how to build a canoe catamaran

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CatamaYak: How to Build a Kayak Catamaran

August 14, 2013 By John P.

We happen to own four identical kayaks, we bought the Equinox 10.4 kayaks at Costco, and we started working on ways to hack them to make them even better! First, I hacked a motor onto my kayak , and then I thought I’d give it a shot and see if we could build a catamaran out of a couple of em.

The CatamaYak Concept

When we go out on the water there is usually a group of us. Some are faster than others, and some just enjoy a leisurely time on the lake. We wanted to be able to turn a couple of kayaks into a floating relaxation station and give it a motor so that a couple of people could simply sit back and relax while still being able to tag along.

The CatamaYak needed to have a few important characteristics:

• be light and easy to assemble at the lake
• be extremely waterproof and not get slippery
• be durable enough to take a pounding from the waves
• be rigid enough to deal with the forces encountered

Given the design considerations I took a few measurements and drew up a quick sketch of the components and how I imagined they would fit together.

If you are going to design your own there are a few important things to keep in mind.

• The bow (nose) of the kayak is generally narrower than the stern (rear). So don’t just make the front and rear crossbeams the same length or it will look funny and not perform as well.
• You could substitute wood 2x4s for PVC in my design, but its not going to last as long and its going to flex and expand as it takes on water. Its also going to be a LOT heavier.
• If you intend to add a motor like I did you must make sure that the distance between the two kayaks in the center is sufficient for the motor to turn 360 degrees without the blades hitting the side of the watercraft.

The Kayak Catamaran Parts List

Everything I used for this experiment came from Lowe’s. I’m sure you could also find it at Home Depot or other home improvement stores.

• 3 – 10′ sections of 2″ PVC pipe
• 4 – 2″ PVC T sections
• 4 – 2″ PVC end caps
• PVC cleaner and cement
• 1 – 18″ x 72″ wood board
• 4 – 2″ stainless steel U bolts with lock nuts and washers
• 4 – 5″ stainless steel eye bolts with lock nuts and washers
• 1 – 8′ 2×4 (or a couple of 8″ scraps)
• 2 – 8″ 5/8×16 bolts with lock nuts and washers
• 4 – Ratcheting straps

I also needed a rubber mallet, wrenches, a drill, a set of drill bits, and a table saw. You could do without the table saw by having the store cut the wood for you.

Building the Kayak Catamaran

The first thing I did was set the two kayaks beside one another and lay the crossbeam PVC pipes on top of it. This allowed me to take measurements and make sure my design was roughly accurate.

It turns out that the exact finished dimensions worked perfectly for my kayaks and particular brand of trolling motor (Minn Kota 30 pound unit). See the design sketch above if you have Equinox 10.4 kayaks and want to exactly duplicate this build.

I then cut all the PVC pipes and dry fit the pieces. I used my table saw to cut the PVC, but you could use a hacksaw and do it by hand, or you could use a reciprocating saw or basically anthing with a blade long enough to go through 2″ of PVC. Its a very soft material so its easy to cut – but keep your cut very straight as you go. The pieces won’t fit properly if the cuts are all crooked.

Then it was time to attach the pieces. First, you must start with the rectangular center frame, and you have to be VERY careful when assembling this piece to make sure you get it extremely straight!

I carefully cleaned and cemented each fitting and lightly attached a T union to one end of the support frame. I then VERY QUICKLY laid it on the flat piece of wood to make sure the T’s were pointing straight. After a little adjusting I took a rubber mallet and pounded the T’s on as far as they would go.

You’ll know when the pieces are fully inserted because there is a little ridge in each connector or end cap that won’t let the pipe go any farther. So you don’t need to worry that you put it in too far. In fact, if you follow my design its extremely important that all PVC is assembled as tightly as possible for proper fit and structural integrity.

If done right you can look inside the T fitting and see there are no gaps and some of the cement is pretty much sealing all the way around the tube where they meet.

First glue up both end pieces, then attach the two long PVC supports to one end, and follow up by attaching the other end piece – which will require you to glue up two pipes at the same time. Work quickly as the PVC cement drys fast! And remember – HAMMER EVERYTHING TOGETHER WITH A RUBBER MALLET!

After that you’re in the home stretch. Time to glue on the cross beam pieces. These are the most critical joints so make sure they are very clean and you have plenty of cement. You don’t want these to break on the water! Also, notice again that in my design the front and rear are different lengths. Here is a photo showing just one side glued up.

Once you’ve finished connecting all the PVC joints and adding end caps, you can lay the frame back down on your kayaks and begin attaching the connecting hardware. First up, the wooden platform needs to be connected on top. This serves two purposes. First, it provides a lot of torsional rigidity. And secondly, it gives you a spot where you can put stuff!

I used 4 long eye bolts pointing upwards to connect the wood to my PVC frame by drilling down through the wood and directly through the center of each of the 4 T-connectors in the corners. By using the eye bolts it gives connection points in each of the 4 corners that can be used for lashing things to the top, or could even be used for lifting / hanging the platform.

You’re going to attach 4 eye bolts pointing downward from the end of each crossbeam. These are going to be used for connecting the ratcheting strap to hold the kayaks in place.

The other end of the strap mounting is a U bolt mounted directly on the platform. Make sure and leave enough room that the ratchet can be entirely on top when its mounted securely. This does a couple of things, but most importantly it allows you to ratchet it up a little while on the water if it loosens up, which it will do a bit when it gets wet. I’ve already proven out this point on the Lake, so don’t skip it.

You’re about done at this point! Now if you intend to mount a motor on it you need to add a wood block that will fit it. I accomplished this by cutting two 2×4″s down to 8″ wide. These were attached with several stainless steel screws and an L bracket (found near the fencing stuff in the lumber department) for some added rigidity. I wanted to make sure there was NO flex with the motor so all of the power translated to forward momentum instead of any wiggle in the mount.

At this point you should be done and ready to simply slip a ratcheting strap under each mounting point, front and rear, on both Kayaks and secure them tightly.

We took the double Kayak Catamaran out on the lake for the day and it performed FAR better than I ever expected! The little 30 pound Minn Kota trolling motor was able to EASILY push the watercraft! By the way, you need to really watch the video I did about the single Kayak motor mount in order to see how to wire it up and which battery to use, etc. But even with the little trolling motor battery I used we were out on the lake messing around with the motor in use for over an hour and only used 20% of the battery life.

Not only was this rig able to easily push and steer the CatamaYak, but we were able to even TOW both of the other Kayaks without any issue! Amazing.

A couple of last little things. You’ll see in all of the photos that the wood panel in the middle is exposed untreated wood. That’s because we bought some special textured extremely waterproof paint to cover it with, but I didn’t do it before the first trip out to the lake. We’ll be painting it for long term durability soon.

Finally, if you do this, you’re technically changing your kayak into a home built motor boat. And in Texas, and probably most states, you’re going to have to register it as a watercraft. It costs like $30 in Texas to do it, but be warned that if the lake police come by you could be ticketed for taking this on the water without registration. So make sure you’re covered so you don’t worry about it.

Oh, and be prepared for a LOT of attention on the water! Because no one has ever seen anything like this before so they’ll all want to be checking it out!

So, that’s it! I hope you guys enjoy the hack / build. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below and I’ll help as best I can. This is a project that you can build in just a couple of hours if you have the right tools, and the entire cost was around $100 including PVC, wood, bolts, paint, etc. So that’s a pretty good value!

John P. is a former CEO, former TV Show Host, and the Founder and Wizard behind Texas Metal Works . You can find him on Twitter , Facebook and LinkedIn . Feel free to send shoutouts, insults, and praise. Or Money. Money is good.

May 11, 2016 at 9:30 pm

This is awesome! I am with Robert on the straps..confused about the role of the U bolts. I thought the ratchet strap hooked back to the platform eye bolt. Please clarify. By the way John, why did you take yours apart?

May 12, 2016 at 10:32 am

I used the u-bolts on the platform so that the base of the ratchets could lay flat against the wood once everything was tightened up. This way when you’re on the water you can use one hand to ratchet it tighter if need be.

You may be able to use the same I look somewhere and put both ends of the ratchet on it. You just want to make sure that you have enough room for the straps to Route Around everything and still be accessible when you’re on the water. It could be fairly disastrous to have anything separate with your stuff on that Central platform. It would pretty much just think…

I disassembled mine because I wasn’t going to register it as a watercraft, and it takes up too much room in the garage for something I’m not using constantly. If we had a lake house I would have definitely left it hooked up. It was great! :-)

December 14, 2015 at 5:37 pm

This is something I have been wanting to do for a long time. Great instructions. One thing that isn’t clear to me is how the ratchet straps attach to the u-bolts. Could yo show a top view picture to make it easy to see? Thanks.

January 5, 2016 at 10:59 pm

Sorry Robert, I took it apart a while back so I can’t take a photo any more. But since the ratcheting straps have hooks on them, as long as you get them hooked into the eye bolt and just tighten them up, they’ll stay! :-)

April 10, 2015 at 10:53 am

Great modification! I have 2 identical Perception Sport Pescador 120 kayaks and this has definitely inspired me to build a similar setup. I also own a Hobie Adventure island and love the extra space gained from the trapoline sides between the kayak and the amas (just like your wooden platform has done). You could also add additional cargo space to the void formed between the wooden platform and the front of the two kayaks from a lightweight water repellent material. Great work, thanks for sharing!

July 14, 2014 at 9:27 am

I wanted to say thank you for posting this project. My son is handicapped and i had wanted to take him our on my kayaks and could not imagine how to make it safe for him to enjoy. This is perfect. We even got a thumbs up from the Vessel Assist Boat Crew on our Maiden Voyage. The stability is amazing even in Lake Washington with the chop and larger motorized vessels. Your measurements were spot on for our boats. High Five! Would love to share a pic. This has opened up a whole new world to a boy and his dog. Thank you!

July 23, 2014 at 11:30 pm

Yeah! I’m so happy to hear that this was helpful! :-)

August 15, 2013 at 8:33 am

That definitely seems easier than I thought.

August 14, 2013 at 2:40 pm

I was going to say if John built it a Catastrophe but it looks pretty good. Cali has large feet or John has small ones. :)

August 14, 2013 at 1:10 pm

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Catamaran Design Formulas

• Post author By Rick
• Post date June 29, 2010
• 10 Comments on Catamaran Design Formulas

Part 2: W ith permission from Terho Halme – Naval Architect

While Part 1 showcased design comments from Richard Woods , this second webpage on catamaran design is from a paper on “How to dimension a sailing catamaran”, written by the Finnish boat designer, Terho Halme. I found his paper easy to follow and all the Catamaran hull design equations were in one place.  Terho was kind enough to grant permission to reproduce his work here.

Below are basic equations and parameters of catamaran design, courtesy of Terho Halme. There are also a few references from ISO boat standards. The first step of catamaran design is to decide the length of the boat and her purpose. Then we’ll try to optimize other dimensions, to give her decent performance. All dimensions on this page are metric, linear dimensions are in meters (m), areas are in square meters (m2), displacement volumes in cubic meters (m3), masses (displacement, weight) are in kilograms (kg), forces in Newton’s (N), powers in kilowatts (kW) and speeds in knots. 

Please see our catamarans for sale by owner page if you are looking for great deals on affordable catamarans sold directly by their owners.

Length, Draft and Beam

There are two major dimensions of a boat hull: The length of the hull L H  and length of waterline L WL  . The following consist of arbitrary values to illustrate a calculated example. 

L H  = 12.20      L WL  = 12.00

After deciding how big a boat we want we next enter the length/beam ratio of each hull, L BR . Heavy boats have low value and light racers high value. L BR  below “8” leads to increased wave making and this should be avoided. Lower values increase loading capacity. Normal L BR  for a cruiser is somewhere between 9 and 12. L BR  has a definitive effect on boat displacement estimate.  

• Tags Buying Advice , Catamaran Designers

Owner of a Catalac 8M and Catamaransite webmaster.

10 replies on “Catamaran Design Formulas”

Im working though these formuals to help in the conversion of a cat from diesel to electric. Range, Speed, effect of extra weight on the boat….. Im having a bit of trouble with the B_TR. First off what is it? You don’t call it out as to what it is anywhere that i could find. Second its listed as B TR = B WL / T c but then directly after that you have T c = B WL / B TR. these two equasion are circular….

Yes, I noted the same thing. I guess that TR means resistance.

I am new here and very intetested to continue the discussion! I believe that TR had to be looked at as in Btr (small letter = underscore). B = beam, t= draft and r (I believe) = ratio! As in Lbr, here it is Btr = Beam to draft ratio! This goes along with the further elaboration on the subject! Let me know if I am wrong! Regards PETER

I posted the author’s contact info. You have to contact him as he’s not going to answer here. – Rick

Thank you these formulas as I am planning a catamaran hull/ house boat. The planned length will be about thirty six ft. In length. This will help me in this new venture.

You have to ask the author. His link was above. https://www.facebook.com/terho.halme

I understood everything, accept nothing makes sense from Cm=Am/Tc*Bwl. Almost all equations from here on after is basically the answer to the dividend being divided into itself, which gives a constant answer of “1”. What am I missing? I contacted the original author on Facebook, but due to Facebook regulations, he’s bound never to receive it.

Hi Brian, B WL is the maximum hull breadth at the waterline and Tc is the maximum draft.

The equation B TW = B WL/Tc can be rearranged by multiplying both sides of the equation by Tc:

B TW * Tc = Tc * B WL / Tc

On the right hand side the Tc on the top is divided by the Tc on the bottom so the equal 1 and can both be crossed out.

Then divide both sides by B TW:

Cross out that B TW when it is on the top and the bottom and you get the new equation:

Tc = B WL/ B TW

Thank you all for this very useful article

Parfait j aimerais participer à une formation en ligne (perfect I would like to participate in an online training)

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Canoe Catamaran

Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by kmeastman , Dec 11, 2007 .

kmeastman Junior Member

I am a Mechanical Engineering student at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln. For my senior design semester project I would like to design a catamaran that is sail powered and uses two canoes as its two hulls. I have never designed a boat so I was hoping that more experienced people could help me out. The purpose of using canoes is mostly because the cargo/people capacity would be much greater than with most catamarans. I realize that this would make the boat slower than the average catamaran but I am ok with that. I was thinking along the lines of using 17' aluminum canoes, which usually come with two seats (each canoe), but a third would likely be added. It would likely be built to the maximum trailerable width of 8'6". I was thinking of having only one mainsail and probably adding a captain's seat between the two canoes toward the rear. I have done some preliminary research and here are the problems I forsee: 1. Since I am going to buy the canoes instead of building them, I can't get very good estimates of factors like wetted area and lateral plane area. I think I could figure them out if I had a canoe to take measurements on and then model it in a 3D CAD program. The problem is that I don't want to buy one and then find out that I need a larger or smaller one to make this work. 2. The major difference between a canoe hull and a catamaran hull is its width at the water level. Since the canoe is much flatter, it will have a large wetted area compared to its lateral plane area. I'm not sure how big of a problem this could be. I could increase the lateral plane area with the use of a center board but I would definitely have more overall wetted area and drag than an average catamaran. Again, I am not overly concerned about the speed I can get out of it, but it will hardly be worth putting a sail on it if its going to be too slow. 3. Catamarans that I have seen have similar L/B ratios to what I am talking about here. However, because a canoe is much wider than a catamaran hull, the center to center distance between the canoes would be much smaller than the center to center distance on a catamaran given the same L/B ratio. Is this a problem? 4. I was thinking that the boom of the sail would be mounted high enough that it would clear the head of the person in the middle seat (much lower than the other two seats) and the boom would not be long enough to reach the person in the back seat. In order for it not to hit the person in the front seat the rotation of the sail would have to be limited. Since the pivot of the sail and the front seat will likely be at about the longitudinal placement, this is about 180 degrees of rotation. From sailing books I have read, you should never need your sail to be rotated more than this but is there any reason why limiting its travel would be a problem? Any help is appriciated. If you have any advice on these problems or can think of any other possible problems I would love to hear what you think. Thanks Kevin  

masalai masalai

Research on polynesian ocean voyaging and Melanesian ocean voyaging and some of the catamaran threads.  

Pericles Senior Member

I concur. http://pvs.kcc.hawaii.edu/ http://www.pbs.org/wayfinders/polynesian2.html http://www.janeresture.com/voyaging/main.htm http://www.moolelo.com/hokulea.html http://starbulletin.com/2007/03/18/news/story04.html Masalai, Two minds with but a single thought. Pericles  

Seasons greetings to you Pericles (God of ? remind me. I was endeavouring to maintain a "grumpy old *******" attitude and make him look for himself. Good exercise for the young wipper-snapper. eh eh eh  

Village_Idiot Senior Member

A coupla things I would consider: 1) Canoes generally aren't used for catamaran hulls because they can take on waves/water and list/sink/capsize. If you're going to sail this thing in anything with over foot-high waves, you need to make the hulls shed water. Maybe try the FRP solid (sit-on-top) kayaks that have no interior. However, you will lose your room/capacity that you are trying to gain with the open hulls. 2) You can get around the 8.5' beam limitation by making the hulls movable under their scaffolding - once the boat is launched, move the hulls outboard to gain your stability. Depending on how wide you want the scaffold (deck), you can even go narrower than 8.5' to make trailering easier. 3) For truly innovative engineering design, use flat-transom canoes (that you can put an outboard on if you wanted), then design a configuration where you can swing one of the 17-foot canoes around backward so you can join the two canoes at the transoms and make a nice 34-foot canoe (remember, longer displacement hulls are faster and more efficient). This would give you a l/b ratio of around 11:1-12:1. You can add an outrigger for stability. Properly designed, you can turn the sailing cat into a fast outrigger canoe for when the wind isn't blowing. Maybe you could even design the mast, and/or the deck, to do double-duty as an outrigger. Or maybe just have an efficient fast-sailing canoe with a proper outrigger and sail combination...  

Thanks for your suggestions, I have seen the polynesian sailing canoes that you are talking about, which is what convinced me that my idea would work. I have checked out some of the other threads on catamarans and have gotten some valuable info from them. I'll check out the specific websites that you reccomended. As for the canoes taking on water, I do not intend this to go on real rough water. It will probably always be used on inland lakes and probably not on water rougher than you would normally take a single manually powered canoe on. If the water became an issue, do you think you could put some kind of water deflector on the top edge of the canoe that would make splashing waves bounce away from the hull? As for the trailering, I have already thought about making the boat wider by sliding the hulls out after it gets trailered. I would like to avoid this but I haven't done enough calculations yet to make sure it would be stable without any extra width. I really like your idea idea about the 2 flat transom canoes. I had anticipated using the double ended ones but one of the whole purposes of this project is to have a very versatile boat. One of the design requirements is that it needs to be dissassembled to portage between two lakes. This way the canoes could still be used individually too. I like this idea of having an extra long canoe as another option. It could be used maunually powered or if I decided to add an outrigger could be sail powered. Also, I didn't really want it to have an outboard motor on it, but if I had the flat transom style canoe I would have that option in the future.  

rwatson Senior Member

James Wharram designs sailing catamarans that are canoes - with a kyak like covered in seat in each hull  

Petros Senior Member

Sounds like a fun project. How about one really large cargo carrying canoe (better l/w ratio), with a kayak outrigger (or even two kayaks to make a trimaran). The kayaks can be attached to the outrigger booms with quick and simple bungee cord mounts. That way you do not have to unpack the canoe to take one of the kayaks out to scout ahead or find a campsite, etc. You would have more flexibility as to the use of the hulls together or apart too. Under sail the passengers and cargo are all together, where your single rudder is located on the center hull. The sea kayak outriggers could also store cargo was well, or an extra passenger. It would also be easy and light to attach the outriggers after trailering so you can go much wider which is much better. You can carry more sail this way too. There is less drag with a larger distance between the hulls, so not only can you carry more sail, but lower drag too due to interference effect from closely spaced hulls. the rotation molded sea kayaks (called "Tupperware" kayaks) are cheap, get them used from craigslist. Or better yet, build skin-on-frame kayaks, quick, light and inexpensive. I've built seven, they have cost me $30 to $50 each to build (using salvaged lumber), even buying all the materials new would still only cost about $100 or so each. Mine weight only about 20 lbs complete (attaching something this light after trailering would be an easy task). The canoe can be built skin-on-frame as well, a lot less expensive and lighter than aluminum. BTW it is common to use fabric splash covers on river canoes to keep the water out, no reason that could be done on your canoes as well. Good luck.  

Well, the project has been approved and is underway. My group was able to model the canoes and get some measurements like lateral plane area, Longintudinal center of buoyancy, LWL, and wetted area for different weights. I have done some estimates on D/L and SA/D ratios and they seem within reason for the kind of boat I would like to build. Most of the reccomendations for these ratios that I have seen are for monohulls. Would they be any different for a catamaran? Is there any books or websites that anyone can reccomend that give calculations or reccomendations that are specific to catamarans? What I would like some help with is how to determine if the lateral resistance area that I calculated is enough or if I need to add a centerboard. Also, what calculations can I make with the wetted area? Thanks for the help, Kevin  

"Also, what calculations can I make with the wetted area?" You can calculate how wet the wetted area is ? Years ago, an old yacht designer told us kids about how to determine the centre or resistance without any math. He cut out a profile of the underwater hull from a piece of cardboard, balanced the shape on the edge of a ruler, and where it balanced, marked it as the centre of lateral resistance. It seemed to work back then. I always wondered if the profile he cut should have been the profile of the heeled yacht (would have had a curved top edge and a shorter keel), but that would not apply to catamarans. Does anyone else still use this or a similar technique these days?  

FAST FRED Senior Member

There are plastic pontoons made that can be put together to most any length to build your basic boat.. The shape of the weted surface would be better than the canoe , and might even be cheaper. FF  

The wetted area is used to calculate the drag. The less the wetted area the better, but in a canoe or monohull the smallest wetted area is a semi-circular cross section, which means no resistance to heeling moments. On a cat this matters little, so many cat hulls are semi-circular in cross section (for least drag) but if you use the hull as a canoe it will simply roll over. You need a flatter bottom so it has some inherent stablity,  

There are very few cat hull that are semi circular in cross section! They are either bell shaped or sharp edged. The sides are flattened to resist leeway, and avoid the necessity of big daggerboards. Certainly the forward part of the hulls are almost knife shaped, for easy entry to waves and wind. Examples, Hobie Cat, Tornado (which has a semi circle for a small section of the stern), Nacra etc These features to enhance sailing ability will be far bigger considerations than a bit of friction on a small 16ft hull. due to wetted area.  

Guest625101138 Previous Member

Kevin Get hold of a hull surface rendering program called Delftship. You can get a free version of it. Look at the hulls you are thinking of buying and draw approximate models in Delftship. This should take all of 10 minutes if you are a slow learner. If you are having trouble then post a couple of photos and I will spend the 5 minutes to do them for you. Delftship will provide you all the hydrostatic information. It will give you crap hydrodynamic data. However you can export the hull into Michlet format and then use Michlet to get accurate drag information - within 5% for a canoe type hull. With a sailing cat you can design for many cases. The two extremes is where you have both hulls equaly loaded on say a beam reach. The other extreme is where the entire weight is carried on a single hull when you are pushing hard to windward. There are obviously a whole series of load cases in between but looking at resolving the forces under these two extremes will give you a good understanding. If you want help on the detail after you get started, just post specific questions that are giving you difficulty. Rick W.  

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rwatson said: ↑ There are very few cat hull that are semi circular in cross section! They are either bell shaped or sharp edged. The sides are flattened to resist leeway, and avoid the necessity of big daggerboards. Certainly the forward part of the hulls are almost knife shaped, for easy entry to waves and wind. Examples, Hobie Cat, Tornado (which has a semi circle for a small section of the stern), Nacra etc Click to expand...

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How to Make a Catamaran Out of Two Kayaks? Here’s What You Need to Know

If you’re looking for an inexpensive and simple way to make your own catamaran out of two kayaks, then you’ve come to the right place.

In this guide, we’ll provide the necessary steps to create a stable and secure catamaran from two kayaks.

You’ll learn the benefits of making a catamaran out of two kayaks, the supplies you’ll need, a step-by-step guide to tying the kayaks together, constructing the platform, and more.

Plus, we’ll provide tips for ensuring a safe and fun day on the water.

So, let’s get started!

Table of Contents

Short Answer

Making a catamaran out of two kayaks is actually relatively simple and can be done in a few steps.

First, you’ll need to attach the two kayaks together using either rope or straps.

Make sure the kayaks are well secured together and evenly balanced.

Then, tie a cross beam between the two kayaks to make a platform for seating and storage.

Finally, add any additional gear, such as paddles and life jackets, that you may need for your journey.

With these steps, you’ll have your own DIY catamaran made out of two kayaks!

Benefits of Making a Catamaran Out of Two Kayaks

Making a catamaran out of two kayaks is a great way to enjoy the open waters with added stability and capacity compared to a single kayak.

Not only is it relatively easy and inexpensive to do, but it also allows you to explore further and carry more gear than you would with a single kayak.

One of the main benefits of making a catamaran out of two kayaks is that it provides added stability.

A catamaran is inherently more stable than a single kayak because the two hulls provide a wider base, which helps prevent tipping over.

This is especially beneficial for those who are new to kayaking, as it gives them additional confidence on the water.

Another benefit of making a catamaran out of two kayaks is that it gives you more capacity.

By combining two kayaks, you can carry more gear and supplies than you would with a single kayak.

This makes it perfect for overnight trips or long-distance paddles, as you can easily carry enough food, water, and other supplies to last the entire trip.

Finally, making a catamaran out of two kayaks is also relatively easy and inexpensive.

All that is needed are two kayaks, a few pieces of wood, and some basic tools.

With a few simple steps, you can have a great time on the water without breaking the bank.

In conclusion, making a catamaran out of two kayaks can be a great way to explore open waters with added stability and capacity.

So if youre looking for a fun and safe way to enjoy the water, making a catamaran out of two kayaks is definitely worth considering.

Necessary Supplies

When it comes to making a catamaran out of two kayaks, there are certain supplies that are necessary for the job.

The most important items needed are two kayaks, some pieces of wood, and basic tools.

Depending on the type of kayaks, rope or bungee cord may also be necessary.

The two kayaks should be tied together with rope or bungee cord.

This will provide the necessary stability and capacity that a catamaran needs.

The rope or bungee cord should be tied securely, but not too tightly, to ensure that the kayaks dont move apart when in use.

Using the pieces of wood, a platform should be constructed to attach the kayaks together.

This will provide the necessary support for the kayaks to be on the same level.

The platform should be made with durable wood that can withstand the elements and the weight of the kayaks.

Once the platform is in place, the kayaks should be secured together with more rope or bungee cord.

This will ensure that the kayaks stay together and remain secure.

With these supplies, youll be able to construct a catamaran out of two kayaks, providing a great way to explore open waters with added stability and capacity.

It is a relatively simple process to do, and with the right supplies, youll be able to enjoy a fun and safe day on the water.

Step-by-Step Guide for Tying the Kayaks Together

Tying two kayaks together to create a catamaran is a fairly straightforward process that can be completed with minimal supplies and basic tools.

To get started, select two kayaks that are similar in size and shape.

If the kayaks are not the same size, one may need to be secured higher than the other for balance.

Once the kayaks are selected, its time to start tying them together.

Begin by securing a rope or bungee cord around the kayaks, making sure to wrap the cord around both kayaks several times.

Its important to make sure the cord is tied tightly and securely; if the cord is too loose, the kayaks are likely to move while in the water, which could be dangerous.

After the rope or bungee cord is secured, a platform should be constructed out of wood and attached to the kayaks.

This platform should be large enough for the items being stored on the catamaran, such as coolers, fishing gear, and other supplies.

Once the platform is attached, its important to securely tie the kayaks together with additional rope or bungee cord.

This will help ensure that the kayaks stay together and dont move while in the water.

By following these simple steps, anyone can easily create a catamaran out of two kayaks.

With a little bit of planning and the right supplies, this project can be completed in just a few hours.

With the catamaran in place, its time to hit the open waters and enjoy a great day on the water.

Constructing the Platform

Constructing the platform for a catamaran out of two kayaks is the next step in the process.

The platform should be constructed out of wood, such as lumber or plywood.

The size of the platform will vary depending on the size of the kayaks and the desired capacity, but the general rule is that the platform should be at least twice the width of the kayaks.

The platform should also be long enough to span the distance between the two kayaks.

The platform should be constructed with two crossbeams for added stability.

These should be secured to the kayaks with bolts, screws, or rope.

The crossbeams should be evenly spaced along the length of the platform.

Once the platform is constructed, it should be secured to the kayaks with more rope or bungee cord.

It is important to make sure the platform is strong and secure.

Make sure that the crossbeams are securely attached to the kayaks and that the platform is securely attached to the crossbeams.

If the platform is not secure, it can cause an instability that could lead to an accident while out on the water.

Once the platform is secure, it’s time to enjoy your new catamaran!

Securing the Kayaks Together

Once the kayaks are tied together, it is time to secure them for a more stable and reliable ride.

This is done by looping additional rope or bungee cord around the kayaks and tying them together.

This creates a secure connection between the two kayaks and ensures that they will remain connected while out on the water.

Additionally, it is important to make sure that all knots are tightly tied and not loose.

This will help to ensure that the connection between the kayaks remains strong and secure.

Additionally, it is important to inspect the knots periodically throughout the day to ensure that they are still tight and secure.

This is especially important if the kayaks are being used in choppy or turbulent waters.

Tips for Ensuring a Safe and Fun Day on the Water

Making a catamaran out of two kayaks is a great way to explore open waters with added stability and capacity, and it can be done relatively easily and with minimal supplies.

However, its important to take the proper steps to ensure a safe and fun day on the water.

Before you begin, make sure you have all the necessary supplies.

This includes two kayaks, a few pieces of wood, rope or bungee cord, and basic tools.

Make sure you have enough of each material to complete the project.

Once you have all the supplies, its time to tie the kayaks together.

Make sure the rope or bungee cord is tied securely and tightly, as it will be responsible for keeping the kayaks together.

Its also important to make sure the kayaks are tied together in the correct way.

The best way to do this is to tie the sterns together and then tie the bows together.

Next, you will need to build a platform out of the wood.

Make sure the platform is the correct size and securely attached to the kayaks.

This will be the base for the catamaran.

Finally, to ensure the kayaks stay together, you should use additional rope or bungee cord to tie the kayaks together.

Once you have completed all these steps, youre ready to hit the open waters! Just remember to be safe and have fun.

And, if you ever have any doubts, seek out professional help to make sure your catamaran is constructed correctly.

Other Ways to Make a Catamaran Out of Two Kayaks

Making a catamaran out of two kayaks is a great way to explore open waters with added stability and capacity.

It can be done relatively easily and with minimal supplies, allowing you to save money and still have a great time.

In addition to the rope and wood mentioned above, there are a few other methods that can be used to make a catamaran out of two kayaks.

One option is to use a pair of inflatable air mattresses.

These mattresses can be used to create a platform between the two kayaks that will provide additional stability.

The mattresses should be connected with rope or bungee cord and then secured to the kayaks.

This is a great option for those who dont want to build a wooden platform or dont have the necessary tools.

Another option is to use two pieces of foam.

This method is similar to the inflatable mattress option, but instead of using air mattresses, two pieces of foam are used to form the platform.

The foam should be cut to shape and then connected to the kayaks with rope or bungee cord.

This is a great option if you dont have access to an air mattress, but it may not be as durable as a wooden platform.

Finally, another option is to use a piece of plywood.

This method is similar to the wooden platform option, but instead of using individual pieces of wood, a piece of plywood is used to form the platform.

The plywood should be cut to shape and then connected to the kayaks with rope or bungee cord.

This is a great option if you have the necessary tools and access to a sheet of plywood, but it may not be as strong as a wooden platform.

No matter which method you choose, making a catamaran out of two kayaks is a great way to explore open waters with added stability and capacity.

With the right supplies and tools, you can have a fun and safe day on the water.

Final Thoughts

With the right supplies and a bit of knowledge, you can easily construct your own catamaran.

So why not give it a try? You’ll be sure to have a great time out on the water with your new craft.

James Frami

At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others.

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Cape Falcon Kayak

Skin-on-frame canoe building course.

Custom skin-on-frame canoe building system

Course description

The "66 canoe" is a comprehensive skin-on-frame canoe building system that lets you control all of the shaping variables to build a canoe that is customized to your paddling lifestyle. This 12 hour video course and downloadable 30-page PDF plan set puts you in the classroom with me, ensuring that your first skin-on-frame build is easy, fun, and successful.

Watch the evolution of this design from concept to release on our YouTube Channel.

FIND MORE INFO ON OUR WEBSITE    //   CHECK OUT SOME STUDENT-BUILT CANOES

Generally, we refine designs for years before releasing them as student builds. This early release "beta version" was designed to offer the building system early at a lower cost to those who want to start building now.

LICENSING AGREEMENT:

See video for additional details. This online video course is intended for use by one builder only. Multiple persons may not work from a single course, with the exception of children under 18 working with an adult. Purchase allows you to build unlimited canoes for personal use or as gifts for others who ARE NOT BUILDING. Commercial use is allowed with written permission and a fee per boat, contact for details.  Violating the licensing agreement is bad karma!

Course curriculum

Introduction.

Course Introduction

Tips for a successful Canoe build, READ THIS FIRST

Licensing Agreement

How the Course is Organized

Safety Disclaimer

Tips for Avoiding a Tippy Canoe (PLEASE WATCH THIS VIDEO)

CANOE COURSE UPDATES AND CHANGES, READ THESE BEFORE BUILDING!

Process Overview Videos

Visual Overview of the Pack Canoe Building Process

Visual Overview of Building a Solo Single Blade Canoe

Time Lapse of the Entire Canoe Building Process

The Same Time Lapse Slowed Down 50% Gives clearer views of each step, 23 min long

Odds and Ends

Color Options for Skin on Frame Boats, Acid Dye vs. Earth Pigments

Workspace Setup and Tips for an Efficient Build

Canoe Seating Overview. (full size canoes only)

Planning for Keel Strips and Stem Bands

Canoe Rudder Overview

Overview of Polyurethanes, Oils, Glues, and Varnishes

Canoe Plan Set

SAMPLE Plan Set

Downloadable Plan Set: VERSION 2.2

Various Canoe Examples

My Latest Thoughts on Canoe Design

Solo Canoe with Tumblehome 15'1" x 30" 4/29/2021

Solo Canoe with Tumblehome 14' x 30" 6/1/2021

Solo Canoe 14' x 30" built by Gabe Batson (student) 2021

Solo canoe 14'8" x 31 1/2" built by Gabe Batson (student)

Student Built Tandem Canoe 16'3" x 36" 6/20/2021 (built with Yellow Cedar Ribs!)

Student Built Tandem 17' x 36" 2/1/2021

Tools, wood, and other materials

Tools For Skin on Frame Building

Tablesaw Safety Tips

Glue Choices and Supplies for Laminating the Gunwales

Selecting Softwoods

Selecting Hardwoods

Understanding Bending Wood Grain

Estimating Quantity and Price of Bending Wood, and Communicating with Suppliers

Building the Steambox

Bending Oak Suppliers (text only)

Canoe Skin Choices (text only)

Prepping for the build

Layout Process Overview

Cutting the Gunwales, Stringers, and Keel

Rounding the Stringers

Laying Out the Gunwales

Measuring the Rocker Heights

Setting Up For Laminating the Gunwales

Laminating the Gunwale Curve

Cleaning up the Lamination and Cutting the Gunwales

Fastening the Gunwales Together and Cutting to Length

Setting up the Plunge Router

Cutting the Mortises

Measuring Sheer Heights

Calculating Center Depth

Cutting Stem Lengths and Angles

Angled Stem Layout

Alternate Curved Stem Layout

Making the Spreader Forms and Final Gunwale Prep

Building the deck

Installing Spreader and Capture Forms

Kerfing the Gunwale Ends

Tying the Gunwale Tips Together

Checking for Symmetry

Doweling the Gunwale Tips and Trimming the Ends

Making the Rub Rails

Varnishing the Rub Rails

Attaching Stems and Center Block

Checking the Stem Angles and Setting the Rocker

Temporarily Attaching the Stems to the Keel

Bending in the ribs

Making the Rib Length Measuring Stick

Prepping the Rib Stock and Cutting Ribs

Sorting and Bending in Test Ribs

Measuring, Cutting, and Rounding the Ribs

Thinning the Ends of the Ribs

Setting up for Steam Bending

Some Tips for Steam Bending the Ribs (text only)

Leveling the Canoe, Workspace Review, and Steaming Times

Steam Bending the Ribs

Re-Steaming, Replacing, and Fixing Cracked Ribs

Pegging the Ribs

Attaching stems and stringers

Setting the Stringers

Winding Lashing Spools and Setting up for Lashing

Lashing on the Stringers

Re-Checking the Rocker

Fixing Shaping Issues

Modifying or Replacing Ribs (if needed)

Adding Progressive End Rocker

Shaping the Stems

Tapering the Keel (if needed) and Permanently Attaching the Stems

Trimming and Fairing in the Stringers

Planning for the Mast Step Location

Tying the Stringers to the Stems

Fixing Wobbly Stringers

Finishing and oiling the frame

Pegging the Keel to the Stem

Reinforcing the Keel

Final Keel Symmetry Check

Shimming and Lashing the Keel to the Ribs

Adding Sheer Blocks

Cleaning up the Frame

Choosing and Marking the Canoe Seat Locations (single blade canoes only)

Canoe Seat Location Recommendations (text only)

Installing Seat Blocking (single blade canoes only)

Alternate Seat Blocking Method (single blade canoes only)

Special Instructions for attaching Extra Long Seat Blocking (use for blocking longer than 15 inches)

Oiling the Frame

Adding Tumblehome (optional)

Attaching the Mast Step

Skinning the canoe

Skinning Supplies

Skinning Process Overview / Draping the Fabric

Pinning the Stem

Cutting and Sewing the Stem for a CENTER STITCH

Cutting and Sewing the Stem for a SIDE STITCH (use for Stem Bands)

Shortening the Fabric

Stretching the Fabric and Pinning the Keel

Wetting and Stapling the Fabric

Clamping and Fastening the Rub Rails

Cutting and Sewing the Tops of the Stems

Final Rocker Check / Tuning

Trimming the Excess Fabric

Shrinking out Wrinkles (usually not neccesary)

Setting Up for Dyeing the Canoe (skip this video if using Earth Pigment)

Coloring the Fabric with Acid Dye (skip this video if using Earth Pigment)

Coloring the Fabric with Earth Pigment

Coating the Canoe with 2 Part Polyurethane

13 Common Coating Mistakes READ THIS FIRST!

Coating Supplies

Two cup 2 part polyurethane mixing method (watch both mixing videos)

Single cup 2 part polyurethane mixing method (seriously, watch both videos, they both have important details)

Batch Size and Working Time

Coating Process Overview and Workspace Setup

Initial Saturation Coat

Second Coat

Smoothing Imperfections

Final Coat and Finishing Touches

Additional Coats (must be done within 24 hrs)

Building Full Size Canoe Seats

Full Size Canoe Seating Overview

Choosing Wood and Mortising the Seat Rails

Cutting the Tenons and Gluing the Seat Together

Sanding and Finishing Canoe Seats

Making a Laminating Jig for Curved Canoe Seats

Laminating the Seat Rails

Modifying Curved Seats for Tall Backrests

Building a Tall Backrest

Stapling on the Seat Webbing

Installing Full Size Canoe Seats

Canoe Seating Overview

Setting up for Installing Canoe Seats Using a Drilling Jig (more precise)

Installing Canoe Seats Using a Jig (more precise)

Setting up for Installing Canoe Seats, Drilling Freehand (easier and faster)

Installing Canoe Seats, Drilling Freehand (easier and faster, disregard Hex Head bolts, we use truss head now)

Adding Spacer Blocks

Finishing Full-Size Canoes

Alternate Catamaran Method

Making Stem Bands and Rub Strips

Installing Stem Bands and Rub Strips

Pack Canoe Seating and Finishing Details

Removable Backrest Attachment Loop Introduction

Making the Attachment Point (you can omit the plastic plate shown here if not planning to catamaran)

Tying the Shock Cord

Combination Portage Yoke / Backrest

Pack Canoe Seating Options

Flotation Strategies

Sail building

Sail Introduction

Sail Supplies

Determining Mast Length

Cutting the Mast and Inserting the Tiller Extension

Attaching the Canoe Mast Step

Marking and Riveting the Mast Attachment

Sail Size and Shape Discussion

Planning the Sail

Planning the Sail UPDATE

Cutting and Marking the Sail

Setting up the Sewing Machine and Taping the Sail

Sewing the Sail

Making the Battens

Drilling the Battens and Tying on Control Lines

Modifying the Clam Cleats

Attaching the Clam Cleats to the Canoe

Rigging the Canoe

Sailing Your Canoe

Canoe and Kayak Sailing Safety

Canoe Catamaran System

Kayak/Canoe Catamaran Introduction

Comparing Canoe Catamaran Styles (See last video in this chapter for instructions to build the simple catamaran system)

Bungee Loop Style Catamaran Overview

Making the Attachment

Rigging the Bungee

Selecting Lumber for the Catamaran Boards

Making the Catamaran Boards

Finishing the Catamaran Boards

Alternate Canoe Catamaran System (usually used on full size canoes)

Using Your Canoe

Care and Feeding of Your Skin on Frame Boat (universal document for kayaks and canoes)

About this course

This rocks, john passacantando.

So far, it's brilliant. This isn't just a step by step guide, follow the bouncing ball and boat comes out at the end. These plans are taking me through an ...

So far, it's brilliant. This isn't just a step by step guide, follow the bouncing ball and boat comes out at the end. These plans are taking me through an educational journey and the end product will simply reflect what I've learned along the way. This is a wonderful approach to teaching, I'm loving this.

Jeff Dahlquist

This is an excellent course that Brian has created. He explains step by step with both text and videos how to build a canoe. You can work at your own pace go...

This is an excellent course that Brian has created. He explains step by step with both text and videos how to build a canoe. You can work at your own pace go back and view the videos as many time as you want. His system and techniques to build a canoe are well thought out and work. The canoe I built is a lot of fun to paddle. I would highly recommend this course to anyone who wants to build their own canoe.

It doesn't get any better than this

Matthew harding.

I've spent a good deal of time and research preparing for a skin-on-frame canoe build. I've thoroughly looked at every site I could find, examined the build...

I've spent a good deal of time and research preparing for a skin-on-frame canoe build. I've thoroughly looked at every site I could find, examined the building methods, construction approach, and watched countless youtube videos on the subject (much to my wife's chagrin). Being an engineer for an aerospace engineering company, my expectations for attention to detail are quite high. Brian's content is far and away superior to anything on the market. His building methods are proven and sound, adaptable to many canoe sizes and shapes, the videos are outstanding and very professional, and his license agreement is as fair as they come. I purchased his course and am partway through the build and I can say he has easily surpassed my expectations and the build so far has been a pleasure because I know exactly what to do, what to expect, and what mistakes to avoid. If you are considering building a skin-on-frame canoe, you've come to the right place, for this price you are getting an amazing deal and an excellent product.

Great course!

Kevin pauba.

Although I don't plan on building a SOF canoe for another few years, this was too good of a deal to pass up. I don't think this construction method will bec...

Although I don't plan on building a SOF canoe for another few years, this was too good of a deal to pass up. I don't think this construction method will become obsolete anytime soon either. A very professional how-to course. Brian is an excellent presenter with the know-how to make the subject matter understandable and doable by anyone. I wished I had discovered this when my kids were younger as building a set of canoes together would have been a great shared experience.

Great nesting canoes

I built a pair of nesting canoes. The course provided all the info needed for someone who hasn't ever done woodworking. The canoes are well balanced and work...

I built a pair of nesting canoes. The course provided all the info needed for someone who hasn't ever done woodworking. The canoes are well balanced and worked great on a 15 mile river trip. I'm looking forward to taking it back out now that I have a greenland paddle.

Jane Stoykov

every single step was an adventure. Every single thing was new to me but I've done all the steps instructed and safe. A safe way to to get from nothing to fu...

every single step was an adventure. Every single thing was new to me but I've done all the steps instructed and safe. A safe way to to get from nothing to full satisfaction.

Excellent Course

Shawn calhoun.

I definitely feel much more confident after watching this course, a lot of great material and little bits of critical information. Will definitely be referri...

I definitely feel much more confident after watching this course, a lot of great material and little bits of critical information. Will definitely be referring back to it as the build progresses!

Excellent instruction.

Royce kessler.

Good pace, with sufficient information to learn the process without being too detailed.

William Glendinning

Good overview and sequence of steps to take to due build. Enjoy ablitity to review certain sections repeatable times to understand key points and values....

Good overview and sequence of steps to take to due build. Enjoy ablitity to review certain sections repeatable times to understand key points and values. Worth the $$$ spent to insure one's ablitity to build said canoe.

Building two pack canoes

Martin hill.

This has been a thoroughly enjoyable and absorbing project to do. The plans and videos are really detailed and well produced.. At every stage Brian shares hi...

This has been a thoroughly enjoyable and absorbing project to do. The plans and videos are really detailed and well produced.. At every stage Brian shares his wealth of experience, always clear, always helpful. On a couple of occasions I checked things out with Brian and he was very quick to email a response. I made two pack canoes and because of the pandemic restrictions in the UK have only given them a brief outing but they feel great. The course is excellent, the canoes look and feel great.

Because the accompanying video courses call out imperial measurements, and we are constantly making updates to both the plans and videos, we’ve found that metric plans leave a lot of room for potential confusion or error. For builders outside the US, we recommend purchasing a metric to imperial tape measure to make your build easier.

Because this is a building system not a plan for a specific boat, there are no standalone plans.

In addition to the cost of the course and plans, average materials cost for a canoe runs around $450. Materials costs vary based on the size boat you are building, local availability and shipping costs, so that could be as low as $300 for a small pack canoe or $700 for a tandem canoe.

You can login and view the course on any device. Enrolling in a course gives you lifetime access to the course material, including any updates or additions we make to the material in the future. In fact, that’s one of the main reasons we created these video courses instead of writing a book, because our designs and techniques are constantly evolving and we want you to always have access to the best and most up-to-date information.

You can download individual videos to your device, but be aware that file sizes can be quite large.

Add-Ons and Related Courses

Canoe Oars and Outrigger

Pedal Drive System for Skin on Frame Canoes

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The Best Advanced Build System in the World

The schionning advanced build system are one of the simplest ways to build your own boat, or have a custom design built faster and more accurately by a professional. utilising duflex panels with a balsa core, large sheets are joined on their long edge to form full length hull panels, bulkheads etc similar to a giant jigsaw puzzle. once you release the tabs, your full size pieces are ready to be assembled., a pre-cut advanced build system does not only benefit the home builder, but streamlines a professional build as quantities are accurate and wastage is minimised. when having a vessel built overseas, a kit reduces the chances of local materials not being available, or delays during your project, and ensures there are no mistakes., read on below to gain a more solid understand of how the schionning advanced build system go together, where are you building.

Schionning Designs is partnered with a number of leading composite manufacturing companies with varying CNC capabilities, as well as supplying resins, hardeners, cloths and fillers. Our partners are located in different parts of the world, so where you are planning to build your boat will have an impact on which composite company is best to supply your kit.

Listed below are our composite manufacturering partners, ATL Composites located in Australia, VDL Composites located in Germany, and PBT Technologies located in South Africa.

ATL Composites (Australia)

VDL Composites (Germany)

PBT Composites  (South Africa)

Starting the process.

THE KIT PROCESS

MATERIAL CHOICES

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

James Wharram Designs

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The Melanesians have been building outrigger canoes for thousands of years. The 16ft Wharram MELANESIA design is a very simple and economical to build outrigger canoe, based on the original Pacific canoes. The main canoe hull is built from just two sheets of plywood, stitched and glued together with epoxy and glass tape. All other parts are constructed from naturally grown saplings/timber. She is steered with a steering paddle and uses a traditional hand made 'crabclaw' sail.