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Hands-On The Rolex Yachtmaster II Regatta Timer, Ref. 116680

The rolex yacht-master ii: for those who consider themselves rolex enthusiasts, it's one of the most polarizing watches the crown produces. and yet there is more – much more – to this relative behemoth than meets the eye. we wanted to see what would happen if we met this technically unique, programmable flyback yacht timer chronograph on its own terms – read on to join us in our journey into one of the most idiosyncratically styled and mechanically sophisticated rolexes ever made..

I’m going to be completely honest: I was thoroughly prepared to have a negative reaction to this watch. Let’s face it; it’s a head-scratcher for the average Rolex/Submariner/GMT Master/Day-Date lover. First of all it’s pretty damned big. This is a 44 mm watch; it was born a 44 mm watch and it’ll die a 44 mm watch and that is nothing you or anybody else can do about it. You can have it in four different metals, and therefore, weights, ranging from steel (heavy) to gold/steel (heavier) to solid yellow gold (even heavier) to  platinum and white gold combined (Schwarzeneggerian). It has a Cerachrom bezel in an absolutely screaming shade of blue, and it says YACHT-MASTER in giant letters right across the bottom third or so just to remove any lingering shade of doubt in the minds of any small-craft skipper for leagues around that they are in the presence of, well, the Master of a Yacht; it is not an introverted watch by any stretch of the imagination.

On top of everything else, the Yacht-Master II has a complication that pretty much no watch guy or gal ever can remember what do with, or has a perceived need for: it is a regatta timer, which is about as niche a complication as you can imagine. If you get a bunch of watch nuts together there is an excellent chance that you can get a more lucid explanation out of somebody for the Equation of Time than you can for a regatta timer (which is saying something) and it says something about the relative obscurity of the complication in general, and the relative niche-ness of the Yacht-Master II in particular, that when we got it into the office we had five people who live and breathe watches sitting around scratching our heads because no one could quite remember how the darned thing works. You put all those things together and you should have a watch that a dyed-in-the-wool horological classicist should thoroughly disdain. Right?

Actually, wrong. But let’s back up a bit.

First of all this is technically a very interesting watch and it’s worth your attention just on the level of interesting horological problem solving alone. A regatta timer is used by the skipper of a yacht to determine when their vessel is allowed to cross the starting line. Sailboats can’t just hover at the starting line of a yacht race, so what happens is that the racing committee establishes a countdown period during which the boats have to tack back and forth at the starting line without actually crossing; if you cross early, there is a penalty and if you are too cautious and cross late you will probably cross the finish line behind the boats that made it over the start line ahead of you. The countdown can be anywhere from five to ten minutes depending on the rules and race.

The Yacht-Master II is a programmable, flyback regatta timer that allows you to select a countdown interval of anything from one to ten minutes; in addition if you have started the countdown early or late, you can synchronize your watch “on the fly” when you hear the second of the two audible signals which are usually given at the start of a race (the signal to start the countdown comes first, and is usually followed by a warning signal closer to the start). Here’s how it works.

To set the countdown timer, you turn the bezel (Rolex calls it the "Command Bezel") a quarter turn to the left. This locks the lower chrono pusher and engages the setting mechanism for the triangular red countdown hand. You then unscrew the crown to its first position, and set the countdown hand – setting is one-way only but at 10 minutes, if you continue to turn the crown, the countdown hand will fly back to 1 and you can continue until you reach the desired number of minutes. When you’re done, you screw the crown back down, and turn the bezel back to its starting position, and you’re ready to regatta.

When the first gun (or other audible signal) is heard, you start the countdown . . . and that’s it. Now a really neat trick here is that you may, for some reason, have started your countdown too early, or too late. If that’s the case, all you have to do is wait for the second gun/signal, and hit the re-set button – the seconds hand will fly back to the zero mark and begin running again immediately; and the minute countdown hand will fly back to the nearest minute and likewise start counting down again. It’s the fact that the flyback is to the nearest minute, not to zero, that allows you to re-synch your countdown with the official countdown time, that gives the Yacht-Master II much of its utility, and much of its technical interest.

Okay, sure it’s technically interesting – but what about the aesthetics? All I can tell you is that, much to my very pleasant surprise, it was colossally fun to wear in every sense of the word. The fact that it is so unapologetically extroverted is actually the secret to its appeal.  The weight isn't a problem (at least, not for me, and not in steel) and I found I could wear it all day without discomfort despite the overall size – partly thanks to the downward curvature of the lugs, which ensured a comfortable fit on my 7 inch wrist.  The sharply contrasting deep blued hands, white dial, and red countdown hand – and, yes, that bright blue bezel – give the whole watch a suitably jaunty, nautical feel and make it a pleasure to look at (and at night visibility is very good; the lume on the hands and dial is almost startlingly bright).

Yes, this is an extroverted watch, but the quality of execution is very clean and very high (as is usually the case with Rolex) and it’s so much the opposite of what I’d ordinarily wear that having it on gave a feeling almost like a Walter Mitty fantasy coming to life. I felt like a guy who’s worn a blue suit and rep tie and driven a four door Merc his whole life, who somehow one day finds himself in a pair of ripped jeans and a beat up flight jacket, cruising down some winding secondary road on an old shovelhead Harley, and suddenly catches himself thinking, My god, all the wasted years. Ultimately I started to feel that objecting to the over-the-top-ness  of the Yacht-Master II was silly, even narcissistic – if you go into a Joss Whedon actioner expecting a Lars Von Trier art-house tearjerker to unspool, you probably have only yourself to blame.

It is a rationally appealing uitlitarian tool watch? I'm not the one to ask. There is no way for me to evaluate what someone who actually owns a ’36 Herreshoff classic yacht and takes it on the regatta circuit would actually think of the Yacht-Master II, or whether they would find it useful. But I can tell you that it is actually a ton of fun to wear, and a big part of the reason is the very thing many object to at first – that this is a watch that pulls no punches when it comes to being larger than life.

It has that one most essential element for something to be a successful style exercise: the courage of its convictions, and if you think of yourself resolutely as a smaller-than-forty millimeter, tasteful restraint kinda guy, get one on your wrist for a surprisingly refreshing change of pace, and you can feel larger than life too.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II 116680 as shown, $18,750, 44 mm diameter case in 904L stainless steel. Bidirectional rotatable "Command Bezel" with blue Cerachrom insert; water resistance 100 meters/10 bar.

Movement, Rolex 4161 self-winding programmable flyback regatta timer with mechanical memory and "on-the-fly" synchronization; Parachrom blue antimagnetic balance spring.  

Bracelet, Oyster, flat three piece links with Oysterlock safety clasp.

More info, of course, on Rolex.com .

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Rolex Yacht-Master II Ultimate Buying Guide

In the exclusive world of luxury timepieces, the Rolex Yacht-Master II stands as an example of opulence and precision engineering. Since its unveiling in 2007, it has not simply followed the footsteps of its prized predecessor but has charted a new course in luxury timepieces. This masterpiece blends the functional demands of regatta timing with the uncompromising quality synonymous with the Rolex name. Its signature feature, a programmable countdown with on-the-fly synchronization, showcases Rolex’s commitment to innovation, tailored specifically for the strategic demands of yacht racing.

As we look into its history, features, and most sought-after models, this guide is designed for those who appreciate the finer things in life. Whether you’re looking to invest in a luxury timepiece or expand an existing collection, the Rolex Yacht-Master II represents a pinnacle of horological craftsmanship, a tangible asset that surpasses time and trends. Read on to learn all there is to know about the Rolex Yacht-Master II. <> <>

A Brief History of the Rolex Yacht-Master II

The Rolex Yacht-Master II , introduced in 2007, marked a significant evolution in Rolex’s line of luxury watches, diverging from the brand’s typically conservative design ethos. It was a striking departure from its predecessor, the Yacht-Master, representing a bold new direction in both aesthetics and functionality.

The original models of the Yacht-Master II were the 18k yellow gold ref 116688 and the even more luxurious 18k white gold version with a platinum bezel, ref 116689. These models showcased a large, eye-catching design that was an immediate topic of debate among watch enthusiasts. While some admired its noticeable presence, others viewed it as a deviation from Rolex’s traditional design roots.

Responding to the changing economic landscape following the 2008 financial crash, Rolex expanded the Yacht-Master II collection in 2011 with the introduction of the ref. 116681, a more affordable Everose Rolesor model. This model featured a stainless steel case and outer bracelet links combined with an Everose gold winding crown, pushers, and central bracelet links. The collection further broadened its appeal in 2013 with the introduction of the all-steel version, ref. 116680, which also debuted a new caliber, the Cal. 4161, replacing the former Cal. 4160.

The only notable design update since its launch occurred in 2017, on the watch’s tenth anniversary. This update included changes to the hour markers and hands, namely the blue hour marker surrounds replaced with white gold, the 12 o’clock marker changed to an inverted triangle, and a taller marker at 6 o’clock. These changes aligned the Yacht-Master II more closely with the rest of Rolex’s Professional Collection, yet the changes were subtle enough that Rolex did not assign a new reference number.

Throughout its history, the Rolex Yacht-Master II has been distinguished by its unique regatta timer function, a testament to Rolex’s commitment to innovative and functional design. This feature, along with its distinctive aesthetic, has made the Yacht-Master II a popular, though somewhat polarizing, model among collectors and luxury watch enthusiasts.

Key Features of the Rolex Yacht-Master II

The Rolex Yacht-Master II stands out from the Rolex catalog with its massive round case and striking dial design. Here are the distinguishing features of the Rolex Yacht-Master II. <>

The Oyster Case at 44mm

The Yacht-Master II’s Oyster case measures a notable 44mm in diameter, contributing to the watch’s bold aesthetic and enhancing the dial’s legibility. This large size is practical for a sports watch, ensuring that crucial timekeeping information is always easily readable. <>

Ring Command System

One of the Yacht-Master II’s innovative features is the Ring Command System. This system integrates the bezel, crown, and internal mechanism, providing a seamless way to set and synchronize the watch’s various functions, including its unique regatta timer.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II allows the wearer to choose a countdown interval, ranging from one to ten minutes, using its programmable flyback regatta timer, displayed on the middle of the dial. Additionally, the watch can be synchronized “on the fly” with audible cues that are commonly given at the start of regatta races. <>

Cerachrom Insert Bezel (for steel, Rolesor, and yellow gold models)

For the steel, steel and Everose, and yellow gold models, the bezel features a blue Cerachrom insert, made from an exceptionally hard and virtually scratchproof ceramic. This material is impervious to UV rays and corrosion, ensuring the bezel’s color and finish remain pristine over time. <>

Platinum Bezel in sandblasted finish (for white gold model)

Meanwhile, the 18k white gold model boasts of a platinum Ring Command Bezel, with a sandblasted background and polished graduations. <>

Chromalight Display

The Chromalight display on the Yacht-Master II offers superior legibility in all lighting conditions, especially in the dark. This innovative feature ensures that the watch face is easily readable, which is vital during demanding activities like sailing. <>

Perpetual Caliber 4160 / 4161

At the core of the Yacht-Master II is the Perpetual Caliber 4160, and for later models the 4161, a self-winding mechanical movement developed entirely by Rolex. Known for its precision and reliability, these movements showcase of Rolex’s expertise in watchmaking, featuring a programmable countdown with a mechanical memory, crucial for timing in regattas.

Models from 2007 to 2013 use the Caliber 4160. In 2013, with the introduction of the stainless steel model, the Caliber 4161 was given additional refinements such as a crisper feel to the pushers and greater reliability. Both movements possess the blue Parachrom hairspring that protects the movement from shocks and offer 72 hours of power reserve.

<> Models of the Rolex Yacht-Master II

There are four models available for the Rolex Yacht-Master II, three of which remain in production as of 2024. The white gold ref. 116689 was discontinued in 2022 but remains available in the pre-owned market.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Stainless Steel Blue Bezel 116680

The Rolex Yacht-Master II Stainless Steel Blue Bezel 116680, introduced at Baselworld 2013, is a standout in the Yacht-Master II collection. This model features a large 44mm stainless steel case, showcasing Rolex’s expertise in crafting durable and stylish sports watches.

Its most striking feature is the blue Cerachrom bezel, a testament to Rolex’s innovation in materials, known for its scratch resistance and color permanence. The watch is equipped with the Rolex 4161 self-winding programmable flyback regatta timer movement, emphasizing its utility for sailing and regattas.

Its aesthetic is bold and extroverted, with a white dial, contrasting deep blue hands, and a red countdown hand, all contributing to its nautical theme. This model manages to balance Rolex’s high standards of functionality with a distinctive, eye-catching design​​. <> <>

Rolex Yacht-Master II Stainless Steel and Everose Gold 116681

The Rolex Yacht-Master II Stainless Steel and Everose Gold 116681, introduced in 2011, is a striking addition to the Yacht-Master II collection. It features a unique blend of robust 904L stainless steel and luxurious 18k Everose gold, embodying both resilience and elegance.

This model stands out with its vibrant blue Cerachrom bezel and a white dial – both enhanced with Everose gold elements. The watch is equipped with the advanced Rolex Cal. 4161 movement, offering specialized functionalities like a programmable countdown timer with mechanical memory and on-the-fly synchronization, tailored for yacht racing.

The combination of two-tone metals, along with its functional complexity and sizeable 44mm case, makes the Yacht-Master II 116681 a notable and luxurious sports watch. This model has garnered attention for its blend of technical prowess and bold aesthetic appeal. <> <>

Rolex Yacht-Master II Yellow Gold 116688

The Rolex Yacht-Master II Yellow Gold 116688, launched in 2007, is a landmark in Rolex’s esteemed collection. As the pioneering model of the Yacht-Master II series, this timepiece redefined the luxury sports watch segment.

It boasts a substantial 44mm case crafted from luxurious yellow gold, exuding both elegance and strength. The watch is notable for its blue Cerachrom bezel, a material celebrated for its exceptional scratch resistance and enduring color.

Inside, it initially housed the Rolex 4160 movement, renowned for its precise regatta timer function, pivotal for yacht racing enthusiasts. In 2013, Rolex introduced an upgrade to the 4161 movement, further enhancing the watch’s performance.

The Yacht-Master II 116688 blends luxurious gold craftsmanship with functional, sports-oriented features, establishing it as a prized and distinct offering in Rolex’s portfolio. This model’s combination of opulence and utility captures the essence of Rolex’s innovation in luxury sports watch design. <> <>

Rolex Yacht-Master II White Gold Platinum Bezel 116689

The Rolex Yacht-Master II reference 116689, introduced in 2007, is a distinctive model in Rolex’s lineup, combining 18k white gold with a platinum bezel. This watch stands out for its substantial 44mm case size, making it one of Rolex’s largest offerings.

Notably, the 116689 was part of the initial Yacht-Master II launch, which marked Rolex’s venture into more complex watch designs. This model features a regatta countdown timer, which was a significant technical achievement for Rolex.

The innovative Ring Command Bezel, directly linked to the watch’s internal movement, enables easy setting of the countdown timer. Inside, the watch initially used the Caliber 4160, which was updated to the Caliber 4161 in 2013.

The ref 116689’s unique combination of luxury materials, substantial size, and advanced functionality make it a noteworthy and potentially future classic Rolex model​​.

<> Final Thoughts

The Rolex Yacht-Master II series, with its unique blend of luxury, precision, and specialized functionality, offers a remarkable range of choices for collectors and enthusiasts. Whether it’s the bold statement of the Yellow Gold 116688, the innovative design of the Stainless Steel and Everose Gold 116681, or the understated elegance of the White Gold Platinum Bezel 116689, each model holds a special place in Rolex’s illustrious lineup. These watches are not only timekeeping instruments but also symbols of a luxurious lifestyle and a passion for the maritime world.

For those seeking to acquire or learn more about these exquisite timepieces, SwissWatchExpo presents an ideal destination. Their expertise and collection cater to a discerning clientele, making them a valuable resource for anyone looking to invest in a Rolex Yacht-Master II or expand their luxury watch collection.

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The Rolex Yacht-Master II Reference 116681

2007 was the year Rolex proved that it could only be taunted so much by detractors for the lack of complications in its lineup before it would come out swinging. It has long been the anti-Rolex league’s favorite go-to criticism, holding up the Swiss giant’s catalog of ruggedly simple, almost minimalist, three-hand watches and sneeringly comparing them to the overtly functional pieces from the likes of Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin. Did Rolex lack the imagination to compete with the sky charts and moonphases of other watchmakers? Or was it the technical prowess it was missing? Rolex took it with its usual granite stoicism for decades, with the modesty of the Day-Date’s dual calendar or the Daytona’s chronograph seemingly as extravagant as it was prepared to go. Then, the iconic Swiss watch manufacturer released the Rolex Yacht-Master II series.

Vastly different from the original and less complex Yacht-Master, the Rolex Yacht Master II is a vibrant behemoth that contains one of the most technically impressive complications ever made. As a product, it could also serve as the dictionary definition of the word “niche.” Powered by a new caliber that required more than 35,000 hours to devise, the result was a watch that’s sole purpose was to help yacht skippers coordinate the starting procedure of a sailing regatta. The first models of the collection were available in either yellow or white gold. Then In 2011, the Yacht master II ref. 116681 appeared, which is a striking Rolesor variant that blends tough 904L stainless steel with precious 18k Everose gold. If you’re into big watches that make a bold statement on the wrist, then keep reading for everything you need to know about the Rolex Yacht-Master II 116681

Rolex Yacht-Master II 116681

Yacht-Master II Reference 116681 Key Features:

• Reference Number: 116681
• Year of Introduction: 2011
• Case Size: 44mm
• Materials: Everose Rolesor (wo-tone stainless steel and Everose gold)
• Functions: Time w/ running seconds, regatta chronograph featuring a programmable countdown timer with mechanical memory and on-the-fly synchronization
• Dial: White w/ Luminous Hour Markers
• Hands: Straight or Mercedes
• Luminous Material: Chromalight
• Bezel: Ring Command Bezel; blue Cerachrom insert w/ 10-minute scale
• Crystal: Sapphire (Flat)
• Movement: Rolex Cal. 4161 (automatic w/ 72-hour power reserve)
• Water Resistance: 100 meters (330 feet)
• Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet (two-tone stainless steel and Everose gold)
• Clasp: Oysterlock with 5mm Easylink extension
• Approx. Price (USD): $25,350 (Retail); $30,000 – $35,000 (Pre-Owned)

Click here for our Ultimate Buying Guide on the Rolex Yacht-Master II

Everose Rolesor Yacht Master II Design

While the styles of the Yacht-Master II watches have split opinions and are a world away from the handsome elegance that has been the Rolex hallmark for over 100 years, this technical yet luxurious sports watch has won plenty of fans. Its concept and sheer audacity have also silenced many of the brand’s critics and Rolex has proved that, should it decide to mix it up in the world of complications, it can compete with the best of them.

As mentioned, the first two Rolex Yacht Master II models that debuted in 2007 were in yellow gold (ref. 116688) and white gold (ref. 116689, which was discontinued in 2022). Five years later, Rolex unveiled the Yacht-Master II ref. 116681 as the two-tone Everose gold and stainless steel variant. The combination of the two metals, the bright blue bezel (crafted from Rolex’s ceramic alloy, Cerachrom), and the flashy dial is certainly not the subtlest of Rolex watches, but somehow, the Yacht-Master II 116681 just works.

The Everose gold elements – on the bezel numerals, crown, pushers, snailing around the seconds sub-dial, and center links of the sporty Oyster bracelet – soften some of the brashness of the all-steel or yellow gold versions. As a variant, it’s a definite eye-catcher. It has retained its rather graceful proportions, especially for such a large piece and one that crams in so much functionality. The 44mm case (the biggest case size in the Rolex fleet that’s only shared by the Deepsea) affords a large surface area for the dial designers to play with. And it’s just as well. There is a lot of information displayed on the watch’s face, but the logical placement of each element gives it legible readability.

At the top is a horseshoe-shaped track numbered to ten. The starting gun in a regatta is preceded by a warning signal, often either five or ten minutes beforehand. It informs participants the countdown has begun, and the Yacht-Master II’s curved gauge is there to precisely time the flying start – the long dagger-like hand marks the countdown seconds while the small red arrow-tipped hand displays the countdown minutes.

However, the clever part comes should our yacht skipper need to reset the countdown for any reason. The watch is the first in the world to feature a mechanical memory with both flyback and fly-forward functionality, and it allows the regatta timer to reset to synchronize with the official race timer – either forwards or backwards to the nearest minute. Therefore, should the countdown have been triggered too early or too late, it’s a simple step to bring it back in line.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Dial Update

On the occasion of the 10th anniversary of the Yacht-Master II, Rolex rolled out redesigned dials across the entire collection – including, of course, the Yacht-Master II ref. 116681. So what changed?

First, Rolex replaced the original straight hands with a Mercedes handset, which is much more common across the brand’s sports watches. Also, the hands of the Yacht Master II 116681 went from a dark blue to Everose gold – a nice touch to match the rest of the pink-toned details of the watch. Another dial update that occurred to bring the face of the Yacht-Master II more in line with Rolex’s other sports watches concerns the shape of the hour markers.

Earlier models featured square lume-filled indexes for each hour. However, after the 2017 dial redesign, Yacht-Master II watches now included an inverted triangle and a rectangle at 12 and 6, respectively. Naturally, since the Yacht-Master II 116681 is an Everose Rolesor edition, the hour markers feature Everose gold surrounds.

Yacht-Master II Ring Command Bezel and In-House Caliber

The key to the impressive functionality of the Rolex Yachtmaster II lies in the model’s most conspicuous component: the bright blue Cerachrom bezel with its oversized, pink golden numerals. More than simply being the watch’s border, the bezel is central to its overall operation.

Directly linked to the internal movement, the Ring Command Bezel, to give it its proper title, unlocks the programmable actions of the watch by rotating it counter-clockwise through 90 degrees. With the bezel activated, the crown can be used to set the countdown duration and the two pushers at the two and four o’clock positions start and stop the chronograph and work the flyback function. It sounds like a convoluted affair, but in reality, there is a beautifully designed intuitiveness to getting the most out of the Yacht-Master II.

The Rolex engineers have pared down the process as much as possible, while still retaining all the necessary performance. Underneath everything lies the movement. The original references were released with the Cal. 4160, a heavily reworked version of the Daytona’s Cal. 4130, complete with the vertical clutch that eliminates backlash on the chronograph seconds hand.

By 2013, Rolex had perfected the purpose-built Cal. 4161 specifically for the Yacht-Master II. At the time, it was the company’s most component-heavy movement to date, and the Caliber 4161 is constructed from 360 separate parts. As well as the improved accuracy and shock resistance provided by including Rolex’s proprietary Parachrom hairspring, the 31-jewel, high-beat movement also has a power reserve of 72 hours.

Over A Decade of the Rolex 116681 Yacht-Master II

The Rolex Yacht-Master II ref. 116681 has been a part of the brand’s catalog for over a decade now. Despite the movement update in 2013 to the Caliber 4131 and the dial update that occurred in 2017, Rolex has retained the same reference number since this two-tone variant’s release in 2011. And that’s quite curious given that Rolex has allocated new reference numbers to other watch models that have undergone much more subtle updates. Rolex truly works in mysterious ways!

It’s also interesting to note that in 2022, Rolex discontinued the white gold and platinum Yacht-Master II ref. 116689, which brings the Yacht-Master II lineup down from four references to only three. Perhaps the end of the Rolex Yacht-Master II ref. 116681 is near? Though we don’t wish for that to happen, it’s not uncommon for the modern-day Rolex to replace models after about a decade (or less) of production.

While the Rolex Yacht-Master II 116681 has an undeniable heft and is ultra-luxurious, it can easily be worn all day. Its watertight Oyster case ensures it’s more than a match for the rigors of life on the ocean and its robust self-winding movement is top-notch. As a skipper’s watch, this Rolex Yacht-Master II is in a class all its own. But even if you don’t sail competitively and only ever use the watch’s innovative timing function in the kitchen (if at all,) the steel and Everose gold Yacht-Master II ref. 116681 is a head-turning luxury sports watch that’s unlike any other in Rolex’s lineup.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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Yacht-Master

A valuable tool watch

A technical and elegant watch, the Yacht-Master is a reliable nautical instrument on the wrist.

Its graduated bidirectional bezel allows for precise measurement and reading of time intervals when navigating. This tool watch benefits from innovations that improve its legibility and wearers’ comfort in all circumstances.

Graduated bidirectional bezel Precision and legibility on the wrist

The bidirectional bezel with raised 60-minute graduations is a key feature of the Yacht-Master. Entirely crafted in precious metal – 18 kt Everose gold or 950 platinum – or fitted with a black Cerachrom bezel insert in high-technology ceramic, it is an essential part of the watch’s identity.

With its polished markers and numerals, which stand out clearly from the matt surface, the bezel guarantees optimal reading of time intervals, for example, the sailing time between two buoys. Furthermore, the detailed graduation of the first 15 minutes offers extra precision when reading navigational time.

The bidirectional rotating mechanism relies on a ring bearing 120 notches for precise and fluid adjustment to the nearest half-minute. Lastly, the bezel has a knurled edge, making it easy to manipulate in all conditions.

Gold, Rolesor and Rolesium Precious alloys and exclusive combinations

Rolex gold is an intrinsic part of the Yacht-Master’s identity: 18 kt yellow, white or Everose gold are comprised of 750‰ pure gold and blends of silver, copper and palladium. They are all entirely created and cast in our own foundry.

The Yacht-Master in 18 kt Everose gold is available in two diameters: 37 mm and 40 mm. Each of these versions is also available with a diamond-paved dial. The 18 kt yellow gold and 18 kt white gold versions are reserved for the Yacht-Master 42.

Rolex gold is also combined with Oystersteel – a particularly corrosion-resistant alloy – for the Everose Rolesor versions of the Yacht-Master 37 and Yacht-Master 40. They combine a bezel and centre links in Everose gold with a middle case, winding crown, case back and outer links in Oystersteel.

The Yacht-Master 37 and the Yacht-Master 40 are also available in Rolesium versions, an alliance of platinum and steel. They combine a platinum bezel with a middle case, winding crown, case back and bracelet in Oystersteel.

RLX titanium Robustness and lightness

RLX titanium made its first appearance in the Yacht-Master range in 2023. The grade 5 titanium alloy selected by Rolex is a particularly lightweight metal and is noted for its mechanical strength and corrosion resistance. Its use for the Yacht-Master 42’s case and bracelet has reduced the weight of the watch by around a third compared to a similar watch in steel. RLX titanium is complex to work with and has required the introduction of special production processes.

The combination of polished, high-sheen and technical satin finishes illustrates our excellence in machining and finishing techniques. Together, they produce a subtle blend of textures and light, setting off the gleaming polished surface of the crown guard and the lustrous high-sheen on the top edges of the lugs against the matt of the technical satin finishing – with its pronounced grain – visible on the rest of the case and bracelet.

Bracelets, clasps and extension systems Comfort and security on the wrist

Chromalight display and cyclops lens for optimal legibility.

Equipped with the Chromalight display and the Cyclops lens, the Yacht-Master combines two exclusive Rolex features that improve legibility.

The Chromalight display provides optimum legibility, whatever the light conditions. The luminescent material is applied by experts to the hands and the large hour markers which have simple shapes (triangle, circle and rectangle) that are characteristic of Rolex professional watches. Brilliant white in daylight, this material emits an intense blue glow in the dark.

Introduced in 2008, the Chromalight display was optimized in 2021 to maintain the intensity of the blue glow for longer. The performance of this luminescent substance clearly exceeds the standards required by watchmaking norms.

Designed to improve the readability of the date thanks to its magnifying effect, the Cyclops lens is both an aesthetic and technical signature of the brand. This Rolex invention was patented in the early 1950s. Like the crystal of the watch, it is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from a double anti-reflective coating.

Calibres 3235 and 2236 Superlative performance

Hands-On – The Updated Rolex Yacht-Master II (and a look back at its great features)

Using the term ‘update’ when describing the “new” Rolex Yacht-Master II is almost an exercise in irony, as the changes made by the “Crown” to its Regatta watch are minimal. However, the reality is that we indeed have a new iteration of this niche model, although there has been no change to its reference number ( Ref. 116680 for the steel version ). Sounds like a good opportunity to look back at the Yacht-Master II and its great functionality.

The Updated Rolex Yacht-Master II

To keep things brief, the update concerns the dial only. In fact, details of the dial. The main objective of Rolex was to increase the legibility of this professional watch, in order to make sure that no confusion can possibly arise – and probably give it a bit more of Rolex DNA. For that, the dial of the Rolex Yacht-Master II now features a triangular hour marker at 12 o’clock and a rectangular hour marker at 6 o’clock for more intuitive reading of the watch – instead of square markers all around the dial. 12 and 6 markers are now clearly distinguished from the rest of the dial.

The hands have also been updated. Before this facelift, the YM II featured rather thin baton hands (blued on the steel version, or matching the case on gold versions) with a splash of luminescent material. As of 2017, the Yacht-Master will rely on the iconic “Mercedes” hand for the hour, with a large luminescent disc, clearly distinguishing it from the minute hand -which is still a baton shape, however it now features a cut-out section so as not to obstruct the view of the Regatta countdown. This configuration is available for all Yacht-Master II models: in steel (Ref. 116680), in Everose Rolesor version combining steel and 18k Everose gold (Ref. 116681), in 18k yellow gold (ref. 116688) and in 18k white gold with platinum bezel (Ref. 116689).

For the rest, the Rolex Yacht-Master II remains unchanged. It still relies on its 44mm case water-resistant to 100m, an Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock folding safety clasp and Easylink 5mm comfort extension link (the center link of the bracelet remains polished, while the rest is satin-finished), a Triplock winding crown, protected by a crown guard that is an integral part of the middle case, screwed caseback (plain, no sapphire crystal) and a blue ceramic bezel with platinum- or gold-PVD numerals and inscriptions (with the exception of the white gold version, which keeps it sold platinum bezel).

Inside, is the impressive calibre 4161, a mechanical chronograph movement with column wheel and vertical clutch exclusive to the Rolex Yacht-Master II ( very different from the 4130 of the Daytona ), with automatic winding in both directions, 72-hour power reserve, antimagnetic Parachrom hairspring and large balance wheel with variable inertia. This complex movement is, as is every Rolex calibre, certified as a  Superlative Chronometer,  having satisfied a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, which exceed the COSC standards and which applies to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement. This results in a a -2/+2 sec/day accuracy and a 5-year warranty.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II in Action

The Rolex Yacht-Master II is a chronograph, however a very special type of chronograph, also called a Regatta watch or a Skipper watch. Indeed, don’t expect it to measure intervals of time, like most chronographs. For that, you should take a look at the iconic Daytona , a watch made to measure speeds (or anything else from one instant of time to another). The YM II is different. It features a programmable countdown with a mechanical memory that can be synchronized on the fly. This watch, as we said in the intro, is very niche , answering to the specific needs for precise timing during the crucial starting sequence of a regatta.

While this might sound complex at first, and while the display of its dial is rather unique, the Rolex Yacht-Master II is, on the contrary, an extremely intuitive watch. This watch is all about man / machine interaction and natural use of the commands, thanks to one clever feature, the “ Ring Command Bezel ” (which is now also used in the Sky-Dweller ) and refers to a bezel that is not there to keep track of events but is integrated in the chain of actions and interacts directly with the movement.

Because the crown and the two pushers were already utilized to set time / wind the movement or act on the start / reset of the chronograph functions, Rolex had to imagine a new way to set the countdown, without adding a third pusher on the case (which in Rolex’s minds would have been heresy). The idea was to create a bezel that interacts with the movement. Rotating the bezel 90° gives access to the programming function of the countdown duration, which is set via the winding crown. Turning the Ring Command bezel back in the other direction then locks and memorizes the programming.

How does it work in real life – or at least during a regatta? Unlike racing cars, regatta boats can’t stand immobile on a starting line. Thus, they sail around the starting line, waiting for the departure, which means it’s crucial to know the exact moment of the departure. The starting procedure of a regatta generally unfolds in three stages, marked by sound and visual signals. This preparatory phase lasts from 5 to 10 minutes according to the type of regatta. This where you start to use the Rolex Yacht-Master II for what it is.

The procedure in details:

• Phase 1 – programming – The skipper programmes a countdown duration of up to 10 minutes on his Yacht-Master II according to the regatta rules. For that, he just needs to rotate the bezel 90 degrees, set the right duration with the crown and the central red arrow hand on the dial will position to the right timing. Once programmed, the countdown duration is mechanically memorized so that when the countdown is reset, it automatically keeps exactly the same setting. Rotating the bezel back to its initial position locks and memorizes the programming.
• Phase 2 – launching the countdown – a gun shot and a flag signal the start of the regatta countdown. The skipper launches the countdown by pressing the pusher at 2. The centre seconds hand starts running and indicates elapsed seconds in the same way as a traditional chronograph. The red arrow hand indicates the remaining minutes on the 10- to 0-minute countdown scale on the dial.
• Phase 3 – Synchronization – Race officials give a first preparatory signal by firing the gun a second time and hoisting another flag. The skipper has an opportunity to synchronize the watch countdown with the official countdown – to make sure his timing session is precise . For that, he’ll just have to press the pusher at 4 that acts like a flyback. The second hand (and only that hand, the countdown hand still runs) reset on the fly and it runs again as soon as the pusher is released. The countdown minute hand is automatically synchronized to the nearest minute to compensate for any premature or delayed launch of the chronograph at the first signal.
• Phase 4 – Synchronization 2, one minute before the start – A second preparatory signal is given with a blast of a horn, and the lowering of a flag. The skipper can check at a glance that the countdown of the Yacht-Master II is properly synchronized with the official timing.
• Phase 5 – start of the race – A last gun shot and lowering of a flag indicates the start of the race. If the skipper managed to use the Yacht-Master II correctly, it will accurately indicate the departure time to the closest second. With this, he or she will benefit from the advantage of knowing exactly what time the race has officially started.

As you’ve seen, the Rolex Yacht-Master II is a complex watch, with a proper purpose-built concept behind it. Of course, it shouldn’t be reduced just to the regatta use, however this function remains very restricted outside of this context. The Yacht-Master II is a often seen as a statement watch, as the largest proposition in the catalogue (together with the Deep-Sea), with the exclusivity of being available in various materials, including precious ones. Rolex.com .

Technical Specifications – Rolex Yacht-Master II 2017

• Case: 44mm diameter – steel / steel and 18k rose gold / 18k yellow gold / 18k white gold – ceramic bezel or solid platinum bezel – sapphire crystal on the dial side – 100m water resistant
• Movement: calibre 4161, in-house – Superlative Chronometer certified – automatic – 72h power reserve – 4Hz frequency – hours, minutes, small second, regatta chronograph with programmable regatta countdown with mechanical memory, retrograde minute hand and central second hand
• Bracelet: 3-link Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock folding safety clasp and Easylink 5mm comfort extension link
• Steel – 116680 – EUR 17,150
• Steel and Rose gold – 116681 – EUR 23,050
• Yellow gold – 116688 – EUR 39,900
• White gold / platinum – 116689 – EUR 44,100

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