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Lifeline stanchions
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Decisions, decisions. I have to replace the storm-battered lifeline system on a Nicholson 32. I want to err on the side of strength and safety (assuming I'll always err!). The original stanchions were a conventional 24 inches tall. The Nicholson 32 MKX, being an otherwise fine boat, has a cockpit from which it can be precarious going forward. I'm thinking taller couldn't hurt, but I don't want to go to a lot of expense and trouble to wind up with an aesthetic freak. Does anyone have 30-inch stanchions on a boat this size? Do they work, in every sense? Would 28-inch be a good compromise? Stop worrying and go back with 24? Incidentally, one of the first sailing books I ever read said lifelines are too dangerous--just something to trip over. Gosh, those old cruisers were salty.
I think there are two issues with going taller - aesthetic and engineering. By going taller you do risk its looking "odd" - but one of the knocks on lifelines is that those that don't ruin the look of smaller boats do end up being "trip" lines more than lifelines (or as one friend used to call them "death lines") The other issue is that as you go taller, you will put proportionately higher forces on the bases and mounts in the event they are ever really tested. For the ultimate in safety (but not attractive on a smaller boat, and quite costly) would be solid SS rails all around. We sailed a boat without lifelines for many years - the only time anyone fell off was during a wild broach - and I'm not sure lifelines would have prevented those MOB events in any event.
Just remember that the taller stanchions will have more leverage and torque when someone falls against them than the older, shorter ones did...and should have substantial backing plates, probably larger than what was previously used. Also, don't use vinyl covered cables for the lifelines. Just use plain 1x19 stainless instead. The vinyl covers can help cause and hide corrosion problems. If you're going 30 inches, it might be worth doing three lifelines, rather than just two IMHO. It's a bit pricier, but some think it is worthwhile. CS Johnson makes a lot of different fittings for lifelines. Garhauer Marine has stanchion bases and such.
24 inches 24 inches is a very common height for sailboat stanchions, I doubt you gain anything worth gaining by increasing it, especially as you will live daily with the awkward cosmetics of stanchions/lifelines that don't match your bow and stern rail heights,as it'd cost a small fortune to raise the rails... Check the wish list for something with greater utility to spend this money on...
You know, I read this and I think I might actually disagree with the comments above. I would increase the height if I were re-doing them (well, depending on where they strike you right now). I agree that: 1) It will be costly. (2) It will put more stress on them, just due to the basic physics of leverage. (3) It will not be as nice looking. However, it is safer. Go look at a Pacific Seacraft or a Valiant or other boats that are set up for real offshore work. They have higher lifelines that what most boats have. My problem with my lines is that they strike me right at the knees. Geezz! what a great way to flip over. Raising the lines would help. So what if you bent the thing! If it kept you on the boat, who cares if you had to replace it?? Maybe it just saved your life. The only "counter" I will say to this is that most of the time in seas, you are really hunched over going down the Catwalk anyways... so it is not going to strike you like you were walking down the deck at anchor/docked. Still, every little but helps. Just my thoughts. - CD PS I probably would not do this if it was just a lake boat or very coastal (not to say that you cannot drownd coastal or on a lake). Just, the seas will not be quite the same. If I did much offshore work at all (AT ALL) I would raise them. Also, make sure you are not going to screw up your Jib too much when you tack/Jibe.
sailingfool said: 24 inches is a very common height for sailboat stanchions, I doubt you gain anything worth gaining by increasing it, especially as you will live daily with the awkward cosmetics of stanchions/lifelines that don't match your bow and stern rail heights,as it'd cost a small fortune to raise the rails... Check the wish list for something with greater utility to spend this money on... Click to expand...
wungout said: Just wondering if anyone has 30-inch stanchions on their 32-33 foot boat. Click to expand...
I've always felt a lifeline was there for two reasons: First, to nudge the back of your leg and remind you "Hey dummy, you're about to step off the boat!". Taller or shorter won't affect that gentle reminder, 30" tall might just make it tall enough to tear at belts and pockets. And if you're loading or unloading the boat, the damned things just get in the way, taller gets in the way more. Second, so you've got something to grab while you are about to ROLL off the deck, or lying on the deck, or seated on the deck. In which case 24" is still plenty tall enough to do the job. Any way you could just install something else--inboard--to grab or assist in the lunge in/out of the cockpit? If you want a cheap trial of taller stanchions, stop at the hardware store, get some 1/2" PVC pipe, cut it up into 30" lengths, and tie them to the stanchions on one side of the boat. See how you like that, before you invest in stainless. Shouldn't cost you more than $5-6 for six pieces that way.
Although a different scenario than wungout's, I have considered raising the railing at the aft helm deck on my boat, for several reasons. Currently the solid teak cap over SS stanchions, completely lining my boat's perimeter, is 24" from deck. This normally provides adequate safety when offshore, but this comfort level begins to diminish when on the low side while heeled over. I think it's at the correct height, aesthetically and functionally, but my wife wishes it was a few inches higher. Her greatest concern is the rigidity of the railing. last year, she received a nasty hematoma after slamming her back against the teak rail, after being subjected to a huge ferry wake. A lifeline would have been more resilient. The consideration shortly after this incident, was to extend 8"-12" SS stanchions above the teak cap, threaded with a tensioned SS lifeline. Thankfully, this silly idea has not been brought up again since.
Stainless all the around (top rail only of course) I agree with Faster's comments, stainless top rail all the way around. Not only would it increase the possibilitiy of grabbing ahold of it, but since all the stanchions are now connected the over all system strength would improve greatly. I will be modifying my Stella as such, but then again with a 58ft LOD I guess she need something like this. Gil
What I see as a concern regarding the stanchions is the ones in my 30' call are mounted on the deck inboard of the toe trim. That reduces my walking area by 5" don't appear much, but in a dry run it makes a difference when freed up. I am considering buying or having build through the hull side monting stanchions that would bolt 2" below the rub rails. They would be 3" wide by 5" long 1/4" plate with 1" tube soket wellded along the center of the 5" lenght of the plate. It would have four through bolted mounting bolts with a 1/8" backing plate. All bolts will have appropriate size washer on the inside. the stanchions will be 36" long by 31/32" held in place with through bolt and lock nut. The stachions will have two safet SS wire. After installation the Stanchions should be 25" above the deck. Please comment on my idea as I am seriously interested in increasing the walk area from cockpit to bow on my boat. It allows me to have greater balance. Thank you
Builditjose said: What I see as a concern regarding the stanchions is the ones in my 30' call are mounted on the deck inboard of the toe trim. That reduces my walking area by 5" don't appear much, but in a dry run it makes a difference when freed up. I am considering buying or having build through the hull side monting stanchions ..... Click to expand...
Standard 24" for me. While I agree with much of what saildog writes in this case I would go with the coated lifelines and just replace them every 6=8 years or so. I have seen a small burr on an uncoated lifeline put a few huge tears in a 3-4 thousand dollar jib. CS Johnson is where i buy mine. In addition the stantions can be place on in two manners if you have an anodized toe rail like our C&C does. Original equipment on C&C was a stantion which was intergrated and attached to the toe rails thus providing greater support than the standard backing plate most stations are installed with. Another advantage to this set up is it gives maximum width to the gunwale. www. niagara.com South Shore Yachts sells these. Dave
I replaced the stanchions on a 30' boat with 28" including the bow and stern rail. I think it looked fine and worked well. The boat had a fairly deep cockpit and the extra height of the stern rail made is seem very protected as well. Lifelines should be bare wire as you never know what's happening under that plastic covering. If they get a meathook or burr, they are in need of replacement. Current offshore racing regulations call for bare wire, not covered. Brian
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- Safety & Seamanship
Raising the Bar on Lifelines
A simple, old-school method for keeping crew safe onboard..
Lifelines are often disparaged as nothing more than tripping hazards, mounted so far below our center of gravity that they are more likely to launch a sailor over the side than to save him. While larger boats occasionally fit taller stanchions and solid-tube railings, the vast majority follow the International Sailing Federations (ISAF) offshore regulations, which require lifelines to be no less than 24 inches high on boats 28 feet or longer. This is effectively the bare minimum developed for racing on fully crewed boats where higher lines interfere with deck-sweeping genoas, and crew lost overboard has a reasonable hope for recovery. Cruisers have different priorities.
Photos by Drew Frye
When boats were made of wood and men of iron, it was common practice to rig safety lines at chest height during storms. Shrouds for multiple masts were mounted outboard, like a row of tall stanchions reaching to the sky, providing handy attachment points the length of the ship, with vertical runners attached as needed to limit the gaps. Many long-distance cruisers do the same on passage, gaining much needed security during one-man watches.
For chest-high lifelines, polyester double braid is typically the line of choice, offering both good hand and low stretch. The ends are secured to strong points, fore and aft, either at the pulpit or deck, shrouds and arches, and other high points. Yawls and ketches make rigging a high lifeline easier as the second pair of shrouds provides additional rigging points.
Chest-high lifelines would seem to be overkill for the average coastal sailor. After all, there are jacklines for offshore work, and overnight passages are few. But jacklines have their limitations. They are cumbersome, and in calm weather, one is easily tempted to forego clipping-in. Lets not forget that many man-overboard fatalities occur in relatively benign conditions.
Looking at todays cruising boat designs, it is easy to see how the typical 24-inch-high lifeline offers little security. The cabintop height on a contemporary deck-saloon cruiser or catamaran is often greater than 24 inches above the sidedeck. One sweep of the boom or a lurch in a cross-sea, and a person standing on the cabintop could be easily launched right over the lifeline. This mid-ship area between the cockpit and foredeck is a logical place for a chest-high lifeline. Fortunately, on many boats. it is also an easy place to rig such a lifeline.
Rigging a High Lifeline
For our chest-high lifeline, we chose a retired genoa sheet made of Kevlar. Kevlar, because it has almost no stretch and is relatively soft, seemed like a logical choice. We anchored the forward end to the aft end of a bow gate (there is an eye in the lifeline). The center of the line was tied to the shroud with a clove hitch; the aft end was secured to a gate eye at the stern with a lashing. Keep in mind that all lifeline gates need to be closed in order for the lifeline to retain full strength.
We had considered seizing the line to the shroud with some whipping twine, but the clove hitch turned out to be sufficient. We secured it with a bit of tape wrapped around the shroud, just below the hitch. Weve been using it like this for over a year and have not yet had any problems with it sliding. Dont try this with Amsteel or other Dyneema lines. Although these are popular materials for lifelines, they are slippery and will likely slide down the shroud under load when rigged high.
An alternative is to use a jackline fairlead. C.S. Johnson makes one that is described below. You can also seize a grommet or D-ring to the stanchion. Obviously, this arrangement is best suited for boats with outboard shrouds.
Sizing and Engineering
ISAF rules governing lifelines sizing vary with boat size, requiring 3/16-inch, stainless-steel cable with a tensile strength of about 3,700 pounds for a 43-foot boat. End points must be anchored to either a reinforced pulpit or deck anchors. Does this extra line add any new stresses to already weak stanchions? We don’t think so.
If an impact is near the shroud, it is no different than grabbing or shouldering the shroud. If an impact is very near the stanchion, it is no different than leaning on the lifelines. If an impact is between the shroud and either end anchor, because the shrouds lean inboard, the deflected line is still parallel to the lifeline and contributes only fore/aft tension. Leaning on it applies no bending force to the stanchions.
ISAF rules require lifelines to be supported every 84 inches. While this is not practical, we did loosely lash the new chest-high lifeline to the top lifeline where it passed close; the longest unsupported section is only 105 inches, which complies with the spirit of the rule. ISAF rules also require that no lifeline be attached to a stanchion. This is so that tension loads are transmitted to strong points at the pulpit and stern rail. We did this by terminating the high lifeline at existing lifeline eyes, not wanting to block the gates; the line could as easily be run to the ends or brought down to a stanchion base or other deck strong point.
What about attachment to shrouds? Because of the tightrope effect, a good strong pull in the center may create tension forces up to 1,000 pounds; on shrouds greater than a quarter-inch in diameter, this is insignificant and can be ignored.
On smaller boats, however, there will be considerable deflection, but not enough for rare occurrences to be any greater concern than falling against a shroud. We like that the clove hitch is easy on the wire, contributing to neither point-loading, fatigue, or corrosion. It is important to make sure that your shrouds have toggles that allow for this kind of flex.
Related Products
If a clove hitch or seizing does not suit your tastes for securing a high lifeline, there are a few bolt-on products available.
Stainless Jackline Fairlead
The C.S. Johnson stainless jackline fairlead is designed for jacklines and is suitable for clamping to wire, rod, or Dynaform shrouds from 5/6- to half-inch. The price isn’t cheap: $135 each. A high lifeline threaded through such a fitting would comply with the ISAF requirement that the line not be fixed at any intermediate point. Though we did not test the fairlead, Johnson said it is designed so that it will not chafe the wires. Each fairlead cleat comes with the required shims. As for its intended purpose-jacklines-we prefer jacklines that are centered further inboard to keep a person from going overboard.
Bottom line: This solution looks slick, but there are less expensive alternatives.
Moonlight Aladdin Cleat
Moonlight Marines Aladdin Cleats are named for their resemblance to the mythical lamp. Although they are recommended for securing sail and flag halyards, weve seen them used to secure high lifelines. The price is right-$22-but in our view, they arent a good idea to use on shrouds. They can catch sheets, and they appear lightly built for this application.
Bottom line: Wed rather use a clove hitch.
Chest-high lifelines don’t get in the way of any running rigging, and they actually ease tacking, lifting the lazy sheet at a better angle. And when we do go forward without clipping or reach to leeward for a sail clew, we feel a lot less naked. If you rig your own setup, be sure to test it gently at first, slowly increasing your weight on it. The line is only as secure as the connections.
A chest-high lifeline project is as simple as they come. Measure for length; eye-splice or knot a bight in the ends; hitch or lash the line to your shrouds at the desired height; lash the ends to your existing lifelines or corner stanchion; and tension.
1.A wrap of tape around the lifeline prevents the hitch from sliding. 2. Dacron lashing (with chafe gear) can be tensioned. 3. The orange line is the new, high lifeline on our test cat.
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Could the chest high lifeline you describe be a substitute for lifelines on a sailboat that has no existing stanchions or lifelines?
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Stanchion Height Rule Change - Important Information
At the 2013 IMCA World Council AGM the rule change proposal to reduce the height of the stanchions (already approved in outline at the 2012 AGM) was ratified. Subject to approval by ISAF this rule change will be introduced on 1 January 2014.
NEW RULE H.2.
| Two Factory supplied stanchions either side with hiking line | Minimum 350mm | Maximum 360mm | Underside of hole in stanchion above deck |
REASON: Various proposals had been submitted to the meeting on this subject. Peter Goekel reported back on the Technical Committees findings on this subject and there was discussion around the table on the correct wording for the rule and the need to protect the one design of the boat (ie that allowing two different heights of stanchion or a variety of heights would not be appropriate). Federico Michetti drew the meetings attention to the detail in the Builder's Report highlighting that a low cost retrofit kit is available for those who do not wish to purchase a new set of stanchions.
Sailors are reminded that there are three possible options when reducing the height of their stanchions to meet the new rule:
1) by purchasing new stanchions, to be ordered from Melges Performance Sailboats 2) by adapting existing stanchions using the official retrofit kit, to be ordered from Melges Performance Sailboats 3) Reducing the old stanchions to the new height by cutting the tube and welding the original head back onto the tube at the new height = Please note that it cutting the existing stanchions and welding on new (non original) heads or other materials is NOT allowed.
Below please see a useful video produced by Technical Committee Member Jan Schmidt which demonstrates the correct technique for cutting and welding existing stanchions.
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A Strong Stanchion to Save Your Life
- By John Vigor
- Updated: August 7, 2002
Lifeline stanchions take a terrible beating. Theyre long, thin and almost impossible to install with any pretense of engineering integrity. They might have been designed as levers to pry open a deck. In fact, whenever someone shoves a boat off a dock with a hearty thrust to a stanchion, thats exactly what can happen. In a fiberglass deck, stanchion movement can cause crazing and cracking in the gel coat. In a wood deck, movement will strain the fasteners and loosen the base, disturbing the bedding compound that forms a vital waterproof seal.
In each case, saltwater and rainwater leaks result. Telltale brown stains then will appear inside lockers, above the pilot berth, or on the cabin liner, usually (but not necessarily) directly beneath a stanchion. Leaks can run along stringers and liners, emerging some distance from the source. But leak damage isnt just cosmetic. It can rot interior woodwork or saturate a deck core, leading to delamination, structural degradation and costly repairs.
A leak signals that you need to rebed your stanchion bases. If they were properly fitted in the first place, this is not a big job. You can do one at a time, but its wiser to rebed them all at once. When one springs a leak, chances are the others wont be far behind.
Some stanchions are two-piece affairs with separate bases and upright posts. Some are bolted through the base plate only and others are reinforced with attachments to a bulwark or high toe rail (which makes them substantially stronger). Whatever the make-up, these are the key elements of good stanchion installation:
- Backing pads spread stress loads.
- Flexible bedding compound seals joints against leaks and, in a cored deck, sealed bolt holes keep the core dry.
- Stainless steel bolts/nuts/washers give strength and security.
Keeping these basics in mind, heres a step-by-step guide to rebedding a stanchion base:
Step 1 Remove the wire lifelines. Remove the stanchion from its base (if the two are not integral) by unscrewing the retaining nuts or removing the cotter pins. Lay it aside. Place masking tape flush alongside the edges of the base and tamp down firmly.
Step 2 Remove interior trim or headliner to expose the nuts holding the stanchion base in place. Remove the nuts with a wrench. You may need a helper on deck with a large screwdriver to stop the bolt from turning. Withdraw the bolts and inspect for pitting or crevice corrosion. If need be, replace with new stainless steel bolts of the same size (but at least 1/4-inch in diameter).
Step 3 Lift the stanchion base from the deck, prying gently with a wide screwdriver if necessary. Gently scrape bedding compound off deck and bottom of base. Wash away remaining bedding compound with solvent (paint thinner or mineral spirits if it was an older, linseed oil-based marine putty such as Dolfinite bedding compound; or acetone if it was polysulfide or silicone).
Step 4 Thoroughly sand the deck inside the masking tape with 120-grit paper, taking care not to sand the tape itself, protecting it if necessary with a piece of Formica or similar held in place. Sand the bottom of the base, too.
Step 5 If necessary, prepare a new backing plate. For materials, use at least 3/32-inch-thick stainless steel, 1/8-inch aluminum or 3/16-inch marine plywood. It should be 50 percent longer and wider than the stanchion base, if possible. Place the base on top of the backing plate and mark for holes. Drill holes in the backing plate 1/16-inch larger than the bolt diameter, to allow for bolt drift.
Step 6 For decks cored with balsa or foam, and if the edges of the bolt holes have not been sealed with epoxy to prevent water ingress, there is an additional step to insert here. With a drill, ream out the existing bolt holes through the deck about 3/32-inch larger than the bolt diameter. Tape the bottom of the holes, but prick a small hole through the middle of the tape with dividers or a large needle. Mix a small quantity of epoxy resin with a bonding powder to the consistency of peanut butter and fill the bolt holes, forcing the resin down from the deck until a tiny worm of putty squeezes through the air holes in the tape. Allow the epoxy to cure. Then, using the base plate as a template, carefully re-drill the original-size holes through the middle of the epoxy.
Step 7 Cover the deck area outlined by masking tape with a generous layer of polysulfide sealant such as Boatlife’s Life Calk or 3M 101 marine sealant. Silicone may also be used to bed the base, but polysulfide is the preferred sealant. Polyurethane bedding compound should not be used because it is a powerful adhesive that makes subsequent removal of the base difficult, and will likely cause structural damage to the deck. (Note: Sikaflex claims this effect won’t occur with its less adhesive 231 polyurethane formula and says it’s suitable for bedding deck fittings.)
Step 8 Smear the bottom of the base with a layer of polysulfide sealant. Also smear sealant under the heads of the bolts. Place the base in position and drop the bolts through. Line up the slots in the bolt heads as required, but don’t turn the bolts again or you’ll destroy their waterproof seal. All tightening will be done from inside.
Step 9 Down below, fit the base plate and the washers, and screw on the nuts while a helper holds the bolts in place on deck. Tighten the nuts only until a fat bead of compound oozes out all around the edges of the base. Remove the excess compound with a putty knife or scraper and a rag soaked in mineral spirits, then smooth the sealant against the edges of the base with a finger or a plastic spoon.
Step 10 Allow the sealant to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This could take anywhere from 48 hours to a week. With a helper again on deck to prevent the bolts from turning, tighten the nuts home one by one. Replace the stanchion post in its base and rerig and tension the lifelines.
Stanchions rebedded in this manner will provide many years of good service and add substantially to the security of the deck lifeline system.
Safety-At-Sea Note: The American Boat and Yacht Council suggests that the entire lifeline installation be capable of withstanding a ÒstaticÓ force of about 600 lbs.
In his book Surveying Small Craft, British author Ian Nicolson warns owners to watch out for stanchions secured with screws. All deck fittings should be thru-bolted, he says.
Furthermore, as far as stanchions are concerned, surveyors agree “that there should be underdeck pads to take the nuts and washers, almost regardless of what construction material is used. Mass-produced boats need adequate checking, because there is a tendency to omit these pads or locate them carelessly so that the bolts do not pass through the pads.”
Nicolson advocates using backing pads on top of the deck, between deck and stanchion base, and below the deck.
Dan Spurr, author of Upgrading The Cruising Sailboat, warns that stanchions should be made of stainless steel pipe, not tubing, and should have lock nuts under the deck. “Stanchions should be welded or thru-bolted to their bases, because Allen set screws only dimple the metal, at best, and are not very secure,” he writes.
To keep the exterior of the stanchion base smooth or to prevent damage to a chromed base, you may want to drill only the stanchion. Mark the position of the set screw with the stanchion in place. Remove the stanchion and center punch the spot, then drill and tap it to receive a machine screw. To use the Allen set screw, drill partially through the stanchion to provide a recess into which the set screw can securely sit. Always use LokTite or a similar product on the threads of the bolts, machine screws or set screws to keep them from working loose.
If there are only three holes in a round stanchion base, locate two holes inboard, Spurr advises. The stanchion will better be able to withstand a sudden outward thrust.
———————————————————————— John Vigor is a regular contributor to Cruising World
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Stanchion Work
- Thread starter MKirk51
- Start date Dec 22, 2008
- Forums for All Owners
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I'm looking for opinions, experiences, tall tales, whatever you're kind enough to provide, about some stanchion work. My main haulout project for this year is rebedding, so I removed all the stanchions and pulpits this past fall, and will reinstall this spring. As you can see in a photo from a couple years ago, there are lots of openings in the cover for them, and they always seem to allow snow and water to get in. After sealing all those openings in the cover before installing it this year, I realized how great it would be if I could remove the stanchions and pulpits EVERY year, and eliminate those openings. As you can see in the other photo, the bases are all welded on. I'm thinking I can cut the existing bases off and replace them with the separate bases that use either set screws or a bolt and nut to hold the stanchion on. That way I can remove the stanchions, pad the bases somehow and let the cover go right over the top of them. No leaky openings. Whaddya think? Am I gonna lose a lot of strength by going this route? Also, I see the bases go for anywhere from about $20 (ebay) to $50 or more. I'm fresh water so I'm thinking the cheaper versions would be OK as long as they have the reinforcement rod on them. Any comments on going with the cheaper version? I've heard bad things about the metallurgy coming out of China. Thanks for any and all comments and advice, and I hope you all enjoy the holidays and have lots of boat goodies coming your way.
Attachments
If you can find some tubing with an inside diameter that will allow you to slide it over the existing tubes then all you will need is to cut the pieces to length, drill and tap four holes in each and cut your stanchions at a convenient height and telescope the pieces together. Crutch tips will serve as padding.
Rich (P303)
Take a look at Mainesails "how too"... re-bed hardware before you do ANYTHING. Basically... he enlarges the hole... takes out some core material between the glass... countersinks top surface... epoxies hole and re-drills... using butyl tape (I think) as a gasket. I have a 1984 Pearson and I have a 2 piece set-up... the stanchion base... and the upright. Upright fits into base. I can take uprights off If need be. I have a little wobble. As long as it is attached thru... no need to worry. I would not want a captive screw that threads thru the base and bites on the upright... rather threads into the upright with just a hole in the base. Ross's idea seems like a plan... you will have "beefy" stanchions, My set-up seems feasible...however I haven't fallen over the side on a tether either.
Re: Ross' idea Uh, don't do that. A tube slipped over another like that may not be as strong as a continuous tube of the same diameter. After the first load, like the helpful people on the dock who always try to stop your boat with the tops of the stanchions, you'll probably find that you can't get the stanchions off again either. Stanchions are pretty important and you've got nice solid ones. I wouldn't mess just to cover the boat more convieniently in the winter.
As someone said look at Mainesail's web site on this and as a 32 ODay owner who has done this project I can say for one thing I'm pretty sure the stanchion's are unique to ODay's because of the angle so replacing with a different base might create problems and getting to the nuts can be a challenge if your headliner is fiberglass like mine and what I did was take a hole saw and find the exact location of the stanchion nuts and thats where I made a 2" hole and with a flex box wrench I was able to get the nuts, also ODay used small washers above the nuts and no backing plates so I made backing plates that slipped into the 2" openings. Another trick I did when putting the nuts back on was to use standard nuts first cause I could use my finger to spin them on then tighten with the wrench followed by an aircraft locking type nut.
Roger Long said: Uh, don't do that. A tube slipped over another like that may not be as strong as a continuous tube of the same diameter. After the first load, like the helpful people on the dock who always try to stop your boat with the tops of the stanchions, you'll probably find that you can't get the stanchions off again either. Stanchions are pretty important and you've got nice solid ones. I wouldn't mess just to cover the boat more convieniently in the winter. Click to expand
OK, I am completely unfamiliar with covering a boat, but it seems that it would be much easier to raise the mast mount of the tarp higher and have a skirt sewn that would cover the stanchions? Not trying to be a schmart ash but that seems like a LOT less work.. ??
Roger Long said: After the first load, like the helpful people on the dock who always try to stop your boat with the tops of the stanchions, Click to expand
If you want to have removable stanchions you may want to contact Garhauer Marine. They make semi custom part all the time. I am sure that they will custom drill the bases to match your pattern. http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=54 Call them and see what they can do for you. New stanchion & bases would be under $60 each. If you catch them at a boat show, the prices are even less.
My stanchion bases are short sockets ( two diameters deep) into which one inch tubing is inserted to creat a stanchion. Someone needs to explain to me how this is substantially different from applying an external sleeve to an existing one piece stanchion that has been cut 3 inches above the base and a six inch external sleeve installed. I have been messing about machinery all of my life and I can't for the life of me see how this ; A . is weaker . or B. Creats a stress riser.
Maine Sail, one of my pet peeves is; people who pull on the life lines. I explain to people that they are very strong, well maintained, clean, and convenient. Then I try to explain, that the reason they are like that is, because they are there to save their lives (and no other purpose). I can't even imagine what I would do if someone pulled or pushed on one of my stanchions. (Drinking beer and wrapping presents, Merry Holidays! Thanx for your Presence on this site.)
Merry Prankster said: Maine Sail, one of my pet peeves is; people who pull on the life lines. I explain to people that they are very strong, well maintained, clean, and convenient. Then I try to explain, that the reason they are like that is, because they are there to save their lives (and no other purpose). I can't even imagine what I would do if someone pulled or pushed on one of my stanchions. (Drinking beer and wrapping presents, Merry Holidays! Thanx for your Presence on this site.) Click to expand
higgs said: Maybe I am misunderstanding this post, but if life lines and stanchions cannot survive being pulled on while one is going forward, what good will they be when a real test comes along? Click to expand
I think it makes no difference Ross... I have the same set-up. MKirk probably has 1'" tubing... so if he leaves a 2" tall stub... his stanchions will have to be thicker to slide over the existing... and maybe stronger? He might want to rethink the backing plate too while its all apart. Getting the caps and middle hardware for the life lines could be interesting.
Rich (P303) said: I think it makes no difference Ross... Click to expand
Ross said: Someone needs to explain to me how this is substantially different from applying an external sleeve to an existing one piece stanchion that has been cut 3 inches above the base and a six inch external sleeve installed. Click to expand
What about just sistering the tubing to the stanchions so that the stress is more at the base? You could even use slightly angled fittings at the top of the stanchions. By the way, a really cheap source of a lot of tubing is to contact your local well service company. They pulled 200 feet of 1" pvc out of my well that had been installed in 20 or so foot sections and replaced it with a single length. They said they do it all the time and now leave it with the well's owner to discard. I gave it to a friend who has greenhouses.
Roger, I am going to print this thread and frame it on my boat. For years I have been exposed to ridicule by my crew when I attempt to explain the principles of leverage and the forces acting on the stanchion bases. I've tried to explain that every time a lifeline is used for something other than saving their life it takes some of the strength out of the system. I try to explain that the lifeline/stanchion system is like a team, each member needs to contribute to achieve the goal and the weakest member can bring the whole group to its level. I tell them that if, in an emergency, they were stopping a fall overboard, they could very well rip several stanchions off the deck and that the destruction will be absorbing their energy (energy moving in the wrong direction), slowing and then stopping them. I explain that the stronger each component is, the more energy it will absorb. By now, they are all laughing hysterically. In the future, I'll be able to smack them with this thread in a frame.
Beneteau uses a deck mount that has a 2 or 3-inch stub sticking up with a one-inch stanchion that slips over it. A hole in the stanchion allows a bolt to be threaded into that stub. Not the best arrangement, but I figure, hey, if they built it that way... Like the storm that passed over Cuba and did 50 million dollars of improvements, somehow a beam stanchion got bent outwards- maybe at the dock. The stanchions are perpendicular to the angled deck, which means the stanchion top is outboard of the toe rail and bangs the pilings and other boats in a raftup. Not good. On a whim, I moved the outward-bent starboard stanchion over to the port side where it now bends inward, inside of the toe rail. So, I now have a new stanchion in hand and will take all four to the shop and have them bent half as far (one inch) as the damaged one. With this move, the lifeline will run inboard of the shroud which should provide some extra support if the lifeline goes outward when someone is on it. Yes, it's nice to be able to easily remove the stanchions for my cover, but, Matt, that's alot of work for you.
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Yachting Monthly
- Digital edition
How safe are your guardrails?
- Stef Bottinelli
- March 3, 2016
Check them with these handy tips from the UK’s leading yacht refit experts
Imagine a pitching foredeck at night with nothing to prevent you sliding off the deck. Guardrails and stanchions can save your life, so it’s essential to make sure they are in good condition.
Ian Nicholson’s industry reference, The Boat Data Book , gives good advice: for a yacht up to 12m LOA, use wires of at least 4mm diameter in 316 grade stainless steel, 1×19 construction and a maximum stanchion spacing of 2.2m. Industry standard stanchion height (for boats up to 15m LOA) is 610mm, but some serious cruisers have stanchions of 800 to 900 mm. In addition:
Guardwires should not be PVC-coated. The wires should be visible and need end fittings and tensioning methods at least as strong as the breaking load of the wire. Adjustment arrangements can include simple lashings, turnbuckles or integrated, adjustable forks.
Lashings must be replaced regularly . UV degradation weakens them over time. Turnbuckles and other adjusters should be regularly checked. Guardwires should be tight enough so they do not sag between stanchions, but not so tight to cause wear spots as they pass through the stanchions.
Terminals should be secured fore and aft with clevis pins and split pins , which should be fully opened and either taped over or covered with a bead of silicone sealant to prevent them catching on sheets and sails. Split rings should not be used as they open too easily.
Wires should be regularly checked. If damaged, they must be replaced. Stanchions should be securely fastened to the deck and if bent or damaged, they should be repaired or replaced.
Berthon are safety experts. For more on this important aspect, go to: www.Berthon.co.uk/safety
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COMMENTS
Stanchion Height. I'm in the position of having to replace the stanchions on my boat (an S&S 34). The existing setup uses 24 inch high stanchions, which I believe is pretty standard. I'm considering going to 30 inch stanchions. Curious if anyone has a view as to the utility (or non-utility) of taller stanchions. Thanks in advance.
CharlieJ. For real safety a stanchion should be around 30 inches tall, with double life lines. Practically speaking you aren't gonna find a small sailboat with them that tall- they "look funny". Ours on Tehani are taller than most, but still really too low. MOST on small sailboats are really "trip wires" and many boats would really be safer ...
I replaced the stanchions on a 30' boat with 28" including the bow and stern rail. I think it looked fine and worked well. The boat had a fairly deep cockpit and the extra height of the stern rail made is seem very protected as well. Lifelines should be bare wire as you never know what's happening under that plastic covering.
A review of various stanchions and bases for sailboats, with emphasis on strength, design and quality. Learn about the advantages and disadvantages of cast, welded and stainless steel stanchions, and how to choose the best ones for your boat.
3,548. Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD. Nov 21, 2014. #7. Remember that the leverage depends on the ratio of stanchion height the width. Perhaps it is about 5:1. The greatest load, assuming it is not open during vigorous sailing, is someone placing about 150% of their weight on the cable, as though they fell.
In the early 90s, he left a newspaper job to sail an old gaff-rigged ketch across the Pacific and has been writing about boats and the sea ever since. His weekly blog Inside Practical Sailor offers an inside look at current research and gear tests at Practical Sailor, while his award-winning column, "Rhumb Lines," tracks boating trends and ...
Measure for length; eye-splice or knot a bight in the ends; hitch or lash the line to your shrouds at the desired height; lash the ends to your existing lifelines or corner stanchion; and tension. 1.A wrap of tape around the lifeline prevents the hitch from sliding. 2. Dacron lashing (with chafe gear) can be tensioned.
Sailboat stanchions are vertical poles positioned around the perimeter of a sailboat deck.
At the 2013 IMCA World Council AGM the rule change proposal to reduce the height of the stanchions (already approved in outline at the 2012 AGM) was ratified. ... there was discussion around the table on the correct wording for the rule and the need to protect the one design of the boat (ie that allowing two different heights of stanchion or a ...
Learn how to rebed stanchion bases to prevent leaks, rot and delamination in your boat's deck. Follow the step-by-step guide with tips on materials, sealants and bolts for a strong and secure stanchion system.
When you try stopping a 12,000 lb boat by grabbing a 1" diameter stainless steel stanchion that is 24" high and has a base of about 2-3" wide... you're putting a lot of torque on the base, and the chances of ripping the base out or weakening it very badly is pretty high. They're not designed for it, nor can most handle it.
Learn how to check and maintain your guardrails and stanchions, which can prevent you from falling off the deck. Get advice from Berthon, the UK's leading yacht refit experts, on wire diameter, spacing, tension, terminals and more.
Re: Mounting Stanchions. Make some pads about 1/2" high. G10, fiberglass, whatever. Bevel the edges for your feet. Epoxy them to the deck. Drill, clean, scuff up the bottom of the stainless with 36 on a mini grinder, acetone, stick on with 5200 not hard then retighted in a few days. Never liked tape.
A stanchion is a vertical post or bar that supports the mast, lifelines, railings and other equipment on boats. Learn about the different styles and materials of stanchions and how to install them properly.
A stanchion is a sturdy upright fixture that provides support for some other object. Learn about different types of stanchions in architecture, lighting, event management, sports, and more.
Find over 60 types of stanchions (or staunchions) for your boat, including custom made and special orders. Learn the difference between 1" and 25mm OD stanchions, and how to choose the right stanchion bases and accessories.
Stainless Steel Stanchions. Model # P014046072. $114.99 - $133.99. Select a Product. -. +. Add to Cart. Buy in monthly payments with Affirm on orders over $50. Learn more.
This stanchion was removed off a 1969 Seadog 30. It is 27 1/2" in height. It is a double lifeline. The lifeline holes are 11" apart. This stanchion is 1" tubing. This stanchion DOES NOT have a base.
Mast Height from DWL: 49.58 ft / 15.11 m: Sailboat Links. Designers: Stan Huntingford: Builders: ... 1997), states that a boat with a BN of less than 1.3 will be slow in light winds. A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising. Derek Harvey, "Multihulls for Cruising and Racing", International ...
FAIRLEAD DOUBLE, STANCHION ø25/30 Weight: 169.00 g Width: 58 mm Height: 72 mm. Compare this product Remove from comparison tool. boat grab rail 2054-5. Contact. boat grab rail. ... boat stanchion socket. 15.480.26. This rod makes it possible to have a shower head on the stern gangplank. Made of black anodized aluminium + stainless steel parts.
Description. Schaefer's stanchion system offers models for single or double lifelines, with a choice of 24" or 26" height. Heavy-duty 1'' diameter, 1/16" thick stainless stanchion tubes have integral top caps and accept coated lifeline wire up to 5/16'' (8mm) diameter. Other Components. Works with rugged 36-01 stainless base (sold separately ...
Used Sailboat Stainless Stanchion 18-1/2″. $ 25.00. Used Sailboat Stainless Stanchion. This is a Used Stanchion with a height of 18-1/2″. Stainless Steel construction. The base plate measures approximately 4″ x 3″ with a 4- hole mounting pattern. 1 in stock.
This stanchion gate was removed off of a 1969 Seadog 30'. It is 27 1/2" total height. It is double lifeline, the lifeline helps are 11" apart. This gate is an adjustable hinge for the support so it could be different angles. There is NO BASE for this stanchion gate.