Is the halyard still there or did it drop down the mast? If the halyard is still there and there is some "loop-like" structure on it you could get the boat hook out and go up the mast on the jib halyard. Snag the main and be sure to get pitcures. I have done this once and it did a number on my back but I was successful.The boat was in the water so I was properly motiveted to save $$$$ with a lot of elbo grease.  

sailortonyb Allied Mis

Ever hear of Mast Climbers? or something like that. Its similar to mountain climbing gear. You actually climb a rope using your legs for power lifting. If you can get to within 6 feet of the top, then transfer over to the topping lift and go higher. A rigger would know how to do it. I'm too lazy to explain and if you never did it before, you may get killed in the process.A person used to climbing rigging can do it safely.Tony B  

The yard may have a cherry picker. Chris:Check with some of the yards they may have a cherry picker. They can hoist someone up there and drop a line down the mast.Do you have exit sheaves at the bottom of the mast?Other than this, you may be stuck with dropping the stick!  

Here is something creative that might actually work. Try tying a wad of paper or a small paper cone to a light messenger chord somethin like nylon thread. introduce it through the the bottom and blow it up with a blast of air. They use that technique for pulling cable through the underground computer conduit at school. That thing snaked through about 100' of conduit.Frank  

Climb up You could buy a mast ladder. The steps slide right into the sail track. You could use the spin halyard for a belay line.  

I did this a couple of months ago It took several trips up and down to get it all done because of the fact that my topping lift and main halyard were crossed combined with the fact that I could not get the little fishing weight to pass over the top of the block.  Check first if the lines are crossed. My boat has the topping lift exiting the mast on the starboard side. The topping lift should exit the top of the mast through the pulley on that same side.First, use the topping lift as a messenger to pull another replacement line to use for a halyard. My topping lift was too short to use as a normal halyard. It is strong enough but hard to grip. If your lines are crossed like mine were, just use the main halyard and you can later fish it out the base of the mast. If not, pull it through a snatch block at the base of the mast. After the snatch block, it passes through the starboard jib block and thence to the starboard winch. I attached the free end of the line to the base of the mast.Then I tried Jumar ascenders with a climbing harness but it was too dicey on the boat because of it moving around too much. Then I tried pulling the halyard very tight and that was a little better. I tried using a sail slide as well to keep from swinging around and that helped a lot.You can use the old method by having a friend winch you up there but you may help a little by climbing when you can. I got tired from helping and it made my hands shakey and cold when I finally got up there so keep that in mind. Also, I was not close enough to the mast head on my first trip to reach everything and had to redo my rig on the second trip to get higher. Even so, you will be working over your head and it is difficult to hang on, support yourself and fish the weight too.To get the fishing weight to fall over the top of the mast pulley, I used a short length of straw with the fishing line passed through it and that worked to push it over on my fourth trip. It sounds simple but you will see what I mean when you get up there. The pulley is much smaller than I expected and my fingers would not fit into the space where the line goes.I also used the second jib halyard attached to a long line (I used anchor rode) which I cleated to the next slip over and tightened to make the boat lean to one side and keep the weight on the proper side and keep it from swinging around other lines inside the mast.I used a short stiff electrical wire to hook the fishing line when it got to the bottom.It also may help to push the forward halyards against the front of the mast using the topping lift hole for access.A mast ladder or four part block might also work to get you up there but I did not have a ladder and the block hoist was too tiring for me.While I was up there, I replaced my broken Windex with one of the new ones with the spike to keep the birds off of it. It was seriously difficult to get it out. The threaded base was literally glued in place from corrosion. A hammer would not get it out so I took out the set screw and replaced only the upper portion.That is all I can think of but if any of this is confusing, ask again.Do not forget to use a safety line around the mast that will stop you at the next lower spreader. A Prussik knot will work too.  

go buy a 100 foot fishtape all tho it may take a few tries to hit the right spot. Mast Mate however sounds like the best overall solution. Another possibility is a lift truck as used to replace light bulbs in parking lots/signs.  

This might work If your fractional rig is like mine (1988 33.5), you have the main halyard and the topping lift as the only two lines that go all the way to the mast head. A broken sheave and jammed halyard forced me to use the remaining line to hoist a Mast Mate to the top. A bosons chair could also be used, but may not give you the height you need to work the top of the mast head. I have a ZSpar mast which has a removable cap on the masthead. Once removed you can drop a small weighted line down the mast and fish it out at the bottom. A long electricians fish-tape might also work. If you use a small weighted line you will have to securely attach and fish in a larger messenger line and then fish in the new halyard. Sewing the new halyard to the messenger line with whipping twine and feeding the new halyard it slowly works best. Best of luck  

Warren Milberg

I'm not familiar with the Hunter Legend 35, but I am familiar with money, the all purpose tool that always works. Contact your local or mobile rigging shop and see what they say and how much they would charge to reeve you a new halyard. Most rigging shops do this kind of thing all the time -- and without the radical surgery and cost of unstepping a mast.  

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