(281) 844-4458

Welcome to Custom Sailboat Trailers

full keel sailboat trailer

Trailer Facts

  • We build galvanized sail boat trailers
  • Some of our trailers are refurbished. 
  • They are all float on trailers 
  • We build extensions for launching
  • Our used trailers are rebuilt stronger 

     

full keel sailboat trailer

  • We also move boats
  • Transport Boats
  • Trailer Parts
  • Tongue extensions
  • Side Guides
  • Safety Chains

Interesting Facts

  •  In 2008 the  EPA took the lead and nickel out of the hot dipped galvanize. I bought  all the hot dipped galvanized frames i could,built before 2009 at scrap  prices,so the trailer manufacturers could buy the aluminum to get a head  start in the aluminum trailer business. Some of the trailer builders  that did not get in the race,went under.Sportsman trailers in Texas  was one of them. I bought about 200 of there frames. These frames were  all built for mono hulls.I build my sail boat trailers with these  frames. I go up with a 2" galvanized pipe,then weld two 3/4" nuts near the top.I brace the risers  with two are three 1 1/2"x1/4" angle iron braces with a 1 1/2" pipe  telescoping up and down with a swivel pad or runners. 
  •  J 22 and J 24  trailer fits most any boat with a deep draft.The axles are on slides  U-bolted to frame so you can add another axle. 
  • This trailer  is 30 ft . It will adjust to   any sail boat are mono hull boat. It is  galvanized  It is 42 years old. I has the  good galvanize.and great  American steel. 
  • Galvanized with three 5200 lb axle,     10 risers, adjustable to fit deep drafts 
  •  25 to 28 ft shallow draft or swing keel
  • Painted  trailer with 10 risers, 37ft long, with three 5200 lb axles,surge brake  on two axles. It is ready to go. Call it will sell fast. 
  • This trailer carried the boat 10,000 mi. It is for sale for $2,500.I will add a bow stop 
  •  Yard trailer  that can be converted later for road trailer we can add  one more 4500  lb axle and adjust the bow stop. The bow stop is U-bolted to the tongue.  When you have completed the work and ready for the road. We can assist  you in completing the trailer. 
  • Rubber bushing under keel board to take the shock off the keel.  

Painted trailer for Catalina 25

  • Hunter 26 
  • Oday24 
  • $2300 
  •  24 ft frame for 30 ft boat for three  axles 
  •  This trailer  was made for a 5500 lb boat. We are able to add another slide with  axles, brake, and fenders to accommodate an 8000 lb boat. Also the two  axles were on slides U-bolted to frame. 
  • J27 1985  had  to add another axle. It had 700 lbs of water absorbed in hull. By  having axles on slides, we saved him about $2200.One happy camper. 

more trailers

  • Trailer on right, before uprights we go up  with 2" galvanize pipe with 1 1/2" to telescope up and down with swivel  pad on top.On top of 2" we weld two 3/4" nuts to hold the 1 1/2" That is  a big bolt. 
  • Trailer frame before up rights installed
  • This picture is to show you the extensions with tires we build.We can build any length. We also build extensions for the tongue.These are built with 3x3 tubing,no wheels.  if they are  under 8 ft we can ship for under $50. 

Photo Gallery

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full keel sailboat trailer

You can enjoy the reliability and performance of a Load Rite trailer for your sailboat by specifying a custom trailer through your dealer.

We combine our modular pods with a keel board and winch stand options on any number of Load Rite or 5 STARR bunk models to conform to many sailboat applications. Each trailer must be specified on an individual basis. To get started, download the attached sailboat trailer specifications document before contacting your local Load Rite dealer . Your dealer will collect the model number and other details about your boat and work with our Customer Service and Engineering staff to come up with a recommendation and a quote for your Load Rite trailer.

All of these features are backed by the industry leading Load Rite 2 + 3 Warranty.

Specifications subject to change without notice.  Not responsible for publishing errors.

STANDARD FEATURES

full keel sailboat trailer

Galvanized Steel Frame

Tubular structural steel, fully hot dip galvanized, provides the ultimate finish for any boat trailer.  Tubular design shrouds wiring and brake lines from damage.  All machining and welding is performed before galvanizing, so there are no surfaces left unprotected from a boat trailer’s ultimate enemy: corrosion.

full keel sailboat trailer

Patented Aluminum I-Beam Frame

Patented designs offer many features that add functionality to a great look.  Integrated wire gutter beneath the top flange securely protects wiring and brakelines.  Models to 7,300 lbs. capacity feature a captured fastener channel along the bottom flange offering invisible mounting points for other features.  Web mounted crossbars strengthen the overall frame assembly.

full keel sailboat trailer

Galvanized Crossbars and Tongue

full keel sailboat trailer

Torsion Axles

Torsion axles provide independent suspension, exceptional rigidity, corrosion resistance, and a far superior ride to any leaf spring suspension.  Available on most models.

full keel sailboat trailer

Greaseable Hubs

Trailer with peace of mind knowing that you’ve inspected the condition and topped off the lubricant level in each hub of your trailer.

full keel sailboat trailer

Disc Brakes (Where Installed)

This trailer is equipped with disc brakes (where installed).  Load Rite recommends disc brakes on all wheels where available.  Disc brakes are self-adjusting and self-cleaning and require minimal maintenance in order to continue to deliver top performance.  Follow maintenance tips in your Owners Manual for more detailed instructions.

full keel sailboat trailer

DOT Rated Tires and Lighting

All Load Rite original equipment tires and lighting components are fully DOT approved.

full keel sailboat trailer

Balanced Wheels 13″ and Larger

CounterAct Wheel Bead Balancing is now included on all 13″ and larger wheel assemblies as a standard feature.  The wheels dynamically balance during each use. Visit counteractbalancing.com for more information.

full keel sailboat trailer

Aluminum Diamond Plate Fenders

A stylish design combined with extreme durability.  Standard on all single axle models with 13″ and larger wheels.

full keel sailboat trailer

Heat-Shrunk Sealed, Concealed Wiring

Standard equipment on all trailers 17′ and longer except welded frame models.

full keel sailboat trailer

Adjustable Carpeted Bunks

Traditionally known as V-bunks, this system offers both high strength and a wide range of adjustability.  Out of adjustment?  There are shorter and taller bolster brackets available in many heights.

full keel sailboat trailer

A winch is standard equipment on all boat and PWC models.  Capacity and features vary by application.

full keel sailboat trailer

Tongue Jack

Tongue jacks are standard equipment on all Load Rite Elite models 90″ wide and wider except two-place PWC models, all 5 STARR models, and all UT, EQ, and CH models.  Appearance and specifications vary by application.  Tongue jacks are optional on all other models.

Load Rite Trailers NATM Certified

NATM Certified

Each year Load Rite trailers undergo a detailed inspection process in order to earn the right to proudly display this certification on products we manufacture.

full keel sailboat trailer

NMMA / NATM Certified

full keel sailboat trailer

2 Plus 3 Years Coupler to Taillight Warranty

Load Rite’s premiere warranty exclusive to our Elite line of trailers.

full keel sailboat trailer

102″ Overall Width (96″ and Wider Models)

Add extra width to standard 96″ wide trailers.

Load Rite SWING TONGUE

Swing Tongue

Applications are limited by trailer capacity and tongue length.  Not available on models exceeding 6,000 lbs. capacity.  Consult with a dealer.

full keel sailboat trailer

Radial Tires

Smoother riding and longer wear life than many bias-ply tires.  A highly recommended upgrade.  Available for 13″ and larger wheels.

Load Rite Split Star aluminum wheel

Aluminum Wheels

A stylish option available with bias-ply or radial tires for most models in 12″, 13″, 14″, 15″ and 16″ sizes.

full keel sailboat trailer

Spare Tire and Carrier

The most important option to consider, every trailer should have a spare tire readily available.  Consult dealer for recommended bracket for individual application.

full keel sailboat trailer

Vault® Hubs

Vault® – The VAULT® “Hybrid Lubrication System” uses a semi-fluid oil in a pressurized chamber to give you the ultimate in wheel bearing lubrication and protection. At ambient temperatures the oil is thick with a viscosity approaching grease. As the bearing temperature rises during towing, the VAULT’s Hybrid Oil thins out replenishing the bearings with lubricant and dissipating heat. No inspection, no maintenance and no service required.  *Vault® hubs require Dexter axle.  Vault® and Kodiak® stainless disc brakes cannot be combined.

Consult a dealer to confirm application.

Brakes on All Axles

Important Safety Issue – Brake Requirements   

Brake laws vary by state and require dealers to sell trailers that comply with the brake laws of the state where the trailer will be registered.  This is a very important safety issue .  For full information contact the appropriate state Motor Vehicle Department.  As always, Load Rite recommends brakes on all axles where available.

KODIAK STAINLESS STEEL DISC BRAKES

Stainless Steel Disc Brakes

Optional stainless steel brakes available for most 14″, 15″ and 16″ wheel applications. Can be used with surge and electric over hydraulic actuators.*

May require optional axle installation.  Check with your local dealer before ordering.

full keel sailboat trailer

Stainless Brakelines

A valuable upgrade to any trailer, but especially those to see service in coastal regions with salt water exposure.

full keel sailboat trailer

Electric Over Hydraulic Brakes

EOH brakes offer electric in-cab control of standard hydraulic disc brakes.  Requires in-cab controller and 7-pin round electrical connection to the tow vehicle.

full keel sailboat trailer

LED Lighting

LED lights offer far greater reliability than incandescent fixtures.  Long-lasting and waterproof design make these lights ideal for any trailer application.

full keel sailboat trailer

2″ by 6″ Bunks

Marine grade carpet over 2″ x 6″ dimensional lumber.

full keel sailboat trailer

Plastic Bunk Covers

These multi-purpose covers provide a smooth surface to help a metal-hulled boat or pontoon to slide easier when launching and loading.  They also offer an insulating barrier to help prevent corrosion for metallic hulled craft.  Protect your aluminum hull.

Highly recommended for metal-hulled boats and pontoon applications.  Not recommended for gel-coat, plastic, or painted metal hulls.

full keel sailboat trailer

Steady Rest

Carpeted bunk section positioned above and perpendicular to the trailer tongue.  Provides an extra resting and balance point, and helps prevent keel contact with the tongue when loading in certain ramp conditions.

SIDE GUIDES ON SINGLE AXLES

Carpeted Side Guides

Standard on most skiff and jon models.

Load Rite Trailer Drop Tongue Jack

Drop-Style Tongue Jack

An upgraded jack that provides greater capacities and fast setup with no need to swivel.

full keel sailboat trailer

Tongue jacks are recommended on all trailers.  Appearance and specifications vary by application.  Tongue jacks are optional on all models where not original equipment.

full keel sailboat trailer

Rubber Fenders

Rubber fenders are intended for use on dealer yard trailers.  Yard trailers need the flexibility to adapt to many different hull shapes without imparting any damage in the process.  Rubber fenders minimize the possibility of damage should the fender contact the boat hull.

full keel sailboat trailer

Sailboat 5S-213600VT

full keel sailboat trailer

McGregor Sailboat

26 McGregor Sailboat on LR-AB25T6000102LT2 with modifications.

full keel sailboat trailer

Marshall-Sanderling

Marshall-Sanderling on a modified 182800102VT.

full keel sailboat trailer

Muscugos 18

Muscugos 18 on Load Rite 18240096VT with dealer installed support system.

full keel sailboat trailer

Stuart 19, similar to Rhodes 19, on a 5S-17220090VW.

full keel sailboat trailer

On a custom fit 222650VSGG0.

full keel sailboat trailer

On a custom fit pod trailer.

full keel sailboat trailer

Pearson 22 2

full keel sailboat trailer

Warranty Information

Owners manual.

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My Cruiser Life Magazine

7 Best Trailerable Sailboats for Cruising

Many sailors balk at the idea of leaving their boat in the water at a marina. Slip fees are expensive, and maintenance bills get bigger the longer you leave a boat in the water. However, if you want a boat under 30 feet long, there are trailerable sailboats that will fit the bill.

Like any boat purchase, you’ll need to analyze precisely what kind of trailer sailer you want. Will a simple weekend sailboat suffice, or do you really need the best trailerable cruising sailboat you can find? 

Here’s a look at some of the pros and cons of the best trailerable sailboat. Plus, we’ll look at how to compare them for your purposes.

trailerable sailboat

Table of Contents

Best trailerable sailboats, easy to launch trailerable sailboats, quick setup time, towing weight, catalina 22/25 “pop-top”, com-pac horizon cat for classic coastal cruising, marshall sanderling — small, portable, classy, west wight potter 19 — the tiny go-anywhere sailboat, seaward 26rk with retractable lead keel, corsair f-24 trimaran – sporty sailing, macgregor 26m — maximum speed meets maximum living space, long-range cruising boats, 7 best trailerable boats – a recap, what’s the best trailerable sailboat for a cruise, trailerable sailboats faqs.

  • Catalina 22/25
  • Com-Pac Horizon Cat
  • Marshall Sanderling
  • West Wight Potter 19
  • Seaward 26RK
  • Corsair F-24 Trimaran
  • MacGregor 26M
BoatProsCons
Catalina 22/25 with Pop-TopStanding headroom when pop-top extended; Feels much larger than it is; Allows freedom of movement for cooking, changing, etcPop-top only provides headroom in small section of boat; Later models lacked this feature
Com-Pac Horizon CatWell built; Quick-rig system for fast & simple setup; Separate head; Space to loungeNo mention of cons
Marshall SanderlingEasy to sail & tow; Traditional charm; Fiberglass hull; Option for electric motorVery small for cruising; No galley; Toilet not enclosed
West Wight Potter 19Reputation for go-anywhere cruiser; Hotplate, sink & porta-potty packed in; Easy setup & towingExtremely tight quarters; No mention of cons
Seaward 26RKHigh quality construction; Retractable keel provides stability & shallow draft; Lots of amenitiesHeavy – 6,000 lb towing weight
Corsair F-24 TrimaranVery lightweight & easy to tow; Offers adrenaline-pumping performance sailingNot ideal for offshore/rough conditions
MacGregor 26MMassive interior space; Towable behind most vehicles; Fast powerboat & sailboat capabilitiesNot built for offshore use; Not appealing for hardcore sailors

We’ll get into more detail about each brand in my post today, so hang tight!

What Is a Trailerable Sailboat, Exactly?

For this article, the priorities for a trailerable sailboat are:

  • Easy to launch
  • Require minimum setup to launch and store
  • Lightweight enough to be towed by the average vehicle

Before you can really classify a sailboat as trailerable, you need to evaluate and narrow your search criteria. Truthfully, 50-plus-foot ocean-going sailboats are regularly put on trailers. But that’s done commercially, on a big rig, with special permits for oversized loads, and even led cars.  

That probably isn’t what most people mean when they think of a trailerable sailboat. But what is the priority here, the trailerable part or the sailboat part? Compromises are going to have to be made somewhere. 

If you’re looking at the 20-foot-and-under sailboat crowd, finding a trailerable example should not be hard. Most sailboats this size are designed for trailers anyway since they aren’t the sort of boats people want to pay to leave in a slip year-round.

Things get more interesting when you look at the 20 to 30-foot boats. In this class, there are stout ocean-going cruisers with deep keels and lightweight centerboard trailer sailboats designed from the get-go to be trailered by the average car or SUV. The differences between these boats are night and day.

Sailboats often have a hard time at boat ramps. First, deep keels mean that the trailer must extend farther into the water than the average boat ramp allows. This means the ramp needs to go back far enough, and the trailer tongue needs to be long enough not to swamp the car. 

If you have a boat like this, you’ll need to find the right boat ramps. Unfortunately, not all ramps are created equally. If your boat draws more than two or three feet on the trailer, you’re going to be limited to steep, paved, and high-quality boat ramps. Unfortunately, those aren’t standard features, so your cruising grounds are going to be limited.

Usually, ramps aren’t built steeply because they are often slippery. Your tow vehicle will need excellent traction and torque to pull your fully loaded boat out of a steep ramp. The steeper the ramp, the more trouble you’ll have. 

The alternative to finding steep ramps is to use a trailer tongue extender. This lets you get the trailer into deeper water without swamping the tow vehicle. But it also means that the ramp needs to extend deep enough. Many ramps end abruptly. Allowing your trailer to sink off the edge is an excellent way to get stuck or pop a tire.

Pick a boat as easy to launch and retrieve as a similarly sized powerboat to remove all of these boat ramp problems. The soft chines of most sailboats will always require a little more water, but a swing keel and the hinged rudder raised mean that the boat can sit low on the trailer bunks. That way, you only need one or two feet of water to launch, an easy feat at nearly every boat ramp you can find.

The next consideration for a sailboat to be portable enough to call it “trailerable” is the amount of time it takes to step the mast and get it ready to cruise. 

To accomplish this, you need a mast that can be stepped by a two-person team–maximum. Ideally, it will have some tabernacle hardware to enable one person to do the task for solo sailing.

There is an entire family of pocket cruisers that could ideally fit on trailers. But you won’t find the Fickas or the Falmouth cutters on my list, simply because they aren’t easy to launch or easy to rig. But, of course, they’re also too heavy for most vehicles to tow, which leads us to the final point of excluding them this trailable pocket cruiser’s list.

One of the most significant financial burdens the trailer sailer faces is their tow vehicle. You are all set if you already drive a two-ton dually diesel pickup truck. But if your daily driver is an SUV or light pickup, you need to think long and hard about the math of the towing equation. 

Whatever boat you buy cannot exceed the towing rating limits of your tow vehicle. If you don’t have a tow vehicle, you’ll need to buy one. This will double or triple the cost of getting a trailer sailer in most cases. For the same money, you may want to look at a boat that stays in the water at a traditional boat slip. For the cost of a trailer sailer and a tow vehicle, you can probably step into a nice boat that is larger and more comfortable than any towable.

If you have a tow vehicle, you need a light enough vessel for it to tow. Most modern SUVs tow less than 2,500 pounds. Anything more than 5,000 will require a full-size pickup. Remember that the tow weight isn’t just the boat’s displacement—it’s the empty hull weight, plus the weight of the trailer and any extra gear you need to pack into the boat. 

Finding a vessel that fits these limitations on weight isn’t easy. If the manufacturer’s goal is to make it towable, immediate limits are placed on the materials they can use. This means less seaworthiness since boats are built light and thin. As far as stability goes, lead keels are generally out, and water ballast systems or centerboards might be used instead. It doesn’t mean these boats aren’t safe and fun, but they aren’t designed for rough conditions, crossing oceans, or living on in the water full-time .

Trailerable sailboats are usually limited to the best paved ramps

7 Best Trailerable Cruising Sailboats

There are more trailerable sailboats out there than you might imagine. Here’s a look at seven popular options of all shapes and sizes to give you a taste of what you might want to take to sea.

The boats here are selected for their storage and living space. With these boats and a little outfitting, you can spend weeks gunk-holing in the Chesapeake Bay or island hopping the Bahamas. If you broaden your scope to include daysailers with no cabin space, there are countless more options.

One of the worst parts of a small trailerable sailboat or pocket cruiser is the lack of stand-up headroom. One clever solution that you’ll find on some weekend sailboat types is the pop-top. 

The pop-top is simply an area around the companionway hatch that extends upward on struts. So when you’re at the dock or anchor, you get standing headroom down below—at least right inside the pop-top.

You can build a canvas enclosure for your pop-top to use it in all weather. A pop-top makes your boat feel much larger than it is and allows you to move freely to cook or get changed down below or even do a nice boat bed area. 

Later models of the Catalina Sport 22 and Capri 22s lacked this cool pop-top feature, so if you want it, you’ll need to seek out an older model on the used market.

Com-Pac has been building small sailboats since the early 1970s. They currently sell two lines, each with various-sized boats. All are well built, and a majority of their boats are trailerable. 

Most interesting at the Com-Pac traditional catboats . The rigging is more straightforward than modern sloops, with only one large mainsail. Com-Pac boats come with a unique quick-rig system to make getting on the water fast and simple.

The Horizon Cat Coastal Cruising has a displacement of 2,500 pounds with a 2’2″ draft when the board is up. She has a separate head forward and space to lounge either topside or down below. The smaller Sun Cat has slightly few amenities but shaves off a few feet and pounds, making it easier to tow and it is one of these amazing small sailboats. Com-Pacs features stub keels, so their centerboard and hinged rudder do not take up space in the cabin.

On the sloop rig side, the Com-Pac 23 comes in a 3,000-pound traditional sailboat or a very interesting pilothouse. Both are incredibly livable for their size , with shallow two-foot-long fixed keels and high-quality construction.

Another option if you like catboats is the Marshall Sanderling. This salty 18-footer oozes traditional charm , all while being easy to sail and easier to tow. And while she has wooden boat lines, she has a modern laminated fiberglass hull.

The Sanderling has a 2,200-pound displacement, so tow weights will be around 3,000 pounds. At only 18-feet, she’s on the small side for cruising. The cuddy cabin has no galley, and the portable toilet is not enclosed. But that small size means a simple boat that’s easy to maintain and take anywhere. 

An electric motor package is an exciting option on this weekend sailboat!

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You can’t mention tiny trailer sailers without touching on the famous West Wight Potter . These 15 and 19-foot pocket cruisers have earned a worldwide reputation as the ultimate go-anywhere coastal cruiser.

The West Wight Potter 19 offers the most living space for staying aboard and cruising. So even though its dimensions are diminutive, this little boat packs a lot in. There’s a single burner hotplate and sink and a porta-potty tucked under a cushion. Yes, it’s tight—but the company claims the little boat can sleep five people. Any more than two will feel pretty crowded, however.

The boat comes standard with a mast-raising system that a single person can manage alone. It has a daggerboard for a shallow draft of a half-foot when the board is up. The total towing weight is around 1,500 pounds, which means nearly any car can tow a West Wight Potter.

This little-known trailer sailer is produced at the same Florida factory that makes Island Packet Yachts. That should give you a little bit of an idea of what sort of boat it is—trailerable, yes, but also high-quality, beautiful, and built for cruising. In other words, it’s one of the nicest all round pocket cruisers and it feels like a much larger boat.

The Seaward is easily the saltiest boat on this list . It’s beefy and seaworthy. Instead of a lightweight centerboard, Seaward fits the RK with a bulb-shaped retracting keel. Other big-boat items include a Yanmar diesel inboard motor and an enclosed head. The spacious cabin of the boat features a double berth and is ready for salt water cruising.

According to sailboatdata.com , the tow weight of the 26RK is 6,000 pounds. With the keel up, the draft is 1.25 feet.

Multihull sailors need not feel left out from the trailer sailer club and the pocket cruiser. Beyond the ubiquitous beach Hobie Cat, there are not many options for catamarans. But trimarans are uniquely suited to be towed.

Why? For one thing, performance oriented boats like trimarans are based on it being built light. There is no ballast—a trimaran’s stability comes from its two outer hulls. Additionally, the living space is entirely housed in the central hull–the outer floats are small and sometimes foldable. Finally, there are no keels on tris, so they are extremely shallow draft and perfect for trailering.

If you’re looking for adrenaline-pumping sporty and fun sailing, it’s impossible to beat what a trimaran will offer. Let’s not beat around the bush—most of the trailer sailers on this list have hull speeds around five knots. The Corsair has no such limits, routinely sailing at 15 knots or more .

The new Corsair 880 trimaran has an unloaded weight of 3,659 pounds. It is trailerable behind a big SUV or small pickup and is probably the most fun sailing option that is trailerable at all.

An even more portable option is the older Corsair F-24. It has a light displacement of under 2,000 pounds—so nearly any SUV can tow it.

MacGregor owns the market on trailerable motor sailers since they more or less created the product to fit the bill. The MacGregor 26 is not like other boats. The design combines a planing powerboat with a centerboard sailboat. Imagine scooting along at 20 knots or more when the wind is down or enjoying a sporty sail on a breezy day–in the same boat.

The entire boat is built from the ground up for towing and long-range sailing. So if you want a big sailboat that you can tow behind pretty much any SUV, the MacGregor has to be on your list. 

Depending on the model, the 26-foot-long boats have incredibly light dry weights of between 1,650 and 2,350 pounds. Considering the massive volume of the roomy cabin, the ability to tow such a large vessel opens up an entire world of opportunities for owners. 

It’s not all good news, of course. MacGregor owners love their boats, but they are built light and are not ideally suited for offshore cruising or rough weather. But in bays and for coastal sailing on nice days, few boats can get as much use as a MacGregor. 

The motorboat capability of the 26M and 26X might not appeal to hardcore sailors, but for those looking to maximize their use of the boat depending on the weather, their mood, or location, it makes a lot of sense. 

MacGregor shut down in 2015, but the daughter and son-in-law of the original owners took over production and renamed the boat the Tattoo 26 . The company will soon release a smaller version, the Tattoo 22 .

If the 26 is a bit big to make your list of best trailerable small sailboats, consider the smaller Powersailer 19. It’s nearly identical to the 26, just smaller and lighter.

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What Do You Want Your Trailer Sailer To Do?

After you’ve settled on how you will tow and launch your trailer sailer, now it’s time to dream about what you want it to do. Where will it take you? 

The beauty of a towable boat is that you can travel anywhere. A boat in the water might take weeks or months to move a few hundred miles. But if you can attach it to your car and do 65 mph on the interstate, you could sail on the Pacific on Monday, the Gulf of Mexico on Wednesday, and the Atlantic on Friday.

We can divide our trailerable sailboats into three groups – daysailers, weekenders, and cruisers.

These are designed with open cockpits and no space to sleep. This is a majority of the sub-22-foot boats on the market. They are designed to be launched, play for the day, and return to the ramp or dock.

A weekender will have rudimentary sleeping facilities. Think of it as a floating tent—it’s not a five-star hotel, but you can sleep under the stars or get out of the rain. Conceivably you could stay aboard indefinitely, but it doesn’t have much room for gear. So most people are ready to get off after a day or two. 

A cruising boat has sleeping, cooking, and toilet facilities built-in. These might be small and simple, but in any quantity, they mean you can disconnect from shore for a long time. Unfortunately, squeezing all of this into a tow-friendly package isn’t easy, and very few boats do it well. 

Trailer sailer adventures

BoatAdvantages
Catalina 22/25 “Pop-Top”– Standing headroom below deck
– Feels much larger than it is
– Freedom to move below deck
Com-Pac Horizon Cat– Simple catboat rigging 
– Quick-rig system
– Shallow 2′ draft
– Quality construction
Marshall Sanderling– Traditional charm
– Easy to maintain
– Electric motor option
West Wight Potter 19– Go anywhere reputation
– Packs in amenities
– Towable by any vehicle
Seaward 26RK– Quality construction
– Big boat features
– Retractable keel
Corsair F-24 Trimaran– Very light/easy to tow
– Shallow draft
– Fast performance
MacGregor 26M– Massive interior space
– Planing hull enables speed
– Towable by most SUVs

The best trailer sailor for your adventures will depend on many factors. Like any boat, whatever you decide on will be a compromise – boats always are. But there are plenty of choices out there, no matter what size your tow vehicle is and no matter what sailing adventures you have in mind.

What size sailboat is trailerable?

Even large yachts are routinely transported by towing across land, so the question is more of how big a sailboat can you tow? Your tow vehicle will be the limiting factor. The upper limit for most large SUVs and trucks is usually a sailboat around 26 feet long.

Sailboats are generally very heavily built, with ballast and lead keels. Sailboats specifically made to be trailer sailers are lighter. They may use drainable water ballast tanks instead of fixed ballast and have fewer fixtures and amenities.

To find the best trailer sailer, you need to balance the total tow weight, the ease of rig setup at the boat ramp, and the boat’s draft. Shallow draft boats with centerboards are the easiest to launch and retrieve.

Is a Hunter 27 trailerable?

No. The Hunter 27 is a one of those fixed-keel larger boats built from 1974 to 1984. The boat’s displacement is 7,000 pounds, not including trailer and gear. That alone makes it too heavy to tow by all but the beefiest diesel trucks. 

Furthermore, the fixed keels had drafts between 3.25 and 5 feet, all of which are too much for most boat ramps. In short, the standard Hunter Marine 27 is too big to tow for most people.

On the other hand, Hunter has made several good trailer sailers over the years. For example, the Hunter 240 and 260 were explicitly designed for trailering. They have drainable water ballast and shallow keel/centerboard drafts less than two feet. 

Is a Catalina 22 trailerable?

Yes, the Catalina 22 is easily trailerable and makes a wonderful weekend sailboat. In fact, there were over 15,000 Catalina 22s made and sold over the years. 

The boat’s displacement is 2,250 pounds, which means your total tow weight with trailer and gear will be under 3,000 pounds. This is within the capabilities of most mid to full-size SUVs and light trucks. Be sure to check your vehicle’s towing capacity, of course.

The centerboard on the Catalina 22 is another factor in its easy towing. With the board up, the boat draws only two feet. This makes it easy to float off the trailer at nearly any boat ramp. You should avoid fixed keel versions of the 22 for towing unless you have access to extra deep ramps. 

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Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

Can someone tell me why no other manufacturer makes pop tops? Those who have them, love them. Makes sense for head space with a trailerable boat too. Catalina stopped making them decades ago, yet people still swear by them. So, why isn’t there any newer models?

MacGregor put pop tops on many of its trailerables

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Trailerable Sailboats Comparison

Trailerable Sailboats Comparison | Life of Sailing

Trailerable sailboats come in a variety of shapes and sizes. These vessels can be used for everything from racing to offshore cruising.

In this article, we'll compare six of the most common trailerable sailboat types along with their uses. Additionally, we'll cover vessel design elements that distinguish different types of trailerable sailboats.

The most common types of trailerable sailboats include dinghies, racers, open-top cruising sailboats, pocket cruisers, coastal cruisers, and compact offshore sailboats. These vessels differ by size, rig type, hull type, and weight.

The information contained in this article was sourced from sailing guides and vessel identification records. Additionally, we took into consideration the opinions of sailors with experience on a variety of trailerable sailboats.

Table of contents

Defining Trailerable Sailboats

What distinguishes a trailerable sailboat from any other small cruising craft? The first and most obvious consideration is size. A trailerable sailboat has to meet the dimensional requirements set forth by the Department of Transportation. In other words, it must fit on a trailer that's small enough to travel on the road.

An additional consideration is weight. A trailerable sailboat should weigh less than around 7,000 pounds, as this is the upper towing limit for most typical Class C vehicles. Most trailerable sailboats can be towed behind a typical half ton pickup or SUV.

Additionally, most trailerable sailboats have a swing keel or centerboard. This makes it possible to rest a boat on a low trailer. Most displacement keels are simply too tall, though there are a few exceptions. The maximum trailer load height in most states is 14 ft, which a trailerable sailboat should clear without trouble.

Length is a consideration, though it's not as important as width. The maximum beam of a trailerable sailboat is 8 ft 6 in, as this is the limit for standard trailers on American highways. Typically, trailerable sailboats don't exceed 30 feet in length, as the length to beam ratio of a longer boat would lead to poor handling characteristics.

The final consideration is rigging. Due to height requirements, trailerable sailboats must have collapsible masts. Additionally, rudders and other items that extend beyond the hull must fold or stow in some manner.

Types of Trailerable Sailboats

Trailerable sailboats come in many varieties, weights, in sizes. These vessels are designed for specific uses, such as racing, cruising, fishing, or training. Here are the most common kinds of trailerable sailboats, along with what they're used for.

1. Dinghies

Dinghies are small, open sailing craft that usually don't exceed 15 feet in length. Dinghies are designed for use in protected waters. They're sometimes used to shuttle between an anchored sailboat and the shore. Dinghies are popular racing vessels, and many sailing schools use them for sailing instruction.

Popular Trailerable Dinghies:

  • Optimist “Optie” (7 ft 9 in LOA)
  • Minto (9 ft LOA)
  • Wayfarer (16 ft)

Trailerable racing sailboats are long and narrow. They're designed for speed and agility, not comfort or offshore cruising. These boats generally have a low profile, and they're often open-top and lack sleeping accommodations.

Racing sailboats are lightweight and easy to tow. That said, trailerable racing sailboats are designed for experienced sailors as they're easier to capsize in high winds. These vessels range in size from 15 feet to over 25 feet.

Popular Trailerable Racing Sailboats:

  • National 12 (12 ft)
  • Sunfish (13 ft 9 in)
  • Merlin Rocket (14 ft)

3. Open-Top Cruisers

Open-top cruising sailboats lack a cabin. However, these seaworthy craft are more than capable of coastal cruising in a variety of conditions. Many of these vessels are based on proven workboat designs that date back over a century. These vessels are ideal for harbor sailing and cruising on lakes.

Some people use open-top cruising sailboats for camping, as these traditional vessels are long enough to lay down a cot or sleeping bag. They make a great starter sailboat, as they're safe and easy to store in the garage or driveway.

Popular Trailerable Open-Top Cruisers

  • Norseboat (17 ft 6 in)
  • Bay Rider (20 ft)
  • Com-Pac Legacy (23)

4. Pocket Cruisers

Pocket cruisers are similar to coastal cruisers, though they're distinguishable by their size and amenities. Generally speaking, a pocket cruiser is a small sailboat (under 25 feet in length) that features a cabin, galley, self-draining cockpit, and other 'big boat' accommodations.

Pocket cruisers usually aren't designed for serious offshore cruising, but they are comfortable for extended coastal or inland voyages. They weigh more than racing vessels, as stability is a key aspect of their design. Pocket cruisers are popular because they offer impressive capabilities in a small package.

Popular Trailerable Pocket Cruisers

  • Sandpiper (15 ft)
  • Sanderling (18 ft)
  • West Wight Potter (19 ft)

5. Coastal Cruisers

Coastal cruisers are some of the most popular trailerable sailboats on the market. These vessels usually feature a cabin with a V-berth and a sink, though they occasionally include a head and a complete galley. Coastal cruisers are seaworthy enough for most near-shore and inland weather conditions.

Some adventurous sailors have taken coastal cruisers on extended bluewater voyages, though it's not particularly common. The size and sailing characteristics of these vessels is often not their greatest limiting factor.

There's only so many provisions you can store aboard a 22 to 25-foot sailboat, which is why coastal cruisers are generally considered impractical for offshore voyaging. Coastal cruisers handle well, and they're easy to sail, which is why this type of trailerable sailboat is popular in bays and harbors across the country.

Popular Trailerable Coastal Cruisers

  • Cal 20 (20 ft)
  • Catalina 22 (22 ft)
  • Hunter 22 (22 ft)

6. Compact Offshore Sailboats

Compact offshore sailboats are the rarest and most capable type of trailerable sailboat. These vessels are a big boat in a compressed package. They typically feature a long displacement keel, a wide beam, and a cramped but feature-filled cabin.

These vessels are true cruising boats inside and out. The cabins usually feature a full galley, standing headroom, ahead with a shower, a V-berth upfront, and provisions for navigation. Their rigging is strong enough to handle offshore weather conditions.

Compact offshore sailboats usually have the greatest displacement, as their deep draft and wide beam keep them stable in rolling seas. This also contributes to greater dry weight, which is why they can't be towed by small vehicles.

Vessels of this type are technically trailerable, as they meet the dimensional requirements to travel on the highway. That's said, moving one of these boats is difficult. Owners generally keep these vessels in the water or in dry storage most of the year to avoid the hazard and hassle of towing such a hefty boat.

Popular Compact Offshore Cruisers

  • Flicka 20 (20 ft)
  • Dana 24 (24 ft)
  • Nor'Sea 27 (27 ft)

The keel of a sailboat keeps it stable and tracking a straight course. Most trailerable sailboats have retractable keels of some variety, though some have fixed (permanently lowered) keels. Here are the most common types of trailerable sailboat keels in order of their popularity.

1. Centerboard

A centerboard is a form of retractable keel that's common on the smallest types of trailerable sailboats. A centerboard is essentially a long, thin blade that descends through a hole in the bottom of the boat.

Half of the centerboard remains inside the boat in a box called the 'centerboard trunk.' Centerboards are simple and easy to use, but the centerboard trunk takes up useful space in the cockpit or cabin.

2. Swing Keel

The swing keel is a type of retractable keel that eliminates the inconvenient centerboard trunk. A swing keel is a centerboard with a hinge on one end. It lives in a trunk, typically below the base of the hull, and swings down when in use.

Swing keels allow the sailboat to ride low on a trailer, which makes them a popular choice for pocket cruisers and trailer-sailers. Swing keels raise and lower using a  block and tackle system or a crank, usually located near the bilge or under a seat.

3. Fin Keel

Fin keels are less common on trailerable sailboats than they are on larger cruising boats. This type of keel is fixed to the bottom of the hull. A fin keel blade extends between 12 inches and 3 feet below the hull, and it occasionally includes a hydrodynamic bulb on the end. Fin keels are most often found on racing boats.

4. Semi-Displacement

Semi-displacement keels are long, fixed keels that run along the aft 2/3 of the hull. This type of keel is designed for cruising boats that value speed but still want to retain the stability and seaworthiness of a full keel.

Some trailerable sailboats have semi-displacement keels, especially if they're designed for offshore use. The benefits of a semi-displacement keel over a full keel are negligible on a trailer, as both types have a deep draft and high ride height.

5. Displacement (Full Keel)

Displacement keels are traditional and highly seaworthy. This type of keel runs across the entire length of the hull, usually reaching its deepest point at the stern. Displacement keels are found on vessels that are designed for offshore use.

Displacement keels are uncommon on trailerable sailboats, as they're long and cause the vessel to ride high on a trailer. Additionally, the type of vessel that uses a displacement keel is often wide and heavy, which isn't ideal for trailering.

Collapsable rigging is a hallmark of trailerable sailboats. The best trailerable sailboats have collapsible masts that stow securely across the deck. These vessels typically have a fork-shaped mast boot that acts as a hinge, allowing sailors to easily lower and secure the mast.

Many trailerable sailboats are gaff rigged. Though the traditional gaff rig is more complex than a modern Bermuda rigs, it uses a shorter and stronger mast. This has obvious benefits for trailerable boats, as the mast and spars store more easily.

Trailer Types

There are multiple types of trailers used to tow and store sailboats. The most common kind of sailboat trailer is the single-axle trailer. These trailers have one wheel on each side, and you can tow them with a standard Class IV trailer hitch.

Larger sailboats, such as heavy offshore cruising vessels, require something a bit sturdier. These vessels typically ride on dual-axle trailers, which have two wheels on each side.

Larger trailers, such as those with two axles, connect to a standard trailer hitch or to a fifth wheel hitch, which is mounted in the bed of a truck. Fifth-wheel trailers are the least common type of sailboat trailer.

Sailboat Weight and Towing

Dry weight is an important factor to consider when comparing trailerable sailboats. It's important to avoid confusing displacement and weight, even though both values use the same units.

Displacement is the weight of the water displaced by the vessel, whereas dry weight determines how much the boat weighs with its tanks empty and bilge dry. The ideal towing weight of a typical trailerable sailboat is between 3,000 and 5,000 pounds. This weight is within the towing capabilities of most trucks and full-size SUVs.

Larger trailerable vessels, such as many coastal cruisers and offshore trailer-sailers, can weigh 7,500 pounds or more. A sailboat of this magnitude requires a heavy-duty towing vehicle, such as a 1-ton diesel pickup truck.

Best Trailerable Sailboat for Cruising

For protected cruising, such as in a bay or after the river, it's hard to overlook the Catalina 22. This iconic fiberglass sailboat is known for easy handling and fun sailing characteristics. It has a comfortable cabin with plenty of room for a weekend on the water.

For more extensive cruising, especially offshore, the best trailerable sailboat is the Nor'Sea 27. This vessel is ideal due to its spacious interior and full accommodations. It has a full keel for stability, along with a head, galley, and sleeping arrangements down below.

Best Trailerable Sailboat for Weekend Sailing

The ideal weekend cruiser should be easy to tow in fast to rig, as larger and more complex vessels take too much time and effort the launch. With this in mind, it's a tie between the Wayfarer dinghy and the West Wight Potter. Both of these vessels are well-designed, fast to launch, and fun to sail.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Trailer Sailing a 25' Full Keel

  • Thread starter Persistence
  • Start date Jan 24, 2017
  • Forums for All Owners
  • Trailer Sailors

Persistence

Persistence

Is anyone here trailering a 25' full keel boat and launching from boat ramps? If so, how long should the tongue extension be?  

dscribner

Percy, Doesn't sound like fun to me. You going to do this regularly or once a season? I've seen/heard of folks using a tow strap to do it. As Dava390 about that one! Doesn't always go as planned and sometimes costs you a rudder. Other that that, a 12 foot extension is probably the most you could deal with. That's about 16 feet of tubing with a 4 foot overlap. Some have the spare tire mount swing down to support the tongue. Neat idea.  

svchickadee

This company builds a good trailer. You might give them a call.. http://triadtrailers.com/triad-trailer-gallery/sailboat-trailers/sailboats-25-30-feet/1321-2/  

Brian S

Persistence, I don't see this as any more problem of trailer launching any fixed keel boat. In this case, it is not so much a problem with "full keel," and more a problem of depth of keel. I have helped trailer launch J/24, Santana 20, and Impulse 21 boats, which all have about a 4' draft fixed fin keel. (Your CD 25 looks to me like a 25D as opposed to the original 25. CD25 lists 3' draft, CD25D lists 3.5'.) Most of the trailers for these fixed keep boats have a 25' long tongue extension and an auxiliary "jockey wheel" near the front of the trailer. It's all about getting the boat in deep enough to float off the trailer. Many people who don't have an extending tongue will have a jockey wheel, and will strap launch the trailer, where a towing strap is connecting trailer and tow vehicle. A deeper/steeper ramp will make launching easier, as the trailer won't have to go in the water as far, but the increased angle between the trailer and water surface can make retrieving more difficult on a steep ramp, because starting off, the bow will be at the bow stop, but as the boat settles on the trailer as it pulls out, it can often move back. (Had this problem with the Santana almost every time. He has like a 3' tray for the bottom of the 2' long keel bottom to sit on. As long as the keel sits more than 1/2 way on the tray, we can get it forward to where it needs to be on the tray.)  

Karyon

Nice video, One thing that makes it easier is the rollers instead of bunks.  

Karyon said: Nice video, One thing that makes it easier is the rollers instead of bunks. Click to expand

JRacer

Towed my J24 about 7,000 miles a year when campaigning. More often than not, we craned it on and off. But, there were several times I had to ramp launch and retrieve it. I used a tow strap hooked on my hitch ball and looped around the trailer tongue. My trailer had a set of keel guides to guide the keel to the center of the trailer and I made them removable with bolts to allow me easy access to the keel for working on it. My trailer was patterned off the J24 Triad trailers. I preferred not to ramp launch/retrieve but it's definitely doable just takes a little longer and you run some risk of banging up the keel which was a big factor for us..  

LeeandRick

Brian S said: . A deeper/steeper ramp will make launching easier, as the trailer won't have to go in the water as far, but the increased angle between the trailer and water surface can make retrieving more difficult on a steep ramp, because starting off, the bow will be at the bow stop, but as the boat settles on the trailer as it pulls out, it can often move back. (Had this problem with the Santana almost every time. He has like a 3' tray for the bottom of the 2' long keel bottom to sit on. As long as the keel sits more than 1/2 way on the tray, we can get it forward to where it needs to be on the tray.) Click to expand

LeeandRick, nope. I don't see the benefit of that addition from the video over an extension or a strap for launching. It would be difficult to back and steer that. Do truckers ever back down a tandem? (I don't know.) Where the heck do they store it? Yes, the front of the trailer needs a robust rolling wheel (plastic wheels on a trailer jack don't seem good enough to roll well to me) for a long extension or a strap. Karyon, I don't think rollers make it any easier than bunks to launch sailboats. Powerboats, yes, sailboats, no. Most sailboats are not a flat run aft from amidships the way power boats are (well, new style sleds are, but most recreational sailors don't have a sled inspired trailerable boat) so the deeper midships portion of the boat still needs to float over the aft rollers. My roller pod trailer is like this, and trust me, the boat isn't rolling on or off with a tug of a dock line or winch strap. It floats on and off. I did winch on my Harpoon 4.6, but it's a dinghy and it's supposed to have the keel strip riding on trailer rollers. And it's not a rockered, belly-like hull. Being a planing capable hull, I guess it's more flat aft like a powerboat, so...  

Thanks for all your input.  

Brian S said: Karyon, I don't think rollers make it any easier than bunks to launch sailboats. Powerboats, yes, sailboats, no. Most sailboats are not a flat run aft from amidships the way power boats are (well, new style sleds are, but most recreational sailors don't have a sled inspired trailerable boat) so the deeper midships portion of the boat still needs to float over the aft rollers. Click to expand

Attachments

IMG_0609[1].JPG

Crazy Dave Condon

I use to with my equipment launch up to 36 foot sailboats off long ramps and even larger ones with hydraulic trailers and even off tractor trailers. The key with any launch and retrieval of a keel boat is the trailer, the proper tow vehicle which to do the job with, experience and of course the ramp itself. First going into an unknown ramp area, you need to know the length of the ramp, any overhead wires, putting the mast up if necessary which will require a crane and so forth. Experience and safety are most important. So call and check out what ramps will work for you. In addition, never attempt to launch from a bulkhead or bridge like I use to if you do not have experience. My key over a bridge was long straps attached to a single point (not a spreader style) behind the mast, straps tied together at the railing but not to the railing, no wind, power boat standing by in the water and of course with the state hwy department permission which many came out to see this. This is for the experienced only. You catch my drift On a ramp, I use to have a long wheeled dolly attached to the tongue and with safety chains attached to the tow vehicle and trailer. First on the ramp I backed down to the water, chocked all wheels and left the safety chains on. I backed to the chocks and when fast, then detached with the trailer but still leaving safety chains attanched and of course I knew my ramps. Then detached the safety chains, moved forward and attached the long wheeled dolly extension attaching the safety chains as well. Then pulled up slowly off the chocks removing the chocks. The forward supports on the trailer were lowered and guiding the trailer into the water. When the boat started to float off the trailer, supports were lowered when needed. The key here was the forward supports lowered so the boat would not catch on the trailer. I had another fellow in the water or boat upwind with a line holding the boat so it would be kept straight or in parallel with the trailer particularly with a wing keel so the keel would not catch. Sometimes with no wind, I would abruptly stop but going slow and the boat would slide off. Reversed the procedure for retrieval. Had to do this at Kerr Lake/Buggs Island along the VA/NC border as there was no travel lifts on the lake due regs. Largest boat was a either a 45 or 49. Again experience. Also launched over bulkheads too. I always made every crane to extend supports even though the crane operator did not think so. I watched another fellow once who did not have the crane to extend the outriggers or supports and the crane tilted over. Threw that inexperienced operator off jumping into the seat and released as appropriately the hoist. Saved the boat and crane from and accident. Called the company and was thanked for that. In additiuon when trailering, permits needed for each state if over width, over length, over height and so on regardless which state the boat trailer is in. Also you have to be carful when turning so the boat and trailer will not catch particularly with mast on top of the boat. I could go on but again exerecise good judgement focusing on safety is the guide. .  

Thanks for your reply Chris Mac. Would you happen to have a pic of your extension set up?  

Persistence said: Thanks for your reply Chris Mac. Would you happen to have a pic of your extension set up? Click to expand

DSC_0258.JPG

chris mac said: These are the best pics I got right now. That centre channel has w smaller diameter tube steel inside. The hitch is on the smaller one. To extend, block trailer tires,pull one keeper pin, and slowly pull forward. After 10' or so, there is another hole for the pin. In the spring I'll take a better pic if I remember Click to expand

Jerry Zitterkopf

Jerry Zitterkopf

I currently use 2 winches on the trailer at the bow to get the position right every time no matter the ramp angle. One winch pulls in the normal direction the other lifts the bow. By lifting the bow the boat is achieving the same angle as the trailer, and when you pull it to the bow stop with the forward pull winch it is right where it needs to be when pulling out of the water. I'm pulling our boat out in a couple of days and will get some pictures (maybe video if someone is around). The 2 winch idea works on our O'Day 23 and some other smaller boats we have had, but not sure about larger displacement, especially wide stern, boats. I like to put the boat in the same place to avoid pressure points from the bunks and the same tongue weight every time. I was hoping to finish fabrication of a better way to attain the same location with one winch. The flu this weekend has slowed my progress. This involves a pivot point at the forward edge of the keel with all boat supports forward of the pivot mounted on this pivoting structure including the winch. This all pivots up as you pull out of the water and the stern settles on to the fixed bunks. Once clear of the water you pin this structure to the main trailer frame for travel. There are many more good benefits to this, like doing away with the winch, keel guides that remain parallel to the water line and shallower float off/on depths. Once I get video and pictures I will open up a discussion here to refine the idea. This needs to be an open source project since there are so many trailers and boat designs. I know most of you don't care but there are a few of us seeking the perfect trailer.  

sail sfbay

Persistence said: Is anyone here trailering a 25' full keel boat and launching from boat ramps? If so, how long should the tongue extension be? Click to expand

How trailerable is a Cape Dory 25? - Cruisers & Sailing Forums

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Sail Far Live Free

Sail Far Live Free

Camping on a keel - trailer sailers for cruisers.

Here's a throwback to , our Helms 25 and very first boat
The end!

Great compendium Kevin. Also a sensible choice for those who've done the conventional cruising and are looking at phase 2 options. All the best.

While I'm not sure how old this post is, Ill add another boat to consider using your criteria above. We have a S2 7.9 Gran Slam which we cruise locally in Milwaukee and also take a few weeks out of the summer and trailer to better cruising grounds. We pull it with a Chevy Suburban and are quite please with having a performance boat that is straight forward to launch and rig. The beam is actually over legal limit at 9', but these boats have been trailered extensively to one design regattas over many years and I have never heard of anyone being stopped by the hi way revenuers.

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28-08-2023, 18:00  
Boat: C&C 30 Mk I
a small full-keel sailboat (a , 4', 5000 lbs) for low-key local yacht club on a lake. But I hit a snag. The club only has a launch , no crane, so they launch only by . But now I'm told (by the seller) that even if I find a perfect for this (located 200 km away), you can't actually float a small full-keel off a trailer -- it has to be craned.

Is he right? If so, then (odd as it sounds), it seems the boat can't go in the yacht club's lake. They have no crane. (Heck, they're not even allowed to use their gin pole any more -- the was too much.) I touched bases with a yacht club admin, and he doesn't know a work-around either. Any thoughts?
28-08-2023, 19:51  
Boat: Tartan 3800
Is he right? If so, then (odd as it sounds), it seems the boat can't go in the yacht club's lake. They have no crane. (Heck, they're not even allowed to use their gin pole any more -- the was too much.) I touched bases with a yacht club admin, and he doesn't know a work-around either. Any thoughts?
28-08-2023, 20:39  
28-08-2023, 21:26  
Boat: 1962 Columbia 29 MK 1 #37
like a Dana 24 on a trailer with an extender (a long bar that is added to the tongue) which is carried on the tralier with the boat. In fact there was one in posted here some years back and that was how they launched it down there as they trailered it around the peninsula. You'll need a good tow vehicle with good clearance to keep the out of the water for it too.
28-08-2023, 21:27  
Boat: C&C 30 Mk I
isn't quite as deep; and when I talked with him, he was leery about recommending that approach. Says it's borderline even with his boat.
28-08-2023, 21:32  
Boat: Douglas 32, duh...32'
some ways out and then winching from your until the boat floated but the trailer didn't.

Personally I launched my Douglas 32 off a which had been pulled out of its shed and into deep water. The was all , but ballasted so it didn't float. The "trick" was that the town had a which the front end loader could get on to pull me out of the shed.
Write back if you don't get better ideas from others, and I can go into all the weird details of my situation launching in Prince Edward Island.
28-08-2023, 21:48  
Boat: 1962 Columbia 29 MK 1 #37
29-08-2023, 00:55  
Boat: Volkscruiser
a Whitby folk boat they are awesome. We owned one in Kingston and had some great adventures in her.
Cheers
29-08-2023, 07:47  
sailboat. Try to use one of those and -- like Fore and Aft mentioned -- your trailer falls off the end of the ramp. If the bottom is hard enough, and the drop-off is slight, that's not a big deal. Otherwise, it can be catastrophic.


Good luck.
29-08-2023, 08:40  

Is he right? If so, then (odd as it sounds), it seems the boat can't go in the yacht club's lake. They have no crane. (Heck, they're not even allowed to use their gin pole any more -- the insurance was too much.) I touched bases with a yacht club admin, and he doesn't know a work-around either. Any thoughts?

full keel sailboat trailer

29-08-2023, 20:03  
Boat: C&C 30 Mk I
29-08-2023, 20:09  
Boat: C&C 30 Mk I
, all! It's pretty clear that: a) It isn't hopeless; b) But, I really need to get a firm idea of the local yacht club's ramp in regards steepness, , and length.
29-08-2023, 22:09  
Boat: Dean 440 13.4m catamaran
stepped and some are stepped

are you planning to tow the boat far and if so, is stepped on ?

(even putting deck stepped mast up / down every weekend is going to be a fair job !)

cheers,
30-08-2023, 01:18  
Boat: Volkscruiser
around and the St Lawrence seaway. Cheers
30-08-2023, 01:24  
Boat: Athena 38
First 305 from a trailer for many years. The draft was 5ft 10 I think. This was slightly different to your case because it was tidal waters and we would position the trailer at low tide and wait.

The point i wanted to make is that recovery is much more difficult than launching. The boat floats in level to the water and then moves perpendicularly till the keel touches. It then rotates about the point of contact through the angle of the slip. In my case this was 7 degrees at a radius of 16ft. The bow of the boat moves a lot! I had the boat craned on to the trailer and then built a cradle around it, taking the rotation in account. For me it was easy as it took about three hours. For you it will happen quickly. You could arrange the flat of keel to be supported at the angle of the slip but that might make boat adopt an uncomfortable position ashore.

Have you considered hiring a mobile crane ?
 
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At Loadmaster Trailer Company LTD, we specialize in custom boat trailers that are specifically designed to support your craft’s hull and match your towing lifestyle. Our full keel powerboat and lobster boat trailers will provide the perfect amount of support whether your boat is 17 or 50 feet in length, and will protect the hull from damage while the trailer is in use.

Full keel boat trailers require special consideration to ensure that they meet your needs perfectly. All of our custom trailers come with a strategic bunking style, a keel rest and keel guide that are made to order and built specifically to support your craft’s hull. The unique hulls of full keel boats and lobster boats require us to place additional bunking for added support. Our bunks are made from specially-treated lumber that are routed at the corners and then covered in marine carpet for proper support and hull safety.

Your trailer’s customization doesn’t stop at the bunking. We must take other factors into consideration to ensure maximum performance. For example, your craft’s keel, strake locations, intakes, thru-hulls and overall hull design must be carefully considered prior to the trailer manufacturing process to ensure that the boat is secure during transport and to prevent hull damage while the trailer is in use.

If your boat’s keel is truly unique, we will include a keel rest and/or a keel guide, which will be structurally welded onto the trailer itself. This will make the loading and launching process as easy as possible. If you plan to launch your lobster boat in the water, we can build a structural tongue extension to increase the amount of water depth to make the loading and launching process easier. We can also construct custom side guides, build a notchback end configuration if your boat happens to be a single board engine or provide you with an open back or fly back configuration if you need to protect twin props during the loading and launching process. If you plan to have your keeled boat hoisted on and off your Loadmaster trailer, we will build you sling pockets to allow the straps to be removed from underneath the hull.

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Four Trailer-Sailers And the Keel/Launch Problem

The paceship 23, american 26, yankee pacific dolphin 24, and aquarius 23 represent different solutions to the problem of easy launching.

In the early 1970s, when the fiberglass sailboat revolution was in full swing, so were the so-called swing keels. Three years after Richard Nixon was elected president, partly on the promise of ending the Vietnam War, U.S. planes still were bombing Cambodia, hippies and peaceniks were marching and both were flashing the V sign. In 1971 Sylvia Plath published “The Bell Jar,” Louis Arm­strong died, the crews of Apollo 14 and 15 landed on the moon, cigarette advertisements were banned from television, and Joe Frazier outpointed Muhammad Ali to retain his world heavyweight boxing title.

On the domestic level, Americans were taking their leisure time more seriously than ever, taking to the highways in RVs and to the waterways in all sorts of new fiberglass boats. Magazines devoted exclusively to sailing began to appear. One of the most popular type of boats was the “trailer­sailer,” relatively light-displacement sloops with centerboards and swing keels, that could be stored in the back­yard or driveway, towed behind the family station wagon and launched in about 45 minutes. Trailer-sailers promised yacht-style accommodations at an affordable price-in terms of both initial investment and annual upkeep.

Trailer-sailers never really disappeared from the sailing scene, but they haven’t been exactly an exploding market force either. But becuase we see indications that trailer-sailers are showing signs of increased interest from boat buyers, we thought we’d take a look at four early-and mid-19702 designs.

The Ballast Problem

For stability, a sailboat must have an underwater appendage such as a keel or centerboard, and ballast. Both are at odds with the concept of an easily trailerable boat that can be launched at most ramps. A deep fixed keel is untenable. One solution is to design a long, shallow keel, as seen on many Com-Pac boats, and older models such as the O’Day22. Unfortunately, windward performance suffers because there is little leading edge and foil shape to provide lift.

During the last few years, several builders have experimented with water ballast in the hull and centerboards for lift. Notable designs include the MacGregor 26, Hunter 23.5 and 26, and the new Catalina 25. The idea is to dump the ballast on haul-out to minimize trailering weight, especially important given the small size of the average car these days. The drawback, as we see it, is that the water ballast works best when it is well outboard, which is the case on race boats with port and starboard ballast tanks. Trailer-sailers with shallow ballast tanks on centerline can’t obtain the same righting moments because of the short righting arm. Plus, saltwater is not very dense, just 64 pounds per cubic foot (62.4 lbs. for fresh), compared to lead at about 708 lbs. While waterballast may be a viable option for lake and protected-water sailors, we don’t think it’s the best solution.

Looking back at the Paceship PY 23, American 26, Yankee Dolphin24, and Aquarius 23-we can examine several other approaches to the same problem.

Paceship Yachts was originally a Canadian builder, located in Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia (it was later bought by AMF of Waterbury, Connecticut). One of its first boats was the popular East Wind 24, introduced in 1963. The PY 23, designed by John Deknatel of C. Raymond Hunt Associates, was developed in 1974 in response to the trailer-sailer boom.

Paceship PY 23

An early brochure describes the PY 23 as “a second generation refine­ment of the trailerable concept which eliminates the awkwardness in han­dling and sailing often present in the early trailerables.” Indeed, the boat was rated 18.0 for IOR Quarter Ton and 16. 9 under the MORC rule. Mod­ern looks were derived largely from the flat sheer and reverse transom.

Instead of the more common swing keel, in which all of the boat’s ballast hangs on a single pivot pin, Deknatel gave the PY 23 a 40-pound center­board that retracts into a 900-pound “shallow draft lineal keel.” This arrangement eliminates a trunk intruding into the cabin space, and places the majority of ballast a bit lower (it draws 1′ 9″ board up) than in boats, such as the Aquarius 23, in which the ballast is simply located under the cabin sole. The downside is a bit more draft, which means you need to get the trailer that much deeper to float the boat on and off. (We once owned a Catalina 22, which draws 2′ 0″ keel up, and often had to use a trailer tongue extension-built in-to launch and haul out.) Based on our experience, any draft under 2 feet should be relatively easy to trailer and launch. Difficulties seem to mount exponentially with every inch of added draft.

Like most trailer-sailers, the PY 23 has an outboard rudder that kicks up for beaching.

Recognizing that trailer-sailers are not built for rugged conditions, and that by necessity they are not big boats, we herewith list some of the more common owner complaints: no back­rests in cabin, barnacles in center­board well, not enough room in head, not an easily trailerable boat, rudder rot, and poor ventilation in forepeak.

On the plus side, owners say the boat is quick, well built, balances well, has good-quality mast and rigging, a comfortable cockpit, and a livable interior.

In all, we think this is a good example of the trailer-sailer. We like the keel/centerboard arrangement, even though it adds a few precious inches to board-up draft. It sold in 1974 for $8,150 base. Today, it would sell for about $5,100. A superior choice in our book.

Yankee Pacific Dolphin 24

Yankee Yachts of Santa Ana, California, was a major builder during the 1970s, known mostly for its IOR boats. The Pacific Dolphin 24, designed by Sparkman & Stephens, is a classic­looking boat, not unlike the more familiar S&S-designed Tartan 2 7. It was built between about 1969 and 1971, when it was replaced by the Seahorse 24, designed by Robert Finch, who helped design the immensely successful Catalina 27.

The reason, we surmise, was that the Dolphin has a long keel drawing 2′ 10″, and though the company initially thought it would appeal to trailer­sailers, it’s draft, plus 4,250-pound displacement, made it difficult to launch and retrieve. In contrast, the Seahorse drew 1′ 8″, displaced 2,800 pounds, and has a scabbard-type removable rudder.

Yankee Pacific Dolphin

The Dolphin has 1,750 pounds of ballast, all in the keel. The attached rudder makes this boat a bit more rugged than most trailer-sailers, and its overall quality, including extensive teak joinerwork below, places it in a different category.

Owners report very few problems with the Dolphin other than a comparatively large turning radius, and cramped living quarters; most have only good things to say. An Oregon owner said, “Using a 3/4-ton pickup with a 390 engine we go uphill at 30 mph and down at 55. It takes us a couple of hours to rig and get under­way, but it sure beats paying slip fees.” He also cites the Dolphin’s speed, saying he keeps pace with a Cal34, trounces a Balboa 26 and Catalina 27, and has only “lost” to a San Juan 21 going upwind. A Washington owner says she is very seakindly, with just the right amount of helm, though a bit tender due to narrow beam. Most owners use a 6-hp. outboard in the well, though one said he opted for a 15-hp. outboard for better perfor­mance, and because it can charge the batteries. Construction is reported as heavy.

Yankee Pacific Dolphin

In 1971 the boat sold new for $5,995.Prices now are around $7,500, which for an original owner would have made it the best investment of these four boats. While we have always liked the Dolphin, we don’t view it as suitable for regular trailering. More likely, you’d keep it at a slip during the sailing season, parking it at home on its trailer after haul-out.

American 26

Costa Mesa, California was the epi­center of 1970s boatbuilding. American Mariner Industries is one company, however, better forgotten. It was in business from about 1974 to 1983. Its American 26 was a 25 first. A 1974 brochure says, “This 25-footer so completely justified our judgment as to the efficacy of our unique stabilizer keel and hull . . . that we have moved on to provide the trail-and-sail cruis­ing enthusiast with a choice of two versions-the American 23 and the American 26.” This seems to imply that the same hull mold was used.

American 26

In any case, what is unique about this line of boats is the wide, partly hollow keel that makes a sort of trough in the cabin sole to provide standing headroom. It is not wide, but does run nearly the length of the main cabin. Ballast is 900 pounds of lead laid in the bottom of the keel. Draft is 2′ 4″ for trailerability, but there is no center­board, and due to the keel’s extreme width, you can imagine that wind­ward performance is poor. Unfortunately, we have no owner feedback on this boat to corroborate our assessment.

American 26

The boat sold new in 1974 for $8,995 base. The BUC Research Used Boat Price Guide says today it’s worth about $6,000. Frankly, this design, which severely compromises sailing performance for standing headroom, seems ill-conceived. One can only guess at how many people have cracked their skulls stepping up out of the trough.

Aquarius 23

Coastal Recreation, Inc., also of Costa Mesa, was around from about 1969 to 1983. It acquired the Balboa line of trailer-sailers, and for a time built the LaPaz 25 motorsailer.

The Aquarius 23, and its smaller sistership the Aquarius 21, were de­signed by Peter Barrett, a Webb Institute graduate and national champion in Finns and 4 70s. The Aquarius 23 is not much prettier to look at than the American 26, though it sails surprisingly well. Because highway trailering laws restrict the beam to 8 feet, the Aquarius 23 comes in just under at 7′ 11″ and relies on it for stability. ” Most of the 815 pounds of ballast is in the hull. A large center- board retracts fully into a trunk, which is more or less concealed in the cabin as a foundation for the drop-leaf table. A peculiarity is that persons sit­ting at the table are all on the starboard side, and the forward person is forward of the main bulkhead, essentially in the head, though there is a fore-and­aft bulkhead making the toilet reasonably private (another important issue for trailer­sailers).

Aquarius 23

Like the Paceship PY 23 and many other trailer-sailers, the Aquarius 23 has a pop-top to provide additional headroom. We think this is more sensible than the American’s keel trough, but we do caution that pop tops can leak and aren’t designed for offshore use.

Another unusual feature of the Aquarius is the absence of a backstay and spreaders. To support the mast, the shrouds are led aft, reflecting, we suppose, Barrett’s one-design back­ground. If not suited for wild and woolly sailing conditions, it is at least simple to set up, and that, after all, is the goal of most trailer-sailers.

Friends of ours bought an Aquarius 23 in 1970, and we spent a good deal of time sailing with them, including several overnight crossings of Lake Michigan. The boat handled well, was reasonably quick on a reach, and had more interior room than most 23-footers. Still, we were never enamored of its looks.

Complaints from owners include lost centerboards and rudder repairs (like the Yankee Seahorse, it is an inside, removable type), poor ventilation, poor windward performance when overloaded, tubby appearance, and lack of a mainsheet traveler. Many owners say they bought the boat for its shoal draft and large interior, but that cheap construction caused numerous problems.

The Aquarius 23, in the early 1970s, sold for $6,195; today it sells for about $4,000. Though our memories of sailing this boat are all rosy, we think there are better boats available.

Our preferred solution to the keel/ ballast problem in trailer-sailers is the traditional keel/centerboard as found on the PY 23, Tanzer22 andO’Day23, all of which we recommend. The keel/ centerboard configuration eliminates the trunk in the cabin, places ballast below the hull, and does not concen­trate all of the ballast weight on a pivot pin, as is the case with swing-keel designs.

Specs: Trailer Sailers

We do not care for the American 26’s hollow keel, believing that if you want standing headroom, either go outside or buy a bigger boat. Nor do we care particularly for narrow shoal keels without centerboards, because windward performance suffers, or boards that leave all the ballast in the hull-whether lead, iron or water-as ultimate stability is compromised.

How one solves the choice between interior space and sailing performance is a personal decision. We, too, appreciate spaciousness down below, but at the same time have always chosen boats that looked and sailed decently, willing to give up a few inches of elbow room for a boat we could feel proud of when rowing away in the dinghy.

Price History

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

So the only real complaint against the Aquarius23 is the author is not “enamoured” with it’s “looks”, whatever that means.

I think the Aquarius 23 beats them all for what they were designed for. A family of 5 and thats just what I have. The wide stern and blunt bow make it Large inside and can take a lot of wieght in the tail. I need function, rugged keel for beaching and shallow waters.

I had an Aquarius 21 for thirteen years in San Diego. I sailed it all the time, and made four trips to Catalina Island in it. It had some poor constructions flaws (like particle board coring for the deck), but it was inexpensive, and easily handled by one person. I loved it.

Hi Kevin. I’m looking at a Aquarius 21 project boat. The owner lost the title so I would have to re-title it, but can find a VIN / serial # anywhere. Can you tell me where it might be located?

I have owned and sailed a PY 23 for twenty years, and she has served me well. I have had off and on trouble lowering the centerboard, as it easily sticks in the up position (likely due to growths inside the trunk). It is difficult to gain enough leverage from inside the cabin to force it down. Other than that – the boat has been a trooper.

Have you ever evaluated the Sirius 21/22?

How about a review of the Sirius 21/22 by Vandestad and McGrewer?

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13 Popular Full Keel Sailboats Worth Considering

Full keel sailboats are very stable and durable - they are great for cruising long distances. But there are disadvantages too. Let's look at what models to consider, and why.

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Here are 13 good full keel sailboats that are worth considering:

Nicholson 32

Island packet 380, folkboat 25, cape dory 36, vancouver 32, tradewind 33, endurance 50, westsail 32, hans christian 52.

First of all let's have a look at why you should even be preferring full keel sailboats to a more traditional, widespread classical fin keel design.

Full Keel Advantages

As with everything, there are plenty of pros and cons on each side. Full keels generally provide better handling if the weather gets tricky, they track better, provide more stability downwind, and generally stabilize the boat movements better.

Furthermore, they are way more robust, thus less prone to damage. Running ashore isn't as big of a deal as it is with a fin keel and your rudder and propeller will be more protected with the mass of the keel in front of them.

Full Keel Disadvantages

With more mass and drag comes less speed. Plus the large surface area underwater holding the direction will result in a wider turning radius, which might be annoying in smaller spaces.

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Fin Keel vs Full Keel: Pros and Cons & When to Choose Which

Fin keel advantages.

The largest advantage of fin keels is their speed. They also provide better maneuvering and a better turning radius.

Fin Keel Disadvantages

It is inevitably more prone to damage though, wear and tear will be a way bigger issue than a full keel. They won't have your back when a gust comes since the water-resistance to the side will be smaller.

It seems then that for serious longer passages, liveaboards, and long-term sailing, full keels are better. As long as you don't care for speed as much, but are concerned about the boat having your back, this is the answer. So let's now look at the superstars of the full keel universe.

The very prototype of a long-distance tough cruiser. It has been with us since 1963 and happens to be among the first fiberglass boat models produced on a mass scale. Nicholson 32 went out of production in 1981 and it was a model approved for the 2018 Golden Globe Race, proving that even older Nicholsons are still standing strong due to their toughness and ease of repair.

They were supposedly as durable as if made out of steel. Though I'll leave up to you whether you want to see that as a marketing claim or reality, such a statement can not be made without some base.

Plus the newer models have a lot of interior space, are manageable for solo sailing, and provide a sturdy ride to take one around the world.

The story here is similar to the above Nicholson - meaning that we are looking at one long-lasting high-quality cruiser. Not just because of this specific model's build - Island Packet in general was always known for this. And it is among the very few companies that, in the modern era, keep making full keel boats.

In other words, you don't see many shipyards focusing on full keels these days, so if you want one and you would rather go with a new boat, Island Packet will be one of the stops you will very probably make when doing your research.

If you are looking for reliable cruisers, you will like this one, since cruising is what it was built for, even if it meant sacrificing some performance aspects. It has a wide beam, a lot of interior space, all of the amenities a comfy cruiser should have, such as a big refrigerator with a freezer, as well as a fully equipped kitchen. The long keel here serves as a comfort helper, since, as mentioned before, it adds to the stability and reduces motion.

Not to sound repetitive, but the word 'reliability' has to be mentioned again. It seems that boat builders who choose the full keel design have something in common.

But since this particular boat was born during the Second World War and has been going strong to this very day, what other words to describe it? It has the Nordic blood in its veins since it was thought into existence by the Scandinavian Yacht Racing Union and since it prefers just about everything over comfort.

The boat is very stable, not just because of its full keel, but also because of its insane 55% ballast ratio. For those who haven't come across this before, the ballast ratio is the ratio of the ballast weight relative to the boat weight. So for instance the nearly 9 tonne Bavaria 40 with its almost 3 tonne ballast has a ballast ratio around 30 percent.

Thus you can imagine that a boat that 'wastes' more than half of its weight on ballast is serious about rigidity. These are performance racer numbers. But of course, if you are designing a boat that has to withstand the Scandinavian storms, you don't have a choice than to go overboard with specs. So if this toughness is what you seek, look no further.

...although as far as I know, all Cape Dory boats have full keels, regardless of their length. Their 36-foot model is just their most popular one. Cape Dories are known for their sturdiness, ability to cross the oceans because of their stability, and relative ease of handling.

They were engineered by Carl Alberg, who was inspired by the Scandinavian Folkboat, where reliability is worth more than comfort, or the interior space. This boat rocks a heavy rig for hardcore traveling, but its 1.5-meter draft makes it ideal for coastal cruising as well.

What's quite interesting about this particular model is that during its lifespan it went through very few changes. Boats usually evolve, sailors' feedback is taken into consideration for upgrades, but Cape Dory 36 remained relatively unchanged inside or out. This is a big compliment, since the brand started out in 1963, stopped production in 1991, and sold its blueprints so that they could be built further. Talk about longevity.

Let's progress in technology! Just because a long keel is an old-fashioned or more traditional approach, it doesn't mean it remains monolithic in its ideology. There were innovations in the concept, such as cutaways in the keel, to reduce the biggest drawback of this design, the drag.

So it only makes sense that Vancouver, a company that had distinctiveness and innovation in its mission and vision, would take part in this. Their 32-foot model that begun its lifespan in the early eighties, had a deeply cutaway forefoot, plus a rudder that was wider the deeper it was underwater, meaning its widest point was at its lowest point. This was to increase efficiency, and rudder response.

Technicalities aside, this boat was very well made, no corners cut, no expenses spared. This resulted in quite pricey vessels, out of reach of many, but much time has passed since, so today it can be yours for around 40 000 USD and up. And since the build quality was so high back then, you can still enjoy a proper boat, usually at a higher quality than boats equal its age.

The great thing about Australian sailboat makers is that they design their boats for long passages. How else would they get off of the continent? Freya 39 is a good example of this since it has not only circled the globe many times but also won the Sydney-Hobart Yacht Race three times consecutively. And that's a famously hard race.

The boat is built like a tank, with thicker fiberglass walls than you would find in its rivals. Despite that, its owners claim to have crossed over two hundred miles per day on it, a figure that is well known when it comes to this model. Which sounds plausible with its 7.8 kts of hull speed.

Its construction makes her one stable boat since it has been noted that during races, it was able to carry a spinnaker longer than its competitors, well into the 30 knots of wind speed.

The only drawback here is that if you fancy it, since it is so highly valued, and in demand, it will be tricky to find one to buy. And once you do, prepare to pay around 60 000 - 90 000 USD for it.

This one comes with a story attached to it. Once upon a time, a naval engineer Nick attempted to sail around the world. Halfway through, his boat gave up, which meant a lot of trouble for Nick, but he exited this disaster with a pretty precise idea for what his next project would be. He set on to design a boat that would be so sturdy that his sailing misfortune would never repeat.

Out of this incident paired with a smart brain, Wylo 2 was born. To make sure his design stands, after putting this boat on the water, he proceeded to live on it, while circling the globe a few times.

Others, seeing this success, bought his designs and they became quite widespread. As you might have guessed, this boat has a lot of space for living, for storing equipment and provisions, so it is comfy to live on, not only for your body but because of its sturdiness, for your mind too. These designs have accomplished some astonishing feats in all corners of the world, so if you put your trust in this design, you won't be making a mistake.

If I said this boat is sturdy and ready for just about any destination, I'd really be repeating myself now. So while that's true, let's talk about what's special about Tradewinds 33.

It has a rather small cockpit, so on-deck dinners while watching the sunset with the whole crew might be a bit improvised, but the space saved is used for an impressively spacious interior as well as a nearly flat deck. So moving about is a pleasure.

For liveaboards, this is a good idea, since storage space will be plentiful. Plus it's an elegant looking boat, with a forestaysail as a default setup. So rock on.

Time for a larger boat. So that if you want something that won't lack anything you might wish for, including space, I have something for you too. All Endurances are full keels, so if you fancy a smaller model, there is a way.

Even though it is relatively new, (you will find models from around 1995) it will make you feel like a medieval pirate, with its old-school helm, wooden interior, and a spacious aft cabin that has large windows facing back!

It is a proper bluewater cruiser, built in South Africa based on a famous Peter Ibold's Endurance blueprint. It sleeps a whole family, so if a circumnavigation with a few friends is what you seek, this is one for you.

If you are up for some single-handed sailing, pause here for a bit. Small sailboats are usually nimble, on the top of it, this one is also quite sturdy and stable, as full keels are.

You won't find much space below the deck, so don't expect to have a party of more than around two people, but at least it's a good looking interior, with charming round windows and many of the usual amenities.

They say that Mason sailboats are premium quality for a non-premium price. I wonder whether them being built in Taiwan has something to do with it.

Here is a quote by an owner of a 1986 model that says it all: "I am absolutely captivated by the boat and am not objective at all in my feelings toward her. The general construction is of the highest standard. Like an Irish hunter, she is a workhorse and a lady-maybe not quite as fast around six furlongs as a racehorse, but for the long pull, through timber, brush, and over walls, she is really something."

Now although this owner admits subjectivity, this boat indeed was built with quality in mind. Sturdiness too - not only is its fiberglass hull properly solid, but it also features longitudinal stringers to add further rigidity.

There is a lot of brightwork, which might sound nice at first glance, but since it requires quite a lot of maintenance, some owners even said they could do with less wood if it meant less upkeep.

All in all though, when it comes to getting a lot of boat for not a lot of money, this is it.

Does it make sense to even praise how heavy and sturdy this boat is built? Probably not at this point. Just know it ticks all the boxes. It is made of 12 layered fiberglass for Pete's sake.

The design was based on ideas of the Norwegian engineer Colin Archer, who made his boats such that they could withstand the northern seas. Pair that with the fact that the interior here is surprisingly spacious with 6 ft 2 in of headroom and you've got yourself one comfortable circumnavigator.

The issue stemming from the heavy build and a full keel, which is a slower pace, applies here more than usual though. This boat is absolutely reliable, but don't expect winning speed races.

Sadly, Westsail 32 was in production only for some 9 years. Sales were booming, they made over 800 boats, but bad business practices and cash flow issues resulted in its demise.

Not the author, the boat. If beauty and elegance are what you are after, this one will catch your eye. Just as was the case with Mason, these boats were produced in Taiwan. But since the goal of the engineers was to create the 'ultimate cruising sailboat' and they spared no expense, expect to pay hundreds of thousands of dollars for these boats, even though decades old.

The gorgeous classical design paired with the high build quality makes these exclusive pieces of work, plus quite a modern one since they ceased production in the 90s. So if you don't mind the higher price mark and are looking for something relatively new, that will, thanks to the build quality, last you for many years to come, this might be your choice.

Full keel sailboats are sturdy. Not only is that because of the full keel which itself provides a lot of structural integrity. But also because the choice of putting the full keel in means you are building something that prefers ruggedness and reliability over anything else. So it is logical that the rest of the boat will be built in the same fashion.

So if you don't mind sacrificing the few knots of extra speed, if you don't mind the smaller pool to choose from, if you want a boat that will have your back in pretty much any situation and place you will choose to go to, if you want to sail the Scandinavian design, go for it.

Arthur Rushlow

What a great page. Both my wife and I sailed Faulk Boats out of Canada prior to our moving to Florida. Once we arrived in Florida we had a Soveral 26 built we raced for three years prior to my returning to College and now 5 degrees later I am an Anglican Bishop with no boat.

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Devlin Designing Boat Builders

Lit’l Coot 18 Full Keel

Devlin Boats , Sailboats

full keel sailboat trailer

The Lit’l Coot 18 Full Keel is a is seaworthy and capable motorsailor with enough space on board for the organized sailor and enough potential to keep serious travelers satisfied. She is the sister to the original Lit’l Coot  with the same hull and the same tendency for balanced performance and maximal use of space, but the change to a fixed centerline keel allows her to stand up to weather that the original could not handle. This change also frees up space in the cabin, which makes her more comfortable for longer cruises. Twin rudders surround the outboard motor on the centerline to allow efficient motor cruising on an economical 9.9 hp outboard.

Read Sam’s design notes below for the big picture on the Lit’l Coot Full Keel.

The Lit’l Coot 18 Full Keel is available in study and full construction plans .

Precision cut CNC hull kit available here

full keel sailboat trailer

Length 17 ft. – 10.5 in.
Beam 6 ft. – 11 in.
Draft 2 ft. – 6 in.
Power Outboard 9.9hp
Displacement 2300 lbs.
Ballast 650 lbs.
Sail Area 160 sq. ft.
Height on Trailer 8 ft. – 4 in.

Lit’l Coot Design Notes

Recently I was working on the plans for a small under 20ft. Pocket Sailor design but found during the process I couldn’t help but think about another design, one roughly the same size and in many respects similar in use, but the type I zeroed in on was a small Motorsailor.  This “Litl Coot” design is the result of my musings and dreams.  Now in this case, despite being my own design customer, I still needed to stay focused and set up a list of design parameters that the new design would accommodate.  First of all she needed to be very trailerable with the capability of sitting on a powerboat type trailer low and compact enough to be able to be backed into a garage or storage shed without any special needs.  So right away that got rid of any notion that I would need to design a deep keel for her.  I flirted with the idea of leeboards but quickly realized that a couple of hardwood Bilge Keels,  along with a centerline small shoe keel and aft skeg, would be just the ticket. The bilge keels also had the additional benefit that they would allow her to beach out level and upright if I got caught by a quickly receding tide in some of the shallow and very tidal bays that I was dreaming of using her on.  If you are a fan of classic literature, there is an excellent novel written just before World War One titled “Riddle of the Sands”.  The story is based near the Friesian Islands located off the N.W. shore of Holland and Germany.  These waters are a very tidal area and the descriptions of the main character straying off the dredged and poorly marked channels and getting caught on the sands in his shoal draft boat with all the extra adventures that one would have with that scenario, has always been appealing to me.  Anyway, it’s a great read. As I recollect, this is either one of the first or the very first Mystery Adventure novels written by Erskine Childers and it has had a prominent position in my library for many years.

But back to the “Litl Coot” design – once I had made the decision to give her bilge keels, that meant all her ballast needed to be in the bilge and my plan is to use recycled lead shot (I buy mine from one of the local trap and skeet shooting ranges) which is very nice to work with, all cleaned, in small canvas bags weighing 30 lbs. each and ready to be mixed with epoxy and set into her bilge.  I usually plan on casting about 75-85% of the anticipated ballast (in this case 600 lbs) before launching and then finish off the final ballasting after checking her trim in the water and re-assuring myself that the weight is located where it is most needed to keep her floating level and on her lines.  That reminds me of a story, several years ago my long-term landlord at my main shop (which I have rented for 28 years now) told me one day just after we had launched a new boat, that one of the things that amazed him most of all about my designing and building boats was how accurately I could predict the floating of the boat level and on her lines.  Well that was quite a compliment and I think that if I remember properly that I tried to pass it off as not being that hard to do! Within just a couple of weeks we had occasion to launch another new build (different design, one that we hadn’t built before) and the new vessel floated down on her lines by the stern. We had to add some (actually read quite a lot of) extra chain in her anchor locker to get her settled down on her lines (as designed). I often wondered if my landlord had somehow jinxed me by saying that they all floated on their lines so nicely, and having missed the mark on the very next boat project, the whole experience sobered me considerably.   It should go without saying that on the next design I spent almost twice as much time as I usually did on the weight study trying to not make the same mistake twice.

But back to our musings about the “Litl Coot” – now that we’ve got the keels on her and the ballast settled, it’s time to think about that engine package.  This is a pure 50/50 Motorsailor and on this size boat, I think the little 9.9 horsepower Yamaha 4 cycle engine in hi-thrust configuration is just about ideal.  It’s a great little engine, barely sips fuel, is almost soundless at idle and will work on this design very well.  But here I was confronted with a problem. With many small sailboats, if we make a centerline rudder and hang the outboard on some sort of scissoring bracket to one side of the stern, when sailing on the tack where the outboard is to the lee side, you will find the end of the lower unit of the outboard dragging in the water.  There might be a couple of solutions to this problem, we could move the outboard closer to the centerline, but if we are not really careful then there is a really good chance that sooner or later you will hit the prop with the rudder while doing some short maneuvering in a docking or mooring situation.  If you place the engine further away from the rudder you’ve exaggerated the problem of the drag of the lower unit and prop of the outboard (and I hate dragging something like that when trying to sail).  So my solution for the “Litl Coot” was to place the motor on the centerline of the transom, and by using a long shaft outboard we will be able to keep the lower unit from dragging on the lee side tack (as there is no lee side to a centerline mounted engine) and both the motoring and the sailing will be without compromise.  Now with the engine on the centerline that meant in order to be able to steer her under sail, I needed to find a way to either mount a rudder off the centerline or an even better solution was to use twin rudders that have tillers that tie together into a common link arm. The additional benefit of the twin rudders allowed them to not extend into the water quite as deeply as if I had used just a single rudder and conforms rather nicely with our requirement of being able to sit level and upright in grounding situations without any necessity to lift the rudders up or have some sort of swing blades on them.  Once we joined the two tillers together into a single link arm then my next problem of how to allow an inside steering station to be rigged was easily assisted by having one common link with simple shackles made up to fixed lines (when desiring the inside steering station) and led through turning blocks to a fore and aft pivoting vertical tiller that will be fixed in the pilothouse on the starboard side. If I desire to steer from this inside station, I can sit in a comfortable seat on the starboard side facing forward and steer her by either pushing or pulling on the tiller. There is enough drag in this type of steering system to keep the helm steady for short periods of time if I needed to have her self steering while fixing a spot of tea or perhaps making a snack.

One of the main ideas with this design is that all functions could be done while sailing, or motoring, solo. There is room to take a buddy along but you don’t necessarily have to, in fact there might be a lot of days when just my dog “Bella” might be the perfect crew for an adventure on the “Litl Coot”.  So all the halyards, topping lifts, etc. are lead aft to the sides of the pilothouse. With her little mizzen sail set up and left rigged most of the time either under sail or under power, she will have the wonderful capability to have a balanced helm under different wind and tacking conditions, and the mizzen would help to keep her steady on a mooring, or at anchor when holed up for a rest.

For easy and quick set up when launching from trailer I designed a tabernacle hinged Mainmast setting a rig that I would call a Cat Yawl (although under some definitions this might also be described as a Cat Ketch, the mizzen being stepped ahead of the rudders) configuration.  This style of rig keeps the sail area where it is needed for balance under sail and is a very simple to use, with literally no re-sheeting necessary as one tacks from board to board.  With the process of rigging the Mainmast simply being a matter of rotating up the mast in its tabernacle, set up the forestay on the bail above the Stainless Steel anchor roller up on the bow, and insert a pin into the bottom of the tabernacle and you are ready to launch.  Keeping the mast up in the eyes of the boat also allowed me to have a top hinged window on the front of the pilothouse for sailing or motoring on warm days.  This allows lots of wind in the face but reduces the chance of getting too much sun on my already overly exposed face, if I choose to be inside in the shade of the pilothouse.

So we now have a boat that can sit on a trailer, fit in a normal sized garage for berthage when we aren’t using her, an inside and outside steering arrangement, a couple of berths for doing some simple cruise/camping, and one that will sail or motor at a fairly efficient level whether the wind is blowing or not.  And did I add that she is towable behind most of the small-to-mid sized SUVss or Pickups? She also is a boat that will allow me to explore the really shallow and fringe cruising areas that more conventional sailboats with their deep keels can’t even think about sailing in.  I can sail her either on my own or with crew, but again all systems and setup can be done on my own if that is the way I choose to use her.  In final expression I have found the “Litl Coot” to be absolutely beguiling during her design stages and my armchair cruises have been wonderful, built around her platform.  My best guess is that her real life adventures might be just as good or better, and that adds a lot of spice to my life, just the ticket for a modern, busy world!

Amateur plans are $195 and consist of 16 drawings printed on 24X36 inch paper and a simple building booklet. You can either buy printed sets of plans directly from us or buy a download version and print on your own. We are now producing basic hull kits for her or we could build you the whole boat if you would like, and very soon I look forward to seeing many of these little Cat Yawls on the water. — Sam Devlin

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COMMENTS

  1. 13 Biggest Trailerable Sailboats: Cheap But Good

    The Cape Dory 28 is another fantastic choice for a full-keel, trailerable sailboat. Known for its solid construction, seagoing capabilities, and classic design, it provides a great sailing experience for anyone looking for a larger, more capable boat that can still be towed. ... The Size of Sailboat You Can Trailer. You can trailer sailboats ...

  2. Custom Sailboat Trailers 25ft to 30ft

    custom sailboat trailers 25′ - 30′ ... beneteau first 285. cape dory 25 d. cape dory 27. capri 25. catalina 25 swing keel. catalina 250 wing keel. catalina 25 wing keel. catalina 27. catalina 28 wing keel. cheoy lee. colgate 26. com-pac 27. contessa 26. falmouth cutter. frisco flyer. gary seal. international dragon. irwin 30.

  3. Custom Sail Boat Trailers

    We build custom sailboat trailers. Welcome to Custom Sailboat Trailers (281) 844-4458. Custom Sailboat Trailers ... Rubber bushing under keel board to take the shock off the keel. Painted trailer for Catalina 25. J24 ; Hunter 26 ; Oday24 ; $2300 ; 24 ft frame for 30 ft boat for three axles ; This trailer was made for a 5500 lb boat.

  4. Sailboat

    We combine our modular pods with a keel board and winch stand options on any number of Load Rite or 5 STARR bunk models to conform to many sailboat applications. Each trailer must be specified on an individual basis. To get started, download the attached sailboat trailer specifications document before contacting your local Load Rite dealer.

  5. Sailboat Trailers

    Whether your keel is a swing, bulb, full, fixed, fin, shoal, wing or retractable, your custom sailboat trailer will be designed to effectively support and protect the keel. Also, properly placed screwpads or treated lumber bunks will support your sailboat's hull and bulkheads. This ensures the safe and sturdy transport of your precious rig!

  6. 9 Best Trailerable Sailboats

    And remember, the Hunter 27 is still a trailer sailor. The boat features a shoal draft of under 4-feet and a displacement of less than 8,000 pounds. The Hunter 27 is available used, and this boat is still produced and available brand-new by Marlow-Hunter. ... One of the most legendary small trailerable cruisers is the full-keel Pacific Seacraft ...

  7. 7 Best Trailerable Sailboats for Cruising

    7 Best Trailerable Cruising Sailboats. Catalina 22/25 "Pop-Top". Com-Pac Horizon Cat for Classic Coastal Cruising. Marshall Sanderling — Small, Portable, Classy. West Wight Potter 19 — The Tiny Go-Anywhere Sailboat. Seaward 26RK with Retractable Lead Keel. Corsair F-24 Trimaran - Sporty Sailing.

  8. Watch Hill 15 Full Keel

    Triad Trailers - Watch Hill 15 Full Keel. Contact Us; Find a Trailer; Quote Request; To Place Your Order Call (919) 782 - 6007 or email [email protected]. ©2021 Triad Trailers.(919) 782 - 6007 or email [email protected]. ©2021 Triad Trailers.

  9. Full Keel Sailboat Trailer Boats for sale

    Other misc. gear This is one of the largest trailerable sailboats that can be pulled by a 1/2 ton pickup and probably a full sized SUV. Weight is 4800#, the keel is 1800#, and the trailer is about 900#. Engine and gear is about another 400#. NADA is about $13,375.

  10. Trailerable Sailboats Comparison

    Some trailerable sailboats have semi-displacement keels, especially if they're designed for offshore use. The benefits of a semi-displacement keel over a full keel are negligible on a trailer, as both types have a deep draft and high ride height. 5. Displacement (Full Keel) Displacement keels are traditional and highly seaworthy.

  11. DK1800 Fin Keel Boat Trailer

    The DK1800 Fin Keel Boat Trailer is perfect for fixed or lifting keel sailboats up to 1250kgs, with a chassis setup to suit your boats size and shape. This model is a twin axle, braked trailer. DK1800 Fin Keel Trailer Standard Features: Hot-dip galvanised throughout for added corrosion protection. Torsion beam axles and waterproof bearings ...

  12. Custom Sailboat Trailers & Yacht Trailers

    Contact Us. Find a Trailer. Quote Request. To Place Your Order Call (919) 782 - 6007 or email [email protected]. ©2021 Triad Trailers. For over 35 years, Triad Trailers, has been providing custom sailboat trailers with innovative designs & quality craftmaship for all types of watercrafts.

  13. DK3000 Deep Keel Boat Trailer

    The DK3000 Deep Keel boat trailer is perfect for fixed or lifting keel sailboats up to 2300kgs, with a chassis setup to suit your boats size and shape. This model is a twin axle, ... Call our sales team on 01902 754133 or e-mail: [email protected] for more information on our full range. *Image purely for illustrative purpose. Product may ...

  14. B & G Trailers-#1 for SailBoat, Boat, Motorcycle & Utility Trailers!

    150 to 21,000 lbs. Our sailboat trailers include the following features: Caster Jack - Holds up the bow for hitching. Winch & Winch St and - Pulls the boat out of the water onto the trailer and secures it during traveling. Loading Guides - During recovery, loading guides help identify the left and right sides of the trailer that is ...

  15. Trailer Sailing a 25' Full Keel

    CD25 lists 3' draft, CD25D lists 3.5'.) Most of the trailers for these fixed keep boats have a 25' long tongue extension and an auxiliary "jockey wheel" near the front of the trailer. It's all about getting the boat in deep enough to float off the trailer. Many people who don't have an extending tongue will have a jockey wheel, and will strap ...

  16. Camping on a Keel

    As Catalina's first boat the C22 must have widely surpassed Frank Butler's initial sales expectations, having sold more 15,000 hulls since 1969. The original MkI was launched with a cast-iron swing keel, but all three versions (MkI, MkII & MkIII) could also be had with a fixed fin keel. Obviously trailer sailors will opt for the swing keel.

  17. trailer launching full keel boat?

    It depends on the ramp and the trailer. You need a deep ramp and a trailer that carries the boat low and has a long tongue extension. I had a 24' Morgan with a stub keel that drew 36" on a trailer. Generally, ramps are standardized at 5' deep at the end of the ramp in typical boating-season water levels. Larger lakes (e.g. the Great Lakes) have somewhat deeper public ramps.

  18. 13 Popular Trailerable Sailboats with Lifting Keels

    One of the larger boats on this list, the Seaward 26 RK, is still easy to move over land with a trailered weight under 6,000 pounds. The boat alone displaces 3,800 pounds, with 1,200 lbs. of that in retractable ballast with a bulb on the bottom. The keel lifts with an electric motor and is simple to operate.

  19. 13 Popular Trailerable Sailboats with Lifting Keels

    Hunter 22. This one has to make the list because it is immensely popular. Rightfully so. It is small enough to be transported on a trailer, plus it has a lifting keel that makes the draft only 30 centimeters when up - but over a meter when down, so it still has to say a lot in terms of performance.

  20. Full Keel Lobster and Powerboats

    Our full keel powerboat and lobster boat trailers will provide the perfect amount of support whether your boat is 17 or 50 feet in length, and will protect the hull from damage while the trailer is in use. Full keel boat trailers require special consideration to ensure that they meet your needs perfectly. All of our custom trailers come with a ...

  21. Four Trailer-Sailers And the Keel/Launch Problem

    Draft is 2′ 4″ for trailerability, but there is no center­board, and due to the keel's extreme width, you can imagine that wind­ward performance is poor. Unfortunately, we have no owner feedback on this boat to corroborate our assessment. American 26 Cabin Layout. The boat sold new in 1974 for $8,995 base.

  22. 13 Popular Full Keel Sailboats Worth Considering

    Here are 13 good full keel sailboats that are worth considering: Nicholson 32. Island Packet 380. Folkboat 25. Cape Dory 36. Vancouver 32. Freya 39. Wylo 2. Tradewind 33.

  23. Lit'l Coot 18 Full Keel

    Devlin Boats, Sailboats. The Lit'l Coot 18 Full Keel is a is seaworthy and capable motorsailor with enough space on board for the organized sailor and enough potential to keep serious travelers satisfied. She is the sister to the original Lit'l Coot with the same hull and the same tendency for balanced performance and maximal use of space ...